...only option they need to add imo is press/hold watt increments - i would love to remove the tenths
Go to controls on the config page and you can select 1W increments. My 4 all scroll with a press and hold of the + - buttons.
...only option they need to add imo is press/hold watt increments - i would love to remove the tenths
Please share the design.I will try to figure out how to share the design.
Agree! I too love the portability of the Pico. Its a solid little mod, I keep silicone sleeves on mine, dropped one of them on my ceramic tile floor yesterday, no harm whatsove (but lucky it landed flat on its side, didn't break my glass atty). Solid yet inexpensive! Looking forward to checking out the evic VTC with AF on it as well!Welcome to the VU. I have 4 DNA 200 mods and 2 DNA 75 mods but I'm vaping an RX200S with AF in temp mode SS316L right now..It's given new life all my Joyetech chipped mods. I also have it on a Pico, istick 200W TC and an Evic mini. The Pico has become my favorite out and about mod.
No it's close but look at the pictures in the first post and the Evolv software is more comprehensive. AF has a few things Evolv doesn't but Evolve will do more.I reckon Evolv's firmware is actually inferior to AF. So you don't need to rush to get yourself a DNA mod.
I've had my Pico since they first came out and it's been a solid mod never gave me any problems and the TC works well.Agree! I too love the portability of the Pico. Its a solid little mod, I keep silicone sleeves on mine, dropped one of them on my ceramic tile floor yesterday, no harm whatsove (but lucky it landed flat on its side, didn't break my glass atty). Solid yet inexpensive! Looking forward to checking out the evic VTC with AF on it as well!
Evolv doesn't do 4-battery mods. All the decent DNA mods either are expensive, or are lacking in power output... and eventually they still break because all electronics do. So much so, you can buy two RX300 mods instead of only one DNA and still end up being cheaper. The constant pluggings-in of the USB cable with Evolv give me the heebie jeebie USB beebies. With ArcticFox you can save pretty much all your settings directly into the mod in just one go─including multiple custom power curves. The custom power curves in VW mode are all I ever use, anyway in the first place. For me, temp control does jack nothing.No it's close but look at the pictures in the first post and the Evolv software is more comprehensive. AF has a few things Evolv doesn't but Evolve will do more.
Except the chip doesn't perform as well so all the firmware features can't update the hardwareI reckon Evolv's firmware is actually inferior to AF. So you don't need to rush to get yourself a DNA mod.
While it is true that differences in hardware performance can be objectively measured, the vape experience and performance is still largely subjective nevertheless. And then you also have to factor in the gap between cost and performance.Except the chip doesn't perform as well so all the firmware features can't update the hardware
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Except the chip doesn't perform as well
I feel the same way, I always liked my Pico but now I love it and my RX 2/3 turned into another great mod after I installed it. I find those are the two I use the most and the other gets a long rest between uses. I am sure I will pick up a DNA device in the future however I am not in a rush to do so.Since I discovered AF I use my little VTC mini more often. Just dont see a point in buying DNA mod anymore. Great work AF!
While it is true that differences in hardware performance can be objectively measured, the vape experience and performance is still largely subjective nevertheless. And then you also have to factor in the gap between cost and performance.
That said, just because the hardware has some limitations, doesn't necessarily also mean those limitations are severe enough to justify another choice of hardware that at least in theory should give better performance, but that in practice still fails to deliver on those promises due to being held back by poor software and or due to this claimed hardware "superiority" being seriously over hyped.
you can think what you want for sure, but it's like saying a honda civic will be as good as a ferrari just by tweaking the ECM. You can't make hardware better via firmware upgrades. You can optimize what you have, but can't improve it. and I'm far from a DNA fanboy. I'd still take my G2 and g class over a DNA. It really depends on your set up i mean a single spaced NI200 coil may not be much of a difference most of the time but dual staggered fused SS316 coils will show a massive difference. A lot is the just inconsistency and the poor 510 designs Can't speak on the pico but the predator was still awful in temp control with AF due to the 510 pin not giving a solid resistance reading. If the chip can't get a good resistance reading all the time, how can it give good temp control? AF is awesome, i just wish they made it for better chips.I've yet to see proof of that. DNA boards look just as Chinese as AF-supported boards, and all my AF mods work just as well as all my DNA mods. And I for one use nothing but temperature control on all my mods. So I know when it works well and when it doesn't, and I can tell you, there is zero difference between an AF Pico, AF VTC or AF Predator and a Drone, VT Inbox or Therion. No difference whatsoever.
