M&PWM Modding's Custom Built PWM, OKR-T30, Unregulated & DNA/SX Mods (And More!)

[Mikhail Naumov]

No problem, and I understand why it happened. I told Big Al straight up in an email that's a REALLY questionable way to diagram the board as it makes people think they have to wire the left and right wipers to the board when it's in fact the left and center wiper. You can also get away by wiring in all three, but that's pointless.

 

[MannyScoot]

He tells me he cut the leg off.... He didn't think he needed it.....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Saw that coming. He has to get another 1K Ohm potentiometer then. There is no way to salvage that one he used, at all. $2.75 from Big Al's website.

 

[derrickfosgate]

He tells me he cut the leg off.... He didn't think he needed it.....

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Ugh o

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[MannyScoot]

Well I have my 5150mods box, I bought it already, the box I showed you earlier that's coming, its well built and I knew this was going to be a nightmare with my buddy so I got prepared weeks ago....

He's a good guy who wants to help.....

Your Building my next box. .. Cool.... Thanks for helping !!!!!! Well at least your Building my buddy's mod box..... He's Happy...... And patiently waiting. He got tired of the Chinese crap mods ....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

I understand getting tired of the China plastiboxes.. believe me. I'm drilling the holes under my template for his mod tonight, then wiring it up tomorrow. Was gonna wire it up today, but forgot Memorial Day means no mail service.

We use two terminals instead of three because we use a pot as a rheostat, essentially. The center wiper is ALWAYS used, the 'if' is the left or right wiper. You never use both the left and right wiper in a vape mod. DC-DC converter mods with a pot typically use the right and center wiper, while PWM mods typically use the left and center wiper. Never all three and never without the center wiper.

 

[MannyScoot]

I understand getting tired of the China plastiboxes.. believe me. I'm drilling the holes under my template for his mod tonight, then wiring it up tomorrow. Was gonna wire it up today, but forgot Memorial Day means no mail service.

He is going to be thrilled..... He will finally understand power...... And a good Vape.....

Most People have no idea how constant and flavorful a pwm vape is, .... And the humming is not really bothersome......

I just wanted to be able to see the remaining voltage on my battery, but if the mod stops working when the voltage is too low even better, and the Voltage is turned off to avoid firing..... And able to turn on and off...... That's really the main reason I went Ipwm.......

Thanks man.... Appreciate your work and assistance .......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

He is going to be thrilled..... He will finally understand power...... And a good Vape.....

Most People have no idea how constant and flavorful a pwm vape is, .... And the humming is not really bothersome......

I just wanted to be able to see the remaining voltage on my battery, but if the mod stops working when the voltage is too low even better, and the Voltage is turned off to avoid firing..... And able to turn on and off...... That's really the main reason I went Ipwm.......

Thanks man.... Appreciate your work and assistance .......

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Big Al's boards have no hum/buzz, at all. They switch on a frequency range well outside of human hearing, as does the NLPWM. The only PWM mods you can hear buzz are straight old school 555 timer circuits or simpler boards like Mob PCB Micro PWM's and Gunstar PWM's.

The buzz/slight vibration from PWM mods is pretty much a thing of the past in 2017. This is why I've went exclusively to PWM circuits like Big Al's/NLPWM's and DC-DC converters like OKR/OKL's, Raptors and Deltas. I no longer use DNA's, Yihi's or any 'high end' board that will blow out in 3-4 months because there are 99 things to go wrong on it. Variable voltage/PWM is the only way I'll vape, I'm done with variable wattage forever.

 

[MannyScoot]

Big Al's boards have no hum/buzz, at all. They switch on a frequency range well outside of human hearing, as does the NLPWM. The only PWM mods you can hear buzz are straight old school 555 timer circuits or simpler boards like Mob PCB Micro PWM's and Gunstar PWM's.

The buzz/slight vibration from PWM mods is pretty much a thing of the past in 2017. This is why I've went exclusively to PWM circuits like Big Al's/NLPWM's and DC-DC converters like OKR/OKL's, Raptors and Deltas., I no longer use DNA's, Yihi's or any 'high end' board that will blow out in 3-4 months because there are 99 things to go wrong on it.

He pulled out the pot and wired it to the small tit he had left on the wire..... But now he tells me it's firing from 1v to 6v.....ha ha....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Jesus christ. Once you cut the leg off, the little nub left is actually more-so ALL three wipers due to the internal construction of the pot. Tell him to try wiring both legs to where they were, then the nub to the lower third hole. If that doesn't fix he, he's going to have to buy a new pot.

