Should I remove the board or insulate the post?
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Updates on the IPV4????
- Thread starter CTFX
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I'll probably get flamed for this, but why the fuck would you remove a very good balance charger board? If you feel there is not good enough insulation from the bottom of the 510 connection just insert a small, flat piece of plastic with some double sided tape and insulate it a little better? easier than removing the board and solves any issues and still keeps a very good charging board. I've tested the charger more than a few times during charging and it is actually a very good board. Just insulate it and use it, you paid for the mod with a charging board so you might as well use it.
How safe would it be to simply wrap the board in heat shrink?
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The reason I want to remove mine is because I've already had the unequal battery discharge issue that everyone says warns of charge board issues. Go back a few pages and you'll see I woke up to my batteries at 2.2 and 2.6.
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Charge and discharge have nothing to do with each other. 2 completely different boards and functions not related to each other, so I don't understand what you are saying.
Look, don't come after me because you don't understand something. I'm not the one who started the idea. Google it. Other people have had the same issue and it was traced to the charge board.
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Hence the idea of supplying additional insulation just in case. Get it? Good. No need to throw out a good component for a simple fix Gryph. But do what you will, it doesn't affect my mod bro.
st0nedpenguin
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The charge board isn't causing the uneven discharge, the fact it's not correctly insulated is.
So, how would you suggest fixing the problem? Electrical tape over the area by the 510 and the post?
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Post 1853 bro
Will use electrical tape because I have some 20+ rolls. Whereas I have 0 rolls of double sided tape.
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Gryph, I would use a very small square of any kind of plastic... like cut a small piece from an old juice bottle or something, and put a piece of double sided tape on it so it won't move around once inserted so there is no possibility that the bottom of the 510 can contact the charging board. Then just place it between the charge board and the bottom of the 510 connector and you will still be able to use the charge board and have no worries about any shorting.
I'm not discounting that there can be an insulation in the IPV4, I just think it is much easier to fix the insulation that to remove the otherwise very good charging board from the mod.
You can get a roll of double sided tape from Home Depot or Lowes very cheaply. Pick up a roll, you'll always find a use for it. Just a couple of bucks.
If you need some pics I will find some time this weekend to take mine apart and do the mod.
I'm not discounting that there can be an insulation in the IPV4, I just think it is much easier to fix the insulation that to remove the otherwise very good charging board from the mod.
You can get a roll of double sided tape from Home Depot or Lowes very cheaply. Pick up a roll, you'll always find a use for it. Just a couple of bucks.
If you need some pics I will find some time this weekend to take mine apart and do the mod.
I'd love some pics, I feel a tad stupid, but I'm still confused as to where the potential contact, and short, is being made. Is it that the 510 pin can be pushed into the thick white wire? I assume that means that un seen in the pic, the wire isn't insulated at the end near the 510. If so, facepalm to P4Y.
I agree TBC, P4Y could have done a much better job insulating the 510 from the charging board. But unlike the P4Y IPV3, the IPV4 uses a very nice balance charging board and it is worth salvaging with a simple mod. In fact the mod is easier than removing the board. So even if you don't want to use the charging module of the mod this is an easier fix than removing the board. I'll be sure to find the time this weekend to post some pics.
I very carefully applied electrical tape to the post, the 510 wires, the back of the charge board that faces the post, and the top of the charge board that is directly under the 510 pin.
That will probably be just fine Gryph, and as long as the bottom of the 510 cannot make electrical connection with the charge board it will work well and take care of any potential issues. Keep us updated if you see any future issues with this fix. Considering it is a 5 minute fix, I think that is a very good solution to an oversight on P4Y's part. Good work man.
st0nedpenguin
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The issue is the closeness of the charge board to the screw post for the top hex bolt that holds the thing together.
I wrapped anything that could be a potential issue. So that meant wrapping the post, the 510 wires that run past the charge board, and putting pieces of electrical tape on the back of the charge board where it touches the post and the top of the board below the 510.
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CTFX
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Let us know the results of this DIY.
Immediate results: peace of mind
Long-term results: I get to keep my hand/face/house
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CTFX
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Yes the long term results are what matters the most.
Hands and face...Priceless. House, with the right insurance worth more burned down
I was thinking about the problem with the charge board and the fixes I are being posted sound good. I would like to add one more possible fix and that would be use hot glue to the areas mentioned to insulate the board. Watched a couple of videos today where a Austrian man fixed his by repositioning the piece of plastic they already had in there. I will be using hot glue on mine as an added precaution.
st0nedpenguin
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Too much hot glue is likely to cause heat issues though, if you're slapping it all over components that require passive cooling.
You are correct but don't plan on putting it all over the board. Just enough to keep it from making contact with metal surfaces in two spots. Near the 510 connection and By the screw post.
