Series and parallel boxes?!??

[BluelineVapor]

I fist want to start out by saying I'm sorry if this seems so basic and dumb of me, but here's what I know currently about series vs parallel boxes

Parallel: 2 battery's delivering 3.7v, doubles(in theory) the amps of a box, allowing me to build lower ohm coils i.e. 2 20 amp battery's will let me safely build up to 30 amps(not fully double the amps)

Series: 2 battery's delivering each with 3.7v would doubt the volts to 7.4v while still maintaining the same amp limit, in this case 20amps.

Iv got that down but I'm honestly wondering what's the benifit of having 7.4v(series) vs the benifit of being able to build that much lower(parallel)?

What happens to my Vape experience when I hit an atty at 3.7v vs at 7.4v? Bigger clouds? Better taste? Better with Claptons? And why? Thank you for putting up with this but it's driving me insane and I really want a reason to buy a noisy cricket but I want to understand series before I do. Thanks

 

[Number3124]

Think of volts as the intensity of the batteries. In theory it's a zero sum game. Let's use the Samsung 25r. It's a 20 amp CDR battery. At full charge it holds 2,500 mAh at 4.2 volts. In parallel and in series the 25r holds 18.5 watt hours and can safely discharge up to 150 watts.

This means that, in theory, there is no real difference between the two. One simple allows you to build lower while the other allows you to build higher to get the same wattage with double the battery life compared to a single 18650 mod. In theory.

In practice, because of the higher voltage of a series box, series vapes (hereafter referred to as SV) are more intense and require larger coils made with higher gauge wire. If you're inexperienced with >=28 AGW wire there will be a learning curve. Additionally dual coil setups with things like fused claptons or more intricate coils become infeasible due to the amp limit and the unregulated nature of the mod. For example I have a Twisted Messes atty with a nichrome 2x24/32 AGW and a 3mm ID. It ohms out at 0.096 ohms. On an unregulated mod that is theoretically 183.75 watts. In practice it's actually a just a warm vape because of how long it takes the mass of wire to heat at 4.2 volts on a parallel unregulated mod running a pair of VTC4s.

This same build would be impossible to run on an unregulated series build (though in the regulated world it's perfectly happy on my Sigelei 200w at 120w). It would pull 87.5 amps and run at 735 watts. Not only would the batteries immediately enter thermal runway but the build would probably immolate as well.

Series builds need to be high resistance made with low gauge wire. If you have a series mod and like clapton or twisted wire you'll want to get used to working with 28 AGW and higher wire. If you don't want to start working with 30 AGW wire, but like twisted builds you might as well get used used to single coil setups.

In the end it's all up to your preferences. I like building low with fused claptons and stuff like that so I tend towards parallel boxes. However, series boxes have their appeal as well. For example you can make a 4mm ID dual coil set up with 16 wraps per coil using nichrome 80 that will ohm out to 0.7. It will heat up to instantly and produce high clouds that taste amazing because of the extra surface area that series builds require.

Hope that helps.

 

[BluelineVapor]

Think of volts as the intensity of the batteries. In theory it's a zero sum game. Let's use the Samsung 25r. It's a 20 amp CDR battery. At full charge it holds 2,500 mAh at 4.2 volts. In parallel and in series the 25r holds 18.5 watt hours and can safely discharge up to 150 watts.

This means that, in theory, there is no real difference between the two. One simple allows you to build lower while the other allows you to build higher to get the same wattage with double the battery life compared to a single 18650 mod. In theory.

In practice, because of the higher voltage of a series box, series vapes (hereafter referred to as SV) are more intense and require larger coils made with higher gauge wire. If you're inexperienced with >=28 AGW wire there will be a learning curve. Additionally dual coil setups with things like fused claptons or more intricate coils become infeasible due to the amp limit and the unregulated nature of the mod. For example I have a Twisted Messes atty with a nichrome 2x24/32 AGW and a 3mm ID. It ohms out at 0.096 ohms. On an unregulated mod that is theoretically 183.75 watts. In practice it's actually a just a warm vape because of how long it takes the mass of wire to heat at 4.2 volts on a parallel unregulated mod running a pair of VTC4s.

