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The official VAPE MAIL!!!!!!! thread #2

gadget!

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no, it wasn't me. i had no clue. it was someone, yet to be disclosed, and their partner in crime, that you know it is.
said persons were in Cahoots to surprise and humble me, they succeeded on both counts.
and yes, i have been using it. and yes, it is very nice :)
Very nice of them both! Good deal @Rhianne and @gadget!
It wasn't me, I just helped make it happen. :)

Sent from a Galaxy far far away!
 

gsmit1

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i have one of those, my only, and so far all i need, 20700. and its getting used, charging right now.

i need to ask you. you said you have the extra tube for yours ? you know where i could get one ? if it doesn't cost to much, maybe i'l get it, maybe.
Vaperz Cloud had em a while back, but they're out now it seems. I can't find any for sale now. I found some pix from guys who had one, but none in stock for sale anywhere. The 11:11 used the same stacked section. You'd probably have to dig one up second hand. I got mine from @MrMeowgi with the mod. I'll keep a look out.
20191222_213359_cr.jpg
 

gsmit1

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USB type-C is awesome; so much more than just a new connector. I have a laptop that I use one cable with USB type-C to connect when on the desk. With the right cable I hook up AC charging power, gigabit ethernet and an HDMI monitor with one connection to a docking station. One freaking cable with a type-c connection. Great docking solution for a compatible laptop with this dock https://plugable.com/products/ud-ultc4k/
Yeah type C refers only to the physical connector. The electronics can get very confusing and there's a lot variation in the every aspect of that including an occasional compatibility issue, but pretty much everything about everything after USB 2 is better,
 

marter

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Yeah type C refers only to the physical connector. The electronics can get very confusing and there's a lot variation in the every aspect of that including an occasional compatibility issue, but pretty much everything about everything after USB 2 is better,
Good point; I went well beyond the connector. The 24 pins it has opens up a whole new ballgame, which is what I was referring to.
 

gsmit1

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Good point; I went well beyond the connector. The 24 pins it has opens up a whole new ballgame, which is what I was referring to.
Right. My response was intended to affirm and maybe clarify yours. I've had a harrowing and exhausting week. I should have been clearer. :)

In other words, I meant it more for others reading this.
 

Jinx'd

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Vaperz Cloud had em a while back, but they're out now it seems. I can't find any for sale now. I found some pix from guys who had one, but none in stock for sale anywhere. The 11:11 used the same stacked section. You'd probably have to dig one up second hand. I got mine from @MrMeowgi with the mod. I'll keep a look out.
View attachment 151999

thanx man. no big deal. maybe i should bore it out to take a 30T instead.
 

gsmit1

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thanx man. no big deal. maybe i should bore it out to take a 30T instead.
You could do that, but I don't think there would be a night and day difference between a 2070C and 30T though. That mod performs awesome as a single too. I've run it as a single. Build something between .11 and .15 and it will roar.

EDIT: Also, I'm sure you got it clean from Gadget, but make sure to keep it that way. The threads, all the contact surfaces. I let mine go for like a month one time and when I cleaned it up I realized what a difference that makes.
 

Jinx'd

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You could do that, but I don't think there would be a night and day difference between a 2070C and 30T though. That mod performs awesome as a single too. I've run it as a single. Build something between .11 and .15 and it will roar.

EDIT: Also, I'm sure you got it clean from Gadget, but make sure to keep it that way. The threads, all the contact surfaces. I let mine go for like a month one time and when I cleaned it up I realized what a difference that makes.


i was thinking that to. for me, a good reason to do it = i have a bunch of 30T's. its got .16 in it now.

yeah, its clean, but, while the switch looked clean, i didn't check it, i will. things can look clean, but not be.
 

gsmit1

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i was thinking that to. for me, a good reason to do it = i have a bunch of 30T's. its got .16 in it now.

yeah, its clean, but, while the switch looked clean, i didn't check it, i will. things can look clean, but not be.
There were 2 switches available for it. The VC Tech V2 and the Comp S. The Comp S is the better of the two. That's the one you have. I can't believe that Gadget would send it out dirty, but can't hurt to take it apart just to get familiar with it. It's not the very easiest to get back together :rolleyes: Ya gotta kinda manipulate the ring and the bottom plate with your thumb and some fingers. You'll get it. I always keep the spring tension off the ring and it's threads.

