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Resistance Help/Advice Please

TheLabRat

Member For 2 Years
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I make my own fused Claptons 2*28/34 Nichrome 80 8 wrap around a 2.5mm bit.

Im Using a hexohm 3.0 and like to build around a .3. So here is my question
This is the reading from my Cartel
2qiu3xj.jpg


This is the reading from my LMC Box
sb4sx4.jpg


And this is the reading from my ohm reader
eq1ir4.jpg


Which should or what is recommended i trust?
They have been pulsed/hot spotted cooled down and then read through the listed above devices.

I normally Vape around 4-5.5v any advice/reassurance would be appreciated.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
All of them... I would use the one the mod reads as.. then maybe adjust within that range your meters gave for best performance.

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whiteowl84

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What difference would it make if it was 0.27 or 0.30?
You're still going to turn it up or down till it vapes the way you like right? And you're in the range to be getting all the power out of that mod.

The ohm load only really matters to series mech users.

To answer your question I really don't know. I use either a DMM or an FSK chip to read the ohm load which is the same on both because the FSK has the equivalent of a DMMs ohm reader but both would be totally different than your mods.

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TheLabRat

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What difference would it make if it was 0.27 or 0.30?
You're still going to turn it up or down till it vapes the way you like right? And you're in the range to be getting all the power out of that mod.

The ohm load only really matters to series mech users.

To answer your question I really don't know. I use either a DMM or an FSK chip to read the ohm load which is the same on both because the FSK has the equivalent of a DMMs ohm reader but both would be totally different than your mods.

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My goal is not to exceed the 20amp rating on my 25rs
 

TheLabRat

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All of them... I would use the one the mod reads as.. then maybe adjust within that range your meters gave for best performance.

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I also own a Greenlee multimeter. i check the resistance in the leads and it gives.2
i flip my Petri rda over and touch the thread and pin which reads out to .5 giving me a.3
is this also something i can trust?
 

whiteowl84

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All of them... I would use the one the mod reads as.. then maybe adjust within that range your meters gave for best performance.

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Pretty much.

That mod would hardly be able to go over a 25a pull if it can even do that much. You'd have to have it wide open to pull 20a or better.
 

TheLabRat

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Pretty much.

That mod would hardly be able to go over a 25a pull if it can even do that much.

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Its said to have a 30 amp chip, yet all in all im trying not to destroy or vent my batteries
 

whiteowl84

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Its said to have a 30 amp chip, yet all in all im trying not to destroy or vent my batteries
The batteries are in series dude. It's not pulling 30a from the batteries that's just the output limit on the chip.
To get it's max wattage of 180w it's pulling 21a at 8.4v before you figure the inefficiency of the chip.
You'd have to have it wide open on dead batteries to get in the danger zone.

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TheLabRat

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The batteries are in series dude. It's not pulling 30a from the batteries that's just the output limit on the chip.
To get it's max wattage of 180w it's pulling 21a at 8.4v before you figure the inefficiency of the chip.
You'd have to have it wide open on dead batteries to get in the danger zone.

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That being Said the hexohm 3.0 does 3-6v doesnt go any higher than 6v
 

TheLabRat

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The batteries are in series dude. It's not pulling 30a from the batteries that's just the output limit on the chip.
To get it's max wattage of 180w it's pulling 21a at 8.4v before you figure the inefficiency of the chip.
You'd have to have it wide open on dead batteries to get in the danger zone.

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and thank you for having the patience to help me understand.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I also own a Greenlee multimeter. i check the resistance in the leads and it gives.2
i flip my Petri rda over and touch the thread and pin which reads out to .5 giving me a.3
is this also something i can trust?
I wouldn't trust a single digit metet... that looks like a lot of internal resistance.. could also be sign of loose connections.

Look at the battery and mod tab of steam-engine.org. will give you an idea of safe building range as far as ohm and wattages based on you batteries and/or mod.

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Vaurapung

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I'm going with the other guys here. Box mods are designed for a given ohm rating. If your not below the bottom on a mod and it's not giving you weak battery messages it should be fine. I run .15-.2 on a rx200 with repurpose drill batteries, the batteries dont even warm up.
 

TheLabRat

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I'm going with the other guys here. Box mods are designed for a given ohm rating. If your not below the bottom on a mod and it's not giving you weak battery messages it should be fine. I run .15-.2 on a rx200 with repurpose drill batteries, the batteries dont even warm up.
These Builds i posted are for my hexohm 3.0's Regulated i go down to .16. im trying to prevent battery damage or harm to myself with my hexohms
 

whiteowl84

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The hexohm wont put out more than 3-6v on the potentiometer
It doesn't matter. It's regulated. The batteries are hooked up to a piece of Silicon which changes the amperage and voltage. The batteries are in series then wired to the chip. The chip gets 8.4v on a fully charged set of batteries so with a max output of 180w it can only pass 21.5a of current through the chip to be stepped up or down into the voltage/amperage figure that hits your atty. Assuming you don't deliberately run your batteries till they're flat or till the chip won't let you fire anymore, you'll probably only get down to around 3.7v per cell or 7.4v for the pack which means if you're still firing 180w, the cells are still only getting hit with 25a.
And the CDR really doesn't apply to us because no one is relying on the maximum amount of heat the battery can dissipate continuously. I'm not going to advocate this but I pull exactly double the CDR of a HG G2 every day and I've never even gotten one hot.

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Vaurapung

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So a hex ohm is a mech mod then from a quick search. And 30amp chip is a fuse not a plc board. (took a double take, I guess it is regulated, just looked funny, not in a bad way) still Then your ohm testor is the one I would trust and thats because the vapes ohm reading could be skewd by the extra circuitry and wires used to connect the 510 to the the board and the boards resistance.
 
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whiteowl84

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So a hex ohm is a mech mod then from a quick search. And 30amp chip is a fuse not a plc board. Then your ohm testor is the one I would trust and thats because the vapes ohm reading could be skewd by the extra circuitry and wires used to connect the 510 to the the board and the boards resistance.
Mech mods do not have regulation, pentometers, chips boards, protection circuits, low voltage cut off, etc...
Hexohm boxes are just 3d printed regulated mods with a pentometer.

Edit: they are aluminum, brass and plastic, sorry.

Unless there is a direct connection from the atty and the battery separated by a MECHANICAL SWITCH it is not a mech mod.

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TheLabRat

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So a hex ohm is a mech mod then from a quick search. And 30amp chip is a fuse not a plc board. (took a double take, I guess it is regulated, just looked funny, not in a bad way) still Then your ohm testor is the one I would trust and thats because the vapes ohm reading could be skewd by the extra circuitry and wires used to connect the 510 to the the board and the boards resistance.
Thanks thats helpful im getting exactly .3 on my ohm reader.
 

TheLabRat

Member For 2 Years
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It doesn't matter. It's regulated. The batteries are hooked up to a piece of Silicon which changes the amperage and voltage. The batteries are in series then wired to the chip. The chip gets 8.4v on a fully charged set of batteries so with a max output of 180w it can only pass 21.5a of current through the chip to be stepped up or down into the voltage/amperage figure that hits your atty. Assuming you don't deliberately run your batteries till they're flat or till the chip won't let you fire anymore, you'll probably only get down to around 3.7v per cell or 7.4v for the pack which means if you're still firing 180w, the cells are still only getting hit with 25a.
And the CDR really doesn't apply to us because no one is relying on the maximum amount of heat the battery can dissipate continuously. I'm not going to advocate this but I pull exactly double the CDR of a HG G2 every day and I've never even gotten one hot.

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No the lowest i lets my batteries drain is 3.6 then they get charged.
I do appreciate all your input.
 

scarecrowjenkins

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Well at the end of the day your mods aren't gonna care what your ohm reader says, it's gonna apply the voltage based on what it reads the coil at. Unless you're vaping those on a mechanical mod, the difference won't matter at all. Even on a mech mod the difference between a .27 and a .30 would be almost impossible to notice. If it was a whole . 10 off then that may change things a little, but a .03 difference matters not at all in the real world

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whiteowl84

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Well at the end of the day your mods aren't gonna care what your ohm reader says, it's gonna apply the voltage based on what it reads the coil at. Unless you're vaping those on a mechanical mod, the difference won't matter at all. Even on a mech mod the difference between a .27 and a .30 would be almost impossible to notice. If it was a whole . 10 off then that may change things a little, but a .03 difference matters not at all in the real world

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Lol. It does if you vape at 0.06 like me.

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KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
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Out of that lot the cartel unusual to have differences like that though you sure the legs are in tight? Is the resistence bumping about on the mod

The difference between the two mods is fine one is rounding up the other down but the 0.3 is crap how sensitive is the ohm reader?
 

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