This same build would be impossible to run on an unregulated series build (though in the regulated world it's perfectly happy on my Sigelei 200w at 120w). It would pull 87.5 amps and run at 735 watts. Not only would the batteries immediately enter thermal runway but the build would probably immolate as well.

Series builds need to be high resistance made with low gauge wire. If you have a series mod and like clapton or twisted wire you'll want to get used to working with 28 AGW and higher wire. If you don't want to start working with 30 AGW wire, but like twisted builds you might as well get used used to single coil setups.

In the end it's all up to your preferences. I like building low with fused claptons and stuff like that so I tend towards parallel boxes. However, series boxes have their appeal as well. For example you can make a 4mm ID dual coil set up with 16 wraps per coil using nichrome 80 that will ohm out to 0.7. It will heat up to instantly and produce high clouds that taste amazing because of the extra surface area that series builds require.

Hope that helps.

Holy shit Thank You!! You have just perfectly summed up what Iv been trying to understand and racking my brain with for 2 solid weeks! Ty a thousand times and back

 

[PaulS]

You need to be very careful with some series boxes. I own the Noisy Cricket. It is a series box with a hybrid adaptor. The hybrid adaptor means you have to be sure the pin on your atomizer protrudes enough to make direct contact with the battery and not allow the rest of of the atomizer pin to come into contact. Otherwise you get a nasty short. The batteries in series hit like a ton of bricks. We have built as low as .3 ohm but when we do this we get a few puffs and need to allow the mod to cool off. For safety .6 ohm and higher is my recommendation.

Series mods are not for people who do not understand ohms law and building coils. They are dangerous in the wrong hands. I built a .6 ohm kanthal 13 wrap coil dual and one coil popped on me. If you tighten down too hard or too loose, if you align poorly, if you have hot spots - trouble. I use a double vision atomizer at .57 ohm with a 14 wrap kanthal at 3.0 mm diameter. On any regulated mod or parallel mod it takes too long to heat up and really enjoy. On the Cricket the hit is instantaneous.

Enjoy your vape but vape SAFE.

 

[pounder2000]

Also, if you are running parallel, you have 4.2 volts, at .3ohms, you are vaping at 58 watts, with a series, you have 8.4 volts, and at .6 ohm, you are vaping at 117 watts.

 

[Fishman1704]

I too have a Noisy Cricket. I built a 30 over 26 gauge Clapton, seven wraps, dual coil that comes in at .51 ohms. That's a lot of juice surface that pumps out mega flavor on very silky yet very thick Vapor, and it ramps up almost instantly. Remember that it's 14 coils. When I move that same Atty to a parallel box, it takes four or five seconds to ramp up. By then, I'm out of breath. That is the advantage of a series box. But the ramp time and amount of heating surface is where the advantages end. The batteries drain relatively quickly, and the juice literally pours itself out of the bottle. My adv is a parallel box, and my series box, while amazing on fresh batteries, is just at break time at work, with my first beer after work, and after dinner.

 

[BluelineVapor]

To reply back, thank you all for your input and knowledge. Iv been building for a good while but stuck to regulated mods due to my safety concerns(I'd rather be over paranoid then reckless). The ramp up time on some of my high ohm coils, .4-.6 is where I have definitely been noticing the lag from when I fire it. I think I'm going to jump on the noisy cricket because it's so damn cheap. If anyone has a suggestion on a great parallel dual 18650 box in the 40-65$ range please lemme know, because I definitely want to get one as well. Thanks again guys

 

[Number3124]

To reply back, thank you all for your input and knowledge. Iv been building for a good while but stuck to regulated mods due to my safety concerns(I'd rather be over paranoid then reckless). The ramp up time on some of my high ohm coils, .4-.6 is where I have definitely been noticing the lag from when I fire it. I think I'm going to jump on the noisy cricket because it's so damn cheap. If anyone has a suggestion on a great parallel dual 18650 box in the 40-65$ range please lemme know, because I definitely want to get one as well. Thanks again guys

The Cricket is a great box, but be aware that it is a hybrid connection. Your positive connection of your atomizer is connecting directly to the battery. Therefore this mod is only safe to use with an atty that has a protruding 510 connection. I'd be comfortable using my Compvape attys on it (the El Cabron, the Twisted Messes, the Double Vision, and the 13 Heavens 9 Hells), but I would not use my Kennedys for example. I'm not confident that they have a long enough positive connection.

