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Squonkers are Bonkers
- Thread starter DogMan
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If its just the USB plug, buy a new USB plug and solder it in
Looks to be 3 locking tabs ( near the B- B+ area ) Heck I've had the USB metal housing fall out of my Vt133 I tossed it back in...but that was only the sleeve portion, not the actual connection.
As mentioned, you could see if Evolv would tackle a replacement on a custom mod...worst they say is no.
Additionally... 75 boards are fairly cheap...if you're handy with a soldering iron... but yeah, don't sell it.
I'm just getting my feet wet with soldering and not quite that confident with my skill. I found a gentleman that does mod repair named Justin Stemmler and he's going to try and replace the USB first, but if not he's going to replace the board bc he has one on hand. Should work out nicely
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Well the message through Paypal to fasttech worked. I got a response from them. Now they want a video of me trying to screw in the squonk pin. Yeah kinda thought the pictures wouldn’t do them any good.
Carpe Nidor
Be prepared for the 2 month ticket exchanging and delay tactics...but you will get what you want in the end if you don't cancel the dispute.
It's been updated to today. I'd like to point out once again that your freakin awesome! I wanted to get you something in return since ur birthday is so close to mine but my first attempt was a black cap that you got from brew and my second attempt was the BB set. What do you get a guy that has everything already?
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I’ve got some dried Carolina reapers
Tempted to grab one of those Furyan mods for my beater. At least then I don’t have to always carry my HEIL SATAN! mod
Edit: also, San Antonio has been cool as fuck
It's been updated to today. I'd like to point out once again that your freakin awesome! I wanted to get you something in return since ur birthday is so close to mine but my first attempt was a black cap that you got from brew and my second attempt was the BB set. What do you get a guy that has everything already?
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I wish I had everything I lusted over...be a lot of ladies around
Truly all good though...don't have to get me anything. Plus, consider yourself the beta tester for the rest of us on that RSA
It’s all good. I may just order the yftk version while I wait on this one.
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Will do . Go for the same. I wouldn't mind I'm in the uk so not much chance of us bumping into each other
Come on @jasonandsarah you're killing us ( me ) on how the Wismec Tobhino is
Sorry today's been a really bad dayCome on @jasonandsarah you're killing us ( me ) on how the Wismec Tobhino is
I just started using it and my first thoughts are it's really good. Needs a single coil afc cap imo but it's got good flavor and decent af with 1 hole open on both sides. Butt like I said before if it had a single af cap it'd be even better because the one on the other side adds to the air but takes away from the flavor imo. I tried it full open with my finger over the back side and it was a great vape! Plus if you had a single and turned it down to one hole it'd be butt hole tight (mtl) capable. (On second thought maybe not mtl tight, I tried it) This could also possibly be remedied by using a bigger coil or longer legs. So your coil was more centered. I think it's be a better vape using the first option though.
Pics after I moved it a little more centered but to be fair this coil does seem to have a small inside diameter.
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It also looks pretty sweet on this cloak! Thanks @So619Cal, you gave me a little bright spot on a really gloomy day.
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Sweet I am glad you like it... Looks like it can benefit from 3.5+ coils to help reduce some af.
Dang that's a nice looking cloak
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I announced being a new to me Orca owner...Now I can add a 67mods NEO squonker to that list.
I've been looking at cheap squonkers and buying some to see how upgradeable they can be but I've worked hard and I'll get 3 paychecks for the month of May instead of two so, why not
Now I want an authentic Hadaly at a good price ...any leads?
I've been looking at cheap squonkers and buying some to see how upgradeable they can be but I've worked hard and I'll get 3 paychecks for the month of May instead of two so, why not
Now I want an authentic Hadaly at a good price ...any leads?
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Thanks! Had this awhile and I didn't even need a list to get it. Xjay hooked me up(well I paid full $)Sweet I am glad you like it... Looks like it can benefit from 3.5+ coils to help reduce some af.
Dang that's a nice looking cloak
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Look upII announce being a new to me Orca owner...Now I can add a 67mods NEO squonker to that list.
I've been looking at cheap squonkers and buying some to see how upgradeable they can be but I've worked hard and I'll get 3 paychecks for the month of May instead of two so, why not
Now I want an authentic Hadaly at a good price ...any leads?
