Just now getting it running, but this is the tightest build deck I've ever seen. 2mm coils tops. That's not necessarily a deal killer, but just know that you will not get bigger than 2mm coils in here.Interested to see what you think of the RBA?
I'm not sure what you mean by this.The stock tank and coil are the only ones that will ground through the base of the atomizer or coil.
I will post some pics when I get home shortly.I'm not sure what you mean by this.
Right, but to be honest I didn't think the outer ring actually grounds it on this device though. I have lots of RBAs and devices that use that design and they all have an extra pin contacting that outer ring. I thought on this one the outer ring is suspended. I'll have to look a bit closer because it might negate what I think is the solution I think I found to the open circuit issue.The bases have a grounding point on them where as the Boros and such don't.
The thing is, the problem's not with the mod. It's this tank/boro/rba.Man I've seen a lot of these come out purchased and never heard of these issues. Have you thought of a return. If it was brand new and it took and hour and a half to get it to fire I'd definitely send it back, not figure out work around for it. Like buying a squonk new and the 510 instantly leaks. I'd have it replaced. Let the vendor figure out the issues and send you one that works like all the others that have no issues. Just my opinion.
I didn't find anything either.Man I've seen a lot of these come out purchased and never heard of these issues.
It's not the o-ring.Without the or-ring I can barely get it to close. Tried both the included Supbox boro with the RBA, and another Boro from my BB stuff with the Brig'd RBA in it. Same result. "Check Atomizer."
That is a thought. Yes, I did notice that both the onboard 510 +pin and the adapter pin for using boro tanks is also spring loaded. I think? Maybe it's just the onboard one. I haven't had this very long yet. The adapter has long threads and it engages the onboard pin before being fully tightened. That IS a thought.Out of curiosity if you don't screw the adapter pin in the bottom all the way down. Maybe a turn and a half does that make a difference. The bottom pin is spring loaded. I don't know just throwing ideas out there.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
Right I knew what you meant. Or you could just tighten it until it meets the onboard pin and give it a little more.I should clarify that a turn and a half from the bottom not just a turn and a half down.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
The up and down buttons are recessed enough they won't be an issue. The plastic does look like derlin but it's hard to tell. The display is recessed behind the SS bottom plate. Then there is a really small lip of plastic the protrudes down but I would imagine it wear down to the point the mod would be sitting on the SS bottom plate. If you want to preserve the serial number some heavy clear packing tape over the bottom would be in order.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
The 3F site says it's made of ABS The body seems pretty thick and has the metal bottom plate for reinforcement on that end. The very thick cage and the metal cap and contact plate provide reinforcement on the top.Ok, So I have a question.
And I know its early in ownership, but I feel any molded plastic can be gauged in how it will stand up with 3 days of table wear.
Some molded plastics are hard, and you know it will stand up to table rash, and also know that it wont survive a small fall on hard surfaces.
My question is... how pliable or rigid is the plastic they chose?
It looks like Delrin, but I am almost sure its not.
Reason being is the placement of the screen on the bottom... and over time, table rash may bring that lil bit of shelf to a level where it wouldn't protect the buttons or the stainless faceplate.
Similar to my BB... I always run a piece of tape on the bottom, its the weak point and the point that gets the most wear besides the firing button.
I am sure Ill have more questions... about fit and responsiveness after you all have had it for a month or two, three. For I feel that is where China and their buttons tend to go south, or at least in my experience.
Be rad, be safe, wear a mask!
What do you guys drag your mods around behind a bicycle or somethingThat lip won't last long. I will clear tape both of mine. I may cut out around the buttons if the tape hinders pushing them.
Bycycle?? I'm almost to old for a bicycle anymore lol. I'm thinking motorized scooter.What do you guys drag your mods around behind a bicycle or something?
Why wouldn't that lip last? Serious question. ABS is not brittle.
What do you guys drag your mods around behind a bicycle or something
Why wouldn't that lip last? Serious question. ABS is not brittle.
I haven't tried it yet. The base of the Xeta is snug in everything. The authentic too and even in authentic boros.Love the concept of this tank but the xeta will not fit it at all. The exocet v2 will go in but the chimney will pull out very easily when removing the figure 8 piece and drip tip. So be careful if you get one of these. Haven't tried changing the o-rings yet. Maybe when I need to add juice.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
So far I am loving the exocet v2. Having a real hard time figuring out which I like best between the exocet v2, the vape snail and the haiku xeta. They are all great.I haven't tried it yet. The base of the Xeta is snug in everything. The authentic too and even in authentic boros.
How is the Exocet V2? Mine came today.
I have an og Exocet and really like it for rdtl, but I've been using my Billets for mtl.So far I am loving the exocet v2. Having a real hard time figuring out which I like best between the exocet v2, the vape snail and the haiku xeta. They are all great.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
That's a good buy
Indeed it is. That's a lot less than I paid for mine.That's a good buy
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk