I love my Orchid V2 when it works right, but I keep getting a nasty burnt taste! It drives me crazy. I've tried with multiple builds at multiple resistances , ranging from 0.3 to 1.2, all do the same thing for me , taste burnt. I have tried wicking with a little bit down the juice channels, and I've tried without running any wick down the channels, either way , constant burnt taste. Using Japanese organic cotton. Also have tried with the chimney screwed all the way down and various levels of it unscrewed to allow for better juice flow. Still getting burnt taste. Makes me sad. Please help! Thanks all.
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ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD
- Thread starter TheWestPole
- Start date
Welcome to the thread. I assume you are not wicking too tight through the coils because you sound experienced. If you get burnt hits with wick ends sitting on top of the channels and an easy fit through the coils, you may have juice channels that are not to spec. I've seen a couple. They should be 2mm wide and at least 1mm deep.
Could you take few pics of your build exactly as it looks when you remove the chimney?
An issue I have had a couple of times is the coils being to close to the chimney. Everything checked out fine on a meter but when fire it had a really harsh almost chemical taste to it.
MirkoGradski
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Rip has yet another new technique out for wicking. I think it will work well in an orchid.
Currently in the process of putting a new build in. I think I'm gonna try it out. Will post pics.
DoctorIdiot
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that looks awful similar to the "trevor" wick for the goblin.
I do wonder how well it would work in an orchid though, at least one without the little airhole risers. Don't you think the juice might wick up onto the deck and thence down through the airholes? I recognize that there is supposed to be a decent vacuum within the chamber preventing that outcome, but since I think most of us have experienced at least SOME juice leaking from the airholes, that's a decent indication that the vacuum is generally imperfect to some extent.
Anyway, it certainly seems like it would be an interesting experiment in the orchid. Let us know how it wicks, and also if you notice any leaking.
I agree with @DoctorIdiot here. The fluffy wick method (Trevor) works very well on Orchid if you're doing a big coil big wick build for hit capacity. It holds a lot of juice. Rip's pancake wick is about creating a big juice well in a Kayfun type atty, which doesn't really apply to Orchid because the air holes are on the same plane as the juice channels.
Here's the Trevor Jones link. Wicking begins around 30 minutes in. Thanks for the reference, Doc.
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DoctorIdiot
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Hey thanks for the link, westy. I was at the office and couldn't grab it myself.
I wonder if the "pancake" wick would even work with the slightly-raised-airhole version of the Orchid deck. I never actually got one of those, otherwise I'd at least try it. But for my normal orchids, I think I shan't bother. My standard wicks work great for my Vaping style, and I build the occasional "fat coil fat wick" or "fluffy" or "trevor" or whatever when I want to try vaping an entire tank in one pull
That being said, I DO have a goblin v1.2 coming in tomorrow (shut up, I had to give the competition a fair shake, and I got a good price in a group buy) and I'll probably start in with a fluffy straight away. My new smoktech m80 just got here today so I'm doing some 80 Watt tests on my orchids to set myself up mentally to do some side by sides this weekend. So far so good, even with my normal wicks that I'm usually vaping at around 40 watts. This one's about 50/50 pg though, I haven't tried one of my max VGs yet.
I love new toys.
I think the added air flow allows you to run a little more power and that sucks more juice than an orchid with a standard chimney.
I got dryish hits after a few pulls so I dremeld out the juice channels... a lot. Looks about as deep as west pole's a page or two back. I think it was the 997 bit.
That did it. The wick can keep up with the added wattage. I used to run ~0.4 ohms (25g, 2.5mm coil) 29w to 31w and with the v2 big bore chimney I am running 33w to 35w. That will run through juice faster so imo the juice channels need to be opened up more than stock.
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I think I experience the same thing on mine. Unscrewing the chimney a couple turns helped but it tastes burnt if I draw for too long or chain vape. I was assuming it was the beginning of a dry hit. Planning to deepen the juice channels next to see if that cures it.
