I realize this mod is an old model now, but with all the raves it got I thought I'd give it a try. Been vaping on my trusty old Yihi IPV4S after the (newer) VT133 DNA mod died at just 3.5yrs old.
I'm a 100% VG, TC-only vaper, so TC isn't new (been TC'ing for over 4yrs). Also always use an Aromamizer Supreme, dual coil, DIY 7-wraped, spaced, 316L 24g, organic cotton wick. Same setup now for last 4+ years.
The VT133 DNA and IPV4S delivered similar (both great) vaping experiences. Clouds and flavor. I can't say the same for the SXMini G Class. Except in power mode.
For some reason TC mode is weaker. Less vapor, less flavor. No matter how I dial it. My usual settings are 410F and 35J. On the SX I also chose Power+ mode for an initial kick to match up with the TCR curve I had on the DNA and the experience of the IPV4S. Bumping the watts (joules) to 36 helps. Any higher and it gets too hot and starts to get a very slight burny flavor. So at these settings it's doable but nothing to write home about compared to what I had been vaping on the other mods. (Certainly no better, and maybe not quite as good.)
However my real beef is something else ... and I am hoping this is user error and someone can set me straight.
The memory settings (M1, M2, etc) don't actually keep the settings where I left them last. For instance, since the TC was weak, I wanted one of the memory settings to be a power mode config - so entered the settings I wanted in M1 and pressed the joystick in, then the fire button once.... but if I switch away from M1 to go to M2 where I saved TC settings, everything is still in watts mode and I have to do an extra press of the joystick to get it to change to TC/Joules and bring up the settings that I have saved in M2.
Then it's the same routine if I switch back from M2 to M1 - everything is in Joules mode and have to press the joystick to switch back to watts/PM to get the real settings there. ?! In all past mods whatever you entered into each flash memory setting was saved. Simply switch to M1 or M2 brought up your saved settings. No messing about with extra presses or the Memory banks reflecting settings from the previous bank.
Installed the PC app to try configuring M1, M2, etc through that so see if they would stick without the extra press. I couldn't use the sliders to configure the settings! They won't slide with the mouse, (they stay where they are) then suddenly JUMP somewhere... and no way to simply enter the number "35" (or whatever joules/watts you want). This is on a laptop with W7 64-bit. I know that's an old OS but still millions using it, so you'd think the softw would be compatible.
I am a Yihi or DNA person, but always leaned Yihi. However if I would have tried the SX out ahead of time, would probably have gotten a newer model IPV mod. I'll get used to it (just got it today), but I am surprised at the over-the-top rave reviews. I'd give it a C at best. (EDIT FEW DAYS LATER: Revised to a B- as explained in a later post in this thread.)
But maybe I'm the one who's not doing something right!
EDIT: Another con forgot to mention - in TC mode you must lock resistance in order for it to work in TC. Maybe things have changed but when I was learning about vaping locking resistance was NOT desired and only did it if the tank was wonky with jumping resistances, which meant you really needed to fix the base/coil/screws or replace the tank. You could say it was to compensate for dodgy equipment which was more common when vaping was still coming into its own. But resistance naturally changes as the wire heats and cools, and so when it's not locked, your settings are working off whatever the current, true resistance is, instead of the 'false' locked-in setting. Now maybe their chip/firmware compensates for that, but it still seems less accurate that working off the actual resistance of the wire in real time. (All my understanding of it. Maybe I have something wrong.)
EDIT: I would have been very disappointed if I paid $200+ for this like many did - esp back when it came out. Luckily I paid $90 from Everzon as they were having a sale. But can't imagine these foibles in a $200-$300 device!
I'm a 100% VG, TC-only vaper, so TC isn't new (been TC'ing for over 4yrs). Also always use an Aromamizer Supreme, dual coil, DIY 7-wraped, spaced, 316L 24g, organic cotton wick. Same setup now for last 4+ years.
The VT133 DNA and IPV4S delivered similar (both great) vaping experiences. Clouds and flavor. I can't say the same for the SXMini G Class. Except in power mode.
For some reason TC mode is weaker. Less vapor, less flavor. No matter how I dial it. My usual settings are 410F and 35J. On the SX I also chose Power+ mode for an initial kick to match up with the TCR curve I had on the DNA and the experience of the IPV4S. Bumping the watts (joules) to 36 helps. Any higher and it gets too hot and starts to get a very slight burny flavor. So at these settings it's doable but nothing to write home about compared to what I had been vaping on the other mods. (Certainly no better, and maybe not quite as good.)
However my real beef is something else ... and I am hoping this is user error and someone can set me straight.
The memory settings (M1, M2, etc) don't actually keep the settings where I left them last. For instance, since the TC was weak, I wanted one of the memory settings to be a power mode config - so entered the settings I wanted in M1 and pressed the joystick in, then the fire button once.... but if I switch away from M1 to go to M2 where I saved TC settings, everything is still in watts mode and I have to do an extra press of the joystick to get it to change to TC/Joules and bring up the settings that I have saved in M2.
Then it's the same routine if I switch back from M2 to M1 - everything is in Joules mode and have to press the joystick to switch back to watts/PM to get the real settings there. ?! In all past mods whatever you entered into each flash memory setting was saved. Simply switch to M1 or M2 brought up your saved settings. No messing about with extra presses or the Memory banks reflecting settings from the previous bank.
Installed the PC app to try configuring M1, M2, etc through that so see if they would stick without the extra press. I couldn't use the sliders to configure the settings! They won't slide with the mouse, (they stay where they are) then suddenly JUMP somewhere... and no way to simply enter the number "35" (or whatever joules/watts you want). This is on a laptop with W7 64-bit. I know that's an old OS but still millions using it, so you'd think the softw would be compatible.
I am a Yihi or DNA person, but always leaned Yihi. However if I would have tried the SX out ahead of time, would probably have gotten a newer model IPV mod. I'll get used to it (just got it today), but I am surprised at the over-the-top rave reviews. I'd give it a C at best. (EDIT FEW DAYS LATER: Revised to a B- as explained in a later post in this thread.)
But maybe I'm the one who's not doing something right!
EDIT: Another con forgot to mention - in TC mode you must lock resistance in order for it to work in TC. Maybe things have changed but when I was learning about vaping locking resistance was NOT desired and only did it if the tank was wonky with jumping resistances, which meant you really needed to fix the base/coil/screws or replace the tank. You could say it was to compensate for dodgy equipment which was more common when vaping was still coming into its own. But resistance naturally changes as the wire heats and cools, and so when it's not locked, your settings are working off whatever the current, true resistance is, instead of the 'false' locked-in setting. Now maybe their chip/firmware compensates for that, but it still seems less accurate that working off the actual resistance of the wire in real time. (All my understanding of it. Maybe I have something wrong.)
EDIT: I would have been very disappointed if I paid $200+ for this like many did - esp back when it came out. Luckily I paid $90 from Everzon as they were having a sale. But can't imagine these foibles in a $200-$300 device!
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