madmonkey
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Yeah... my problem with these kinds of comparisons is that they are based on longevity tests. I don't give a damn about that; I want to know the actual output maximums before the battery hits a specific cut-off temp, or how hot the battery gets under 40+ amp loads. Basic longevity pulse tests don't really tell us much outside of how fast you're going to need another battery, and how long you'll get a high power pulse before you see a real diminish in performance. That isn't really informative... unless there's some hidden message in there that nobody is explaining.
Hey, thanks for posting that link....although I put no faith in it whatsoever....I can understand what you are saying about actual vaping performance being your concern but they're is no real credibility to a video saying "yes this are 40 amp batteries because the label says so and you can use them all the way down to .02, we do." Even with a voltage drop of a full volt on a fresh battery that's still 160 amps. Sure you can do it, but I'm ugly enough without taking my chances on a battery I know nothing about.
I agree with you completely about needing to know the batteries temp ratings and certain amp discharge levels as that is key and paramount in direct relation to a batteries overall and health and lifespan but I cannot completely ignore the bench tests that have been done on batteries either. As for the Imerens, well, I am not saying they don't put out the most power...I just read and respected your statement and opinions and I am stating mine in kind...please do not take this offensively as it's in no way or shape meant to be offensive....just my "side of the coin".
I understand what you're saying about bench test graphing only showing so much but at the same time it's not just the mah and discharge ratings that effect a batteries performance. The internal resistance of a battery is a huge factor and it goes up over time and wear...especially if you're pulsing your battery at, near, or over it's continuous amp rating. The warmer a battery gets and the harder it's pulsed with out time to rest the faster the internal resistance goes up....even unprotected batteries are designed to increase their internal resistance with stress and heat as a form of built in protection....decreasing your batteries performance...unforchanitely however they cannot lower their internal resistance once the damage has already been done. This leads to lower mah capacity, less output performance, and shortens the battery's life over all making that much easier to heat and stress. When a battery vents it's simply being pushed faster than the battery can raise it's internal resistance to protect itself and overloads. Even my old, and I mean old, stock authentic VTC 4's and 5s that I never push past 17-18amps (the lowest I build is .24, it seems to be my sweet spot...since I am dyslexic i just think of it as 42 and we all know that's the answer to everything )
They are getting warmer faster and their life and performance is starting to give out....since I don't trust new VTC 4's (I've ordered a couple and the vendor is reputable and swears they're authentic,) they don't seem to perform like the old ones did when they were new either. Samsung 25Rs are great on paper and they hold their middle charge just fine, but at low ohms they just don't seem to "hit hard" as they say if you wanna do it straight by feel like you're saying. I agree that the 20R's hit great at first but they drop fast as well. I have 1 LG HE2 I got with my vaporshark and I am not very impressed with it either but I want to try the HE4 just the same to see how it holds up and if it's ability to handle heat better is true or just a rumor.
But at least with these batteries I have the spec sheets and multiple independent graph tests to compare my "feel" and readings with an inline volt meter up to have a better understanding of the overall condition of my battery. You know what I mean? Even my "old" 10 amp 2000 mah AW's, they're less than a year old, been charged 25 times max...but with my old provari and even some .6 and .7 builds just to test their voltage drop sucks and they're supposed to be some of the best out there. I still like my old and on the way out 1600 mah AW and my VTC 3's for around the house...the VTC 3's hit like a brick but I don't have enough of them to get me threw the day without using others or charging them.
The other problem is, unlike with flashlights where there is some consistancy across the board with which chipsets and bulbs they drive so you can get a pretty good baseline of what to expect out of them is that everyone's vape is different. Even if two people have the same mod....one mod might be dirtier than the other, you can have two of the same atty with the same resistance reading but the builds are different gauge or type of wire....the performance will only be so consistent across the board and your actual mileage will very.
With all the rewrapping, false amperage claims, and all around sickening deceit going on in the battery business these days I would rather stick with decent performing reputable batteries than take my chances on the flavor of the week on the off chance I get the lemon out of the bunch. That's just my two cents with an extra nickel thrown in for good measure. I am not telling anyone what to use or not use, just stating my thought process behind the batteries I buy personally for myself and my friends I got vaping that actually are sticking with it and moving up to mods now themselves.