My first mech mod

[Mike H.]

Decided for sometime that i wanted to try a mechanical "tube style" mod and didnt want to spend alot incase i didnt care for it..I received today from fasttech my Nemesis clone..Having watched youtube alot it was fairly simple for me to get set up and firing with some authentic vtc5 batteries i had...Much to my surprise i installed a new kanger protank2 mini on this thing and it fired up like a beast on the first try...Was a surprising amount of vapor from a simple 1.8ohm coil.

I did however notice a common complaint with the spring loaded switch..its just simply not a good design and i had to press in the center of the button and make sure i pressed dead center to get it to fire correctly...I did order a magnet upgrade kit as well but those seem to be on backorder and havent shipped..I ordered those 1 day after ordering the nemesis.

Im leaning toward the fatdaddys upgrade parts for this to see how much of a difference it makes...from what i read and videos ive seen it should be a welcome upgrade.

I for somereason though was under the impression you needed low ohms to be able to use a mech mod...This nemesis lit up the little coil and belted me with more vapor than i experience even on my new mvp 20w i received today as well ...not sure i understand this as i would think im pushing alot more power than the 8 to 10 watts i normally vape with on the mvp.. if i go more than 10 watts i get a burnt taste but still not the vapor production as i do from the nemesis yet still with good flavor and no burnt taste...*shrugs.

Anyway im liking the nemesis so far minus the switch which i will address sometime soon.

Now to get an RDA and an RTA to use it with for more results.

 

[Mike H.]

To add a little more..im actually impressed with how well the threads were done and clean on this..They are very smooth and with a snapping finger type motion the parts screw in or off at a very smooth fast speed..makes taking it apart and putting it together a delight.

So im looking at a Mutation X clone RBA and maybe will start with a 1.2ohm coil build and work down..Also liking the kayfun V3.1 RTA

A bg step up for me from the cheap ego batteries with the new Nemesis and MPV 20w and so far its a wonderful change..Time will tell if i become a cloud chaser and want gobs of power...but for now im happy.

 

[BigNasty]

That a vtc 4 or 5 then you should zero issue on a dripper and sub ohm.
Caveat of advice strip that fucking nemy down to parts and clean it look for ANY scraps of metal or extra stuff.
Trust me on this, I had a piece of flash from the top part air holes weld to my mod and arc.

 

[Mike H.]

Its a vtc5...i have 2 of them.

I'll run a brass brush on everything to be sure but it looks pretty clean..really impressed how smooth the threads are on the one i got.

Ive read about dirty gritty threads and the switch etc....other than the switch im pretty happy..maybe i got a good one built by someone happy on that day..lol

Thanks for the tip on the clean up.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

Might need to sand the delrin insulator in half and sand the fire pin down before you throw magnets in there. Shorter throw no crunchiness.

 

[BoomStick]

Most prefer a kayfun lite. Not me. I love my ehpro kayfun 3.1. Congrats on the new piece.

 

[BoomStick]

Also, are you using stock coil heads in the protank or do you rebuild them?

 

[Mike H.]

Also, are you using stock coil heads in the protank or do you rebuild them?

I build my own coils on the protanks and evods...only have experience with kanger type single coils for now ..i dont see it being much different other than maybe a thicker gauge wire to work with and a bigger drill bit to wrap on...maybe the legs needing to be in different position for an rba or rta....Gonna take baby steps in the direction of sub ohm with the coils.

Im building 1.8 ohm micro coils with 30g kanthal A1 wire using raw organic cotton for wick on the protanks and evods.

 

[Mike H.]

Might need to sand the delrin insulator in half and sand the fire pin down before you throw magnets in there. Shorter throw no crunchiness.

Im really wanting to go the magnet route but i may try it to see how it does..thanks for the tip.

 

[BoomStick]

I've got some old style kanger dual coil heads my son uses in an evod2 or an aerotank mega on an mvp2. Rebuild them with a single 28g, 1/16" i.d., 7.5 wraps, cotton wick with a cotton flavor wick on top. It's kinda ridiculous how much better they perform when you build them right. With the way the 22mm aerotank looks and the amount of vapor it makes with the custom built coil heads, you'd think it was a well setup rba.

 

[Mike H.]

I've got some old style kanger dual coil heads my son uses in an evod2 or an aerotank mega on an mvp2. Rebuild them with a single 28g, 1/16" i.d., 7.5 wraps, cotton wick with a cotton flavor wick on top. It's kinda ridiculous how much better they perform when you build them right. With the way the 22mm aerotank looks and the amount of vapor it makes with the custom built coil heads, you'd think it was a well setup rba.

