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VTR to katos mod help
- Thread starter Diescum88
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Ellipsis
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seems to me you would need to replace the existing buttons, the fire button mainly, and use a mechanical switch style similar to the REO mod and rewire the positive side of the battery from the switch and rewire the 510 since everything originally was sent to the circuitry and out from the circuitry...
find the inside drawings from a kato and meld with a few tricks from the REO and you will be set...
find the inside drawings from a kato and meld with a few tricks from the REO and you will be set...
You've got a job ahead of you. I run a Kato and I have experience with my gf's VTR. Strangely, I run my Kato regulated (kicked).
But ... here's a stab at a description of what's happening to bring the positive terminal to the top cap center pin. At the bottom of the battery tube, there is a metal bar which transfers current to the atomizer side of the mod. It is insulated from the body of the mod, and the center pin is a long copper screw which is threaded into the bar. I run my Kato with the positive pole facing the bottom of the mod which makes the body of the Kato my ground connection by way of the fire button. For my purposes, I replaced the long copper top cap center pin with a kick on the atomizer side of the mod.
HTH
But ... here's a stab at a description of what's happening to bring the positive terminal to the top cap center pin. At the bottom of the battery tube, there is a metal bar which transfers current to the atomizer side of the mod. It is insulated from the body of the mod, and the center pin is a long copper screw which is threaded into the bar. I run my Kato with the positive pole facing the bottom of the mod which makes the body of the Kato my ground connection by way of the fire button. For my purposes, I replaced the long copper top cap center pin with a kick on the atomizer side of the mod.
HTH
This is the long center pin and top cap for the Kato.
This is the metal bar that carries positive from battery to atomizer side of the mod. You can see that the metal bar is isolated from the body by a plastic carrier tray. The long center pin would replace the silver screw if I was going to return the Kato to full mech operation.
Finally, this is the body as viewed from the bottom. That long center pin would pass through the space being occupied by the Kick.
Now, with all this typed out, I am expecting you will replace most of this with wire in a VTR. Wiring it up as a mosfet switched box seems your most direct approach.
Good tinkering.
This is the metal bar that carries positive from battery to atomizer side of the mod. You can see that the metal bar is isolated from the body by a plastic carrier tray. The long center pin would replace the silver screw if I was going to return the Kato to full mech operation.
Finally, this is the body as viewed from the bottom. That long center pin would pass through the space being occupied by the Kick.
Now, with all this typed out, I am expecting you will replace most of this with wire in a VTR. Wiring it up as a mosfet switched box seems your most direct approach.
Good tinkering.
Might be less headache to just buy a Kato. I bought this one which is a Limwell. Very high quality, worked right out of the box. It was 39 dollars, but still a deal at 45.
Yeah but I have a VTR that shorted and is now gutted, prolly end up buying one but I like to tinker and play around/build mods so it's more or less just doing it for fun
Oh you should tinker around and see how much work it would take to make it into a NAOS raptor vtr.
If I had the $, I'd prolly give it a shot