Come to find out it was probably the wrong type i was looking for anyway, i'm looking for Mouth to lung setup, anything come in mind that can work on my istick?No. The TFV12 requires much more power than the 30w istick is capable of delivering. You'd need a mod capable of at least 120-150w to get the performance for which that tank was intended.
i want the nautilus but i couldn't find a rebuildable coil, and the Kanger toptank mini, is one i'm sure i can't fuck up rebuilding the coil.The Nautilus 2 is a good flavour tank.
You should not run into issues, as you can build your coils to your own specifications regarding ohms.i want the nautilus but i couldn't find a rebuildable coil, and the Kanger toptank mini, is one i'm sure i can't fuck up rebuilding the coil.
This^^^No. The TFV12 requires much more power than the 30w istick is capable of delivering. You'd need a mod capable of at least 120-150w to get the performance for which that tank was intended.
Yup. The Kanger subtank is what I started on.....and I still do from time to time!Any Nautilus will be a win for what you are looking for. Kanger Toptank or subtank will also satisfy you.
should be fine using the prebuilt coils or even the RBA mini (rebuildable mini atomizer deck) since you can actually plan your coils to the power level you want. http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html will help.so if i go with the kanger toptank mini, i won't run into any power issues correct?
I like the way that one looks. I'll keep an eye out for it.What about the Asvape Zeta RTA, single coil and easy to build on.
Yup. The Kanger subtank is what I started on.....and I still do from time to time!
i went with the subtank anyways because it was the only one at the smoke shop, and i regret it but can't return it so i gotta use it.The Kanger Toptank would be a better buy then the subtank because they are the same thing except for the extra bonus features of the toptank.
The Subtank always was flawed in it's fill design when you had to fill the tank upside down you could never get it more then about 75% of the way full because the juice would leak out through the drip tip if you filled it too much.
The toptank totally solves this issue.
True....I do like the top fill thing. But I have quite a few subtanks due to sales, etc....top tanks(as far as I can tell....please tell me if I’m wrong) are a little harder to come by. And their replacement items(glass, o rings) are also a little harder to find. Everyone has the subtank orings.....if we’re even talking about such little nit picky things.The Kanger Toptank would be a better buy then the subtank because they are the same thing except for the extra bonus features of the toptank.
The Subtank always was flawed in it's fill design when you had to fill the tank upside down you could never get it more then about 75% of the way full because the juice would leak out through the drip tip if you filled it too much.
The toptank totally solves this issue.
Love my Subtank Mini's, hate the factory coils though.it came with the RBA deck and people are saying the deck fixes a lot of the leaking issues so i'm just waiting for my KanthalA-1 wire and cotton to come in.
The premade coils are ass
UPDATE: on the worst 60$ I've ever spent. Sub box mini starter kit
its a pos , making a coil to vapor's toolbox specs then wicking it isn't rocket science but the thing never works.
After messing up 3 coils i quickly learned how to do it, my last few coils are perfect or i would like to think so, its the wicking i'm having problems with..Making a coil to specs isnt a science, but it is sort of an art. Stay with it, the reward is waiting for you.
After messing up 3 coils i quickly learned how to do it, my last few coils are perfect or i would like to think so, its the wicking i'm having problems with..
i pulled out my rba coil and dropped it 10 seconds after come to find out the positive isn't make a consistent connection, so i ordered a new one and it works just fine now@Compif -
Yes, as @jwill has said, and the videos he has shared, once you understand how to wick the RBA head, and also realize that you need VERY LITTLE cotton (or it's 'dry-hit-city' with too much cotton) you will have a nice vape.
You should see air bubbles coming out of the juice holes of the coil head after every 1-2 puffs, except at first, since the coil has to vaporize the juice that is allready on the wick from when you primed it, then after about 5-10 puffs, you should see air bubbles, and if no air bubbles, then dry hits may be coming soon, since the wick is not adequately pulling juice in to the coil fast enough.
You need to be patient with yourself. Some atomizers I've had to try 40 or 50 different builds and wicking setups to find the sweet spot, so do not give up. Expecting to get it right on the first try is a recipe for disappointment, but the experience you gain will help you to achieve a working and good vape build in less tries down the road, but each atomizer is different and has it's own quirks.
Once you learn on this RBA head, you will be able to build easily on any other Kayfun-style deck.