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Smok XPro M80Plus

deadrising

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Hi all. I recently got the m80 plus which is said to have an adjustable 510 pin. Mine does not, it is spring loaded but no slit to adjust it up or down with a flathead screwdriver. I wouldn't care at all but my subtank mini can't be screwed down all the way or it reads "check atomizer". Did they stop producing it with the adjustable pin or did i just get a "dud" so to speak?
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Maybe it's stuck in the down position, try push on it... does it push down and spring back up?

You don't want to twist those or things start tearing apart in there so they dont put a slit in the pin that would tempt you to do it.
 

deadrising

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Its weird because i've seen pictures of it with and without the slit. Yes mine does have some springiness to it....but that slit is just to screw it down or up a little more....SMOK-M80PGD-6.jpg
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You probably got a revised version where they removed the slit because people were doing what they shouldn't be doing and ruining their mod.

I have a m50 that is an older one from them and it has the slit in the pin but it's not adjustable.

The white wire connects to the pin and if you turn the pin you turn the wire. The wire twisting can/will pop one of the soldered ends off
20150628_072453-1-1.jpg
 
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deadrising

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hmmm that's what i was thinking...I just don't know why it would be advertised as adjustable for it to not really be.
 

fq06

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I think that's a translation thing... it is adjustable, the spring adjusts it.
When we think of the word adjustable, that connotes something that's mechanically moveable.
 

deadrising

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Ohhh ok that sounds about right. I have noticed basically all of these companies are foreign and really don't have the best translations. ie....grammar mistakes right on the box and in the manual, etc. Well thanks for the help and fast reply. I really appreciate it.
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Maybe ask in a kanger subtank thread, you may or may not be able to wiggle the pin on the subtank down a little to help connect but I'd hate to tell you to try it and screw something up since I'm not familiar with that tank.

There's my disclosure, now tear into it and see if you can get the pin pulled out a hair LOL :D
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yep, thats the top. The white wire goes to the bottom of the pin.
 

fq06

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Member For 4 Years
And look at the bend it has to make and how short it is. I bet 1/2 turn would stress one of the solder points to where it pops off and your are breaking out the iron to put it back on.
 

deadrising

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Think i found a fix (for now anyway). If I first screw the subtank mini base tight onto the battery, then screw the coil down (just tight enough) onto the base it seems to work and allows for the tank to be tight and flush with the battery. I think its just the sub mini has an unneeded large 510 pin. Like its so long that I couldn't screw down all the way or it has read errors.
 

rdsok

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I would blame Smok for not taking the length of the Kanger Subtank Mini's 510 before I'd blame Kanger being too long... Smok's engineering sucks and often overlooks common stuff like that.

I never recommend overtighting a coil head... but having one too loose will also result in some leakage... so keep an eye on that to make sure it doesn't leak and cause other issues.

Too tight on any seal... deforms the o-ring ( or other type of seal ) and results in leaking... just as too loose can lead to it not properly sealing.
 

deadrising

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Yea ive had experience under/over tightening. I think I found a happy medium but I will keep and eye out for the coil being too loose. The reason I blame it on Kanger is because it does the same thing to my istick 20w....screw all the way down and readings are all over the place or not firing at all.
 

deadrising

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Thinking if I can shave the pin down just a bit it may fix the problem as well.
 

rdsok

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yea ive had experience under/over tightening. I think I found a happy medium but I will keep and eye out for the coil being too loose. The reason I blame it on Kanger is because it does the same thing to my istick 20w....screw all the way down and readings are all over the place or not firing at all.

And the iStick isn't another quality made mod built with good engineering either... so it's not a good example to make a point with...

All of my Subtanks from the original, to the Mini and Nano fit flush on my VS DNA 30w, iPV Mini v2 70w, a lower quality Amod ZNA clone 30w ( manual adj ), and even my crappy Smok XPro BT50w ( yeah, I don't care for Smok products )

I will say in defense of certain mods... the 510 standard only has the size of the threading defined, the length was never standardized which is ultimately the underlying cause of this issue to start with. Many manufacturers have seemed to follow a set of standards they defined themselves... but when one companies device uses different standards than another device made by the same company... then their engineering is all that we can call out which is the case with Smok if it is working on my mod by them and not on the one you have.
 

deadrising

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And the iStick isn't another quality made mod built with good engineering either... so it's not a good example to make a point with...

All of my Subtanks from the original, to the Mini and Nano fit flush on my VS DNA 30w, iPV Mini v2 70w, a lower quality Amod ZNA clone 30w ( manual adj ), and even my crappy Smok XPro BT50w ( yeah, I don't care for Smok products )

I will say in defense of certain mods... the 510 standard only has the size of the threading defined, the length was never standardized which is ultimately the underlying cause of this issue to start with. Many manufacturers have seemed to follow a set of standards they defined themselves... but when one companies device uses different standards than another device made by the same company... then their engineering is all that we can call out which is the case with Smok if it is working on my mod by them and not on the one you have.
Yea I can tell you don't care for Smok haha. My first time with them. But by what I've seen I have to say its the subtanks "fault". My Atlantis as well as an RBA I have fit perfect on my istick and the m80. The sub mini worked at first on the istick...but then had the issue I'm having now. So by default its the only tank that doesn't work on my 2 batteries. I've had the istick a while now and the mini is the first tank to give me an issue. To be fair though my roommate has the OG subtank which I believe works fine on his 20w Istick. But like I said if I put the base on first tight without the coil then the coil afterwards it seems to be alright.....and who knows maybe the pin on the m80 will loosen a bit as well over time
 

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