My interim solution is to give it a small break in between hits. Never more than 3 back to back.
Hey thanks for the link, westy. I was at the office and couldn't grab it myself.
I wonder if the "pancake" wick would even work with the slightly-raised-airhole version of the Orchid deck. I never actually got one of those, otherwise I'd at least try it. But for my normal orchids, I think I shan't bother. My standard wicks work great for my Vaping style, and I build the occasional "fat coil fat wick" or "fluffy" or "trevor" or whatever when I want to try vaping an entire tank in one pull
That being said, I DO have a goblin v1.2 coming in tomorrow (shut up, I had to give the competition a fair shake, and I got a good price in a group buy) and I'll probably start in with a fluffy straight away. My new smoktech m80 just got here today so I'm doing some 80 Watt tests on my orchids to set myself up mentally to do some side by sides this weekend. So far so good, even with my normal wicks that I'm usually vaping at around 40 watts. This one's about 50/50 pg though, I haven't tried one of my max VGs yet.
I love new toys.
I've heard several Orchid vapers rave about their Goblins. If you've mastered your Orchid builds you're gonna know just what to do with it. The people who have problems with their Goblins I suspect just don't have experience with the style of deck, buids, etc. I'd be curious about a legit side by side comparison though, if you care to share. Cheers!
That's the thinking. More air > more juice > more power. Will we ever graduate from auto shop, fellas?
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@TheWestPole, i love your work on the Orchid. Got a day off today, maybe i'll try and improve the wicking as well.
alex31804
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Damn! Gonna have to start a whole new weight class for that boxer!
Just to let you know, yes, these Vapetasia knockoffs are friction-fit and they're great, but they don't fit a lot of atties. On some it's a tight fit, on others it's unbearably loose. Tight fit on KF top caps with fins (but will go on), kinda loose on KF bell caps, and really loose on KF top-fill caps and Orchid V4 top caps (unusable, really). Vapetasia guy came on FT forums and said something about being approached by the manufacturer of these clones, but he turned them down because the tolerances were just too off. Guess they decided to turn around and sell them to FT.I'm surprised you found those. No mention of "friction fit" in the description.
View attachment 15790 View attachment 15791
http://www.fasttech.com/products/3016/10009866/1866003
They just came out with these that are similar, but not as fat and no delrin insert: https://www.fasttech.com/product/2169604. If you like the look, I've been using these, but without the bottoms: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007541/1698101-stainless-steel-acrylic-510-drip-tip-2-pack
Just to let you know, yes, these Vapetasia knockoffs are friction-fit and they're great, but they don't fit a lot of atties. On some it's a tight fit, on others it's unbearably loose. Tight fit on KF top caps with fins (but will go on), kinda loose on KF bell caps, and really loose on KF top-fill caps and Orchid V4 top caps (unusable, really). Vapetasia guy came on FT forums and said something about being approached by the manufacturer of these clones, but he turned them down because the tolerances were just too off. Guess they decided to turn around and sell them to FT.
They just came out with these that are similar, but not as fat and no delrin insert: https://www.fasttech.com/product/2169604. If you like the look, I've been using these, but without the bottoms: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007541/1698101-stainless-steel-acrylic-510-drip-tip-2-pack
Welcome @cindycated. Thanks for the comments. Yeah, the fits are all over the place, and few 510 DTs are universal. I expect the worst with friction fits and anticipate pulling out my box of miscellaneous tape.
Oh well, what the hell.
man i dont know why i didnt think of this way to wick it before. ive been using the old school tuck the cotton and just block off the juice channels that way. but just trimming the wick down to form a block makes so much more sense.
not bad for my first build using this wick, loving it so far. and im using 5/64th no leaking
not bad for my first build using this wick, loving it so far. and im using 5/64th no leaking
Nice thing about them though, they're clearcoated, so they don't discolor no matter how much spit you get on them.Welcome @cindycated. Thanks for the comments. Yeah, the fits are all over the place, and few 510 DTs are universal. I expect the worst with friction fits and anticipate pulling out my box of miscellaneous tape.