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I hate this, I have a grasp on how all this works, and why it's an issue. As I said, mechs, I can troubleshoot 99% of the time, and I've gained a great understanding of electronics through vaping. It's actually one of the elements of this hobby that I appreciate greatly. I just get terrified for some reason when I see wiring and electrical boards. That stuff just triggers an instant response of "don't fuck with it." I'm eager for your pics @Drone whenever you get the chance. Hopefully I'll gain some confidence. I have a couple of great vape shops close, and have known one employee for quite a while. He is very handy and definitely could do this, so if pics don't give me confidence, I might go by a shop. For now, I use it more than any mod, and I'm having no issues at all with uneven battery drain, so I'm just gonna be careful. I have never vented a battery, and gather a hard short could do it pretty quick, but I know the signs. I don't leave batteries in mods unattended. So, I'm not gonna worry too much, and I'll fix it soon enough. Just sucks. I already meter my batteries obsessively, and don't let them run below 3.8 generally, so I think I will be good for now.
And for everything else... There's MasterCard.Hands and face...Priceless. House, with the right insurance worth more burned down
st0nedpenguin
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Excuse the terribad image, just stole the wife's phone while I remember to actually take a pic, but you can see the fairly well sized piece of plastic insulation wedged between the charge board and screw post if you right click and view image. This was from one of the first batch preorders.
Not having seen the insides yet I found this pic interesting. So placing some kapton tape between the screw post and charger board shold be all thats required. What I can't see in the pic is how close the top of the charger board is to the 510 positive pin. Is it possible to cause a short there with say a long 510 connection on a atty ?
They have a piece of plastic there also but I think the main problem is if the piece of plastic between the screw post and change board is a little out of place that is when a problem can happen.
Thanks man. I just watched the shorter one, I understand now what the deal is. I'm still a bit confused as to wether a long 510 could be problematic. If the plastic insulator below it, and on top of the charging board is there, it would seem to not be an issue. Unless some just didn't even get one, or it's misplaced.
I'm gonna continue swapping batteries frequently so I can meter them for the uneven drain, and I'm thinking I can handle that fix. Might as well fix the screen, too.
It would probably get me nowhere, but it's tempting to contact Asmodus to see what they say. Just give a fake name so I don't rat myself out for voiding the warranty. Probably pointless, but I'd be interested in their response. In the spirit of earlier statements, my face/hands/house are more important than a warranty on a device.
The longer just gives more detail about the board and to be honest I don't think the 510 pin causes a problem as long as the plastic is there. Did a lot of research on this problem and thought I read where some of the Boxes didn't have the plastic between the charge board and the screw post and that was also one of the causes four the delay in shipping. So I think that on the first batch or so they rushed putting the plastic piece in and didn't QC to well. I just recived my IPV4 today and I don't have the mirrored piece over the window, I have a black coating on it and it is clear where the display is. So they are rushing changes to the mods either during production or post production fixes.
Well, we should all list our batch numbers after disassembly, and fixing if necessary. It could provide insight into when they started correctly assembling the devices.
st0nedpenguin
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The Goblin 510 isn't particularly long but it was on the device in the pic and there was still good clearance between the bottom of the 510 and the charge board. The charge board also has a papery/plastic insulator on the top side below the 510 on mine, but I'm not sure whether they all came with that either now.
jfdibutton
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She has gone above and beyond to resolve every issue I have had as well. I won't go into details either. I am afraid of someone taking advantage of a good vendor. I can say that I have had excellent experiences with evape.us an vapordna.com as well.
jfdibutton
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I also have L1293. THAT seems a little fishy!!!!
Ahh, never mind, I thought they were serial numbers. Just read another post that they are batch numbers. That would explain the duplicate. Now I feel like a total dunce.
jfdibutton
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I edited my first reply, someone else posted that they are batch numbers, not serial numbers.Picture?
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Does anyone know for sure? Off to do further research.
jfdibutton
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Does yours have all the anti-fireball of doom preventions? Aka the plastic insulation for the charge board?
Definitely the same though.
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jfdibutton
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It has a whitish plastic under the positive pin on the charge board. And the pics I have seen have a white wire from the charge board to the battery. Mine doesn't.
Yours may have a black wire from charge board to battery. Noticed that in pictures.
It has a whitish plastic under the positive pin on the charge board. And the pics I have seen have a white wire from the charge board to the battery. Mine doesn't.
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jfdibutton
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Yep, wire is black. I haven't had any issues with mine. I am fairly certain that the white plastic "flap" should be fine. I assume that the main problem would be with longer 510 connectors on "well endowed" atty's. I only use my subtank mini's. I was using my Lemo 2's, but not using them currently as they both leak like crazy and I haven't figured out how to correct that issue.
jfdibutton
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@Fictitious Character I know you received yours about the same time I did mine from the same vendor. Is your's a L1293 as well? I am hoping that it is a batch number, but I can't find anything searching Google and P4Y's website is atrocious to say the least. I haven't had any issues with mine and love it.
jfdibutton
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Does yours look like mine, or is it different?
Mine has a white wire from the board to battery sled. I've got clear plastic between the 510 and board but nothing between the board and screw post
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