Hot botton kennedy vindicator 21700

[Goonkiller123]

im having a small problem with my kennedy vindicator, I’ve been getting a hot botton problem, basically when I’m vaping on the 3rd 4th draw I start feeling the difference in the draw and also the heat coming from the botton then stops for a few hits and starts again, everything started when I notice that my bottom spring was collapse so I reshape the spring nothing crazy of course, I’m vaping in my goon 1.5 some jboi coils 0.12 using a Samsung 30t no arching since I basically clean the mod every 3-5 with bluemagic to polish and also using some 3-1oil for the threads days so my mod have no patina on the threads or botton but really can tell why this is happening any advise will be appreciated.

 

[vaporloc]

That's the measured resistance .12 ohms? Using what to measure? With the Kennedy 25 RDA? With a fresh battery at 4.2V you are drawing the max 35A on that 30T, it's gonna get hot. Are you using the battery positive up or down on the vindicator?

 

[vaporloc]

Sorry. Just saw you were using the Goon 1.5 what did you use to measure the .12 ohms?

 

[vaporloc]

im having a small problem with my kennedy vindicator, I’ve been getting a hot botton problem, basically when I’m vaping on the 3rd 4th draw I start feeling the difference in the draw and also the heat coming from the botton then stops for a few hits and starts again, everything started when I notice that my bottom spring was collapse so I reshape the spring nothing crazy of course, I’m vaping in my goon 1.5 some jboi coils 0.12 using a Samsung 30t no arching since I basically clean the mod every 3-5 with bluemagic to polish and also using some 3-1oil for the threads days so my mod have no patina on the threads or botton but really can tell why this is happening any advise will be appreciated.

I'm new to posting on here so I didn't reply properly I don't think, but I had a few important questions for you in hopes of solving your problem. How did you measure the .12 ohm resistance? Is your battery positive up toward the RDA and the vent holes on the vindicator 25 or down toward the button? If you are vaping dual coils, and it says .12 ohms on jar then you are in considerable danger.

 

[Goonkiller123]

Ok si im using a paranormal dna 250c to set my coils and That’s the reading I’m getting, positive side of the battery facing the rda and yes dual coils, I’m aware about the low build and I appreciate your comment I do not considered my self as an expert how ever I’m used to vape like that I’m aware about battery safety and it’s not my first mech mod I’m just trying to get some ideas for the hot button since nothing that I’m aware in 3 1/2 years of vaping in mech mods is working

 

[vaporloc]

Let me put a .12 build on real quick and measure it on a dna250c and then a 521 tab plus and then put it on the vindicator and see if my button gets hot. Standby.

 

[vaporloc]

Ok si im using a paranormal dna 250c to set my coils and That’s the reading I’m getting, positive side of the battery facing the rda and yes dual coils, I’m aware about the low build and I appreciate your comment I do not considered my self as an expert how ever I’m used to vape like that I’m aware about battery safety and it’s not my first mech mod I’m just trying to get some ideas for the hot button since nothing that I’m aware in 3 1/2 years of vaping in mech mods is working

Ohmd out a .10 on a dna250c and it's the same on the 521 tab plus and battery nor switch is getting hot. Sorry to waste bandwidth and time.

 

[vaporloc]

Took off the spring and used no spring just gravity. Then replaced the spring with one I just made from a key ring. All using a fresh 30T and .12 on double coils and i couldn't duplicate the issue. Sorry. The atty and the mech got hot as hell but the battery and the switch remained cool. For what kind of duration are you holding the trigger? Does that Jboi coil have a high ramp time and you are holding for several seconds?

 

[Carambrda]

3-1 Oil on the screw threads or contacts is always a bad thing for electric conductivity. To clean the screw threads and contacts, use only the kind of contact spray that completely evaporates so it leaves no residue nor electric grease nor any kind of "protective" lube that "helps" to prevent corrosion, i.e., use a spraycan that contains only isopropyl alcohol and propene, with a microfiber towel or soft cotton balls to be able to reach inside the grooves of the screw threads and remove all the oil and grit from them. Further, verify that when you press the fire button of your mod, the fire contact is moving up and down correctly in a completely smooth motion. Try to figure out what caused the spring to collapse in the first place, as it normally shouldn't collapse just like that. Applying a tiny little bit of grease (not oil) to help the copper fire contact slide smoothly through the spring might remedy the problem, but don't put any grease between the copper fire contact and the copper button housing or anything like that.

