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Im about to flip out with nickle coil

steven7010

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Ok so i got my new ivp4 in today though i would try and build me one of them fancy nickel coils.i have never build a nickle coil before. ...so im pissed right about now so please excuse me I have 26g and 24g ni 200 nickel im just trying to reach .2 or .15 or hell even a .3ohm and i cant even get this thing to read on my ohm reader after like 20 coils i think maybe my addy is messed up but nope its good so can someone tell me what in the !/!/$/$# im doing wrong im working with 3mm and spacing the coil 15 rap on the 26 to 7 nothing check atomizer errr so i do the same with 24g....same thing
310dac7addd1a81d85ed14403ca70569.jpg
 
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5150sick

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Use 26ga. I did my first time.

Nickel is better known as NON resistance wire so you are going to need to make a single coil 13 to 14 wraps (i'm not kidding) and 3mm inside.
pinch them tight together so they all touch but make sure none overlap.

You will end up around .13 to .15.

I know this sounds insane but its what you need to do to get a little resistance out of non resistance wire.

13 wraps 26 guage SINGLE coil 3mm inside.

DO NOT pulse the coil!!! or even fire it first

put it directly on the mod with the coil/wick saturated with juice freshly built.

When you hit the button it should give you directions to set the temp and atty

I have a flask and a Chana 40 TC so the controls may be different on your mod so I can't tell you which button to press.

If you do what I said above you should at the very least get it to read the coil and be able to go through the settings.

Start at around 420 degrees and work your way up.

Try it out and tag me back.
 
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steven7010

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Use 26ga. I did my first time.

Nickel is better known as NON resistance wire so you are going to need to make a single coil 13 to 14 wraps (i'm not kidding) and 3mm inside.
pinch them tight together so they all touch but make sure none overlap.

You will end up around .13 to .15.

I know this sounds insane but its what you need to do to get a little resistance out of non resistance wire.

13 wraps 26 guage SINGLE coil 3mm inside.

DO NOT pulse the coil!!! of even fire it first

put it directly on the mod with the coil/wick saturated with juice freshly built.

When you hit the button it should give you directions to set the temp and atty

I have a flask and a Chana 40 TC so the controls may be different on your mod so I can't tell you which button to press.

If you do what I said above you should at the very least get it to read the coil and be able to go through the settings.

Start at around 420 degrees and work your way up.

Try it out and tag me back.
I would love to try it but i think my ipv4 is messed up i get the check atomizer 10 minutes after I had it Made a kanthal wire coil because i was tired of messing with it.its .27ohm and works perfect on my cloudpor 150 but all i get it check atomizer on my ipv4 and i have the settings right so im screwed idk ill take it apart tomorrow and see if its a lose wire or something i here its hard to get the warranty to come through
 

CurlyxCracker

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Use 26ga. I did my first time.

Nickel is better known as NON resistance wire so you are going to need to make a single coil 13 to 14 wraps (i'm not kidding) and 3mm inside.
pinch them tight together so they all touch but make sure none overlap.

You will end up around .13 to .15.

I know this sounds insane but its what you need to do to get a little resistance out of non resistance wire.

13 wraps 26 guage SINGLE coil 3mm inside.

DO NOT pulse the coil!!! of even fire it first

put it directly on the mod with the coil/wick saturated with juice freshly built.

When you hit the button it should give you directions to set the temp and atty

I have a flask and a Chana 40 TC so the controls may be different on your mod so I can't tell you which button to press.

If you do what I said above you should at the very least get it to read the coil and be able to go through the settings.

Start at around 420 degrees and work your way up.

Try it out and tag me back.
I'm not a temp control user but I thought you had to space the nickel wire.
And yes I think the using of nickel wire before to make resistance-nonresistance wire causes some confusion.
All wire has resistance, some just significantly less than others..
 

rolltidevaper

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5150's advise is exactly right. I have the IPV 4 and wrap 28 gauge on a 3mm about 10 wraps and am almost always at .1 to .15. Make sure the cotton is not too tight, it will mess up your coil, remember with cotton, "little is much". Also, and most important, once you put the addy on your IPV4 you need to push the +/- together to set the resistance. Then you should be good to go. I usually vape my .1 build at 35 Joules, 400-450 degrees. Good Luck!!!
 