That really is a great mod. Just by having played with both, nothing scientific, it might even edge out my copper Vindicator in performance by a hair.
 

Jinx'd

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There were 2 switches available for it. The VC Tech V2 and the Comp S. The Comp S is the better of the two. That's the one you have. I can't believe that Gadget would send it out dirty, but can't hurt to take it apart just to get familiar with it. It's not the very easiest to get back together :rolleyes: Ya gotta kinda manipulate the ring and the bottom plate with your thumb and some fingers. You'll get it. I always keep the spring tension off the ring and it's threads.

That really is a great mod. Just by having played with both, nothing scientific, it might even edge out my copper Vindicator in performance by a hair.

i just checked the switch, its good. do you know wherre it makes mass contact ? looks like the spring, the other spring, and around the outside(where the 8 notches are). is the switch silver coated ? i think this is whats called a constant contact switch ?
the switch is easy to assemble. getting it loose, thaats another story as the ring likes to lock itself down. and me polishing it didn't make it any easier = since polishing, its a slippery bitch.
 

marter

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i just checked the switch, its good. do you know wherre it makes mass contact ? looks like the spring, the other spring, and around the outside(where the 8 notches are). is the switch silver coated ? i think this is whats called a constant contact switch ?
the switch is easy to assemble. getting it loose, thaats another story as the ring likes to lock itself down. and me polishing it didn't make it any easier = since polishing, its a slippery bitch.
The pictures below shows two different types of switches. The one on the left is from a Vindicator 21700 and is not a constant contact switch; you can see the center contact that moves up to the battery when the switch is pressed. The one on the right is from a Mechlyfe Arcless and is a constant contact switch. You can't see the contact move inside the switch; the silver plate is always in contact with the battery and the connection is made inside the switch.
mech switches.jpg
 

Jinx'd

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The pictures below shows two different types of switches. The one on the left is from a Vindicator 21700 and is not a constant contact switch; you can see the center contact that moves up to the battery when the switch is pressed. The one on the right is from a Mechlyfe Arcless and is a constant contact switch. You can't see the contact move inside the switch; the silver plate is always in contact with the battery and the connection is made inside the switch.
View attachment 152002

thanx, thats what i thought. though this mod is set up differrently.
 

marter

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i was thinking that to. for me, a good reason to do it = i have a bunch of 30T's. its got .16 in it now.

yeah, its clean, but, while the switch looked clean, i didn't check it, i will. things can look clean, but not be.
So I'm gonna stick my nose in here where it doesn't belong, but I hate to see you try and drill out that mod for what to me seems to be a minimal gain. I don't know what 20700 batteries you have but there shouldn't be enough difference to risk ruining a beautiful mech. Not saying you can't do it, but the risk reward ratio is not a good one IMHO.
 

gsmit1

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The pictures below shows two different types of switches. The one on the left is from a Vindicator 21700 and is not a constant contact switch; you can see the center contact that moves up to the battery when the switch is pressed. The one on the right is from a Mechlyfe Arcless and is a constant contact switch. You can't see the contact move inside the switch; the silver plate is always in contact with the battery and the connection is made inside the switch.
View attachment 152002
Yes, this.
@Jinx'd
In the XXX the current is carried mainly between the cup shaped moving contact and the rounded piece that it fits onto when you press the switch.

So I'm gonna stick my nose in here where it doesn't belong, but I hate to see you try and drill out that mod for what to me seems to be a minimal gain. I don't know what 20700 batteries you have but there shouldn't be enough difference to risk ruining a beautiful mech. Not saying you can't do it, but the risk reward ratio is not a good one IMHO.
Yes, also this.
It could be any number of reasons and not just the battery.
And this :cool:
 
Last edited:

Jinx'd

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So I'm gonna stick my nose in here where it doesn't belong, but I hate to see you try and drill out that mod for what to me seems to be a minimal gain. I don't know what 20700 batteries you have but there shouldn't be enough difference to risk ruining a beautiful mech. Not saying you can't do it, but the risk reward ratio is not a good one IMHO.

you and anyone else can comment, its all good.

i wouldn't "drill". i would "bore" it. i have a metal lathe and tooling to do under .001" if i wanted. there is about .170 meat on the bone at the concave. i would only need to take out .040'ish. the 20700 is quit sloppy in there, so only a little would neeed to come out.
 

c.diehl

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Got my Grimm kit and rba since I refuse to buy coils lol
5e2661b33a66cea9cd9ddf5ccff9c8da.jpg


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nadalama

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Got my Grimm kit and rba since I refuse to buy coils lol
5e2661b33a66cea9cd9ddf5ccff9c8da.jpg


Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Good luck with that RBA. Hope your eyes are sharp. Thin your wicks, thinner than you think, unless you've got an awful lot of room in the pod for juice to circulate and get wicked in.

