First Mechanical Mod, Welp.

[lirruping]

A friend ordered me a clone of a "Steampunk" mech mod, an item just like this one:

http://www.fasttech.com/product/1945300-steampunk-style-18650-mechanical-mod

(--altho I think they got it from focalecig rather than fasttech; I'm not sure).
I've only used regulated vv/vw mods so far and need to buy a battery for this thing.

Does anyone know would this battery (on vapor joe's blog today) be good with it--and does nipple top vs. flat-top matter in this case?

I also am not sure whether it will take my protank ii minis or whether I will need some kind of 510 adaptor for those.

Thanks for any input and apologies if I have asked a question that has already been answered here!

 

[vaperature]

Sure, it'll take any 18650 battery. I'm quite sure it will be 510 compatible, they hardly make anything else these days. It'll run at 3.7v so should work fine with your protanks.

 

[lirruping]

Sure, it'll take any 18650 battery. I'm quite sure it will be 510 compatible, they hardly make anything else these days. It'll run at 3.7v so should work fine with your protanks.

Thanks, vaperature. Derp, I just re-realized that the mini protanks are both 510 and ego threaded, so i can see they will probably be fine.

When I had an e-lvt, I was instructed by the vendor that only a nipple top battery would do for it, which is the reason I asked whether that might make a difference here. Is there some type--nipple or flat--which is more standard, which I should lean to for mechanicals if I am not completely sure?

I'll have to look more into what constantly firing at 3.7 volts will mean in practical terms, for my vape. I am used to using an iStick, usually around 3-3.8 volts (at least as it reads on the iStick...and that is purportedly a little hot).

 

[vaperature]

Thanks, vaperature. Derp, I just re-realized that the mini protanks are both 510 and ego threaded, so i can see they will probably be fine.

When I had an e-lvt, I was instructed by the vendor that only a nipple top battery would do for it, which is the reason I asked whether that might make a difference here. Is there some type--nipple or flat--which is more standard, which I should lean to for mechanicals if I am not completely sure?

I'll have to look more into what constantly firing at 3.7 volts will mean in practical terms, for my vape. I am used to using an iStick, usually around 3-3.8 volts (at least as it reads on the iStick...and that is purportedly a little hot).

Oh wait, I may be wrong actually. The protank MINIS are ego threaded. Me thinks you will need an adapter after all.

 

[lirruping]

ok, double derp, in that case. thanks.

 

[vaperature]

ok, double derp, in that case. thanks.

Yeah, sorry, I was thinking protank, the minis are definitely ego threaded. You'll need a 510 to ego (or is it ego to 510) adapter.

 

[vaperature]

Here, this is where I got one when I needed it

http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/510-ego.htm

 

[Huckleberried]

Yep, you need an adapter for that. Vape shops carry them if there's one close by, or pick it up with your battery.

 

[lirruping]

Ah.. no. Alas, no vape shops nearby me, lol. But for the moment, I have the internet, so I will check it out and get one along with my battery somewhere. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[tcmx250]

I am offering no help at all as you seem to have all of your answers. I am stooping by to say how SWEET that mod looks. I will be picking one up for me self now.

 

[JOLT74]

You'll be firing at 4.2v off a fresh charge so go based on that, you'll probably not wanna use a protank or any other sort of small tank like that on it either cuz you won't see great results, looks like it's time for you to start building

 

[vaperature]

You'll be firing at 4.2v off a fresh charge so go based on that, you'll probably not wanna use a protank or any other sort of small tank like that on it either cuz you won't see great results, looks like it's time for you to start building

Why 4.2v on a 3.7v battery?

 

[JOLT74]

Why 4.2v on a 3.7v battery?

3.7v is the minimum the battery should be fired at, 4.2v is what the fully charged battery will be firing

 

[vaperature]

3.7v is the minimum the battery should be fired at, 4.2v is what the fully charged battery will be firing

Hmmm. This I didn't know.

 

[JOLT74]

Hmmm. This I didn't know.

Well I'm glad I could inform you, this is crucial to know when building and things like that so you know what's a safe subohm for your ampage on a fresh charge

 

[vaperature]

Well I'm glad I could inform you, this is crucial to know when building and things like that so you know what's a safe subohm for your ampage on a fresh charge

I just thought it was always 3.7. I don't use mechs much nor do I sub-ohm very low, but it's still good to know.

 

[JOLT74]

I just thought it was always 3.7. I don't use mechs much nor do I sub-ohm very low, but it's still good to know.

Yeah its definitely just a good thing to know, even when using regulated mods, just to know all the right numbers

 

[lirruping]

You'll be firing at 4.2v off a fresh charge so go based on that, you'll probably not wanna use a protank or any other sort of small tank like that on it either cuz you won't see great results, looks like it's time for you to start building

Thanks for your input--this is just the sort of thing I need to know.. although it is unclear to me why 4.2 volts won't work for a protank. I'm guessing it's too much power and will tend to overheat/burn the juice?

