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Orchid RDA

Ok so I have been messing with my orchid for almost 2 weeks and I cant get back to above 1 ohm I get stuck at .7-.9. And yes I have tried that site Steam and followed the calculator with the wraps ant its a no go. So what I have is a Istick, 28 gauge wire.
 

brianriggs

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Do 10 wraps each coil on a 1/8 drill bit.that will put you every close to 1.20 ohms.
 

State O' Flux

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Ok so I have been messing with my orchid for almost 2 weeks and I cant get back to above 1 ohm I get stuck at .7-.9. And yes I have tried that site Steam and followed the calculator with the wraps ant its a no go. So what I have is a Istick, 28 gauge wire.

With the wattage you have... I assume 20w, you'll never get a good dual coil build above 1.0Ω with 28 gauge. Why? Because the heat flux will be too cold. A 1.0Ω build on @brianriggs suggested 10 wraps / 1/8" (3.175mm) mandrel produces a heat flux of only 89 mW/mm2, at 20 watts.

You either need to build it as a single coil with 28 gauge, or get some thinner wire.

Examples:
  • 28 gauge, single coil, 5/64" (1.98mm) mandrel, 4mm legs (total), 9 wraps for 1.4Ω resistance. Heat flux at 20 watts is 254 mW/mm2.
  • 31 gauge, dual parallel coil, 1/16" (1.59mm) mandrel, 4mm legs (total), 9 wraps for 1.0Ω resistance. Heat flux at 20 watts is 252 mW/mm2.
  • Too warm - lower the wattage. Too cool... with the former, decrease resistance buy 0.1Ω~0.2Ω - 296 mW/mm2 for a 1.2Ω/8 wrap).
  • With the latter, change to 32 gauge wire at 9 (1.3Ω) or 8 (1.2Ω) wraps. Heat flux increases to 274 mW/mm2 and 297 mW/mm2, respectively.
If all this seems a bit confusing, please click on my second sigline hyperlink for more detailed information regarding the use of Steam Engine.
 

luciddreamer

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With the wattage you have... I assume 20w, you'll never get a good dual coil build above 1.0Ω with 28 gauge. Why? Because the heat flux will be too cold. A 1.0Ω build on @brianriggs suggested 10 wraps / 1/8" (3.175mm) mandrel produces a heat flux of only 89 mW/mm2, at 20 watts.

You either need to build it as a single coil with 28 gauge, or get some thinner wire.

Examples:
  • 28 gauge, single coil, 5/64" (1.98mm) mandrel, 4mm legs (total), 9 wraps for 1.4Ω resistance. Heat flux at 20 watts is 254 mW/mm2.
  • 31 gauge, dual parallel coil, 1/16" (1.59mm) mandrel, 4mm legs (total), 9 wraps for 1.0Ω resistance. Heat flux at 20 watts is 252 mW/mm2.
  • Too warm - lower the wattage. Too cool... with the former, decrease resistance buy 0.1Ω~0.2Ω - 296 mW/mm2 for a 1.2Ω/8 wrap).
  • With the latter, change to 32 gauge wire at 9 (1.3Ω) or 8 (1.2Ω) wraps. Heat flux increases to 274 mW/mm2 and 297 mW/mm2, respectively.
If all this seems a bit confusing, please click on my second sigline hyperlink for more detailed information regarding the use of Steam Engine.
What is heat flux, and why is it important in vaping/building? I read the second link in your sig but still a bit confused..
 

State O' Flux

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What is heat flux, and why is it important in vaping/building? I read the second link in your sig but still a bit confused..
Heat flux is just a way of measuring radiated coil temperature. The variables that affect heat flux are net resistance, wire gauge, parallel build coil count and wattage applied. All can be adjusted to produce optimal elements, in harmony, for the wants and needs of the individual vapist.

Wrap count and coil diameter have no effect with heat flux... for that matter, the only thing that determines resistance is gauge and length.

The HF can be used to apply adequate wattage for an existing build, or the more logical choice for regulated APVs... along with heat capacity an percentage of leg power loss... to build a setup best suited within the parameters of the power supply.

With a VW APV, one can "force" wattage. With a mech, only the net resistance determines battery drain.

With an unregulated mech, most will select a setup and build based on battery available continuous current ratings (some taking into account the pulse rate as well), desired resistance and surface area... heat flux (along with the others) adds double the options.

Take your build, exactly as it is and enter all the variables in Steam Engine. See what your HF, HC and Leg Power Loss values are... you might be surprised.
 

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