The only difference is, AF doesn't require a flippin' computer to set advanced parameters - it's all accessible through onboard menus. But then I hear the newest Evolve firmware do that too now. So I guess newer DNA boards win now, on account of the fact that you can do useless skinning with them...
Yes, it can cause too, but the main hardware problem is in connection of negative 510 post (threading) to common ground. It is not connected by wire (as on Pico), it is just press fitted in body. And common ground from PCB goes on body through screws. The saddest situation is in Predator, the grounding passes through the body through a variety of compounds, which can not in any way provide a good contact. No solid contact - the resistance is incorrectly measured, it is usually overestimated on atomizer detect. Then you press Fire, the current (compared to the measuring one) increases significantly, somewhere the contact gets better, and the box measures the resistance already lower than in the idle time, which is actually the right one. But it does not know about it It thinks that if the resistance has significantly dropped, then somewhere a short circuit. And current protection is activated, hello "Atomizer short". Roughly the same thing happens with TC: the box sees that the resistance is decreasing, but it should increase. "Oops, something goes wrong, I'll better switch to Power Mode..."
IDK i would hope so personally. could always ask on their forumsIs there any chance for AF to make FW for other brands?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hello everyone,
I want to clarify at once: ArcticFox is a custom firmware for Joyetech, Wismec, Eleaf and Co brands devices.
All requests for third-party device support, such as Smok, iJoy, etc. Will be immediately closed.
At the moment we are not interested in supporting other manufacturers.
Perhaps this can be changed in the future, but we do not give any guarantee that this can happen.
Thank you for reading and understanding.
As for Joyetech & Co., then at least we have the concept of many of his illnesses, and we can at least help, to warn the user, to dissuade from purchase unsuccessful model.
But, yes, we are fully reaping the fruits of popularity. With each new model, the number of problems grows exponentially. And the most sad, this is a 100% bad build quality, poor quality control, everything is bad, except for the electronics itself. A creepy candy with a very good stuffing. The shell spoils everything...
AF make it worse instead. I start a nervous tic from each new topic with a "Atomizer short" mention. On the quality assembled hardware all works great. And how can this be explained to the user that he have to take the screwdriver and rebuild brand new box?
The real Eleaf fail was only QC 200 - battery quality is disgusting.
I have Pico 75 and Pico 25. Old Pico has no issues at all. Pico 25 has horrible body, and I had to disassemble it and wash PCB off the flux residues (it incorrectly measured atomizer while charging). Otherwise, yes, everything is just fine, I'm not disappointed in this new model at all.
If you emphasize in your reviews that recently the purchase of new models from Joyetech & Co. turns into Russian roulette, and custom firmware is not a panacea, and it should not be a decisive reason for choosing - we and many others will be very grateful. Aggressive marketing should not harm users in any way, and users should know the whole state of things, objectively and truthfully.
the pico is one of the devices that AF works well with as it's well built. The eleaf stuff seems to be pretty good. it's mostly the joyetech/wismec stuff that's bad, especially the newer ones. I can't speak on the evic mini. I'll try my pico25 with AF after i do a reviewI think I will do my own testing. I have AF on a Pico running TC with. 0.6 ohm SS coil and another running Pico version 1.00. two evic VTCs on the way from china. My Pico is no champion of measuring cold resistance it varies 0.03 ohms ( plus or minus 0.015) It does temp control well though I have to adjust the temp at times still a good vape and decently hugs the setting on NFE tools trends. Accuracy wise I had to set my M1 TCR to 80 on the Pico firmware to get temperature accuracy as measured by my thermocouple, and of course that shifts if the actual cold resistance changes. I've seen some user data showing the cold resistance more stable on the evic mini, we shall see. The AF blows away Pico in terms of knowing what's going on, fine tuning preheat, DNA TFR settings etc and gives a good tc vape. Still learning but I believe what my testing results show.