f1r3b1rd

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Here ha go, this video will actually help, 5150 is dead on with the nickel, it is appearing curve, but well worth it imho
We've been there and it is finicky, make sure you have good solid connections and s annoying as This rip guy is he has a good tutorial on the ni200
 

5150sick

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5150's advise is exactly right. I have the IPV 4 and wrap 28 gauge on a 3mm about 10 wraps and am almost always at .1 to .15. Make sure the cotton is not too tight, it will mess up your coil, remember with cotton, "little is much". Also, and most important, once you put the addy on your IPV4 you need to push the +/- together to set the resistance. Then you should be good to go. I usually vape my .1 build at 35 Joules, 400-450 degrees. Good Luck!!!

I'm glad you came in with the IPV4's settings.
That was the one thing I was unsure of since I've been using the DNA40's

I haven't gotten to use the IPV4 yet but it looks like a great Temp Limitation device and it's on my future to buy list.:)
 

5150sick

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I would love to try it but i think my ipv4 is messed up i get the check atomizer 10 minutes after I had it Made a kanthal wire coil because i was tired of messing with it.its .27ohm and works perfect on my cloudpor 150 but all i get it check atomizer on my ipv4 and i have the settings right so im screwed idk ill take it apart tomorrow and see if its a lose wire or something i here its hard to get the warranty to come through

Ive had atties work on one mod and get check atomizer on a second.
If you have something simple like an old protank throw that on and see what it says.

Also I don't know if the still do this but I think older IPV's have a center screw that unscrews to fit attys that don't go down as deep.
If that screw backed out and fell off you will get check atomizer every time until you put it back in.
 

Zamazam

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The 510 in the IPV4 is spring loaded, some times the spring gets smushed down when you use a long 510 atty like a Tugboat, take a toothpick or other implement and gently lift one side of the center pin in the 510, it should spring back up.
 

5150sick

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The 510 in the IPV4 is spring loaded, some times the spring gets smushed down when you use a long 510 atty like a Tugboat, take a toothpick or other implement and gently lift one side of the center pin in the 510, it should spring back up.

i'm glad someone who knows what the mod looks like replied.
 

AmandaD

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What atty are you building? For my IPV4 I use 3mm, 6 spaced wraps, 26 gauge. This will read differently in different attys - in my kayfuns it reads around .12, in my subtanks it reads .06 or .07. It can be awkward to get the wire trapped under the screws properly, because it's so soft, so that might be your problem.
 

f1r3b1rd

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^^^on that note if its hard to trap, try wrapping the legs around the screws.
 

steven7010

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5150's advise is exactly right. I have the IPV 4 and wrap 28 gauge on a 3mm about 10 wraps and am almost always at .1 to .15. Make sure the cotton is not too tight, it will mess up your coil, remember with cotton, "little is much". Also, and most important, once you put the addy on your IPV4 you need to push the +/- together to set the resistance. Then you should be good to go. I usually vape my .1 build at 35 Joules, 400-450 degrees. Good Luck!!!
Well dose nickle not read on my ohm reader because im always getting. 02 on it
 

rolltidevaper

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I've gotten to where I don't even use the ohm meter when building nickel. I just put it on the IPV4, before I wick it, and press the +/- together and see what it reads. That's the most important step on the IPV4. If you don't do it, it won't read the resistance correctly. Personally, I'd ditch the ohm meter for nickel builds and use the device.
 

steven7010

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6055be32b74bbcdd7ccf8efd3c4b41f0.jpg

The problem is here i know it i have a .27 kanthal build and i still get check atomizer
The spring dose move up and down i loosen the nut thought that might be the problem but no screwed all the way down and back up same problem
 

AmandaD

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The 510 is not meant to be adjusted - you'll mess up the wiring (if you haven't already)! I suspect that might be your issue if it won't read kanthal either (did you try on another mod?)

I meant post a pic of your build, not the 510.
 

steven7010

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The 510 is not meant to be adjusted - you'll mess up the wiring (if you haven't already)!

I meant post a pic of your build, not the 510.
Well thats what happened then i messed it up buy twisting it through the build a away and went back to kanthal
U think i can fix it ?
 

