Temperature control devices/attys/builds

[Panther1911]

I am thinking about getting a temp control device and some nickel wire. I am also thinking about getting a dedicated RDA for the nickel build.

For this mod I want an authentic chip, as of now leaning towards the evolv dna40 chip, I also think I might prefer an authentic mod. I am thinking a vaporshark rDNA40. At first I was thinking of a hana mods dual 18650 mod, but I like the size of the vapor shark better, and since it is easy to swap batteries, I guess I would rather carry a spare and have the smaller mod.


For those of you that have them:
-would you recommend it to others/do you like it?
-what is your set up like? (mod and atty) and Do you like it?
-what are your favorite build specs for the above attys?

What RDA do you think would work best?
What RTA?

Is there really a need for more than 40W on a nickle build?


Part of me wants to get one relatively soon. The other part of me wants to wait for the next wave of devices to see what the next step is. I know its near impossibly to keep up with the "next big thing" in vaping. So I want to get something that will keep my happy for a long time.

 

[Whiskey]

Moved to rebuildables

 

[Bow2King]

i personally love mine!! the only thing I've been able to use so far as temperature control is the VS aspire bvc coils that they sell because I'm waiting on some vapemail that i just ordered some ni200 and a sub tank mini!!

 

[Panther1911]

thanks for your input!

how do the BVC temp coils compare to regular ones as far as performance?

 

[Bow2King]

performance wise great!! but it makes the juices taste so much better, i also have an atlantis and I'm just waiting on some nicel wire so i can try and rebuild the coils in them!! but i would def recommend a VS, thats my personal experience i was also coming from an mvp2

 

[350ZMO]

I am thinking about getting a temp control device and some nickel wire. I am also thinking about getting a dedicated RDA for the nickel build.

For this mod I want an authentic chip, as of now leaning towards the evolv dna40 chip, I also think I might prefer an authentic mod. I am thinking a vaporshark rDNA40. At first I was thinking of a hana mods dual 18650 mod, but I like the size of the vapor shark better, and since it is easy to swap batteries, I guess I would rather carry a spare and have the smaller mod.


For those of you that have them:
-would you recommend it to others/do you like it?
-what is your set up like? (mod and atty) and Do you like it?
-what are your favorite build specs for the above attys?

What RDA do you think would work best?
What RTA?

Is there really a need for more than 40W on a nickle build?


Part of me wants to get one relatively soon. The other part of me wants to wait for the next wave of devices to see what the next step is. I know its near impossibly to keep up with the "next big thing" in vaping. So I want to get something that will keep my happy for a long time.

-Definitely recommend to all. I have given away my Vamos, EVIC-s, SX350 DIY mods, ACE, now have four DNA40s.
-4 DNA-40's and a dozen different attys and yes I like them. They all have their + and -
-That is specific to the atty but in general use spaced non-touching (just a little gap maybe width of wire) whose coil length is no more than 2 X the coil diameter and try to keep the entire coil size with the constraint of the airhole size maybe 1.5 over. Also depends on juice hole size. What you want is maximum surface area in contact with wick with little openings for the vapor to release that stays juicy all the time.

I don't like dripping all the time. I can barely tolerate RTAs with small tanks.

I have builds that provide literally gagging amounts of vapor at 24W, literally more vapor than my body can handle. Made a 40W build on a BIG Fogger once and I can't really tell you why I did it, just cause I could I suppose.

From other venues there have been lots of posters with problems with the vapor flask and hana. I've seen only one with the XPV40 and one with the rDNA vaporshark.

There are several good RTAs, it's hard to pick my favorite, they all have plus and minuses.

Do you like a warm or cool vape?
Do like clouds or flavor?
Can you wind tiny coils?
Do you mind fiddling with wicking to get outstanding performance or do you want something that no matter what you throw on it, it just works IE narrow or wide performance band?

 

[Panther1911]

Thank you for your response

Do you like a warm or cool vape? - medium...maybe a tad on the warmer side
Do like clouds or flavor? -flavor, but clouds are a plus
Can you wind tiny coils? smallest i have tried are 30ga coils for a protank head....moderate sucess
Do you mind fiddling with wicking to get outstanding performance or do you want something that no matter what you throw on it, it just works IE narrow or wide performance band? - kind of both, id like to have RDA that is wide range, and maybe another or 2 that i can fine tune

 

[350ZMO]

You might take a look at the silverplay and Lemo. The silverplay has an airflow control ring that opens up 4 air holes on or around the build deck, then rotate and close off two. So you can play with clouds and flavor chasing. It also purportedly can take the Kayfun quartz kits to increase capacity and top fill cap.

The Lemo has a single massive 3mm air hole and coil in a Kayfun/Erlkonigin style and wicks really well. Wicks better than the KF V3.1 which is just outstanding for flavor but won't sustain as much power. Which is similar to the KF V4 but the spring in the bottom that connects the 510 center post to the build deck can be finicky with Ni200 or low resistance builds. So I would say the Lemo is a happy medium. Single raised coil, not as dense as smaller air hole attys like the KF but still great flavor.

The Erlkonigin has great flavor but not as good as my KFs. Is easy to build, cheap, holds a decent amount of liquid.