Look forward to it. I think it's a good idea to test TC on the firmware it comes with and then you have something to compare to when you put AF on it. That's why I keep Pico 1.00 on one of mine. For now. Hahathe pico is one of the devices that AF works well with as it's well built. The eleaf stuff seems to be pretty good. it's mostly the joyetech/wismec stuff that's bad, especially the newer ones. I can't speak on the evic mini. I'll try my pico25 with AF after i do a review
maybe one day I'll measure actual temp lol i can pretty much tell for the most part but I'm more concerned with it being smooth and consistent then when it cuts off. realistically who cares if it's 20 or 30 degrees off as long as it's smooth and consistentOh forgot to mention my actual temperature was 50 deg F high at a 400 degF setting when using 28awg SS single spaced coil with the Pico firmware set for SS. Saw a YouTube Visio with similar results and he se M1 to 79 and got good accuracy, and the same worked for me.
What resistance coil are you using when you get that big voltage dip? I'll watch for that when my VTC minis arrive, thanks!I'd like to see DJLsb or Phil do a test of AF. Subjectively speaking my Eleaf mods give me no problems. (Pico and 200W TC) My RX200S always gave occasional atty errors and got real bad with 170603 but 170607 fixed it and it's been fine for a while now. The Evic mini has such a voltage drop spike when you first fire it that when the battery gets much bellow half way it sometimes triggers the low battery error. Especially with a cold coil.
Incorrect. The hardware performance is not the same thing as the vape performance, and, because the vape performance is largely dependent of how a person vapes, the vape performance is still largely subjective.I underlined exactly why you are contradicting yourself
Similarly, you can't make firmware better via hardware upgrades. Without the firmware, the hardware becomes a useless paperweight so your car won't even start. You can think that the difference in hardware performance we're discussing is as significant as that between a Honda Civic and a Ferrari for sure, but it's like suggesting your own personal opinion is the only important one. Hardly anyone listens to that kind of talk unless you're just trying to be funny.you can think what you want for sure, but it's like saying a honda civic will be as good as a ferrari just by tweaking the ECM. You can't make hardware better via firmware upgrades.
Now you're only assuming it needs to be improved. If I'm going to be the guy who will be vaping on it, then either it will need to be improved before it will be capable to meet my performance goals for my budget that I specifically had in mind, or it simply won't need to be improved.You can optimize what you have, but can't improve it.
I don't use temp control. So why would I spend a ton of extra money on an improvement of a feature that I'll never use? I only use VW mode. But I use it with a preheat setting in ArcticFox. And this preheat setting is using a custom power curve. This is on my RX300 with a single big Ni80 alien coil in my authentic 24mm Goon RDA. Without the preheat the flavor is diminished noticeably due to the ramp up of the coil. Without the custom power curve that I edited myself I can feel on the vape when the preheat stops so it just wrecks the vape experience, and the flavor is still diminished noticeably as well. I do not own a Predator, and I have never vaped on one.and I'm far from a DNA fanboy. I'd still take my G2 and g class over a DNA. It really depends on your set up i mean a single spaced NI200 coil may not be much of a difference most of the time but dual staggered fused SS316 coils will show a massive difference. A lot is the just inconsistency and the poor 510 designs Can't speak on the pico but the predator was still awful in temp control with AF due to the 510 pin not giving a solid resistance reading. If the chip can't get a good resistance reading all the time, how can it give good temp control?