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II announce being a new to me Orca owner...Now I can add a 67mods NEO squonker to that list.
I've been looking at cheap squonkers and buying some to see how upgradeable they can be but I've worked hard and I'll get 3 paychecks for the month of May instead of two so, why not
Now I want an authentic Hadaly at a good price ...any leads?
@Le Furet
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"Look up. Waaaay Up." (name that show ;-)
I'm going to piss some people off by getting off squonkers and posting something about billet boxes,but I don't care.For all of you that are bonkers for billet boxes,Fasttech and a couple of other China sites have pre orders for the YFTK clones.They say they are Evolv DNA60s.No info on what comes with as far as bridges or accessories.Available in black,silver,or orange.Just a hair under $100.Discuss among yourselves.Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10011697/9648654-yftk-bb-style-60w-all-in-one-box-mod-kit
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10011697/9648654-yftk-bb-style-60w-all-in-one-box-mod-kit
Le Furet, pm him. Posted earlier today about selling oneI announced being a new to me Orca owner...Now I can add a 67mods NEO squonker to that list.
I've been looking at cheap squonkers and buying some to see how upgradeable they can be but I've worked hard and I'll get 3 paychecks for the month of May instead of two so, why not
Now I want an authentic Hadaly at a good price ...any leads?
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I'll see what shipping will cost...appears to be from overseas...I was hoping for $50-60 range shipped from US if at all possible but I'll talk to him...Vapetrader had one listed for $60...the same package with different caps etc...but it's sold.
JuicyLucy
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The Ferret is still in the US - and $60 would be very cheap for a real one, especially if it has caps
Pretty sure he's in US. I just got an Entheon from him
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He's not overseas....yet. I think he had one of those fancy caps for it, it may be a bit more though.
Ive seen the word "mate" used in his posts so i suppose i was assuming from overseas.
Ad I saw on Vapetrader with 3 caps ..would've picked it up if it wasn't sold..lol.
He's a dirty Northern Californian...heck, pretty much every other member here in California is a dirty northerner compared to where I live in Cali lol
Yup red marker top right is me! lol
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Your back a little wet?
Oi mate, I live in NC. What's your point?
2x26/40 fused clapton, 6/5 wrap, 3mm, .34Ω and super tight rayon wick.
Thank you, I have a 2x28/38 nichrome, 4/5 wraps, 3mm, 0.40 with Cotton Bacon v2. I'm not really feeling the love for it. Air open about 1/3.....I like the O16 better so far.Oi mate, I live in NC. What's your point?
2x26/40 fused clapton, 6/5 wrap, 3mm, .34Ω and super tight rayon wick.
Countrypami
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I can finally become an official member
Check out this beauty that arrived today from Aspire! Let me tell you, I'm not normally a blue fan... but THIS IS GORGEOUS!!
It's a metallic cobalt blue. I did my best to capture it in the pic, but the pic just doesn't do it justice.
And it's my first Squonker!!
Check out this beauty that arrived today from Aspire! Let me tell you, I'm not normally a blue fan... but THIS IS GORGEOUS!!
It's a metallic cobalt blue. I did my best to capture it in the pic, but the pic just doesn't do it justice.And it's my first Squonker!!
Congratulations and welcome to the bonker side!I can finally become an official member
Check out this beauty that arrived today from Aspire! Let me tell you, I'm not normally a blue fan... but THIS IS GORGEOUS!!
And it's my first Squonker!!
View attachment 110331
Countrypami
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JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
VU Donator
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I can finally become an official member
Check out this beauty that arrived today from Aspire! Let me tell you, I'm not normally a blue fan... but THIS IS GORGEOUS!!
And it's my first Squonker!!
View attachment 110331
That whole series are really eye catching -
The Wasp that is coming out looks like it will also be stunning
I recently sold an unused ufo cap for the pocket d/s for $35... bam! 2 more picos incoming. That gives me 5 backups for my bling sleeves because if the picos die, the bling must endure.
Mwhahaha..
Ok, two things:
1. I position my coil where I can see the bottom 1/3 through the air slot. I run my air wide open, same with the haku. So to me, the krma seems a bit restricted at wide open.