I fiddled with one of these for days before I could get it going properly in my iJoy Mercury. I wanted to fling it. Air is too tight for me, after all that.

Let me know if you discover a secret, ok? :)

In case you don't get the RBA going like you want it, I suggest the iJoy Mercury 1.0 ohm mesh coils, on sale at VapeNW for $5.99 for a 5-pack. I think there's a whole set of pods/AIOs that use these coils, which are compatible with Aspire's small-size BVC coils. Artery makes some, too, think they have 0.6 ohm mesh.
 

nadalama

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you and anyone else can comment, its all good.

i wouldn't "drill". i would "bore" it. i have a metal lathe and tooling to do under .001" if i wanted. there is about .170 meat on the bone at the concave. i would only need to take out .040'ish. the 20700 is quit sloppy in there, so only a little would neeed to come out.

Great conversation @Jinx'd @marter @gsmit1 @gadget! @~Don~
 

gsmit1

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i looked there, and didn't see them. but thats ok, i don't really need it anyway.
I'm not sure what you mean. They have the stacked section, but not in copper.
Dean gives a good rundown on this switch in this video. It's the same as the XXX. As he says that he figured out later, it's 100 times easier to just use your tweezers and remove the whole peek insulator ring if you want to polish up the contact. Skip to like 4:50
 

Jinx'd

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I'm not sure what you mean. They have the stacked section, but not in copper.
Dean gives a good rundown on this switch in this video. It's the same as the XXX. As he says that he figured out later, it's 100 times easier to just use your tweezers and remove the whole peek insulator ring if you want to polish up the contact. Skip to like 4:50

just watched it, basicly what i thought.
 

nadalama

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Is this perchance a hint on the uselessness of my thread that purports to avoid exactly what we're doing right now? :rolleyes:

No, I was being serious. I could follow your conversation, and learned what a constant contact switch is, in plain English. Made me feel a little less dense than usual.
 

~Don~

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If you have the means to turn the inners of a mod to accommodate a 21700, I see no reason not too.

Now if said Item was a gift, I'd leave it unadulterated, 20700s are decent enough compared to 30Ts... please note I didn't say the same... they aren't in the slightest... anyhoo.

Stack sections are available if you need more oompff...

I am a believer if a single battery mech can't give you the vape you like... its time for series! Come on Bro, you wanna GO! lol Geico commercial Tangent, yeah so what ;)
 

gsmit1

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If you have the means to turn the inners of a mod to accommodate a 21700, I see no reason not too.

Now if said Item was a gift, I'd leave it unadulterated, 20700s are decent enough compared to 30Ts... please note I didn't say the same... they aren't in the slightest... anyhoo.

Stack sections are available if you need more oompff...

I am a believer if a single battery mech can't give you the vape you like... its time for series! Come on Bro, you wanna GO! lol Geico commercial Tangent, yeah so what ;)
No, they're not the same, but the 2070C is a pretty muscular battery is all I meant. The difference between that and a 30T wouldn't be as much as between like a 20S and 2070C. Though for maybe the first 10 hits the 20S might run nose to nose.

i haven't seen you mention series before I don't think.
 

~Don~

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No, they're not the same, but the 2070C is a pretty muscular battery is all I meant. The difference between that and a 30T wouldn't be as much as between like a 20S and 2070C. Though for maybe the first 10 hits the 20S might run nose to nose.

i haven't seen you mention series before I don't think.

I don't mention series much... I do in PM's to those who I have running conversations with in regards to mechs and voltages etc.

Also, apologies, my reference to 20700s wasn't at all geared to you... just me saying the differences in them, for the topic as I knew was that VC mech, drilled/turned...which is a 20700 afaik.

As for the 70C being close, its not far off up front... just runs warmer and tails off faster... still imo the best option for 207s

Thinking of grabbing the Saga+Asgard 30mm from EVCigs for $168... that should be fun... can run a decent higher Ohm build and not nearly push 30Ts at higher amp draw, which would lessen wear over time, but I'm on the fence... explained in a bit.