CurlyxCracker

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6055be32b74bbcdd7ccf8efd3c4b41f0.jpg

The problem is here i know it i have a .27 kanthal build and i still get check atomizer
The spring dose move up and down i loosen the nut thought that might be the problem but no screwed all the way down and back up same problem
Take the longest protruding 510 atty you have. Throw a build in it, if you get check atomizer, I can only say open it up and check the wiring to the 510. That will void your warranty of course.
 

steven7010

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Take the longest protruding 510 atty you have. Throw a build in it, if you get check atomizer, I can only say open it up and check the wiring to the 510. That will void your warranty of course.
Yea i know so i dont know what to do hmmmm go inside fix it or fight with the warranty i hear it hard to get ahold of them
 

f1r3b1rd

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Who was your vendor?
They may swap it for you and deal with p4u themselves.

That 510 that looks like a screw but isn't is a terrible design flaw.
 
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steven7010

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Who was your vendor?
They may swap it for you and deal with p4u themselves.

That 510 that looks lime a screw but isn't is a terrible design flaw.
Yes.... that thats what i thought.i got it from from ecigAdventure
 

f1r3b1rd

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f1r3b1rd

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I called them this morning and left a message but u know how that gose
At least they have a number listed. Maybe they stay off the phone for the weekend and hopefully you'll get to talk to someone Monday.
 

steven7010

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At least they have a number listed. Maybe they stay off the phone for the weekend and hopefully you'll get to talk to someone Monday.
I hope so i do think its a good mod and i cant wait to get it fixed hell i ordered my girlfriend one yesterday before the fight with nickle lol
 

f1r3b1rd

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I hope so i do think its a good mod and i cant wait to get it fixed hell i ordered my girlfriend one yesterday before the fight with nickle lol
Well, I know yihi did temp control right. Nickel is a pain in the ass and a steep learning curve. Once you get it down though, its so worth it.
I was an early adopter and use it 90% of the time.
Best trick with nickel -tempered ni200.
It behave alot like kanthal, you just can't dry burn it or its gets soft. Lightening vapes sells it.
Also because of the low resistance I generally stick with 26g for single coil and 28 for dual in the case of a small builddeck.
 
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Mike H.

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Is that how the 510s look on those mods?..Looks like it been smashed and torqued down way to tight too many times.
 

steven7010

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Is that how the 510s look on those mods?..Looks like it been smashed and torqued down way to tight too many times.
No i turned it when i wasn't supposed to thats y im getting the problems with the check atomizer im guessing I disconnected a wire or something
 

AmandaD

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IPVs are covered by Asmodus for warranty repair. I just sent back an IPV mini II under warranty, and they're sending me a new one.
 

steven7010

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IPVs are covered by Asmodus for warranty repair. I just sent back an IPV mini II under warranty, and they're sending me a new one.
Was it hard to get in touch with them because i hear they dont respon to emails or anything
I mean i probably can fix it i know its the power wire that come on soldered from the 510 connector im just scared to open it and void the warranty
 

AmandaD

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Was it hard to get in touch with them because i hear they dont respon to emails or anything
I mean i probably can fix it i know its the power wire that come on soldered from the 510 connector im just scared to open it and void the warranty

You don't need to 'get in touch' with them. You go to their website, fill out the form, pay the $8, and send it back with all the paperwork they ask for. Actually I've called them twice (the phone number is on their FB page) and always been able to reach someone immediately! As this is new I wouldn't even try to fix it without going for the warranty first.
 

steven7010

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You don't need to 'get in touch' with them. You go to their website, fill out the form, pay the $8, and send it back with all the paperwork they ask for. Actually I've called them twice (the phone number is on their FB page) and always been able to reach someone immediately! As this is new I wouldn't even try to fix it without going for the warranty first.
Ok but im going to try ecigAdventure where i bought it from 1st maybe they can do something about it if not ill send it to them because i read where they said not to send it if they dont have none in stock so idk
 

CurlyxCracker

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Ok but im going to try ecigAdventure where i bought it from 1st maybe they can do something about it if not ill send it to them because i read where they said not to send it if they dont have none in stock so idk
That's what I'd do. Hope it works out well for you!
 

f1r3b1rd

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^^^ what he said!
Best of luck dude! - incidentally a buddy if mine does alot of biz with asmodus, they are a good company to deal with.
 