 

[jwill]

Is this an authentic Kennedy? I have several of these and have never experienced a hot button with them and have built down to around .07.

 

[vaporloc]

Ok si im using a paranormal dna 250c to set my coils and That’s the reading I’m getting, positive side of the battery facing the rda and yes dual coils, I’m aware about the low build and I appreciate your comment I do not considered my self as an expert how ever I’m used to vape like that I’m aware about battery safety and it’s not my first mech mod I’m just trying to get some ideas for the hot button since nothing that I’m aware in 3 1/2 years of vaping in mech mods is working

Just in the interest of narrowing down the problem and troubleshooting, do a quick favor and remove one of the coils and run single coil for a few test fires. Even though you just doubled the resistance I predict that performance is doubled, ramp time hal ed and hot button is eliminated. I'm not aware of the specific coils you are running but I suspect this to be the nature of the problem. Try a simple build which in my experience when using mech tubes is always the best way to go. Just try it and see if anything changes.

 

[r055co]

I vape around 0.11 and never have had an issue with any of my Vindicator’s, I have the SS, Black and Copper. I would say it needs a good cleaning and also use something like Deoxit Gold on the threads, 90% of all issues like this comes to dirty connections.

 

[vaporloc]

Resistance isn't the entire picture though. Example:
If you run a four coil build you can easily hit .11 or even lower but your performance is going to drop like a rock and battery will sag and you will not have a good experience with the vindicator which is an excellent tube mod. I could be wrong but I think this is related to the coils he is running. By all means use the cleaner recommended but at least do a test running a simple build to see if anything changes.

 

[Carambrda]

Resistance isn't the entire picture though. Example:
If you run a four coil build you can easily hit .11 or even lower but your performance is going to drop like a rock and battery will sag and you will not have a good experience with the vindicator which is an excellent tube mod. I could be wrong but I think this is related to the coils he is running. By all means use the cleaner recommended but at least do a test running a simple build to see if anything changes.

Wrong. I'm vaping a .11 ohms dual coil build aliens 27/36 Ni80 4.5 wraps 2.5mm ID in mine as I'm typing this, using a Samsung 30T, and, the performance is stellar AND the button stays cold even after I chain vape on it for like 2 whole minutes.

 

[vaporloc]

Wrong? How about this extreme example to illustrate my point.

An 8 coil build using 8 coils each measuring a modest .2 ohms

The total resistance in this circuit is far below your build at a whopping .04 ohms.
Would you expect that having such a low resistance would net you outrageous performance? The answer is no. Because although you are creating a parallel circuit which reducesr resistance you are also adding load. Tell me I'm wrong.

 

[Goonkiller123]

3-1 Oil on the screw threads or contacts is always a bad thing for electric conductivity. To clean the screw threads and contacts, use only the kind of contact spray that completely evaporates so it leaves no residue nor electric grease nor any kind of "protective" lube that "helps" to prevent corrosion, i.e., use a spraycan that contains only isopropyl alcohol and propene, with a microfiber towel or soft cotton balls to be able to reach inside the grooves of the screw threads and remove all the oil and grit from them. Further, verify that when you press the fire button of your mod, the fire contact is moving up and down correctly in a completely smooth motion. Try to figure out what caused the spring to collapse in the first place, as it normally shouldn't collapse just like that. Applying a tiny little bit of grease (not oil) to help the copper fire contact slide smoothly through the spring might remedy the problem, but don't put any grease between the copper fire contact and the copper button housing or anything like that.

I did the cleaning process again using isopropyl alcohol and so far is working a bit better I’m thinking the problem is my spring, my mod is an authentic mod and like someone mentioned can’t tell what make my spring to collapse in the first place just let me ask you something else as you mentioned the spring should have a smooth throw and I’m using superlube dielectric grease, since here in my country I was not able to find noalox which I read is good for conductivity but I will like know your opinion on that.
Thanks

 

[Carambrda]

Wrong? How about this extreme example to illustrate my point.

An 8 coil build using 8 coils each measuring a modest .2 ohms

The total resistance in this circuit is far below your build at a whopping .04 ohms.
Would you expect that having such a low resistance would net you outrageous performance? The answer is no. Because although you are creating a parallel circuit which reducesr resistance you are also adding load. Tell me I'm wrong.

