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The BOREAS RTA by Augvape and Roxy

haleysdadda

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Wearing out the Boreas's (what is the plural anyway?) before I die freaks me out more, lol.
Ok people; what exactly do you think you will wear out on ANY tank that isn't replaceable? Yes you're absolutely gonna wear out the socket in the grub screws, & the O-rings ! See from experience if you take care when when assembling/disassembling the actual threads in/on the atty could last Indefinately as you shouldn't be putting any real torque on them to distort Wear them! Remember that over tightening compressed o-ring does nothing but distort & destroy them! the threaded holes in the posts on the posts could be problematic if overtightened! Because the stainless that attys are made of is what I like to call "chewy" it will deform under too much torque! So my tips as a Machinist to help the life of any atty are very simple;
1) Do not over tighten Any threads! I only use the short leg of my allen key to tighten grub screws (long leg in screw twist with short leg)
2) Make sure all threads (especially extra fine ones) are clean before assembly! use a firm tooth brush with YOUR cleaner ( I use alchohol) to ensure threads are clean! Fine threads have extremely tight tolerances & don't like debris at all!
If anyone has questions about maintaining threads on your atty please feel free to PM me! Gotta go get ready for compensated adulting! Have a great day & GFYS!
 

Azriel Mysterious

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Ok, I will let Leon know because I was thinking the same, that I wanted a metal tank as well.
What about metal with a window? That seems the best compromise. ^.^

Also, fuck it, I doubt I'll ever catch up in this thread if I read every post! 4,000 to go is daunting...

If I ask a question already answered, I apologise.
 

suprtrkr

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What about metal with a window? That seems the best compromise. ^.^

Also, fuck it, I doubt I'll ever catch up in this thread if I read every post! 4,000 to go is daunting...

If I ask a question already answered, I apologise.
Putting a window in a metal tank is problematic. You'd need inner and outer rims and a contiguous seal on both sides, and at the glass rim. An alternative might be to deform the glass to fit flush with the outer wall, with a flange inside, then epoxy it in place and hope the glue holds. Far easier to put a metal shroud around a glass tank.
 
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VaporCarp

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f9ebf407292566bca4d8cb1c666a6da5.jpg
 

AmandaD

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I've loved my Boreas since Day 1 but I do sometimes wonder if the fact that it's numbered 0004 contributes to its schizo behavior! Suddenly, it's reading 'atomizer short' on my RX200, but runs fine on another box. And it's decided to dump juice out of nowhere, despite being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned. I guess it's time to change all the O rings and rebuild. I know I have a list of O ring sizes, but has anybody made a diagram pointing to the O ring placement (for those of us who need pics?) :)
 

ej1024

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I've loved my Boreas since Day 1 but I do sometimes wonder if the fact that it's numbered 0004 contributes to its schizo behavior! Suddenly, it's reading 'atomizer short' on my RX200, but runs fine on another box. And it's decided to dump juice out of nowhere, despite being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned. I guess it's time to change all the O rings and rebuild. I know I have a list of O ring sizes, but has anybody made a diagram pointing to the O ring placement (for those of us who need pics?) :)
That's a known RX problem
 

roxynoodle

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I've loved my Boreas since Day 1 but I do sometimes wonder if the fact that it's numbered 0004 contributes to its schizo behavior! Suddenly, it's reading 'atomizer short' on my RX200, but runs fine on another box. And it's decided to dump juice out of nowhere, despite being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned. I guess it's time to change all the O rings and rebuild. I know I have a list of O ring sizes, but has anybody made a diagram pointing to the O ring placement (for those of us who need pics?) :)

That's the rx 510. One of my rx's won't run half my attys now. Need to replace the 510s on them, they suck.
 

roxynoodle

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I've loved my Boreas since Day 1 but I do sometimes wonder if the fact that it's numbered 0004 contributes to its schizo behavior! Suddenly, it's reading 'atomizer short' on my RX200, but runs fine on another box. And it's decided to dump juice out of nowhere, despite being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned. I guess it's time to change all the O rings and rebuild. I know I have a list of O ring sizes, but has anybody made a diagram pointing to the O ring placement (for those of us who need pics?) :)

I can try to make a diagram.
 