2. If after a few days/builds, you decide it's not to your liking. Well, if no other bonker who doesn't have one yet wants it... I will be happy to take it off your hands. In other words, you're not stuck with it because if nobody else wants it, I'll be happy to buy it from you.
Mwhahaha..
Ok, two things:
1. I position my coil where I can see the bottom 1/3 through the air slot. I run my air wide open, same with the haku. So to me, the krma seems a bit restricted at wide open.
2. If after a few days/builds, you decide it's not to your liking. Well, if no other bonker who doesn't have one yet wants it... I will be happy to take it off your hands. In other words, you're not stuck with it because if nobody else wants it, I'll be happy to buy it from you.
Countrypami
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I positioned the coil about the same way as you did. I will try a couple more different coils......we will see.I recently sold an unused ufo cap for the pocket d/s for $35... bam! 2 more picos incoming. That gives me 5 backups for my bling sleeves because if the picos die, the bling must endure.
Mwhahaha..
Ok, two things:
1. I position my coil where I can see the bottom 1/3 through the air slot. I run my air wide open, same with the haku. So to me, the krma seems a bit restricted at wide open.
2. If after a few days/builds, you decide it's not to your liking. Well, if no other bonker who doesn't have one yet wants it... I will be happy to take it off your hands. In other words, you're not stuck with it because if nobody else wants it, I'll be happy to buy it from you.
Soldering is like brazing, the brass or flux tends to follow the heat. The tricky part of either lies in using just the right amount of brass or flux. Too much and you get ugly globs, too little and the weld does not take. It is not always a matter of having loads of skill.
Sometimes the best thing you can do is not think, not wonder, not
imagine, not obsess. Just breathe, and have faith everything will work out for the best.
imagine, not obsess. Just breathe, and have faith everything will work out for the best.
Oooh, Aaaah, ...
That I could spend over $200 for one unit/batch of vaping gear in one shot, it might be that I would. That looks very sharp.
I have to say though, it's a bit unfair to compare the krma to the O-16 from a flavor standpoint. A 16mm single air flow vs 22mm daf. I've never tried the O-16 but imagine the flavor would be intense.
You have a valid point. I just put a staged 2x28/38 fused clapton 6/7 wraps, 3mm ID staged with 28g, comes out to 0.37 ohms. I went with the premise the first coil wasn't wide enough and just the fused clapton was reading around .57 ohms or so. The vape is better, but the flavor is still a bit diminished. Probably just my taste buds being spoiled by the SS and O16
. I'll try it again in the morning.
You have a valid point. I just put a staged 2x28/38 fused clapton 6/7 wraps, 3mm ID staged with 28g, comes out to 0.37 ohms. I went with the premise the first coil wasn't wide enough and just the fused clapton was reading around .57 ohms or so. The vape is better, but the flavor is still a bit diminished. Probably just my taste buds being spoiled by the SS and O16
Perhaps I should consider an O-16 to see what all the fuss is about. As for the krma, one thing I'd add is the airflow is stepped down but actually comes in at the coils on a bit of a horizontal angle. I always take extra care - using a repurposed dental pick -to make sure the wick is pulled back from the inner air channels so it can work it's magick.
As for comparisons, put the same build and flavor in the krma vs phenom. At the least, they'd be competing in the same weight class.
cheers
Great idea! I'll do that in the next few days. As for the O16, I'd say definitely give it a try! Worst case, we can swap atties
Per request:
I received my Driptech DS clone today, and tore it down to compare the button of both DS clones and my Authentic TS.
The white lettering DS clone are very far off the mark. The spring in the switch is very lightweight, and small in diameter. It's held in place by a smaller screw, too. Additionally, this clone has no rounding to any edges. It uses a smaller bottle with a hybrid plastic tube/metal straw, but the bottle is silicone. The contact surfaces in the base are anodized and require some light sanding to allow for adequate contact. There are precious few o-rings used in the single plate upper contact housing (which is held in place by 2 screws instead of 4) and, as a result, when I disassembled it, there was juice everywhere (none on the batteries, though). The 510 is only spring-loaded by virtue of a large rubber grommet. The negative contacts are smaller, and the bottle door has fine threads (about 12 turns to remove vs 4 on the authentic).
Overall, I would give this clone a pass.