Im using a 1.8mm precision screwdriver as 2mm wont fit down between the slots on mine...Also i chose the 30g wire as i wasnt sure if something bigger would be to thick of a wire and would let juice flow past the insulator or not...A little less power needed to heat it up also...My original kanger batteries are still giving me a half a day on a full charge but worn out after a year of use...Glad i dont need them now except for maybe emergency back up.

..and yea definately a big difference in vapor production and taste over a stock kanger coil...I havent tried a dual coil yet though..hopefully have a protank mini 3 coming for pretty cheap.

 

[BigNasty]

Im using a 1.8mm precision screwdriver as 2mm wont fit down between the slots on mine...Also i chose the 30g wire as i wasnt sure if something bigger would be to thick of a wire and would let juice flow past the insulator or not...A little less power needed to heat it up also...My original kanger batteries are still giving me a half a day on a full charge but worn out after a year of use...Glad i dont need them now except for maybe emergency back up.

..and yea definately a big difference in vapor production and taste over a stock kanger coil...I havent tried a dual coil yet though..hopefully have a protank mini 3 coming for pretty cheap.

If you want to warp your mind, pick up some 34 ga, roll a parallel for the same thing and get the double coil taste and cloud without 2 separate coils.

 

[Mike H.]

If you want to warp your mind, pick up some 34 ga, roll a parallel for the same thing and get the double coil taste and cloud without 2 separate coils.

Ill see what i can find on youtube on that..i have heard a parallel gives off better flavor and vapor so may be worth me seeing how to build one...thanks

 

[BigNasty]

I do it for mom's pt coils. 1.3-1.6 normally. at 3.8 volts on her MVPs.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

Im really wanting to go the magnet route but i may try it to see how it does..thanks for the tip.

I have magnets in all of mine but it won't fix any imperfections in the switch it might come with. do the sanding first clean very well. then add the magnets if you still want them.

 

[BoomStick]

I've done single coil 32g parallels in the bdc kanger heads. That works well too. I'm sure 34g would also work well. For a mod with an 11w limit, 28g only works well if you don't use too many wraps because if its too long the 11w isn't enough to achieve a proper temp. You can make a longer coil that still gets plenty hot with thinner wire in parallel. Couple ways to do it, but custom building them is definately the way to go in order to maximize the performance of the factory heads.

 

[Mike H.]

I have magnets in all of mine but it won't fix any imperfections in the switch it might come with. do the sanding first clean very well. then add the magnets if you still want them.

So as with your first response you're recommending the black insulator on the bottom of the tube switch be sanded or cut to half its thickness? ...and do you mean the face (flat side) of the adjustment pin or shorten the length of the threads so its shorter.?

On mine i have to be perfect on center and press directly upwards for it to fire..any off set with pressure it just hangs up and wont depress enough to fire...Ive got zero looseness of the battery and am able to screw the switch down enough so you dont see the brass threads on it...The adjustment pin doesnt really have the loose wobbly threading ive heard about in some so i maybe ruled that out that as a problem with it.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

sand the black (or white depending on what brand) delrin down to half it's size. then sand down the firing pin so it is recessed below the delrin you just sanded. this should put you past the crunchiness and have a very short throw. I have less then 1mm throw on my nemesis and can fire buy just looking at it. so depressing on the side or middle it doesn't matter it will fire.

 

[WARCHOP37]

what grit sandpaper are you using?

 

[Eric DeCastro]

I actually used a table mounted disk sander/ belt sander but I would use 150 grit and go higher if you like it to be smooth, I left mine just trimmed the melted plastic off.

 

[Mike H.]

sand the black (or white depending on what brand) delrin down to half it's size. then sand down the firing pin so it is recessed below the delrin you just sanded. this should put you past the crunchiness and have a very short throw. I have less then 1mm throw on my nemesis and can fire buy just looking at it. so depressing on the side or middle it doesn't matter it will fire.

Thanks man...I have the black delrin insulator on mine...fasttech middle priced model...Its the "mixed edition" that costs 16 dollars and change...Not sure who its made by.

Ill give that a shot...Do you have to go that far with the insulator then it negating to do the pin to remove all hang ups on it?...I have quite a bit of insulator above the pin when the pin is screwed all the way down..Im gonna try first bringing the insulator down to just above the pin then If i need to go more and sand the pin i will...Thanks a bunch for the tip.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

I do it to get the switch passed the lip of the tube. And also to shorten the throw. It makes the action really smooth to the point you don't know you are pressing it.

 

[Mike H.]

I do it to get the switch passed the lip of the tube. And also to shorten the throw. It makes the action really smooth to the point you don't know you are pressing it.

Ok..thanks man.