It certainly IS time for me to start building. I actually have a Magma RDA, bought months ago and never used aside from my one failed attempt with the included, prebuilt coil, which I thought would be a good "training wheels" way to start. I attached it successfully to the RDA, but the resulting vape was just horrid--and on all levels of of power. I've since been warned against using factory coils by several people, so won't try that again.

I have all the ingredients I believe I need to make a coil myself: 28 and 32 gauge kanthal, a small drill bit for winding around, tweezers, a lighter, nail clippers, organic cotton. I'm planning to start with a single coil on the Magma and shoot for the high 1's - 1.6 - 1.8 ohms. I mean, that seems reasonable for my equipment--both the mechanical mod and my iStick, right?

 

[JOLT74]

Thanks for your input--this is just the sort of thing I need to know.. although it is unclear to me why 4.2 volts won't work for a protank. I'm guessing it's too much power and will tend to overheat/burn the juice?

It certainly IS time for me to start building. I actually have a Magma RDA, bought months ago and never used aside from my one failed attempt with the included, prebuilt coil, which I thought would be a good "training wheels" way to start. I attached it successfully to the RDA, but the resulting vape was just horrid--and on all levels of of power. I've since been warned against using factory coils by several people, so won't try that again.

I have all the ingredients I believe I need to make a coil myself: 28 and 32 gauge kanthal, a small drill bit for winding around, tweezers, a lighter, nail clippers, organic cotton. I'm planning to start with a single coil on the Magma and shoot for the high 1's - 1.6 - 1.8 ohms. I mean, that seems reasonable for my equipment--both the mechanical mod and my iStick, right?

Unregulated mods don't like high ohms, your protank will work just won't produce much vapor/good vape and you'll start to go through coils in it quickly, sounds like you have everything you need except an Ohms reader, that'll be crucial especially if you're just starting out building, for your first build I'd suggest using the 28ga wire and shoot for around .7-.8 for a solid vape that is super safe and depending on the istick you have should work on that as well, depending on the size bit you have shouldn't be too hard to reach that output

 

[Browncoat]

Do yourself a favor and pick up a Coil Master. It will make your foray into building coils much smoother. This little tool takes all the frustration of building perfect coils out of the equation. Also check out Coil Toy, an online calculator for coil building (they also have apps for your phone).

Don't be intimidated. I think coil building scares people away because they're afraid of blowing something up. Stay within the confines of your battery, and you'll be fine.

 

[lirruping]

Do yourself a favor and pick up a Coil Master. It will make your foray into building coils much smoother. This little tool takes all the frustration of building perfect coils out of the equation. Also check out Coil Toy, an online calculator for coil building (they also have apps for your phone).

Don't be intimidated. I think coil building scares people away because they're afraid of blowing something up. Stay within the confines of your battery, and you'll be fine.

Thanks for the encouragement, V4p3r I have seen coil toy, actually, and was using it to plan my coil!

I am intimidated less by the idea of blowing myself up than I am by simple lack of experience combined with lack of manual dexterity and failing eyesight. (I have arthritis and what is prolly age-related vision degradation). So, when I get some time and space to myself--assuming THAT ever happens, lol--with good light, ibuprofen and a pair of readers, I should be able to pull off a decent coil. I do so wish someone was here to hold my hand, but I've put it off far too long, so it's time to get down to it!

Unregulated mods don't like high ohms, your protank will work just won't produce much vapor/good vape and you'll start to go through coils in it quickly, sounds like you have everything you need except an Ohms reader, that'll be crucial especially if you're just starting out building, for your first build I'd suggest using the 28ga wire and shoot for around .7-.8 for a solid vape that is super safe and depending on the istick you have should work on that as well, depending on the size bit you have shouldn't be too hard to reach that output

I was unaware that relatively high, or non-sub ohms (1.6--1.8.) on a mechanical would cause me to run through coils quickly and provide an inferior vape in the ways you describe. Will this be true if using those same "high ohms" on any other non RDA/RTA topper? I don't want to bog you down with questions, but if you could say a little bit about how/why it will produce less vapor & be harder on coils in this situation, I'd appreciate it.

 

[lirruping]

Also, can I use my iStick (20 watt) as an ohms reader? That was my plan. My favorite feature of the iStick, in fact, is that it is constantly giving you feedback about resistance, voltage and power. You don't have to press any extra buttons--the information is all just there in the course of vaping. And you can get the resistance measurement just by screwing the atty on--you don't have to press anything, it just shows up.

 

[JOLT74]

Also, can I use my iStick (20 watt) as an ohms reader? That was my plan. My favorite feature of the iStick, in fact, is that it is constantly giving you feedback about resistance, voltage and power. You don't have to press any extra buttons--the information is all just there in the course of vaping. And you can get the resistance measurement just by screwing the atty on--you don't have to press anything, it just shows up.

