things to avoid..if you don't want to blow yourself up with a mech.

Discussion in 'Unregulated (Mechanical) Mods' started by pulsevape, Jan 20, 2017.

  1. f1r3b1rd

    f1r3b1rd Phantom Pilot Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 2 Years

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  2. lzbobcat

    lzbobcat Member For 2 Years

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    Really nice presentation .!
     
  3. lzbobcat

    lzbobcat Member For 2 Years

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    And throw it like a grenade! Duck and cover!
     
  4. fraleywp

    fraleywp Silver Contributor

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    Mooch, have you tested the other efest 26650? It is rated 50 amps by the manufacturer and definitely outperforms the one you have listed. I doubt it will be near it's rating though.
    [​IMG]

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  5. Puneet Sharma

    Puneet Sharma Member For 2 Years

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    Thanks for this information op and all contributors. I’ve been vaping since last couple of years and now wanted to try my hands on mech mod.
    I’ve a question though- I can see the resistance of my coils, I know the mAh of the battery I’m using. But how would I know that the setup that I am using is safe to vape?
    Eg. I’ve a sony vtc6 20A 18650 battery and my tanks reads .34 ohm of resistance. Per ohm’s law It gives me voltage of 6.8 v and power of 136 watts. Which in my understanding is way more than safe. Could anyone pls explain this to me?


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  6. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor

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    It never is safe. But instead there's something we call "relative safety". As for Ohm's law, those 20A are not what you'll get if vaping at .34 ohms. Instead, for a single battery mech mod you need to take the highest voltage the battery can deliver (usually that will be 4.2 volts). Next, you need to divide that by your resistance (.34 ohms in the example you gave). The end result in this particular example is only 12.35A, not 20A. The CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate) of the VTC6 is 15A. So the reason why you will be "relatively safe" is because 12.35A is below those 15A... that is, as far as the specific part of battery safety guidelines that addresses the coil resistance on a mech goes.

    It gets more complicated than this after you also factor in other things like the voltage sag of the battery and the voltage drop caused by the mech mod. It means the coils in your tank are not truly getting 4.2 volts from a fully charged battery, but rather, it will be much less than that. But to vapers who are new to mech mods it is generally recommended to start by keeping it simple, to avoid any confusion when dealing with safety, and to gradually familiarize yourself with all the proper safety aspects, one small step at a time, as you venture into the world of using mech mods.

    The VTC6 can in fact sustain 20A, but it can NOT sustain 20A continuous, as it will eventually overheat to dangerously high temperatures if using it at 20A continuous. What that means is, you could decide to vape on it at 20A (and actually even higher than that), but only if you are aware of the fact that you need to watch out with the battery temperature by letting the battery cool down for reasonable periods of time between hits, and also you are aware of the fact that, if the fire button gets accidentally pressed for a long period of time at 20A you risk venting the battery. I.e., know the risks─and know them extraordinarily well─before you even think about choosing to accept these risks.

    To get a handle on how fast the battery heats up (and cools back down again), you can pull the battery out of the mod after every couple of hits, and feel how warm the battery gets. The whole idea about that is to teach yourself to know perfectly well when it's time to let the battery rest. How fast the battery will build up heat inside your mech mod will not only depend on the ohms versus the battery make and model, but also it will depend on, among other things, your vaping style: the duration of each individual hit, and the wait time between consecutive hits (i.e. the specific usage pattern of so-called "duty cycles").

    Finally, if you haven't already discovered this, then I highly recommend that you follow this:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCePHh3NMvu3rW2LFJeOWo-Q
     
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  7. Puneet Sharma

    Puneet Sharma Member For 2 Years

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    Thank you much for taking time and answering my questions
    Here’s what I got tonight when I reached home after work

    [​IMG]

    Its a clone vGod mod that I ordered off eBay. I didn’t like the vgod rda that came along so I’m using my limitless plus. Will keep your instructions and suggestions in mind while using it.
    I’m also watching mooch’s video and it’s really very informative.
    Will keep you all posted about my mech mod adventure journey


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  8. Rossum

    Rossum Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Much less? Much much less? That's the question, and it's actually surprisingly difficult to answer, especially with a tank. One could use an in-line 510 volt meter, but that adds two extra points of contact and some additional resistance itself. With an RDA, it's much easier. Pull the cap off an use a volt meter on the posts of the atty.