The engraved DS clone is VERY close to the authentic TS internally (number of batteries notwithstanding). In fact, the only significant differences I could find involve a different color of o-ring (black instead of red) in use throughout, a different size hex head used in the top screws, and a silver (stainless) spring in place of the gold (plated?) spring. The buttons look to be interchangeable (but I did not make the attempt). The engraving of Defiant Designs is much deeper/chunkier on the clone, but the typeface is the same. The Driptech engraving is too close to call. Thr 510 is spring-loaded in the same fashion on both. The bevels/chamfers are all nice. The correct number of screws are used throughout. The bottom plate makes good contact out of the box. The negative contacts and bottle cover look, also, to be interchangeable.
If I didn't knkw it was a clone, could overlook the color of the internal o-rings and the differently sized hex head (just the head... I think the screw portion is the same) screws, and deeper Defiant Design engraving, I might be fooled into thinking it was authentic.
Note that there have been several reports of this model of clone going into autofire and melting the button. I'm at a loss as to how that could happen as the switches (aside from the composition of the spring) appear to be identical. Nevertheless, I'll be detaching my atty for a while when I leave it unattended.
I did not attempt to remove the button cup on the authentic or the new clone. I could not remove it on the white letter version.
Did I miss anything?
ETA: The bottle on the new clone is compatible with the authentic but VERY stiff.
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I received my Driptech DS clone today, and tore it down to compare the button of both DS clones and my Authentic TS.
The white lettering DS clone are very far off the mark. The spring in the switch is very lightweight, and small in diameter. It's held in place by a smaller screw, too. Additionally, this clone has no rounding to any edges. It uses a smaller bottle with a hybrid plastic tube/metal straw, but the bottle is silicone. The contact surfaces in the base are anodized and require some light sanding to allow for adequate contact. There are precious few o-rings used in the single plate upper contact housing (which is held in place by 2 screws instead of 4) and, as a result, when I disassembled it, there was juice everywhere (none on the batteries, though). The 510 is only spring-loaded by virtue of a large rubber grommet. The negative contacts are smaller, and the bottle door has fine threads (about 12 turns to remove vs 4 on the authentic).
Overall, I would give this clone a pass.
The engraved DS clone is VERY close to the authentic TS internally (number of batteries notwithstanding). In fact, the only significant differences I could find involve a different color of o-ring (black instead of red) in use throughout, a different size hex head used in the top screws, and a silver (stainless) spring in place of the gold (plated?) spring. The buttons look to be interchangeable (but I did not make the attempt). The engraving of Defiant Designs is much deeper/chunkier on the clone, but the typeface is the same. The Driptech engraving is too close to call. Thr 510 is spring-loaded in the same fashion on both. The bevels/chamfers are all nice. The correct number of screws are used throughout. The bottom plate makes good contact out of the box. The negative contacts and bottle cover look, also, to be interchangeable.
If I didn't knkw it was a clone, could overlook the color of the internal o-rings and the differently sized hex head (just the head... I think the screw portion is the same) screws, and deeper Defiant Design engraving, I might be fooled into thinking it was authentic.
Note that there have been several reports of this model of clone going into autofire and melting the button. I'm at a loss as to how that could happen as the switches (aside from the composition of the spring) appear to be identical. Nevertheless, I'll be detaching my atty for a while when I leave it unattended.
I did not attempt to remove the button cup on the authentic or the new clone. I could not remove it on the white letter version.
Did I miss anything?
ETA: The bottle on the new clone is compatible with the authentic but VERY stiff.
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How does your engraved clone perform?I bought one and it worked great to start,but later that night it dropped off big time.I thought the batteries were getting low,but when I put them on the charger they were at 3.9 volts.Anyway,I have heard that the engraved clone uses cheap plastic for the button and surround and they melt,which can cause the autofire issue.I believe the manufacturer says not to run below 0.3 ohms on them.Per request:
I received my Driptech DS clone today, and tore it down to compare the button of both DS clones and my Authentic TS.