Plus your lips aren't touching mystery metals. I like them a lot, just not with the loose-fitting atties. And they don't get as hot.
Are those just straight blunt cuts right at the edge of the deck?
I cut my wick straight off even with the outside edge of the negative posts and tuck it all in with nothing on the channels. I feel like it gives a little extra wick so you dont go dry on a super long pull.
pretty much, my scissors are big (until i get new ones, never had a reason to) so i had to trim it up after the first cut as close to the deck as possible. then wet it and it kind of balloons up for you to form it into a wall/bubble with a micro screw driver.
I love these: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002881/1215700-precision-stainless-steel-thrum-scissors
My "Ninja Scissors."
The one I'm actually using is the cheaper one - I don't think it's stainless - it's got rust stains all over.
My "Ninja Scissors."
The one I'm actually using is the cheaper one - I don't think it's stainless - it's got rust stains all over.
i have been trying to figure out where to get these for the longest time, of course i never checked fast tech lol. thank you, in the cart it goesI love these: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002881/1215700-precision-stainless-steel-thrum-scissors
My "Ninja Scissors."
The one I'm actually using is the cheaper one - I don't think it's stainless - it's got rust stains all over.
Citizen
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Hmmmm....Yep! Shining example. I was ripping my hair out with the Orchid at first. Took a couple of weeks and everything was great. Picked up the Goblin and there's been little to no learning curve. I mean, you look at the thing and just think... "Orchid build. Smaller deck, bigger air. I can make this work". However, to start with learning that kind of build with the smaller deck... I could see how that would be daunting to say the least.
CosmicVapor
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Does anyone have a spare metal ring for the tank? Mbv juice just cracked my acrylic portion.
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Sorry, I have only one. Though I do have a few spare plastic ones if you're interested.
If Malaysian post is the same as Singapore post, yes, for ordering stuff with batteries. It was fine and functional, though obviously not as fast as USPS.
CosmicVapor
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So, I'm sad to report that the Orchid has been relegated to living in the vape lair and never leaving the house. When I leave for the day I put my vape gear in a slim book bag. I keep the bag upright-ish and all of the gear is situated to stay upright-ish in it. The orchid is apparently not cool with that. 2 for 2 outings got me a very wet Sigelei mini30. :-/ Looks like it's leaking out the airholes.
If I put it in the bag upside down would it have a better chance of not leaking? Seems like unless it's overfilled then the juice won't have a chance to get into the channels.
If I put it in the bag upside down would it have a better chance of not leaking? Seems like unless it's overfilled then the juice won't have a chance to get into the channels.
The key is vacuum in the tank, which means being aware of the juice channel openings where the chimney meets the base. If even one is left uncovered by the juice in the tank the tank can lose its vacuum. Once the vacuum is lost the juice can seep out any available opening, air holes at the bottom or drip tip at the top.
Think of three basic positions:
Upright. Vacuum is maintained and the juice doesn't seep freely into the chamber. I carry my Orchids around in my shirt pocket to keep them in this position and have no problems.
Upside down. This is the safest for storage. The tank loses its vacuum but the juice has nowhere to go. Make sure you vape it when you turn it righside up again to build the vacuum. Otherwise it can leak.
Sideways. Worst position. Vacuum is lost as a juice channel opening is uncovered, at which point juice can seep to an open air hole in the deck and out the side. You can lose almost an entire tank of juice this way.
Upside down. This is the safest for storage. The tank loses its vacuum but the juice has nowhere to go. Make sure you vape it when you turn it righside up again to build the vacuum. Otherwise it can leak.