I was referring strictly to the hot button problem, which is the point of discussion. This particular problem isn't in any way connected to him using a .12 ohms coil build.

 

[vaporloc]

Sure it is. You can be running a .12ohm dual coil build and I can be running a dual build of .12ohms and each can completely different ramping and wire mass and each requiring different fire durations from the battery to heat the coil.

I simply asked that in the interest of testing he temporarily remove one coil to see if that effects anything. If he can build another Goon 1.5 with a dual coil .12 ohm build using a regular wire wrap even better. The way you troubleshoot is to eliminate variables. If after this simple experiment he is having the same problem he has just eliminated one entire variable with a relatively simple experiment. Temporarily remove one coil. Easy Peasy.

 

[vaporloc]

I dont know what a Jboi coil is, but if it is an exotic build it can be running in series on second and in parallel another second and because of multiple wires can be shorted across itself on one location but likely shorted across the wire all over the place creating different variables. If you dont think the logical first step is to eliminate the potential that his exotic build may be part of the problem, with a simple test which can elimimate one entire variable, then we have different processes in our troubleshooting. My suggestion is something he can do in a few seconds and no need to seek out a special cleaner. My Vindicators are used daily because it's my daily driver and the other one is dailied by my girl because we like the form factor and consistency and neither been cleaned so basedbon my experience I went aadifferent direction.

 

[Carambrda]

I did the cleaning process again using isopropyl alcohol and so far is working a bit better I’m thinking the problem is my spring, my mod is an authentic mod and like someone mentioned can’t tell what make my spring to collapse in the first place just let me ask you something else as you mentioned the spring should have a smooth throw and I’m using superlube dielectric grease, since here in my country I was not able to find noalox which I read is good for conductivity but I will like know your opinion on that.
Thanks

The lube/protectiveness that's in those particular kinds of contact cleaners that don't completely evaporate, if apllied on screw threads of a mech mod, has a tendency to be broken down gradually due to micro-arcing, which isn't to be confused with arcing. After the lube (and/or so-called "protective" layer) breaks down, it speeds up corrosion instead of slows it down so you get an adverse effect, and, you simply don't want that happening on a mech.

The only valid reason to use the kind of contact cleaner product that removes oxidation buildup (e.g., Deoxit Gold) on a mech's screw threads is only after you have stored the parts unscrewed for a long period. This is because oxidation is caused by bare metal surfaces coming into contact with oxygen from the air, and, by screwing the parts together, air gets squeezed out so whatever oxidation still occurs from changing out the battery or switching atomizers gets polished away by friction from screwing the parts together and ends up at the edge of narrow spaces in which, due to machining tolerances and small imperfections in the smoothness of the polished metal surfaces, the surfaces don't touch, where oxidised metal dust sits until it gets removed through regular maintenance cleaning.

In the narrow spaces where the metal surfaces don't touch, only a thin layer of air remains present if parts are kept screwed together tight so oxidation in them is minimal as a result, and does not matter because there is no electric conductivity when the metal surfaces don't touch in these specific areas.

Further, frequent polishing of screw threads should not be required if corrosion is kept to a minimum by keeping screw threads constantly clean. Frequent polishing removes metal, thereby causing small areas in which the metal surfaces don't touch to grow bigger over time until finally the resulting performance degradation becomes noticeable. I hope this was helpful.

 

[vaporloc]

Super helpful. Appreciate the time you spent in dropping the knowledge. Respect.

 

[vaporloc]

Wait a second. Frequent polishing removes metal where the two surfaces no longer touch and degrades performance. After reading this again I call bullsh#t. Polishing removes no more metal than a wire brush would remove which would be the preferred method of removing corrosion if it even exists. If the threads are threading together they are touching sufficiently to complete the circuit. Do you have sources you can site to back this up? Also the sources for the datasets used in calculating the 90% of these issues are a result of this phenomenon. Get a multimeter from the dollar store and set it to continuity and tell me there is an open circuit as a result of an air gap created from polishing metal away in the threads. I don't know why my bs meter was delayed in sounding it's alarm but u almost hypnotized me there for a second.

 

[jwill]

Its true dude. Anytime you have a break in contact it degrades performance. In general a tiny fission like this would not affect a normal circuit negatively in any noticeable way unless precision was a requirement, but when we are trying to edge every bit of performance from a circuit for measured precise hits, every little bit counts. Thats why people use silver contacts and springs and such. That little bit of extra oomph from the additional conductivity.