If you're planning on using the Cricket do brush up on hybrid 510 connections. Also, make sure to always use 8.4 as your starting voltage when calculating whether a build is safe for not.

Also, GrimmGreen has a great video on the mod:

 

[Fishman1704]

I'm loving my cricket. Mostly use a Doge V2 with a .51 dual clapton and with airflow at about 40% open, killer flavor which is something the Doge isn't really known for being as it's marketed as a competition atty. Ramp time is almost instant and I only have to depress the button for two to two and a half seconds and it still makes a major cloud.
I also have an all copper Abbadon clone I got for about thirty bucks which has been a very good performer for me. I build at .12 ohms on it give or take and it's pretty flawless. Might be worth looking at as a parallel box.

 

[havoc1967]

I have about six batteries that I have "married" and have used strictly in a parallel box (Dimitri clone). Is there any problem use these same couples in a series box (Sigelei 100w+)? Just curious if going back and forth from parallel to series is bad for the batteries.

 

[Fishman1704]

To be honest, I really don't know. I have two married sets I sharpied P1 and P2, and two sets marked S1a + b and S2 a + b. The P's never go on the parallel box and vice versa. The a and b is so I can keep track of swapping out which one becomes positive next on the series box. Since I rotate the a and B on the series, I would have to say no. Keep the parallel batteries parallel and the series batteries series. I don't know if swapping the series batteries is necessary, but I just thought it is a good idea so I do it.

 

[dry_hit]

Depends on what you read, matched, married etc. I have three sets that spend time in a Snow Wolf, Fuchia, Noisy Cricket, and a Nookie V2 and they do the job well. I always use them as a charged pair. Other than that I never know which position they were in when running a mod.

 

[Fishman1704]

That's where the a and b come in. My series rotation is S1a S2a S1b S2b then I start over. The battery I remove tells me what the next one is.

 

[BoomStick]

I have about six batteries that I have "married" and have used strictly in a parallel box (Dimitri clone). Is there any problem use these same couples in a series box (Sigelei 100w+)? Just curious if going back and forth from parallel to series is bad for the batteries.

Won't hurt a thing.

 

[havoc1967]

Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate all the responses

 

[Fishman1704]

Won't hurt a thing.

And there it is. I suspected that was true since you fully charge your batteries to max m/amps and voltage anyway. I've just read here and there that it was a good idea, I started doing it, and now my OCD self won't stop. It's all part of the ritual now.

 

[Metalmaniac666]

I fist want to start out by saying I'm sorry if this seems so basic and dumb of me, but here's what I know currently about series vs parallel boxes

Parallel: 2 battery's delivering 3.7v, doubles(in theory) the amps of a box, allowing me to build lower ohm coils i.e. 2 20 amp battery's will let me safely build up to 30 amps(not fully double the amps)

Series: 2 battery's delivering each with 3.7v would doubt the volts to 7.4v while still maintaining the same amp limit, in this case 20amps.

Iv got that down but I'm honestly wondering what's the benifit of having 7.4v(series) vs the benifit of being able to build that much lower(parallel)?

What happens to my Vape experience when I hit an atty at 3.7v vs at 7.4v? Bigger clouds? Better taste? Better with Claptons? And why? Thank you for putting up with this but it's driving me insane and I really want a reason to buy a noisy cricket but I want to understand series before I do. Thanks

I am using a paralell box mod what is the best dual coil build using 20 gauge kanthal wire and also using 24 gauge kanthal wire

 

[The_BIG_Red89]

There's also something that has to do with the high voltage that you actually get more wattage for the amps you are drawing making it actually more efficient in certain circumstances.