    In any case, I would say "Somewhat less" rather than "Much less", and I agree, 4.2V is the number that should be used for these calculations.
     
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  9. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor

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    The voltage sag you'll get from the hardest hitting 18650 battery commercially available on the planet today if you vape at the CDR of this same battery, combined with the voltage drop you'll get from your preferred unobtanium tube mech, will be about ½ volt, i.e. about 12 percent at least. So no. Not somewhat less. Not in any case excepting in your imagination.
     
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  10. Puneet Sharma

    Puneet Sharma Member For 2 Years

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    So I pulled out the battery after one drag, couple of drags and after several (3-5) drags to check how the battery is heating up. And I found that it’s not heating up at all. Is it ok? Does it mean that I can take 4-5 drags (which is my usual pattern) and let it sit for some time to cool down?

    I also noticed that I am not getting as warm drags as I used to get from my Vfeng or rx200 with same tank same air flow at around 65 -70 watts. What could be the reason behind that?


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  11. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor

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    Well now you know why I chain vape like a madman at .11 ohms on a single VTC5A. lol :) Some people just love being so totally paranoid is all... but for reasons that are obvious, aside from a dead short you still need to make perfectly sure to always avoid accidental button presses and a stuck button, which is why you can't recommend going that low in ohms to anyone especially those who are new to the mech, as it only takes one headless chicken to hit the news again and ruin all the fun.
     
  12. Puneet Sharma

    Puneet Sharma Member For 2 Years

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    I’m still in doubt about the flavor. I’ve heard that the mechs are best for vapor and flavor (coil setup counts too). But on my vgod I’m not getting much of the flavor. Whereas same tank on my rx200 gives me a flavorful vape. Any thoughts on this??


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  13. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor

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    Sell your tanks and grab yourself a decent RDA... what also works for me to improve the flavor on a regulated mod is ArcticFox─specifically, the power curves feature in it (and of course the usual factors like the coil build, the wicks, the airflow, and juice). Especially with bigger, power hungry coil builds I found that the mod itself can also make a significant difference, which is the first thing I noticed when I moved from my RX2/3 to my RX300 about a year ago, albeit these days anything that isn't a mech barely gets used anymore. As for those .11 alien builds. Their flavor truly is excellent. I vape on them pretty much every day now, but I still switch to different builds fairly often... just not on a single battery mech. On a single battery, SS316L kills flavor for me due to having too slow ramp up. (Same exact reason why, with those bigger builds, I use a power curve or series mech or paraseries mech.) I like a warm vape from time to time. Only problem, with the vast majority of fruity juices, that I also like─and like them a lot, warm vape simply doesn't work. Warm vape without much ramp up on a single battery can work for some, but for me it just doesn't.
     
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  14. Puneet Sharma

    Puneet Sharma Member For 2 Years

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    Although I don’t like the RDAs much as I don’t like the inconvenience of carrying the juice bottle with me everywhere. I’ll surely give it a try - any recommendations?


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  15. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor

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    At times when you can't drip constantly, you could grab yourself a squonker. My favorite single coil RDAs are the 24mm and 30mm Deathwish Modz Deathtrap... and they come with a squonk pin already included. For dual coil it just depends... the Purge Mods Head Shot and the Carnage, the Kennedy 24 and 25, the Scoundrels Genießen "The Tornados", the BJ Box Mods Culverin, the Vaperz Cloud Mini Buddha 2 and the Buddha V4, the 24mm and 30mm Vapergate Mason V2 as well as the 24mm and 30mm postless decks that are compatible with both the regular Mason RDAs and the Gemini Series II RDAs, the 24mm 528 Custom Vapes Goon and the 1.5 (only after you put on a Kennedy/Goon style acrylic drip tip by Half Moon Mods LLC), the Hellvape Dead Rabbit, and the Wotofo The Troll RDA 2. Just to name some.
     
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  16. fraleywp

    fraleywp Silver Contributor

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    This is why I prefer RDTAs. The flavor of an RDA with the convenience of a tank. I suppose the same could be said for a Squonk, but I already have enough mods at the moment.
     
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  17. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor

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    Well if RDTAs gave the flavor of an RDA, then the manufacturers would simply stop making RDAs... there's no such thing as a free lunch.
     
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  18. jives21

    jives21 Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    1zlb04x.jpg qqu42q.jpg FOR ALL THE NOOBS. DON'T BE A MORON!
     
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