Arcing generates heat and extra power is required to meet the load requirements, even on a microscopic level. You can find a wealth of information on performance and power loss from breaks in circuits and you can look at studies on resistance of stranded vs solid core wire, the same principle applies.

 

[Carambrda]

I dont know what a Jboi coil is, but if it is an exotic build it can be running in series on second and in parallel another second and because of multiple wires can be shorted across itself on one location but likely shorted across the wire all over the place creating different variables. If you dont think the logical first step is to eliminate the potential that his exotic build may be part of the problem, with a simple test which can elimimate one entire variable, then we have different processes in our troubleshooting. My suggestion is something he can do in a few seconds and no need to seek out a special cleaner. My Vindicators are used daily because it's my daily driver and the other one is dailied by my girl because we like the form factor and consistency and neither been cleaned so basedbon my experience I went aadifferent direction.

That's just technically materially impossible excepting only if the battery is running so hot you'd be able to feel that throughout the whole body of the mod, not the button alone. The OP has made no mention whatsoever of the entire mod noticeably heating up; "a hot button problem" as described in this specific context logically infers no such symptoms exist.

 

[vaporloc]

I understand the gold plated and silver plated contacts but also question the real world performance gains that can be measured. A reason for gold and silver playing are also to reduce potential for corrosion while increasing connectivity and reduce arcing. I'll sit on the fence and suspend judgement but solid vs stranded wire has plenty of data available. At risk of derailing the thread which is more conductive? Which is more flexible?

 

[Carambrda]

Wait a second. Frequent polishing removes metal where the two surfaces no longer touch and degrades performance. After reading this again I call bullsh#t. Polishing removes no more metal than a wire brush would remove which would be the preferred method of removing corrosion if it even exists. If the threads are threading together they are touching sufficiently to complete the circuit. Do you have sources you can site to back this up? Also the sources for the datasets used in calculating the 90% of these issues are a result of this phenomenon. Get a multimeter from the dollar store and set it to continuity and tell me there is an open circuit as a result of an air gap created from polishing metal away in the threads. I don't know why my bs meter was delayed in sounding it's alarm but u almost hypnotized me there for a second.

This isn't what I wrote. The best strategy is to prevent corrosion before it happens, NOT to frequently remove corrosion by frequently polishing until ultimately so much metal has been polished away that those specific areas in which the two surfaces don't touch have grown so comparatively big they start to degrade performance to such an extent that this degradation can eventually be noticed by vaping.

 

[vaporloc]

What's technically impossible? You don't think that an exotic build is short circuiting on itself all over the place. It's within the positive and negative coil terminals so it's not creating a problem but inspect your Clapton or Alien and tell me there are no breaks on the wrapped wire. If it's broken how does it eneegize and heat up downstream. Because it's shorted the entire length of the wire.

 

[Carambrda]

I understand the gold plated and silver plated contacts but also question the real world performance gains that can be measured. A reason for gold and silver playing are also to reduce potential for corrosion while increasing connectivity and reduce arcing. I'll sit on the fence and suspend judgement but solid vs stranded wire has plenty of data available. At risk of derailing the thread which is more conductive? Which is more flexible?

Silver plated contacts versus copper contacts have no bearing on performance in any way that can be noticed by vaping, if the contacts are kept in good condition and are clean. The difference is in the maintenance of them, and, solid silver contacts are a whole different story even though cleanliness and keeping them in good condition is still paramount nevertheless. Mooch recently did a video in which he briefly explained this hotly debated, off-topic question.

 

[Carambrda]

What's technically impossible? You don't think that an exotic build is short circuiting on itself all over the place. It's within the positive and negative coil terminals so it's not creating a problem but inspect your Clapton or Alien and tell me there are no breaks on the wrapped wire. If it's broken how does it eneegize and heat up downstream. Because it's shorted the entire length of the wire.

If it is short circuiting on itself over the place, it causes the 30T battery to heat up, which, in turn, causes not only the button to heat up, but the tube itself in addition to that so if that's the case, surely the OP would have mentioned something about that instead of calling it "a hot button problem".

 

[vaporloc]

My point exactly. I'll agree with that. Cannot be noticed.

 

[vaporloc]

Not a dead short to ground. Between the terminals. Do a quick experiment.
# Grab a wrapped coil and a $2 meter
# Unwrap 1 mm from both ends
# Place one testing electrode on the wrap and another on the core at the other end
# tell me if there is continuity

How can there be continuity between the two ends unless there is a short? Of course it's shorted the entire length of the coil.