While Big Al (and me) recommends you use a 1K pot, as long as it's a 5K/10K/15K/20K/50K pot it WILL still work fine. Just don't use a fucking 200 ohm pot or something, that will probably burn out at lower power settings. So if he has ANY 1K+ pot laying around he can use it, it doesn't HAVE to be a 1K. If it's a 5K or a 10K or even a 50K it will still work.

Though I DO recommend it be a 1K, that gives the ideal power range to adjust through. The pot resistance comes into play mostly at lower power settings. Big Al's website sells brand new ones for $2.75 each, I'd tell him to order two and just wait for them to arrive. Any 1K pot will do, though.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I also recommend he heat shrink that board, not to protect it (a short happening is damned near impossible unless you shove something conductive into the box like a dumbass), but so he can dab glue/epoxy/silicone on the side of it and secure it to the side of the box. You do NOT want that board just free floating around in the mod, it NEEDS to be mounted somewhere properly.

Or he could just epoxy the switch/pot wires and glue them to the side of the box. You just want the board secure/stationary, you don't want it moving around for obvious reasons. You want NOTHING but the XT60 plug moving around.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

He should also take a dremel/drill and remove that bottom right magnet nub. That will allow more room for the lipo to sit properly and straight.

 

[inspects]

He should also take a dremel/drill and remove that bottom right magnet nub. That will allow more room for the lipo to sit properly and straight.

INDEED....!

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

It's truly simple to remove that nub. ATI even sells their 1590B's and 1590G's with it ALREADY removed now because it's so common. On N1's and A's it's typically not a big deal, same with P's, but on B's and G's that bottom right nub only serves to block parts / take up space. You can literally take a drill with a small drill bit and just drill right through that bitch. Then take a dremel with a grinding tool or a small file and clean it up. This will allow that battery to sit flush and straight with the side of the box and will overall give the box more internal space.

If the modder is unable to do this / refuses for some reason, this is something you can quite easily do yourself if it comes to it. It's just drilling down through that nub then filing / grinding it out to clean it up after. Takes.. 5-10 minutes tops.

This is obviously a case-by-case basis sort of thing, as sometimes you don't need to remove that nub. I usually have my lipo orientation facing down with the wires on the bottom, so even if I were to remove that nub on most of my mobs, the charging molex / butt of the XT60 wires would block the battery from going lower regardless. But in mods with an unmodified sled or a sled not made special for a Hammond style box, or in a mod like your mod where the lipo orientation is up and has the wires on top, it makes ALL the sense in the world to remove that nub.



I've made a lot of mistakes, but all mostly small. Having glue accidentally leak out when drying and stain the inside of an enclosure, get a hole SLIGHTLY off center and have to go back and clean it up to look center, a scratch here and there on an enclosure.. EVERY modder has this happen to them. But I've honestly never wired a mod up incorrectly and NOT noticed it while testing. I know the guy is new to PWM mods, but that is.. eh.

That's a BIG mistake to not notice, if you wouldn't have posted that there is every chance he would've mailed that out to you. In a form that basically had it as an unregulated 3S lipo mod opposed to a PWM mod, as that is what happens when you wire the pot in wrong. The mod assumes there is NO pot at all and just fires full voltage. There's no pulse switching, no timers, nothing. It is LITERALLY an unregulated mod in that configuration. A PWM mod with the pot at 100% is also basically an unregulated mod, but you have 1-99% to cycle DOWN through. A PWM mod with a botched pot doesn't have that option obviously.

 

[MannyScoot]

It's truly simple to remove that nub. ATI even sells their 1590B's and 1590G's with it ALREADY removed now because it's so common. On N1's and A's it's typically not a big deal, same with P's, but on B's and G's that bottom right nub only serves to block parts / take up space. You can literally take a drill with a small drill bit and just drill right through that bitch. Then take a dremel with a grinding tool or a small file and clean it up. This will allow that battery to sit flush and straight with the side of the box and will overall give the box more internal space.

If the modder is unable to do this / refuses for some reason, this is something you can quite easily do yourself if it comes to it. It's just drilling down through that nub then filing / grinding it out to clean it up after. Takes.. 5-10 minutes tops.

This is obviously a case-by-case basis sort of thing, as sometimes you don't need to remove that nub. I usually have my lipo orientation facing down with the wires on the bottom, so even if I were to remove that nub on most of my mobs, the charging molex / butt of the XT60 wires would block the battery from going lower regardless. But in mods with an unmodified sled or a sled not made special for a Hammond style box, or in a mod like your mod where the lipo orientation is up and has the wires on top, it makes ALL the sense in the world to remove that nub.