JERUS

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That's the rx 510. One of my rx's won't run half my attys now. Need to replace the 510s on them, they suck.
Spacers! if you don't have them, then battery insulators work, or pick up a thin rubber washer from the hardware store. The problem occurs from pushing the pin down too far. There's no need to push it really at all, just touch it, so get the connection then stop, to get it solid in that placement spacers work great. Right now I use 1 of my spacers from Kidney Puncher and 1 insulator that was leftover from rewrapping batteries. It works fine, should just be pushing the pin in a little.
 

roxynoodle

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Spacers! if you don't have them, then battery insulators work, or pick up a thin rubber washer from the hardware store. The problem occurs from pushing the pin down too far. There's no need to push it really at all, just touch it, so get the connection then stop, to get it solid in that placement spacers work great. Right now I use 1 of my spacers from Kidney Puncher and 1 insulator that was leftover from rewrapping batteries. It works fine, should just be pushing the pin in a little.

I've actually been using the KP spacers on all my Joyetech mods. And I've been gentle. It went anyway.
 

AmandaD

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Spacers! if you don't have them, then battery insulators work, or pick up a thin rubber washer from the hardware store. The problem occurs from pushing the pin down too far. There's no need to push it really at all, just touch it, so get the connection then stop, to get it solid in that placement spacers work great. Right now I use 1 of my spacers from Kidney Puncher and 1 insulator that was leftover from rewrapping batteries. It works fine, should just be pushing the pin in a little.
Oh I think I bought some of those years ago from Madvapes - if I can find them! I usually only use either the Crowns or Boreas on this mod, so the pin shouldn't have been pushed in. I'll hunt for the spacers - thanks!
 

JERUS

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Do other atomizers work on the RX200? If so then there might not be any permanent damage you need to take care of.

As for the new one using a different 510, no clue, IIRC the DNA version uses the same 510 as the RX200 but doesn't have the issues... don't ask me why.
 

AmandaD

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Do other atomizers work on the RX200? If so then there might not be any permanent damage you need to take care of.

As for the new one using a different 510, no clue, IIRC the DNA version uses the same 510 as the RX200 but doesn't have the issues... don't ask me why.
Yup, I swapped and put on the Crown, and it works fine!
 

JERUS

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Try putting the Boreas on but tightening it down till you hit resistance (the pin) then stop and give it a whirl. If it works like that then spacers will do the trick! :bliss:
 

suprtrkr

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I've loved my Boreas since Day 1 but I do sometimes wonder if the fact that it's numbered 0004 contributes to its schizo behavior! Suddenly, it's reading 'atomizer short' on my RX200, but runs fine on another box. And it's decided to dump juice out of nowhere, despite being taken apart and thoroughly cleaned. I guess it's time to change all the O rings and rebuild. I know I have a list of O ring sizes, but has anybody made a diagram pointing to the O ring placement (for those of us who need pics?) :)
The no atomizer problem is in the mod, not the tank. The RX is famous for it. And in my experience, if Boreas dumps juice, the problem is wicking. I did a photo set on it, but I'm on my tab and can't link you. If you search for a thread titled "wicking the boreas with rayon," there's pics.
 

AmandaD

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The no atomizer problem is in the mod, not the tank. The RX is famous for it. And in my experience, if Boreas dumps juice, the problem is wicking. I did a photo set on it, but I'm on my tab and can't link you. If you search for a thread titled "wicking the boreas with rayon," there's pics.
Shouldn't be wicking - I've wicked this thing at least several dozen times successfully with rayon. But who knows!
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I've been leaving my Boreas on its side lately and it's not leaking at all. I avoided this for the longest time because the laws of physics and the tank's design made me assume it would leak, and everyone on top of that said it would, but mine does not. Mine never leaks. Ever.
 