The Goblin holds very little juice but can sustain a lot of power purportedly giving many drippers a run for their money. It has a build deck similar to orchid but has 2 massive 3mm air holes and massive juice channels. kind of like a dual Lemo but with a build deck that can be a little finicky. Lots of clouds.

While I don't have one, I hear good things about the Kanger subtank has great flavor as well but a small build if you use the rebuildable cartridge and I while the vapor production is great, not a cloud chaser but close. Not prone to flooding or leaking with Kanger coil cartridges. Not sure about the rebuildable cartridge but I'd say could be finicky to get it just right - on the verge of flooding for max juice flow but not flooding.

There are three primary types of decks I have seen. 1)The first is air hole over juice hole (Kayfun/Lemo/Erl). 2)The second is air hole at same level as juice hole (silverplay/orchid/fogger). 3)The third is air hole below juice hole (Rose/flash/Kaiser).

1) these are easy to build and not as prone to floods and leaks. Wide performance band.
2) Takes fiddling with wicking to prevent floods and leaks. Medium performance band.
3) Takes even more fiddling but the phenominal juice flow can be worth it. Very narrow performance band.

I am waiting on a V6 fogger to add to my yiloong collection of fogers and kaisers. Yiloong has made huge changes on the V6. They found themselves outpaced suddenly with the Lemo and Orchid. The V6 has larger dual 2mm air holes, a build area like the Goblin or Orchid, a detent air flow control ring, top fill and holds gobs of juice. But it will be finicky to wick like the Orchid.

I'm looking at the flash and the delta II as well. I find the flash highly interesting.

You can look at the parts of any atty and have a good idea of what it is going to do. I'll try to explain...

Power == Vapor Volume
Taste == Temperature

Understand that power determines the amount of e-Liquid converted to vapor (and warmed air). The amount of power that an atty can sustain (I'll explain later) depends on how much e-Liquid it can flow and the surface area of heating element while not flooding or leaking. Given the same sustained power, the density of the vapor is determined by the amount of air flow. Add in more air and the ratio of vaporized e-Liquid to air is higher but you'll get a larger cloud and cooler. Add in less air and the ratio of vaporized e-Liquid to air will be higher and you will get more flavor and warmer.

There are ways to cool down the vape like with a long SS drip tip but the primary component of cool or warm is determined by the temperature of the coil which relates to the temperature of the vapor.

When I say sustain I mean the DNA-40 temperature protect does not kick in but gets close to the set temperature through the entire length of my draw including successive chain vape draws. While power is delivered to the coil, heat builds up and temperature rises. The air flowing over the coil has a cooling affect but the amount of juice flow is an important determining factor. It is a matter of mass flow. More mass needs more energy.

So lets say you set the temperature protect limit on the DNA-40 to the temperature you like and after fiddling with the build to get max juice and airflow and surface area it sustains 24W on your atty. Then you try another atty with bigger air holes and after the same fiddling it also sustains 24W. The density of vaporized e-liquid in air will be higher with the first atty IE more flavor. And you will get more vapor ie less dense with the later.

As I have found from experience, use spaced non-touching (just a little gap maybe width of wire) whose coil length is no more than 2 X the coil diameter and try to keep the entire coil size within the constraints of the airhole, maybe 1.5 over. Also depends on juice hole size. What you want is maximum surface area in contact with wick with little openings for the vapor to release that stays juicy all the time.

I forgot to ask but if you like a very airy draw (non-restrictive) then stick with the larger air hole attys.

 

[Panther1911]

Thank you for taking the time to write all that!

I currently have several of the tanks you mentioned.
-Lemo
-Erlkonigin
-Orchid v2
-Several Kayfuns
-Kayfun v4
-subtank mini

how ever a bunch of them are currently for sale ( I am keeping the Lemo, subtank mini, and a kayfun 3.1)

For some reason I struggle with wicking, I either wick it so i wake up to a puddle of juice on my dresser/sucking up a mouth full of hot juice or bad dry hits, to the point that i have to turn it down so low that its not enjoyable to vape. I did OK with the orchid though, but I found the capacity to be lacking, to the point were I couldn't take it anywhere with out running out of juice and dealing with a messy fill. I was limited to using it ant home, and I found my self dripping more often.

I like fairly Airy draws.

I like that on the kayfun v4 that the deck can be accessed with out emptying the tank. and If I run into a situation where it leaks I can shut the juice flow off.

Everything changed when I got the subtank mini. I have the option to use a RBA deck or factory coils with out having to emptying the tank and be able to switch to a factory coil with out having to switch a top cap or chimney. The tank also performs very well and great airflow with factory coils. It made me want to sell most other RTAs. Kanger has also announced a ni200 OCC coil for the subtank.

You drip much on the DAN40?

 

[350ZMO]

All good attys. Do you have the quartz tank and top fill cap for your 3.1?

No I got rid of my drippers before the 40 came out. I cant stand to drip. Tank all the way for me. Been eyeing the wolverine a little -19ML capacity. Now were talkin!

 

[Panther1911]

I do have a top fill but no quartz kit

 

[Bow2King]

hey guys found this video pretty good info for all of us temperature control problems or whatever!!