I've made a lot of mistakes, but all mostly small. Having glue accidentally leak out when drying and stain the inside of an enclosure, get a hole SLIGHTLY off center and have to go back and clean it up to look center, a scratch here and there on an enclosure.. EVERY modder has this happen to them. But I've honestly never wired a mod up incorrectly and NOT noticed it while testing. I know the guy is new to PWM mods, but that is.. eh.

That's a BIG mistake to not notice, if you wouldn't have posted that there is every chance he would've mailed that out to you. In a form that basically had it as an unregulated 3S lipo mod opposed to a PWM mod, as that is what happens when you wire the pot in wrong. The mod assumes there is NO pot at all and just fires full voltage. There's no pulse switching, no timers, nothing. It is LITERALLY an unregulated mod in that configuration. A PWM mod with the pot at 100% is also basically an unregulated mod, but you have 1-99% to cycle DOWN through. A PWM mod with a botched pot doesn't have that option obviously.

Yep he's ordering a new pot.... My problem is now waiting this week for the pot to arrive from Big Al's...... That takes this week.....

The guy works on a Tug boat has a week off and sails out for 21 days.... He arrived this memorial holiday....

Now when the pot arrives if he doesn't put in in the mail by Saturday I have to wait another 21 days until he gets back......

This means waiting until his next return date..... And it was Almost finished

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[MannyScoot]

Well here is a set of .10 ohm aliens a 2 seconds push of the button at 11volts.....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

God, if you want to get him to mail it to you, mail it to me, then me mail it back to you I could have it fixed in like 4-5 days total. Just pay the postage.

I have like 30 1K Ohm pots just sitting here. Over 200 feet of high gauge, thin pot/switch/meter stranded silver wire.

Well idk about 4-5 days, depends on how long it bounces around in the mail. I would have it fixed and ready within 10 minutes of receiving it.

 

[MannyScoot]

God, if you want to get him to mail it to you, mail it to me, then me mail it back to you I could have it fixed in like 4-5 days total. Just pay the postage.

I have like 30 1K Ohm pots just sitting here. Over 200 feet of high gauge, thin pot/switch/meter stranded silver wire.

Thanks man.... He ordered the pots from big Al's he says he's not giving up...... So if he can't get it fixed in the next couple of days I'm having him send it the way it is....... Then I can forward to you.......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

We can do that, I won't charge you a dime. Just cover the postage to get it to me, I'll even pay the outgoing postage back to you. I just want you to have a nice iPWM, I don't really care who made it.

 

[derrickfosgate]

Mikhail will take care of u manny he has answered all and any ? I have had and he built my first ipwm and wont be my last great guy we get to deal with here

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[derrickfosgate]

As soon as i get used to this b box im goin to a n1 (big boy toy) lmfao

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[MannyScoot]

As soon as i get used to this b box im goin to a n1 (big boy toy) lmfao

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The Bbox is already big... Dang......

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[derrickfosgate]

The Bbox is already big... Dang......

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Yea it is

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[Mikhail Naumov]

The B is just average sized honestly. To me, anyway. I have fucking massive hammer hands that can swallow up the entire front face and sides of an N1.

 

[MannyScoot]

The NLPWM arrived and my buddy says he's sending my fucked up box with a new pot from Big Al's...... I told him keep the Damb thing and he said no it's working perfectly..... Ha ha..... Let's see..........

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[derrickfosgate]

The NLPWM arrived and my buddy says he's sending my fucked up box with a new pot from Big Al's...... I told him keep the Damb thing and he said no it's working perfectly..... Ha ha..... Let's see..........

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Ahhh i like that

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Ultimately this is my issue with the NLPWM, due to its massive size, you aren't left with a lot of room for mounting external buttons should you want to use them. Those small, actuated buttons aren't something I personally like, and I also dislike having the fire button so far down the side of the mod.

So what you have to do is push the board BACK, giving less battery room. It's a double edged sword ultimately.

And Manny if the mod doesn't work just send it my way and I will fix it for free.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

FYI I offer laser engraving options on all my mods too, I can get similar work done. It is $40 extra, though, and it does increase the overall build time. I try to keep my mods as simple and as cheap as possible though, as there are a lot of mods like mine that cost as much as $300 for the same overall mod.

