Questions About My ELeaf iStick 30W w/ Kanger Subtank Mini

[Cheddar]

Good morning everyone,

I am new to vaping and recently bought the setup above. Everything was working great for the first few weeks of vaping. I was able to hit at all wattages with no problem, until after a while, it started tasting burnt. I assumed the coil needed changing. The subtank came with a premade replacement coil, so I took it apart and put in the replacement (figuring it out on my own). It was fine for a while after I did that, but now it tastes burnt at wattages higher than 17. I used to keep it around 22-25W previous to changing the coil. Not sure what hapened there.

After looking online for new replacement coils (since it only came with one), I noticed that Kangertech has the whole atomizer for sale, as well as the premade wire coils... Was I not supposed to change only the wire? Did I do something wrong?

When I bought the vape, the salesmen didn't really give me too much info on changing coils. I asked when they should be changed, and he said "You'll know when it needs changing." I asked how, and he said there were instructions inside the box. Well, the instructions aren't very descriptive, nor do they really show how to replace the coils...

I guess what I'm looking for are instructions on how to change the coils for my setup, and a possible explanation on why I can't vape the same high wattages I used to without leaving my mouth tasting like an ashtray? Also, if there's any other information I should know about when using my setup, I would gladly listen.

I really appreciate any feedback. Thanks guys and gals!

 

[madmonkey]

Hey bud...and welcome to VU

The square thing that the coil is in is call an "Orgainic Cotton Coil" assembly or OCC for short. The tank comes with two coils, a 0.5 ohm coil for higher wattages (20-25ish watts realisitically,) and a 1.2 ohm coil for lower wattages (10-18 realistically,) What happened was your first coil was the 0.5 one and it lived out it's normal life it sounds like and when you went to change the coil out you put the other coil in without reading the side (which makes sense because no one told you to it sounds like,) and didn't see that it had to be used at a lower power setting and fried it pretty quickly. You didn't do anything wrong, you just didn't know to keep the power down with the little guy. That whole square thing just screws in and to change it you just unscrew that one and screw a new one in. I would go back to the vape shop and by a couple 0.5 heads to hold you over and then come back and go online to a shop like 101vapes and order a 5 pack of the 0.5 OCC replacement heads for your subtank...there are other shops you can get them from online and they'll be cheaper than your brick and mortar shop...but you still need to go there and get a couple to hold you over till your online order arrives in the mail.

I am out the door on my way to work but feel free to PM me with any questions as well as posting them here and I will answer them tonight when I get home...there are several other helpful people here that I am sure will see this and chime in at some point.

It's just a learning bump, vaping's a journey...now you know you need the 0.5 coils and not the 1.2 ohm coils...no biggie....check out this thread as well as it has many good answers to basic beginner questions and links to other threads to help you out with a bunch of knowledge that will help make you an informed vapor and an informed shopper. Best of luck to you and happy vaping...

and remember, go to your store and ask for the "0.5 ohm OCC replacement heads for a Kanger Subtank." Those are the ones you need.... cheers!

http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/

 

[Cheddar]

it sounds like and when you went to change the coil out you put the other coil in without reading the side (which makes sense because no one told you to it sounds like,) and didn't see that it had to be used at a lower power setting and fried it pretty quickly.

I appreciate the info and the quick reply. I didn't change the square part (atomizer?), only the wire coil inside and the cotton wick, seeing as I thought the square part was just a housing for the actual wire "coil."

So to be sure, I need to just change the whole square part, and not just the metal wire coil?

 

[Mattp169]

the subtank actually comes with 3 coils. 2 square ones and this round looking thing. The round looking think is a rebuildable coil. thats what the wire and cotton are for. this round thing is called a rebuildable deck. Its for making your own coils and wicking it the way you want.

The tank should have had one of the square things installed. if that is the case, then all you do is unscrew that and put a new one in.
But the come in 2 different resistances, .5 and 1.2. 1.2 coils should be fired at a lower wattage then .5 usually.

You can buy more square coil assemblies (the whole square thing) online or at the local stores. This is all I use. If you want to start making your own coils then you would need to buy wire and a few simple tools and some cotton then you would use the round thing.

 

[madmonkey]

Yup. You can unscrew the woke square part and screw a new one in. I would sick to doing just that for awhile till you learn more about rebuilding to rip the wires out like you did. You can short things out and then the coil won't fire at all

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

[Cheddar]

Will do from now on, thanks guys!

 

[Iquitsmoking]

Why is .5 better than 1.2? I run a cloupor mini with a kanger mini, and have a nano also. I'd have thought the 1.2 would be better, as it's more comfortably in the range the mod will handle. The Cloupor is only good down to .45, according to the manual.

 

[Lefty]

I don't think anyone said the .5 was better just that the 1.2 wouldn't work well at the wattage he was running for the .5.

 

[madmonkey]

Why is .5 better than 1.2? I run a cloupor mini with a kanger mini, and have a nano also. I'd have thought the 1.2 would be better, as it's more comfortably in the range the mod will handle. The Cloupor is only good down to .45, according to the manual.

It's neither better nor worse...it's a different resistance meant to operate at a different wattage setting depending on your preferences. A 1.2 ohm OCC coil can't handle wattages above about 18 really where as the .5 ohm shines in the lower to mid 20's ...it's all about what's the best vape for you....also, both of those coils get really warm for the wattages they run best at so if you like a warm vape you don't need a mod that goes super high it wattage to get that hot vape you like,,,,well, pretty warm to kinda hot if you chain vape it anyways