My own personal piece of advice is to just try to forget temp control.AF is awesome, i just wish they made it for better chips.
I agree stability around the setpoint is more imporant than temperature accuracy. I do think 50 deg off is unacceptable and certain it would be for those worried about aldehydes of which I am not haha.maybe one day I'll measure actual temp lol i can pretty much tell for the most part but I'm more concerned with it being smooth and consistent then when it cuts off. realistically who cares if it's 20 or 30 degrees off as long as it's smooth and consistent
except read my post below where the AF devs flat out say the RX300 sucks and AF makes it worse. the actual devs flat out said it and yet you are saying they are wrong too? LMAO come on manIncorrect. The hardware performance is not the same thing as the vape performance, and, because the vape performance is largely dependent of how a person vapes, the vape performance is still largely subjective.
Similarly, you can't make firmware better via hardware upgrades. Without the firmware, the hardware becomes a useless paperweight so your car won't even start. You can think that the difference in hardware performance we're discussing is as significant as that between a Honda Civic and a Ferrari for sure, but it's like suggesting your own personal opinion is the only important one. Hardly anyone listens to that kind of talk unless you're just trying to be funny.
Now you're only assuming it needs to be improved. If I'm going to be the guy who will be vaping on it, then either it will need to be improved before it will be capable to meet my performance goals for my budget that I specifically had in mind, or it simply won't need to be improved.
I don't use temp control. So why would I spend a ton of extra money on an improvement of a feature that I'll never use? I only use VW mode. But I use it with a preheat setting in ArcticFox. And this preheat setting is using a custom power curve. This is on my RX300 with a single big Ni80 alien coil in my authentic 24mm Goon RDA. Without the preheat the flavor is diminished noticeably due to the ramp up of the coil. Without the custom power curve that I edited myself I can feel on the vape when the preheat stops so it just wrecks the vape experience, and the flavor is still diminished noticeably as well. I do not own a Predator, and I have never vaped on one.
My own personal piece of advice is to just try to forget temp control.
it depends high or low lolI agree stability around the setpoint is more imporant than temperature accuracy. I do think 50 deg off is unacceptable and certain it would be for those worried about aldehydes of which I am not haha.
My own personal piece of advice is to just try to forget temp control.
Also gotta say, so far the wyvern which i purchased for 40 bucks is just as good as the snow wolf 200 plus, you can also throw in the charon as well and in some situations the drag. all 3 of those are around 40 bucks as well. The aspire archon does a really good job too and i paid under 40 for mine but seen it on sale as low as 25 bucks. the G2 is only 60 currently and leagues above all those. and if you can deal with 100 watts the slice which i paid 30 for all 4 i purchased also runs circles.Well yeah if on a Wismec device, TC is only viable when it has a steady connection which there piss poor 510 does not provide.
Your argument would be valid if there was only $100+ mods that provide suitable TC performance. That's not the case though with the Snow Wolf 200 plus, Battlestar and Tesla Nano 120 which are all right around the same price and do real good TC. Even the Sigelei Snow Wolf 365 runs circles around Wismec devices for TC. This is all with stock firmware although if AF decided to make a custom firmware for those devices I would be willing to try it out.
I have a RX200, RX200S, Vapor Flask Stout and Classic, Beyond Vape Centurion and a Predator which luckily still has an attached 510. All of these mods were made by Wismec and they all suck at TC. After using AF on my RX200 it was better but not in the same class as the other affordable mods I mentioned above.
I think it is great what AF is doing but even they know it is a bandaid on a knife wound. These Wismec devices fail at the most important part of the mod, a solid connection.