 

[MannyScoot]

Ultimately this is my issue with the NLPWM, due to its massive size, you aren't left with a lot of room for mounting external buttons should you want to use them. Those small, actuated buttons aren't something I personally like, and I also dislike having the fire button so far down the side of the mod.

So what you have to do is push the board BACK, giving less battery room. It's a double edged sword ultimately.

And Manny if the mod doesn't work just send it my way and I will fix it for free.

He put it in the mail today.... Slow mail so might have it on Monday or Tuesday next week....I don't miss the firing my Mitec button with my thumb...... Try firing a big Bbox or n1 from the top.... Man it's comfortable........

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[Mikhail Naumov]

He put it in the mail today.... Slow mail so might have it on Monday or Tuesday next week....I don't miss the firing my Mitec button with my thumb...... Try firing a big Bbox or n1 from the top.... Man it's comfortable........

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I use 16mm Mitecs, smaller switches eat dimples into my finger. I'm left-primary ambidextrous, and I usually fire with my left index finger.

 

[MannyScoot]

I use 16mm Mitecs, smaller switches eat dimples into my finger. I'm left-primary ambidextrous, and I usually fire with my left index finger.

Try the thumb just for the hell of it..... The mod feels good when holding with (4) fingers and firing with the thump..... Specially big boxes.....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

The 41mm Voltrove will overshadow the button. Think this through.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Yeah you won't be able to use anything like the 41mm Voltrove on that mod, as it would hit the button or obscure it. Maybe 30mm stuff will fit, maybe not. Eh.

I just noticed that, you may want to rethink that placement.

 

[MannyScoot]

The 41mm Voltrove will overshadow the button. Think this through.

Well one of my Voltrove found a new home..... And the second has a girlfriend too.....My stainless Voltrove has been (3) months on a Maxo 315....

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[inspects]

@Mikhail Naumov what charger do you recommend?

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

For simple chargers, an EV-Peak 4A 50W 2S-4S LiPo Easy Charger ($30) is a nice, very easy to use charger at an affordable price. Now you can buy variable amperage multi-charger systems for $300+ if you want, but for your needs that EV-Peak is perfect. Plug, wait, unplug, go.

 

[inspects]

For simple chargers, an EV-Peak 4A 50W 2S-4S LiPo Easy Charger ($30) is a nice, very easy to use charger at an affordable price. Now you can buy variable amperage multi-charger systems for $300+ if you want, but for your needs that EV-Peak is perfect. Plug, wait, unplug, go.

Thanks Man...!

 

[MannyScoot]

For simple chargers, an EV-Peak 4A 50W 2S-4S LiPo Easy Charger ($30) is a nice, very easy to use charger at an affordable price. Now you can buy variable amperage multi-charger systems for $300+ if you want, but for your needs that EV-Peak is perfect. Plug, wait, unplug, go.

I've used this B6 for a while now and it has been a good balance charger..... Picked it up on eBay with the authenticity code........ Brand New On eBay for $30.00...... and got the main item......

Thanks Man...!

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[Mikhail Naumov]

I've seen and had iMax B6's literally catch fire while charging, the charger itself, not the battery. Do not recommend.

 

[MannyScoot]

I've seen and had iMax B6's literally catch fire while charging, the charger itself, not the battery. Do not recommend.

I got a V2 authentic and I use it on 3s balance charging on the lowest setting.... And I charge one lipo individual..... The ones I've seen burn up are charging 3 amps quick charge or charging 4 or 5 Lipos at a time .....

Abuse it and they blow up......

I had a Turnigy I paid $140 for it catch on fire..... That's why I put the charger and lipo all in my fire bag.....

That's the way to safely charge a Lipo component system.

I have charged plenty of Lipo packs for my kids RC racing cars and boats..... And had only a problem when the kid couldn't wait and daddy daddy but daddy..... forced me to charge (4) 6s Lipos at a time ...... And I could tell the charger was about to blow captain, she's going to blow.....

And it didn't blow up, but it melted to shit.......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Updated options slightly. LiPo 1590G+ mods now only come in Ant PWM variants as the iPWM board is far too big to fit inside a 1590G+ alongside a LiPo battery.

The ANT PWM is still a wonderful board, it just can't handle the higher powers the iPWM can. But it IS rated for 1,100W/50A.

 

[inspects]

Updated options slightly. LiPo 1590G+ mods now only come in Ant PWM variants as the iPWM board is far too big to fit inside a 1590G+ alongside a LiPo battery.

