The pin is supposed to be adjustable, but since there is not a slot for a screwdriver does that make it spring loaded? Still looks like it would be easy to put a FD 510 in it
Mine was too low, I had to screw the 510's on my attys down lower to make a connection. It was fine until my mod went kaput.
Well, I'm about to send mine back so I have time. I really would like this done though even when I get my new one in. Please remember me
I have used both of my V1 with RDA's built at .5, and without issue except my 2nd Zero doesn't like the Lancia RDA for some reason.
Ok, NI200 first go. It's really interesting. I have about 10 wraps, single coil, 29awg running at 0.17ohms at 25w with temp set at 470*. It's a really good vape, nice and warm however I don't think I am getting as much out of my wick as I would with Kenthal. The W starts dropping pretty quick to keep within the temperature limit so before you know it you are running at around 10w and flavour gone. No dry hits at all which is impressive. I think I need more wick in this. The nickel wire is amazingly soft and quite hard to work with. I also got 25awg but that's too thick and giving me only about .07 with 10 wraps. Anyway..really happy with this frankenstein Zero but this temperature control is tricky and totally new way of building.
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Yeah i was dumbfounded nikkita6... I didn't say anything about rdas or rbas so it was weird for them to respond like that..Did they really? Errrr .. that doesn't sound encouraging
Yosen never made any statements like this to me, but I guess I know what I will be testing first when the new V2's arrive. Based on tracking it looks like I will have them by Saturday .. I hope.
Hahaha! I was totally going to say the same thing!!! RBA PLAYA!!!!!!
Yeah, I think that some of these companies have bots answering their customer service e-mails. I had sent some to Kanger a while back and kept getting really short responses that didn't answer my questions at all in any way that made me feel like they even understood what I was asking.
I received the Zero V2 this afternoon - So far so good.
First Impressions:
510 Connector - Good
Fire Button - Seems softer in a good way.
Autofiring - none so far
Up/Down Buttons - Softer, but it's good
Screen Alignment - Perfect
Chip - Does not display output voltage. Always says 0.00. That said the output seems to be on par with other devices using the same atty/build. Overall it's a great improvement over the original. The voltage display is just a little annoying - who really looks at the screen while taking a vape?
**Correction - output voltage is being displayed correctly and apparently I'm going blind.
It does seem to be displaying Ohm's correctly - at least on the 1.2 I had this afternoon. I'll dive in with some different builds and have more info later.
Build quality - Enormous improvement over V1 - Like HOLY SHIT that's so much better improvement. Here's some quick autopsy pictures
Chip Cradle (Oh yea!)
Switch / Button Wires
Ground connection to body
Good job to the folks at Yosen!
Found some time to get the 40 installed today and it's working grreaat! I think this may be my new favorite mod.
I left out the USB charge port because I don't use it. I think the screen is a little tiny bit off so I will be readjusting and may install the charge port later.
Bring some patience with you because it's really tight in there.
Wiring
See DNA40 Wiring diagram for button wiring layout and specifics. (Page 8)
http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf
Zero specific wiring:
Ground is wired directly to stainless steel body - Reuse the solder spot already present on the zero body. I wired both battery ground and ground to body and used them as legs for the board. Similar to how it shipped from Yosen.
Red lead wire from the Zero insert wired to Out on the DNA board (Atomizer).
Black lead wire from the Zero insert wired to Battery + on the DNA board (Positive Battery).
**If your doing this your Zero may be wired from Yosen differently than mine was. You need to verify this before wiring to your DNA chip. You can see the wire soldered to the 510 pin - that one goes to Out. On mine it was red, but don't assume another Zero would be the same.
Buttons
I used these switches off of Amazon:
12mm x 12mm x 4.3mm Momentary Tact Switch (Fire)
6mm x 6mm x 5mm Momentary Tact Switch (Power Adjustment)
Notes:
On the 12 x 12 fire switch I snipped the 4 plastic dots off of the face of the switch
Smaller wire is better - Evolv calls for 28 gauge minimum - it's tight in there.
I got to the end thinking I was all done and buttoned everything up and it wasn't working. The buttons seemed ok, but they were getting pressed just enough. This prevented the device from turning on. So, make sure your tact switches have good clearance.
I reused the board and super glued the switches to it after soldering the leads - it may have been easier to leave out the board.
Make sure to verify placement - this wasn't my first try
Connected to board and ready for solder
From the bottom
Screen
I reused the tape from the factory to keep the alignment while it's being installed. If you hold it up to a light source you can make out the outline of the screen and get it aligned pretty straight then fold the tape down over it.
Also, the solder next to the usb port on mine was preventing me from adjusting the screen so I had to remove some of the solder to get the screen straight.
Time for a vape
I'm done building for today. I'll test the temp control tomorrow.
Yes for some reason the links wouldn't link in the post,..
Would these be the same?:
hmm, is it so much bigger that it wont physically fit, or will it just obscure part of the screen? Will the board itself fit?