 

[vaporloc]

That said I use exotic builds daily. I prefer Stapled, staggered, caterpillars, you name it. I even run them in my tube sometimes but if I have a problem I know how to work backwards and solve it and I start by using a simple wire build step 1

 

[Carambrda]

Not a dead short to ground. Between the terminals. Do a quick experiment.
# Grab a wrapped coil and a $2 meter
# Unwrap 1 mm from both ends
# Place one testing electrode on the wrap and another on the core at the other end
# tell me if there is continuity

How can there be continuity between the two ends unless there is a short? Of course it's shorted the entire length of the coil.

Verifying coil build stability is not done by removing a coil. Rather, it is done by checking the screws are tightened properly and by careful visual inspection of EVERYTHING (and especially everything you suspect can't cause any harm because, if you're on a mech, Murphy's Law is more important than Ohm's Law excepting maybe you are feeling lucky or maybe your intention is to... you get the picture...) both before and whilst pulse firing it on a regulated mod at low wattage setting in cohort with simultaneous repetitive monitoring the resistance through an accurate, and verified to be accurate, ohms reader, and also by applying knowledge of how the given advanced coil build should look like, both when cold and during ramp up until starting to glow, under magnification if needed.

 

[vaporloc]

You win. My suggestion of removing a coil and doing a simple 30 second experiment has no merit. I have no experience in this field.

 

[vaporloc]

Show me your multimeter and I'll show you a device that can't measure accurately under .5 ohms

 

[Carambrda]

That said I use exotic builds daily. I prefer Stapled, staggered, caterpillars, you name it. I run them in my mech but if I have a problem I know how to work backwards and solve it and I start by using a simple wire build step 1

I never vape on anything that doesn't use an exotic build so I like to refer to exotic builds as "trivial" and "standard".

 

[vaporloc]

That's because you're punk rock. You use aliens which is just clapton'd wire that's wavy. Not impressed.

 

[Carambrda]

Show me your multimeter and I'll show you a device that can't measure accurately under .5 ohms

I don't use a multimeter to measure the resistance of my coil builds, and, I never build that low because I simply don't need to. You'd hve to get a terribly expensive Fluke for that if you insist on using a multimeter, and so I measure the resistance of my coil builds by using a Sifu-B Tab instead, which is sufficient for measuring resistances around 0.1 ohm. My multimeter is for checking the voltage of my batteries only, which, BTW, it actually can do with sufficient accuracy.

 

[Carambrda]

That's because you're punk rock. You use aliens which is just clapton'd wire that's wavy. Not impressed.

You're just an annoying child trying to impress others by bigmouthing instead of being helpful trying to troubleshoot the OP's problem so please, cry me a river.

 

[vaporloc]

You never build how low? Under .5 ohms? Only milliohmeters can accurately measure under .5 ohms. You use a multimeter for checking battery voltage? That's interesting. You sound like a pro. Are u sponsored?

 

[vaporloc]

No. Actually I was trying to help solve the problem. You started this by saying I was wrong and Ive always supported my arguments with evidence or suggested expirements to prove my point. You are the child. I wish I was a kid again though so does that count?

 

[Carambrda]

You never build how low? Under .5 ohms? Only milliohmeters can accurately measure under .5 ohms. You use a multimeter for checking battery voltage? That's interesting. You sound like a pro. Are u sponsored?

Under .05 ohms. Now you can go fuck yourself.

 

[vaporloc]

I'll just sit this out on the sidelines but before I do I'll provide the answer to the ampacity of stranded vs solid wire that jwill posed and I rebuffed. Stranded and solid wire at a given AWG have equal ampacity and conductivity the difference is in the flexibility. I tried to give you that hint earlier. Larger gauge wire is only available in stranded even though stranded costs more to produce. Why? Try pulling #500mcm service entrance conductors in an underground conduit and turn them up 90 degrees into the bottom of a switchgear. If they weren't stranded it would be impossible. It's virtually impossible even with stranded wire. Try bending a stranded #500mcm at a 90 degree angle without a hypress then imagine solid if it existed. Alright kiddos. Hope you solve this issue.

 

[vaporloc]

Why you getting so upset? I said ill show you a device that can't measure accurately under .5 ohms and you said you dont build that low. Not sure why you are getting upset but ok. cheers.

