So... I bought a Ohm meter. From Fasttech. I know, I know...
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1519800
This little gem read .4 high when cross-compared to 4 different mods, and my Fluke VOM
Decided not to return it, as I didn't want to ponder whether they resold it to the noob whose mech exploded, because he believed he had put a 0.5 build in his atty.
The meter quit reading inaccuratly or otherwise, as the 510 rotated when attatching an atty. I got it 4 days ago.
A 7 dollar piece of junk. Almost.
This meter, now met my personal criteria for experimentation. Another member suggested that adjusting the small potentimeter on the PCB might fix it, and I too had hoped for such an easy fix, but the entire PCB is potted in a black silicone. Not the squishy silicone, the almost epoxy silicone. Radical measures were justified.
With nothing to lose, I wielded my trusty heavy duty red handled Xacto knife, and began carving around the PCB. Only one less than usually deep laceration and about 10 minutes later, I was able to see, there is no PCB board as such.
Other than the box, switch the 2 atty connectors, and battery wires, the only other component is the module. When looking at an intact meter, the LED display is the top of the module, which is barely larger than the display.
I had not been exactly gentle disassembling it, as gentle will get you nowhere with the black silicone.
The reason this meter was crap (one of them) is that the connectors are leftovers from very bad Ecigs. The female 510 is actually the connector from an EgoT style Epen. The kind that is crimped into the batt tube, and eventually spins when attaching your CE4.
This pin is not spring loaded. The shit show solder job on the center pin, was clearly the central issue that led to all of this. It also rotates when you screw an atty on.
Eventually, the wire will make enough rotations, it will break, and the meter won't work.
If you have read this far, you are probably wondering why I am typing more than just "POS Meter". Your patience might be rewarded. Mine was.
I discovered, once I had extracted it, that the module, has a batt + and - (3v) and a Gnd solder pad, as well as a R (resistance ) pad and.... a V pad. V you ask? Could... Yup this module is capable of double duty as a volt meter. And, after re-soldering wires to the appropiate pads, it powered up, and the volt meter is accurate.
Still, the whole point of the exercise was to have a simple easy accurate Ohm meter, which was going to be something easy for the girlfriend to use.
Close inspection of the module showed no adjustment pot. Here is the good news.
How to caliberate? Simples. The caliberation is achieved by trimming the length of the wire going to the center pin of the 510. Start long,and trim the wire until it reads correctly and solder.
The module, once caliberated is quite accurate,
But, you ask, surely you are not going to solder it back to the same connecter are you? Fuck no.
In the same order, I got https://www.fasttech.com/p/2294305
I was intending to use this connecter for a theme based dual 18650 series mech box mod I have been commisioned to build.
It is a back burner thing, there is no hurry, and I have been aquiring different 510s to see which are good enough to put on it.
The above connecter, is not by any means a Fat Daddy Vape 510, but it IS a decent serviceable, if a little agricultural looking 510. Onto the Ohm meter it went.
In a nut shell, if you need a decent, shrewdly accurate Ohm reader that won't fail you, and you do not mind a little blood spilling, you know how to solder and use a VOM, and woke up this morning thinking, "I sure need more niggly projects in my life" Then for under $10 and some O- in my case, this will do it.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1519800
This little gem read .4 high when cross-compared to 4 different mods, and my Fluke VOM
Decided not to return it, as I didn't want to ponder whether they resold it to the noob whose mech exploded, because he believed he had put a 0.5 build in his atty.
The meter quit reading inaccuratly or otherwise, as the 510 rotated when attatching an atty. I got it 4 days ago.
A 7 dollar piece of junk. Almost.
This meter, now met my personal criteria for experimentation. Another member suggested that adjusting the small potentimeter on the PCB might fix it, and I too had hoped for such an easy fix, but the entire PCB is potted in a black silicone. Not the squishy silicone, the almost epoxy silicone. Radical measures were justified.
With nothing to lose, I wielded my trusty heavy duty red handled Xacto knife, and began carving around the PCB. Only one less than usually deep laceration and about 10 minutes later, I was able to see, there is no PCB board as such.
Other than the box, switch the 2 atty connectors, and battery wires, the only other component is the module. When looking at an intact meter, the LED display is the top of the module, which is barely larger than the display.
I had not been exactly gentle disassembling it, as gentle will get you nowhere with the black silicone.
The reason this meter was crap (one of them) is that the connectors are leftovers from very bad Ecigs. The female 510 is actually the connector from an EgoT style Epen. The kind that is crimped into the batt tube, and eventually spins when attaching your CE4.
This pin is not spring loaded. The shit show solder job on the center pin, was clearly the central issue that led to all of this. It also rotates when you screw an atty on.
Eventually, the wire will make enough rotations, it will break, and the meter won't work.
If you have read this far, you are probably wondering why I am typing more than just "POS Meter". Your patience might be rewarded. Mine was.
I discovered, once I had extracted it, that the module, has a batt + and - (3v) and a Gnd solder pad, as well as a R (resistance ) pad and.... a V pad. V you ask? Could... Yup this module is capable of double duty as a volt meter. And, after re-soldering wires to the appropiate pads, it powered up, and the volt meter is accurate.
Still, the whole point of the exercise was to have a simple easy accurate Ohm meter, which was going to be something easy for the girlfriend to use.
Close inspection of the module showed no adjustment pot. Here is the good news.
How to caliberate? Simples. The caliberation is achieved by trimming the length of the wire going to the center pin of the 510. Start long,and trim the wire until it reads correctly and solder.
The module, once caliberated is quite accurate,
But, you ask, surely you are not going to solder it back to the same connecter are you? Fuck no.
In the same order, I got https://www.fasttech.com/p/2294305
I was intending to use this connecter for a theme based dual 18650 series mech box mod I have been commisioned to build.
It is a back burner thing, there is no hurry, and I have been aquiring different 510s to see which are good enough to put on it.
The above connecter, is not by any means a Fat Daddy Vape 510, but it IS a decent serviceable, if a little agricultural looking 510. Onto the Ohm meter it went.
In a nut shell, if you need a decent, shrewdly accurate Ohm reader that won't fail you, and you do not mind a little blood spilling, you know how to solder and use a VOM, and woke up this morning thinking, "I sure need more niggly projects in my life" Then for under $10 and some O- in my case, this will do it.
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