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Is it safe to run regulated mods at max watts/volts??


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    3

cloudblast

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Hello, I have a question, regarding VW mods and VV (regulated, with a chip) mods

IS IT SAFE TO USE A MOD AT ITS MAX WATTAGE/VOLTAGE

but only if: your mod is not getting hot, you are using 30A batteries (sony vtc6), the batteries are running in series, and you are obviously using all quality gear.

More specifically, i got an eleaf 100w (not tc, only $14US shipped) and it only fires up to 100w. now this isn't too bad for my application as i want to fire it generally between 85-100 watts. Depending on build and RDA that i am using.

if a mod is set to max out at a certain wattage. doesn't that mean that the company has engineered the components and wiring to work SAFELY at those levels, however the actual ceiling of the mod is more?

or should i just cave the hell in, and get a wismec Noisy Cricket ii-25 with some LG HB6's and call it a day?

i dont mess around with safety. so before i even think of using an RDA on it, I'm asking.

Currently have a OBS Engine on it with .28ohm dual coil build. running it around 4v-4.4v depending on juice choice. and it looks pretty nice actually.
 

5150sick

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If your istick 100 is a dual 18650 mod then it should have no problem at all running at the full 100 watts.

I know of a few company's that make boards that put them out to fire at a lower wattage then they can actually handle just to be extra safe.

You have probably heard of company's putting out firmware updates that will add up to 50 watts of power to a board with only a computer upgrade.
 

cloudblast

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
If your istick 100 is a dual 18650 mod then it should have no problem at all running at the full 100 watts.

I know of a few company's that make boards that put them out to fire at a lower wattage then they can actually handle just to be extra safe.

You have probably heard of company's putting out firmware updates that will add up to 50 watts of power to a board with only a computer upgrade.

Thats exactly what i thought. Honestly better safe than sorry and some people dont stop to think.

the eleaf VW device is probably the best damn thing that eleaf pumped out. I got it to exclusively use with my RDA/RTDAs and it suprisingly works like a charm. Definitely not my main rig but not a bad second or third.
 

Jim_MDP

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thats exactly what i thought. Honestly better safe than sorry and some people dont stop to think.

the eleaf VW device is probably the best damn thing that eleaf pumped out. I got it to exclusively use with my RDA/RTDAs and it suprisingly works like a charm. Definitely not my main rig but not a bad second or third.

I have a dozen or so JTs, going back to the i30, and to me their i100(non-TC) marked the start of the 3rd gen models (up to the i50, then the 40TC then the i100TC with the plain i100 straddling that line).

I'm hesitant to run any product full-tilt all day, but I will say... the i100 has a ton of empty airspace in that plastic case.
Should help it run a tad cooler. ;)

It's gentle enough on even 20A cells, so if it's still comfortable to hold at 100w... go for it.


eta: I still recommend the i100TC (updated to 120w) for a solid dual cell, back-up or primary, as Arctic Fox really breathes new life into the entire update-able line... and they've got to be damn cheap by now. :D
 

cloudblast

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Yeah well it doesnt get even slightly wharm so i guess if it stays cool it will be fine. I dont mind a chip burning out or a device giving in.

I do mind a battery venting
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
While its SAFE to use your regulated mod at full power.... I never exceed 80 percent capacity. I just don't like pushing anything to the max all the time.
Thats when bad things happen..... Good thing.... with a regulated mod the PCB leaks smoke before the batteries... MOST of the time.
 

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