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Help I have a question indeed

New to Vaping especially dripping and rebuild-able RDAs and trying to figure out exactly what it is I have. I got this mod from a buddy of mine, sadly he's one of those that will not keep anything that comes with the crap he buys, like boxes or paper work.

He said this was a Hexohm, the logos don't match from the boxes I've seen... He also said it was a 120w box, he thinks??? Can someone tell a noob what their working with, and either the specs or where I can get the specs on this box?
 

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5150sick

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Not sure of the brand but it does look like a Naos Raptor chip.

20amps Max 3 to 6 volts.

Don't go over 20amps or you could fry the chip.

Use this calculator to figure out your ohms:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm

6 Volts 20 Amps = 0.3 Ohms.

I have a raptor box and trust me this thing will rip at 0.4 - 0.35 ohms.


20140911_233547.jpg
 

5150sick

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It's either a 110 Watt OKL-T20 chip or Naos Raptor 120 watt chip but either way you can't go over 20 amps.
But trust me
You will not need to go over 20 amps

OKL-T20 chip

OKL_T20_Chip_medium.png

Naos Raptor 120 watt chip
NSR020A0X43Z_1024x1024.jpg
 

5150sick

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But it's an awesome box regardless and you got hooked up big time.
Your box would run $120 to $180 depending on who built it.
I like the fact that it is inside the smaller hammond box.
Like my HexOhm V1 (The V1 was only 10 amps and 50 watts) OKR T10 Chip

20140716_215158.jpg
 
I'm running 2 10amp batteries (2100 Sonys ATM) in this, the biggest set I have are 10/20amp Efest batteries, 3.7v each and so far I run it at its' lowest setting when dripping, I'll run half way to full power with a Herakles tank running 0.6 or so ohm. So from the responses thus far I guess I'm safe running this box such? I'm having fits with my multi meter, working on a dedicated one, but for now I'm hovering around 0.5ish to 0.3ohm on my coil builds of 6 raps of Kanthal A1 22awg. Having seen what a battery vent looks like first hand durring my remote control truck days I don't think I want that happening around my face.
 

5150sick

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i label them when I get them.
A, B, C, D, ... etc because you have to keep the cells married for the life of them.
In other words A and B stay together forever.
They go in the mod as a pair then go on the charger as a pair.
I use 1, 2, 3, 4, etc.. on some as well and I also date them.
 

5150sick

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I'm running 2 10amp batteries (2100 Sonys ATM) in this, the biggest set I have are 10/20amp Efest batteries, 3.7v each and so far I run it at its' lowest setting when dripping, I'll run half way to full power with a Herakles tank running 0.6 or so ohm. So from the responses thus far I guess I'm safe running this box such? I'm having fits with my multi meter, working on a dedicated one, but for now I'm hovering around 0.5ish to 0.3ohm on my coil builds of 6 raps of Kanthal A1 22awg. Having seen what a battery vent looks like first hand durring my remote control truck days I don't think I want that happening around my face.

You should be good with the batteries you have but when you get a chance you should buy 4 High Drain IMR18650's that are rated between 20 and 30 amps continuous
Sony's, LG's, even Efest (which are rewrapped) as long as you are above 20 amps continuous per cell you will never have any problems.
Be sure to keep them in pairs also so you may want to letter or number them to keep them together forever.
 

5150sick

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I wouldn't go below 0.35 with this mod just to be sure because ohm meters can be 0.05 off.
But with a 0.35ohm build and it turned all the way up you will be happy.
There is no real need to build any lower unless you were using a mech mod or something but since you are regulated at between 3 and 6 volts 0.35ohms is more than enough to get you above 100 watts of vaping power.
 
So let me make sure I understand what your saying when you say up or down ohm wise. 0.15 to 0.35 I should be fine, going to 0.45 to 0.85 is danger zone right? The reason I ask is because I twisted some 8 wrap 22awg Kanthal coils earlier and my batteries go hot, those coils ohm-ed out at around 6. Isn't the greater the resistance going to create a heaver load on the batteries, and thus the less the resistance the softer the drain on the same said batteries?

I know from RC truck days that hot batteries are no good, the one that vented on me did so because I had it geared WAY to high, on purpose, but still it wasn't worth it having to put the model out with a water hose.
 

5150sick

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So let me make sure I understand what your saying when you say up or down ohm wise. 0.15 to 0.35 I should be fine, going to 0.45 to 0.85 is danger zone right? The reason I ask is because I twisted some 8 wrap 22awg Kanthal coils earlier and my batteries go hot, those coils ohm-ed out at around 6. Isn't the greater the resistance going to create a heaver load on the batteries, and thus the less the resistance the softer the drain on the same said batteries?

I know from RC truck days that hot batteries are no good, the one that vented on me did so because I had it geared WAY to high, on purpose, but still it wasn't worth it having to put the model out with a water hose.

Don't go lower than 0.3 ohms because you could fry the chip.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm

If you type in 6 volts (Max voltage) and 20 amps (Max Amperage) you get

120 watts at 0.3 ohms.

So 0.25 or 0.15 would be way to low

You can go higher and I try to stay in the 0.4 to 0.6 ohm range just to not overwork the chip.

You really should replace those batteries before you start changing around builds.

If you get some high drain IMR18650's that are in the 20 to 30 amp continuous range and you won't have any problems battery wise.

I suggest you buy 4 so you can be using 2 while you are charging 2.

You can find decent high drain IMR18650 batteries on eBay for around $20 for 4
 

5150sick

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So the danger zone would be anything below 0.3 ohms - 0.25 , 0.15, 0.05, etc...
Anything above 0.3 ohms is fine - 0.35, 0.45, 0.55, etc...
 
Another thing to buy... The Efest ones I bought the guy at the local shop SAID they were 20amp cells, and they are or can be if they're pulsed, they are only 10amp continuous, though they are labeled IMR high drain.

Cool, thanks for taking the time 5150sick, still wish I could figure out if this unit is an Xohm or not.
 

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