smacksy

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I would love to try it but i think my ipv4 is messed up i get the check atomizer 10 minutes after I had it Made a kanthal wire coil because i was tired of messing with it.its .27ohm and works perfect on my cloudpor 150 but all i get it check atomizer on my ipv4 and i have the settings right so im screwed idk ill take it apart tomorrow and see if its a lose wire or something i here its hard to get the warranty to come through
Did you set resistance first by pressing the two little buttons at the same time?
I do this no matter if its kanthel or nickel and it works every time for me .. Love my IPV4

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
 
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steven7010

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Did you set resistance first by pressing the two little buttons at the same time?
I do this no matter if its kanthel or nickel and it works every time for me .. Love ny IPV4

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
Yes but its not working now check atomizer on every atomizer
 

smacksy

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Yes but its not working now check atomizer on every atomizer
Then check if the 510 pin in the mod is too low to make contact ..it is adjustable and maybe a turn counterclockwise will make it contact on the Atty..just a thought ..

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
 

steven7010

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Then check if the 510 pin in the mod is too low to make contact ..it is adjustable and maybe a turn counterclockwise will make it contact on the Atty..just a thought ..

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
It looks like u are supposed to turn it but not thats what messed it up its spring loaded bad design looks just like a flattop screw to my understanding
 

smacksy

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It looks like u are supposed to turn it but not thats what messed it up its spring loaded bad design looks just like a flattop screw to my understanding
Yeah its a flat top spring loaded pin.. But mine is indeed adjustable.. My Doge sat too high and I screwed the pin in the mod down to make it fit flush..sits flush and works great now..
It you have an atty that has an adjustable pin you might try screwing it out to protrude about 2mm ..check resistance on a separate ohmmeter and if its ok screw it down on the IPV4 and give a try..if the mod reads it then you'll know you will have to adjust the pin with a flat blade screwdriver (counterclockwise)...hope this helps

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
 

steven7010

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Yeah its a flat top spring loaded pin.. But mine is indeed adjustable.. My Doge sat too high and I screwed the pin in the mod down to make it fit flush..sits flush and works great now..
It you have an atty that has an adjustable pin you might try screwing it out to protrude about 2mm ..check resistance on a separate ohmmeter and if its ok screw it down on the IPV4 and give a try..if the mod reads it then you'll know you will have to adjust the pin with a flat blade screwdriver (counterclockwise)...hope this helps

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
Do u have the ipv4?
 

AmandaD

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Yeah its a flat top spring loaded pin.. But mine is indeed adjustable.. My Doge sat too high and I screwed the pin in the mod down to make it fit flush..sits flush and works great now..
It you have an atty that has an adjustable pin you might try screwing it out to protrude about 2mm ..check resistance on a separate ohmmeter and if its ok screw it down on the IPV4 and give a try..if the mod reads it then you'll know you will have to adjust the pin with a flat blade screwdriver (counterclockwise)...hope this helps

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk

Interesting! It appears to have the same pin as the IPV Mini II, which was not supposed to be adjustable, even though it looked as if it was.
 

smacksy

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Interesting! It appears to have the same pin as the IPV Mini II, which was not supposed to be adjustable, even though it looked as if it was.
Interesting indeed Amanda.. You are right saying the IPV4 is supposed to be non adjustable due to the self adjusting spring loaded pin.. I just googled looking for the correct info..
That said I know there is alot of miss information out there including the pamphlet that came with it.. Thanks for pointing that out to me..

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steven7010

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Ok so i just opened it up i just couldn't take it know more and well lets just say i lost 75$ because the power wire case was cut from me twisting it and hit the board .......fried board and u can see where i was twisting it there no way ill get warranty to give me a nother one so live and learn errrrrrrr hard head makes a soft ass
 

smacksy

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Ok so i just opened it up i just couldn't take it know more and well lets just say i lost 75$ because the power wire case was cut from me twisting it and hit the board .......fried board and u can see where i was twisting it there no way ill get warranty to give me a nother one so live and learn errrrrrrr hard head makes a soft ass
Sorry to hear that...:(

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CurlyxCracker

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Ok so i just opened it up i just couldn't take it know more and well lets just say i lost 75$ because the power wire case was cut from me twisting it and hit the board .......fried board and u can see where i was twisting it there no way ill get warranty to give me a nother one so live and learn errrrrrrr hard head makes a soft ass
Sorry to hear that... Are there stickers you had to remove? I assume there's some anti tampering stickers.
 

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