JERUS

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I've been leaving my Boreas on its side lately and it's not leaking at all. I avoided this for the longest time because the laws of physics and the tank's design made me assume it would leak, and everyone on top of that said it would, but mine does not. Mine never leaks. Ever.
Same here. I lay it on my "nightstand" (portable air conditioner) when I go to bed. It'd either that or my Griffin, whichever I feel like when I head to bed.
 

raymo2u

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Maybe the new build for the Boreas soon? I just finished it about a half hour ago...
First try at what Im calling a @f4rr3ll Build! This was probably the most difficult thing so far for me to pull off...the biggest difficulty was to keeo it all together in my fingers while I made little braces to hold it for the outer wrap...
Specs: 28 x .6R/34N80/24N80/38N80

20160506_111349.jpg 20160506_111335.jpg 20160506_111825.jpg
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Well I do have massive dual 3.2mm 10 wrap 28 x 2 with 30 ga SS316L fused claptons in my most used Boreas right now, they cover the entire width of the air holes so maybe that's why. I wick to where each wick tail covers one wick hole and one wick hole only, but the tail ends BARELY overlap in between the wicking holes but not over the actual holes. Then I flip the deck, take something thin like a piece of wire, and gently poke the wicks up through the holes. I then assemble the tank and get a good suction action going with the airflow off (after it's been filled) and at that point it's saturated hit city at 150W+ but it never leaks. Also since I used 3-4mm coils in the Boreas, I trim the sides of the wicks about 30-40% to thin them out, this keeps it from getting dry as well.
 

rchmx

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Maybe the new build for the Boreas soon? I just finished it about a half hour ago...
First try at what Im calling a @f4rr3ll Build! This was probably the most difficult thing so far for me to pull off...the biggest difficulty was to keeo it all together in my fingers while I made little braces to hold it for the outer wrap...
Specs: 28 x .6R/34N80/24N80/38N80

View attachment 50028 View attachment 50030 View attachment 50029
Good lord, that is insane! :xD:
 

roxynoodle

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I will do the o ring diagram tonight. I'm on standby to see if Pete needs an emergency vet visit, as he's kind of off. Right now he's scheduled for Monday, but if he stops eating again he'll have to go sooner. And I have to finish mowing the lawn. I have a lot of it.
 

AmandaD

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I will do the o ring diagram tonight. I'm on standby to see if Pete needs an emergency vet visit, as he's kind of off. Right now he's scheduled for Monday, but if he stops eating again he'll have to go sooner. And I have to finish mowing the lawn. I have a lot of it.
No rush Roxy - just thought it might be useful! What's Pete? Hope he's ok (I had the same experience with my pup last Friday - $140 for peace of mind LOL)
 

Mikhail Naumov

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the new one, has a different 510, obviously they recognized the flaw

The 510 on both the RX200 and RDNA200 was SHIT. The threads were fine (though a bit too short), it was the pin that was garbage. If anything too long was threaded onto it, it wouldn't sit flush, you screw it all the way down, boom. Your 510 pin is now forever stunted out and stuck in the bottom of the 510. Meaning any short 510 pin devices you own won't make a connection. Plus the insulator was absolute trash too.

The wiring was also too thin on both versions, and the 'screw' ground they used is a bit eh. Otherwise it was solid. I think the new screen looks a bit stupid though. I'll end up getting one, but my DNA200's will still hold my heart.

If the new RX200S has a better 510 AND thicker wiring, I really hope they re-do the DNA200 version. If they can use wire gauges within Evolv's recommended spec, use a good 510 and fix the ground (plus make sure the screen ribbon isn't pinched under the fire button) I would argue that it could potentially be the BEST retail DNA200.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Oh divorce....I traded the sailboat for the old dog in the divorce (meaning I kept the dog) LOL He didn't even blink about me taking the birds though!
youre a good woman.
I lost my snap on box and tools, watch collection, electronics lab, and musical instruments.
luckily my cousin was able to rescue my fishing gear and cutlery.
 

AmandaD

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youre a good woman.
I lost my snap on box and tools, watch collection, electronics lab, and musical instruments.
luckily my cousin was able to rescue my fishing gear and cutlery.
I did lose a Steinway grand piano - and he didn't even play :-(

Anyway, back to the Boreas!
 

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