The white lettering DS clone are very far off the mark. The spring in the switch is very lightweight, and small in diameter. It's held in place by a smaller screw, too. Additionally, this clone has no rounding to any edges. It uses a smaller bottle with a hybrid plastic tube/metal straw, but the bottle is silicone. The contact surfaces in the base are anodized and require some light sanding to allow for adequate contact. There are precious few o-rings used in the single plate upper contact housing (which is held in place by 2 screws instead of 4) and, as a result, when I disassembled it, there was juice everywhere (none on the batteries, though). The 510 is only spring-loaded by virtue of a large rubber grommet. The negative contacts are smaller, and the bottle door has fine threads (about 12 turns to remove vs 4 on the authentic).
Overall, I would give this clone a pass.
The engraved DS clone is VERY close to the authentic TS internally (number of batteries notwithstanding). In fact, the only significant differences I could find involve a different color of o-ring (black instead of red) in use throughout, a different size hex head used in the top screws, and a silver (stainless) spring in place of the gold (plated?) spring. The buttons look to be interchangeable (but I did not make the attempt). The engraving of Defiant Designs is much deeper/chunkier on the clone, but the typeface is the same. The Driptech engraving is too close to call. Thr 510 is spring-loaded in the same fashion on both. The bevels/chamfers are all nice. The correct number of screws are used throughout. The bottom plate makes good contact out of the box. The negative contacts and bottle cover look, also, to be interchangeable.
If I didn't knkw it was a clone, could overlook the color of the internal o-rings and the differently sized hex head (just the head... I think the screw portion is the same) screws, and deeper Defiant Design engraving, I might be fooled into thinking it was authentic.
Note that there have been several reports of this model of clone going into autofire and melting the button. I'm at a loss as to how that could happen as the switches (aside from the composition of the spring) appear to be identical. Nevertheless, I'll be detaching my atty for a while when I leave it unattended.
I did not attempt to remove the button cup on the authentic or the new clone. I could not remove it on the white letter version.
Did I miss anything?
ETA: The bottle on the new clone is compatible with the authentic but VERY stiff.
Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk
Just packed up my white lettered ds last night. Never had any button issues but having to unscrew the whole bottom Everytime gets on my nerves. Like you said 12 turns vs 4Per request:
I received my Driptech DS clone today, and tore it down to compare the button of both DS clones and my Authentic TS.
The white lettering DS clone are very far off the mark. The spring in the switch is very lightweight, and small in diameter. It's held in place by a smaller screw, too. Additionally, this clone has no rounding to any edges. It uses a smaller bottle with a hybrid plastic tube/metal straw, but the bottle is silicone. The contact surfaces in the base are anodized and require some light sanding to allow for adequate contact. There are precious few o-rings used in the single plate upper contact housing (which is held in place by 2 screws instead of 4) and, as a result, when I disassembled it, there was juice everywhere (none on the batteries, though). The 510 is only spring-loaded by virtue of a large rubber grommet. The negative contacts are smaller, and the bottle door has fine threads (about 12 turns to remove vs 4 on the authentic).
Overall, I would give this clone a pass.
The engraved DS clone is VERY close to the authentic TS internally (number of batteries notwithstanding). In fact, the only significant differences I could find involve a different color of o-ring (black instead of red) in use throughout, a different size hex head used in the top screws, and a silver (stainless) spring in place of the gold (plated?) spring. The buttons look to be interchangeable (but I did not make the attempt). The engraving of Defiant Designs is much deeper/chunkier on the clone, but the typeface is the same. The Driptech engraving is too close to call. Thr 510 is spring-loaded in the same fashion on both. The bevels/chamfers are all nice. The correct number of screws are used throughout. The bottom plate makes good contact out of the box. The negative contacts and bottle cover look, also, to be interchangeable.
If I didn't knkw it was a clone, could overlook the color of the internal o-rings and the differently sized hex head (just the head... I think the screw portion is the same) screws, and deeper Defiant Design engraving, I might be fooled into thinking it was authentic.
Note that there have been several reports of this model of clone going into autofire and melting the button. I'm at a loss as to how that could happen as the switches (aside from the composition of the spring) appear to be identical. Nevertheless, I'll be detaching my atty for a while when I leave it unattended.
I did not attempt to remove the button cup on the authentic or the new clone. I could not remove it on the white letter version.
Did I miss anything?
ETA: The bottle on the new clone is compatible with the authentic but VERY stiff.
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