Slap a .5Ω dual build, instant fire...depending on voltage loss (But for sags(Shits and Giggles) we will use max of 8.4v) only looking at 16.8a 141w compared to .12Ω at 35a and 147w (4.2v) on a single... factor in voltage loss etc yadda yadda... I like series... just never really cared much... for I was always ok with single mechs... even running .08-.1Ω on 5As

Main reasons not getting a series (have 2 already) ... batteries are cheap... pound them for up to 6 months of 35A+ abuse... don't let wraps go to shit... any battery exhibits abnormal behavior like getting warm when I know it shouldn't I just set it aside for one of my flashlights, order some more... plus I own regulated mods that go up to 150w+... and I don't vape much higher than 115w (After voltage sag) nor have the nostalgic bias as I do for tubes in regards to series side by sides.

I might just pick up a cheap series mech like the Arcless... only $68 and the Arcless for the price point makes a lot of high end mechs performance look like shit ;) additionally, wont make baby korean jesus cry if you drop a $49 mech compared to a $200+ one lol


Don's musings of the morning... woah woah, wtf its noon... coffee
 

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
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I got two RDAs today. I won an Asmodus Barrage in a contest here a while back. It's the rainbow colored one.
View attachment 151272
View attachment 151273
View attachment 151274

I also got the Axial RDA yalls were posting about.
View attachment 151275

This thing is so shiny. It's a like a knight in shining armor.
View attachment 151277

I was goint to get the black chuff cap but waited a day too late. When I ordered they'd sold out so I got the ultem colored one.
View attachment 151278
It looks a little goofy like that but I wanted one incase it got too hot with the metal top.

Not sure when I'll get to building on these ones. Excited tho!

what do you think of them both frank? sorry my alerts for this thread stopped popping up I’m pages behind lol
 

c.diehl

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Good luck with that RBA. Hope your eyes are sharp. Thin your wicks, thinner than you think, unless you've got an awful lot of room in the pod for juice to circulate and get wicked in.

I fiddled with one of these for days before I could get it going properly in my iJoy Mercury. I wanted to fling it. Air is too tight for me, after all that.

Let me know if you discover a secret, ok? :)

In case you don't get the RBA going like you want it, I suggest the iJoy Mercury 1.0 ohm mesh coils, on sale at VapeNW for $5.99 for a 5-pack. I think there's a whole set of pods/AIOs that use these coils, which are compatible with Aspire's small-size BVC coils. Artery makes some, too, think they have 0.6 ohm mesh.
Yeah the rba is tiny I have some 28g wire coming in tomorrow using the. 7 mesh coil now till it burns out

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I don't mention series much... I do in PM's to those who I have running conversations with in regards to mechs and voltages etc.

Also, apologies, my reference to 20700s wasn't at all geared to you... just me saying the differences in them, for the topic as I knew was that VC mech, drilled/turned...which is a 20700 afaik.

As for the 70C being close, its not far off up front... just runs warmer and tails off faster... still imo the best option for 207s

Thinking of grabbing the Saga+Asgard 30mm from EVCigs for $168... that should be fun... can run a decent higher Ohm build and not nearly push 30Ts at higher amp draw, which would lessen wear over time, but I'm on the fence... explained in a bit.

Slap a .5Ω dual build, instant fire...depending on voltage loss (But for sags(Shits and Giggles) we will use max of 8.4v) only looking at 16.8a 141w compared to .12Ω at 35a and 147w (4.2v) on a single... factor in voltage loss etc yadda yadda... I like series... just never really cared much... for I was always ok with single mechs... even running .08-.1Ω on 5As

Main reasons not getting a series (have 2 already) ... batteries are cheap... pound them for up to 6 months of 35A+ abuse... don't let wraps go to shit... any battery exhibits abnormal behavior like getting warm when I know it shouldn't I just set it aside for one of my flashlights, order some more... plus I own regulated mods that go up to 150w+... and I don't vape much higher than 115w (After voltage sag) nor have the nostalgic bias as I do for tubes in regards to series side by sides.

I might just pick up a cheap series mech like the Arcless... only $68 and the Arcless for the price point makes a lot of high end mechs performance look like shit ;) additionally, wont make baby korean jesus cry if you drop a $49 mech compared to a $200+ one lol


Don's musings of the morning... woah woah, wtf its noon... coffee
See HERE
 

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