The ANT PWM is still a wonderful board, it just can't handle the higher powers the iPWM can. But it IS rated for 1,100W/50A.

Sounds good. I'm going to buy the biggest beast and the smallest mod you make next week, then I'll need about four more so I can eliminate the chinese junk I've accumulated through the years. The dna, yihi, smok, ijoy, joyetech, et al garbage is getting shelved. It's all fucking unreliable junk...!!

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I'm also lifting the halt on international orders. So if you're not in the US, feel free to order from me.

Just take into consideration you WILL have to pay the return postage in the event of a warranty call-in AND return postage. I cover the rest. Initial shipping will be higher as well.

Sounds good. I'm going to buy the biggest beast and the smallest mod you make next week, then I'll need about four more so I can eliminate the chinese junk I've accumulated through the years. The dna, yihi, smok, ijoy, joyetech, et al garbage is getting shelved. It's all fucking unreliable junk...!!

You already ordered an N1, so what is the 'biggest beast' you speak of? Also the smallest mod I make is technically two mods. The 1550P is the smallest OVERALL mod I make, the 1590A is the smallest in-hand mod I make.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I now offer any iPWM mod in a Silent PWM variant. This version comes with a 2S-6S 60A Big Al's Silent PWM board which includes a Master On/Off switch for the mod and I wire in an additional SPDT switch that will allow you to switch between output, input and stealth (off) modes on the volt meter. It's a three position switch inside the mod. The pricing is the same, simply request it. It's a simple, straight up PWM with analog only features.

I also now have a company name (M&PWM Modding) and a Facebook Business Page / Group.

 

[inspects]

I'm also lifting the halt on international orders. So if you're not in the US, feel free to order from me.

Just take into consideration you WILL have to pay the return postage in the event of a warranty call-in AND return postage. I cover the rest. Initial shipping will be higher as well.



You already ordered an N1, so what is the 'biggest beast' you speak of? Also the smallest mod I make is technically two mods. The 1550P is the smallest OVERALL mod I make, the 1590A is the smallest in-hand mod I make.

Expect orders next week, as soon as I figure out what I need to last the remainder of my vaping life.

 

[inspects]

I now offer any iPWM mod in a Silent PWM variant. This version comes with a 2S-6S 60A Big Al's Silent PWM board which includes a Master On/Off switch for the mod and I wire in an additional SPDT switch that will allow you to switch between output, input and stealth (off) modes on the volt meter. It's a three position switch inside the mod. The pricing is the same, simply request it. It's a simple, straight up PWM with analog only features.

I also now have a company name (M&PWM Modding) and a Facebook Business Page / Group.

Should link that fb page in this post for folks to find easily.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Expect orders next week, as soon as I figure out what I need to last the remainder of my vaping life.

I recommend the 1550P+ and the 1590A+ mods honestly. One fits in your pants pocket it's so small (1550P+) and with a 2S lipo in there it kicks. The 1590A+ is a little mini titan even in dual 18650 mode. It's Ant PWM, so it has a push button switch to hop between input/output on the VM display (which is internal on the 1550P and 1590A mods, not external) if that interests you. The 1550P+ works best in dual 18650, as I can order an injection molded, STURDY Big Al's sled with the board mounted on top. For 5-300W at its size, you can't go wrong. The Mini-Titan is just REALLY small in your hand.

Should link that fb page in this post for folks to find easily.

It's linked in the main (first) post.

 

[inspects]

I'm working this weekend....I'll get the order in the first of the week. Thanks again, Mikhail....!

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

How many mods do you intend to order? If it's more than one let me know so I can preemptively order stock, I need an excuse to buy more shit as with these last three orders and spontaneously failing volt meters I've gotten kind of thin on some part stock. I try to keep it to where the only thing I HAVE to order is the enclosure & sled/lipo.

 

[inspects]

How many mods do you intend to order? If it's more than one let me know so I can preemptively order stock, I need an excuse to buy more shit as with these last three orders and spontaneously failing volt meters I've gotten kind of thin on some part stock. I try to keep it to where the only thing I HAVE to order is the enclosure & sled/lipo.

I'm ordering two more next week, the small ones (1-gunmetal & 1-black).

I still want a 6S lipo mod, and probably another one similar to the one you already me. But not for couple more weeks. I'm not in a hurry for the mods, have about 75 mods to use which still function, not including a few dozen squonkers.

I'll pay for the ones I'd like soon (make when you have time). I need some time to figure the configurations I'm after. Which won't happen until about Wednesday, have a busy week scheduled ahead.