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
Also gotta say, so far the wyvern which i purchased for 40 bucks is just as good as the snow wolf 200 plus, you can also throw in the charon as well and in some situations the drag. all 3 of those are around 40 bucks as well. The aspire archon does a really good job too and i paid under 40 for mine but seen it on sale as low as 25 bucks. the G2 is only 60 currently and leagues above all those. and if you can deal with 100 watts the slice which i paid 30 for all 4 i purchased also runs circles.
dude literally all the need to is use the 510 design from the charon and ground the chip to the 510 and use 2 guage thicker wiring and their mods would be awesome. literally pennies to make those improvements and they can past the cost along to us i'd gladly pay a few bucks more for a great mod.I got my eye on that ferrari red wyvern for sure.
For all the shit sigelei/Laisimo takes there mods are pretty solidly built. Sure my 155....errrr 213 is a lying lier who lies when it comes to power output and poor TC unless you use the TFR function. That said it is a tough POS and has sustained a lot more abuse than my wismec mods and keeps on working just fine.
I really wish Wismec would just use a solid 510, everyone is asking for it. If they did I would buy back into there mods. As it is now though I stay away, not going to give them another nickel until they get there shit together.
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
LMAOThe pinto came out in like 73, but yeah. Lol
I've heard several people say using the Power curve in AF gives a good vape. Although I'm pretty new to vaping TC, as a controls systems engineer I can see how this can make a smoother vape than standard power control where the coil just keeps getting hotter until you release the fire button. When I get a chance I will play around with that and see first hand. I do know I'm getting a smoother vape on my pico with TC than regular power control though i have to reset cold resistance on ocassion, perhaps due to my CLR coils as much as my Pico, in going to try it on my kayfuns when I get a chance and find out.Incorrect. The hardware performance is not the same thing as the vape performance, and, because the vape performance is largely dependent of how a person vapes, the vape performance is still largely subjective.
Similarly, you can't make firmware better via hardware upgrades. Without the firmware, the hardware becomes a useless paperweight so your car won't even start. You can think that the difference in hardware performance we're discussing is as significant as that between a Honda Civic and a Ferrari for sure, but it's like suggesting your own personal opinion is the only important one. Hardly anyone listens to that kind of talk unless you're just trying to be funny.
Now you're only assuming it needs to be improved. If I'm going to be the guy who will be vaping on it, then either it will need to be improved before it will be capable to meet my performance goals for my budget that I specifically had in mind, or it simply won't need to be improved.
I don't use temp control. So why would I spend a ton of extra money on an improvement of a feature that I'll never use? I only use VW mode. But I use it with a preheat setting in ArcticFox. And this preheat setting is using a custom power curve. This is on my RX300 with a single big Ni80 alien coil in my authentic 24mm Goon RDA. Without the preheat the flavor is diminished noticeably due to the ramp up of the coil. Without the custom power curve that I edited myself I can feel on the vape when the preheat stops so it just wrecks the vape experience, and the flavor is still diminished noticeably as well. I do not own a Predator, and I have never vaped on one.
My own personal piece of advice is to just try to forget temp control.
I owned a 72 Pinto, watch it. haha. came out in 1968The pinto came out in like 73, but yeah. Lol
So, I looked it up. It was designed in 68 and sold in late 71 as a 72 model. It was the Mustang II I was thinking of, they came out late 73 as a 74 model though. They were basically the same car. My mother had both. She had the pinto wagon with the woody look. Lmao.I owned a 72 Pinto, watch it. haha. came out in 1968
That is funny. I think the word classic in the name throws people off to fact that it is newer than the plus and the combo. The combo is closer than the plus even.This thread reminds me of my trip to one of the local shops earlier this week. I had my trusty Finder DNA 250/Griffin 25 with me and was looking for a new juice to try when the owner started giving me shit about my Griffin, said I needed to upgrade to a Limitless plus, I told him I have 2 Limitless classics as well as 2 Exo at home on other mods but I like the Griffins and still run them, he then replied that I need to buy the Limitless plus once again, I asked why I would buy the plus when I already have 2 of the Classics and the Classic is an improved version of the plus? He said no its not, I said yes it is, we quit talking, I bought some Fresh Squeezed blueberry banana that was amazing and left wishing I would have stabbed him in the neck. And thats my story