Ok folks, got bored and figured this out. If you are so inclined and just like to tinker with things while you are vaping then here ya go.
What you will need:
1) 11mm socket
2) a drill bit - I used a 11/64th size.. seemed to work just right.
3) A hammer or something that will work in lieu of not having a hammer handy.
4) A gunked up iSub coil that you were going to throw away anyway.
5) Your favorite coil rebuilding stuff.. Wire, tools, wick, etc.. you know the drill.
Step 1
Put your coil upside down in the socket. I did this after I removed the little spit screen and pulled the old coil out through the top.
Step 2
Using the drill bit, center it on the middle pin of the 510 connector and tap with a hammer like this...
Step 3
You should end up with this...
Step 4
Remove the center pin from the coil body.
Step 5
Make your coil of choice.. In this case, I used a twisted 29 gauge Kanthal coil wrapped around a 1/8th inch screwdriver. I wrapped it 5 wraps and it came out to about .9 ohms. I would have liked to make a lower ohm coil, but to keep it in the same wattage range with what I had this is what I did.
Step 6
Remove the grommet from the top part of the coil head, then Insert your new coil through the bottom of the top half of the coil, and align it so that you can use your screwdriver to hold it in line with the juice holes. Then install the grommet back, but only put it around the short leg of the coil (I used that as the positive). The long leg will run down the outside of the grommet.
(yes I know.. I need to clip the nails... whatever.)
Step 7
Reinsert the center pin into the grommet. You will need to gently bend the leads out of the way so you can get it all the way in. You can use the leads to align your coil to the center (screwdriver still stuck through it) by tugging on them and getting slack out. Once you're good, you can clip them flush so they don't stick out. If you don't have a set of flush cutters, then fingernail clippers, which I obviously have misplaced, will cut close enough. You should end up with this...
Step 8
Check your coil and make sure it's centered.
Step 9
Set the coil assembly upside down on your work surface, with the pin sticking up and put the bottom piece back on top of it. Make sure that the air slots in the bottom are 90 degrees offset from the juice holes (IMPORTANT). Like this..
Step 10
Set your 11mm socket back on top of it and tap it until the pieces are press fitted back together.
And there you go!!!
At this point, you can thread a wick through the juice holes and put the little spit screen back if you wish. I didn't because I seem to have lost it in the process.. lol
Anyway, remember.. not too much wick, not too little. It takes a little practice and I'm still working on it. Also, don't test fire this thing. If you dry fire it with no wick, the grommet can overheat and you don't want your vape to taste like a burnt tire. Also, even if wicked and wetted, it will dry the wick fast so be careful.
So there you have it. A guide on how to rebuild your iSub G coil head.. Now what do I do.... hmm..
What you will need:
1) 11mm socket
2) a drill bit - I used a 11/64th size.. seemed to work just right.
3) A hammer or something that will work in lieu of not having a hammer handy.
4) A gunked up iSub coil that you were going to throw away anyway.
5) Your favorite coil rebuilding stuff.. Wire, tools, wick, etc.. you know the drill.
Step 1
Put your coil upside down in the socket. I did this after I removed the little spit screen and pulled the old coil out through the top.
Step 2
Using the drill bit, center it on the middle pin of the 510 connector and tap with a hammer like this...
Step 3
You should end up with this...
Step 4
Remove the center pin from the coil body.
Step 5
Make your coil of choice.. In this case, I used a twisted 29 gauge Kanthal coil wrapped around a 1/8th inch screwdriver. I wrapped it 5 wraps and it came out to about .9 ohms. I would have liked to make a lower ohm coil, but to keep it in the same wattage range with what I had this is what I did.
Step 6
Remove the grommet from the top part of the coil head, then Insert your new coil through the bottom of the top half of the coil, and align it so that you can use your screwdriver to hold it in line with the juice holes. Then install the grommet back, but only put it around the short leg of the coil (I used that as the positive). The long leg will run down the outside of the grommet.
(yes I know.. I need to clip the nails... whatever.)
Step 7
Reinsert the center pin into the grommet. You will need to gently bend the leads out of the way so you can get it all the way in. You can use the leads to align your coil to the center (screwdriver still stuck through it) by tugging on them and getting slack out. Once you're good, you can clip them flush so they don't stick out. If you don't have a set of flush cutters, then fingernail clippers, which I obviously have misplaced, will cut close enough. You should end up with this...
Step 8
Check your coil and make sure it's centered.
Step 9
Set the coil assembly upside down on your work surface, with the pin sticking up and put the bottom piece back on top of it. Make sure that the air slots in the bottom are 90 degrees offset from the juice holes (IMPORTANT). Like this..
Step 10
Set your 11mm socket back on top of it and tap it until the pieces are press fitted back together.
And there you go!!!
At this point, you can thread a wick through the juice holes and put the little spit screen back if you wish. I didn't because I seem to have lost it in the process.. lol
Anyway, remember.. not too much wick, not too little. It takes a little practice and I'm still working on it. Also, don't test fire this thing. If you dry fire it with no wick, the grommet can overheat and you don't want your vape to taste like a burnt tire. Also, even if wicked and wetted, it will dry the wick fast so be careful.
So there you have it. A guide on how to rebuild your iSub G coil head.. Now what do I do.... hmm..
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