 

[MrMeowgi]

@vaporloc just wanted to say welcome to the Vu. It's not always this rowdy here. Hope you find other threads to enjoy.

 

[Carambrda]

@Goonkiller123

As you probably already know, removing a coil doubles the resistance (or thereabout). As a result from this, a lot less current will flow through the mod, the button on it so, as you also probably already know, it is only logical the fact the hot button will get a lot less hot after that, thus improving the symptoms instead of addressing the root cause of the problem, and, if things seemed to have spiraled out of control a bit in your thread with my resposnes to "that guy", it's because mostly I'm allergic to BS (not pointing at you).

 

[vaporloc]

I appreciate the welcome and apologize to the OP and to Carambrda. Despite everyone's best intentions I helped fuel what led to the name calling and am equally at fault for it happening. Carambrda is correct and doubling the resistance will also reduce current flow by half because they have an inverse relationship to each other and the test might mask the problem rather than solve it. This is a good point, and if you are unable to place a simple build measuring .12 ohms total, then just disregard the suggestion. If the button was still getting hot after removing the coil however it could still prove useful in determining the cause. I'm still going to sit this one out and see how it pans out from the sidelines but it's because I'm not sure I have much left to offer in terms of help assuming anything I contributed even offered anything constructive in the first place. I believe something good came from it even if it's a demonstration of how after things spiral out of control, individuals can recognize where they can improve in life, that maturity cannot be measured with age, that it's dangerous to subscribe too heavily to your theories if it gives you tunnel vision, that the more you experiment with things the more you learn, and that there is more joy in learning something new than can be had in simply being right all the time. This is not directed at anyone other than an analysis of what I can learn from where we now are in this discussion. I will sit back and watch how this turns out and hopefully learn something new because that's always my favorite thing. Thanks again for the welcome wagon and my sincere apologies to the OP and Carambrda. Vape on and hope you can solve this. Respect.

 

[r055co]

I appreciate the welcome and apologize to the OP and to Carambrda. Despite everyone's best intentions I helped fuel what led to the name calling and am equally at fault for it happening. Carambrda is correct and doubling the resistance will also reduce current flow by half because they have an inverse relationship to each other and the test might mask the problem rather than solve it. This is a good point, and if you are unable to place a simple build measuring .12 ohms total, then just disregard the suggestion. If the button was still getting hot after removing the coil however it could still prove useful in determining the cause. I'm still going to sit this one out and see how it pans out from the sidelines but it's because I'm not sure I have much left to offer in terms of help assuming anything I contributed even offered anything constructive in the first place. I believe something good came from it even if it's a demonstration of how after things spiral out of control, individuals can recognize where they can improve in life, that maturity cannot be measured with age, that it's dangerous to subscribe too heavily to your theories if it gives you tunnel vision, that the more you experiment with things the more you learn, and that there is more joy in learning something new than can be had in simply being right all the time. This is not directed at anyone other than an analysis of what I can learn from where we now are in this discussion. I will sit back and watch how this turns out and hopefully learn something new because that's always my favorite thing. Thanks again for the welcome wagon and my sincere apologies to the OP and Carambrda. Vape on and hope you can solve this. Respect.

I see you've run into one of the few assholes at VU, me I got tired of his bullshit and just put him on my ignore list.

Welcome to VU, lots of great information and most all here are great.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

[vaporloc]

Thanks. I have an education and career in AC and DC circuits and own a couple of Vindicators so I thought I might be able to help which is why I signed up on the forums was for this specific thread, otherwise I would have just lurked here and read but it didn't go so well. If these guys can't figure it out I'd be happy to give it another go but it sounds like they've got it figured out. Cheers.

 

[Goonkiller123]

Thanks. I have an education and career in AC and DC circuits and own a couple of Vindicators so I thought I might be able to help which is why I signed up on the forums was for this specific thread, otherwise I would have just lurked here and read but it didn't go so well. If these guys can't figure it out I'd be happy to give it another go but it sounds like they've got it figured out. Cheers.

Thanks I tried removing one coil but as mentioned before the botton got less hot but I still feel the loose of power in a few draws like I mentioned before is not constant works beautifully for a few draws and happens again one or two times, I tried cleaning and polish the mod and threads, also worth mentioning that I removed the spring as you mentioned and seems to work perfectly not hot botton which I’m assuming the cause of these problem is my spring.