Sideways. Worst position. Vacuum is lost as a juice channel opening is uncovered, at which point juice can seep to an open air hole in the deck and out the side. You can lose almost an entire tank of juice this way.
This is true of all attys of this type, with the degree of leaking risk depending on your juice thickness and wicking style. I have had an Erlkonigin empty a whole tank of juice into my computer bag in less than an hour.
Hope this helps.
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Would one of these help, to cover the airholes when not in use? https://www.fasttech.com/products/3...tech-anti-slip-ring-for-e-cigarette-atomizers
I haven't had any leaks, especially since I started wicking it like M5han (thanks! Works without thinning, even with rayon), but now that I think about it, I do tend to keep it upright - habit from using gennies I guess.
I haven't had any leaks, especially since I started wicking it like M5han (thanks! Works without thinning, even with rayon), but now that I think about it, I do tend to keep it upright - habit from using gennies I guess.
Would one of these help, to cover the airholes when not in use? https://www.fasttech.com/products/3...tech-anti-slip-ring-for-e-cigarette-atomizers
I haven't had any leaks, especially since I started wicking it like M5han (thanks! Works without thinning, even with rayon), but now that I think about it, I do tend to keep it upright - habit from using gennies I guess.
Sure, put on a rubber. Just get ready to SUCK HARD when you uncover the holes.
Atty storage:
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Top 'er off.
Forgot to mention that one surprise benefit of opening the juice channels way up is that you don't need to leave air space in the tank when you refill. Just top 'er off and it wicks great with no priming.
Forgot to mention that one surprise benefit of opening the juice channels way up is that you don't need to leave air space in the tank when you refill. Just top 'er off and it wicks great with no priming.
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yea i found out after i posted theres no need to trim, just that first cut will do it and its ready to goWould one of these help, to cover the airholes when not in use? https://www.fasttech.com/products/3...tech-anti-slip-ring-for-e-cigarette-atomizers
I haven't had any leaks, especially since I started wicking it like M5han (thanks! Works without thinning, even with rayon), but now that I think about it, I do tend to keep it upright - habit from using gennies I guess.
I would swap out that chimney for the kayfun V4 evaporation chamber.
i have one already, its actually the setup i use daily. kayfun v4 tank with orchid base, but i dont have a orchid v4 chimney just a v3
you just want a full sized orchid? that's cool.
actually the reason for the order was everything except the chimney lol but tacking the chimney on will allow me to have two orchids in rotation. plus i like bottom filling, just less trouble with orchids. using the acrylic bell cap with kayfun v4 chimney makes for difficult/impossible filling without syringes so i went with a regular one
I have some long tip'd syringe bottle caps to use, I haven't gotten my kayfun chimney's in yet. I'm going to use them on both of my bell capped orchids.
Hehe. I just dropped a couple of those same bases off of an order.
Lately it seems "in stock" doesn't mean what it used to mean at FT.
the mill at work is setup to mill out the juice wells perfectly on my orchid. but I'm too scared to make that jump just yet. I might buy another orchid V6 glass and mod that one. I only went as far as drilling out the air holes.
well hope they at least send out my order in two pieces, but that may be too optimistic lol says on their site thats how they handle restocking but who knowsHehe. I just dropped a couple of those same bases off of an order.
Lately it seems "in stock" doesn't mean what it used to mean at FT.
I just do a line item cancellation of the things holding up the order. Have never had them split an order. Have you?
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Got the tubing in today for a couple new wide JFC chimneys. The last were 8mm ID; these will be almost 10mm ID. (compared in foreground)
Gonna try a different construction this time using an aluminum washer inside the chamber to sandwich the epoxy. That way no epoxy will be exposed to either the juice or the vapor. Will also strengthen the chimney assembly, making it easier to work on.
Gonna try a different construction this time using an aluminum washer inside the chamber to sandwich the epoxy. That way no epoxy will be exposed to either the juice or the vapor. Will also strengthen the chimney assembly, making it easier to work on.
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