Yes you can 100% use your istick as an Ohms reader and the difference when using a high ohm tank like the protank on a regulated mod is that you can adjust the power of the mod to give you a good vape thats right for the tank whereas on an unregulated mod, the mod gives it's power based off the resistance of the coil because that's now the conductor of heat hence burnt coils or lack of output (At least that's basically what I was taught and live by), I'd never suggest going above .8-.9 on an RDA because you'll see a lack of performance due to the resistence.

 

[lirruping]

@V4P3R eMAG : about the coil master -- I have a small jig from fasttech, which came with a few rods as well.
It was about 1/5th the nineteen dollar price-tag of the item you linked (more in my ballpark) and from what I can tell from your ad, it will serve the same function? Not sure.

I was thinking I would try a few by hand first, so as not to over-complicate things as I'm not even sure how a coiling tool/jig helps other than to hold the wire still and straight. I bought the one I have on impulse, hoping it would eventually be useful.

 

[Mike H.]

Ive owned a nemesis mod and took a few hits with a little protank 2 mini on it...you really cant hold the fire button down very long before it gets warm in the tank...The protanks are more suited for the i stick than any mech mod.

The magma is more suitable for your new mod or some of the higher end tanks like a taifun or a kayfun etc...

Based on what the max amp of your battery is will determine the lowest ohms you can shoot for in a coil...Consider though its not the ohms but the gauge of the coil that determines really the amount of power you will need.

You can have x2 1.8 ohm coils..one built on 30g wire and the other on 26g wire...the 26g wire is going to pull more power from your battery to heat up the same as it did with less power on a smaller gauge wire.

Always use a battery with more capabilities than the coil you are going to build for better battery life and large margin of safety.

 

[lirruping]

Yes you can 100% use your istick as an Ohms reader and the difference when using a high ohm tank like the protank on a regulated mod is that you can adjust the power of the mod to give you a good vape thats right for the tank whereas on an unregulated mod, the mod gives it's power based off the resistance of the coil because that's now the conductor of heat hence burnt coils or lack of output (At least that's basically what I was taught and live by), I'd never suggest going above .8-.9 on an RDA because you'll see a lack of performance due to the resistence.

This is my (extremely basic) understanding, too.
So...ok, then: because higher resistance/ohms coils (in the case of a protank factory coil, 1.8.-2.2 range) will pull more power from the battery on an unregulated mod, they will tend to overheat, burning the juice and stressing the coil?
If this is true, it's disappointing becasue I love my little mini protanks, but very important info to have. I would have hated to have to find this out with a day or two of awful vapes.

 

[Browncoat]

@V4P3R eMAG : about the coil master -- I have a small jig from fasttech, which came with a few rods as well.
It was about 1/5th the nineteen dollar price-tag of the item you linked (more in my ballpark) and from what I can tell from your ad, it will serve the same function? Not sure.

Same function? Yeah, basically. But...

I have one of those traditional coil jigs also, and IMHO it's not really much different from wrapping by hand. The Coil Master is far easier. It requires practically no effort, because the tool does all the hard work for you. You noted that you have arthritis, and many Coil Master users who have issues with their hands have said that it's much easier with the tool. There are other threads on this forum about it.

While it serves the same purpose, the Coil Master is really in a league of its own.

 

[lirruping]

Ive owned a nemesis mod and took a few hits with a little protank 2 mini on it...you really cant hold the fire button down very long before it gets warm in the tank...The protanks are more suited for the i stick than any mech mod.

The magma is more suitable for your new mod or some of the higher end tanks like a taifun or a kayfun etc...

Based on what the max amp of your battery is will determine the lowest ohms you can shoot for in a coil...Consider though its not the ohms but the gauge of the coil that determines really the amount of power you will need.

You can have x2 1.8 ohm coils..one built on 30g wire and the other on 26g wire...the 26g wire is going to pull more power from your battery to heat up the same as it did with less power on a smaller gauge wire.

Always use a battery with more capabilities than the coil you are going to build for better battery life and large margin of safety.

Thanks, Mike. This really valuable info, and I think I even mostly understand it.

Always use a battery with more capabilities than the coil you are going to build for better battery life and large margin of safety <-- This seems like excellent advice. I'm reading this as: always use a battery that has more power than any possible draw you're going to create with the coil you build. I think I get it.

I have to run ATM, but hope to return in a few hours to ask a question or two. Thanks, everyone, for your help. You guys are awesome! I know a lot of this info is available other places, but it's really helpful to me to be able to dialogue with someone.

 

[JOLT74]

This is my (extremely basic) understanding, too.
So...ok, then: because higher resistance/ohms coils (in the case of a protank factory coil, 1.8.-2.2 range) will pull more power from the battery on an unregulated mod, they will tend to overheat, burning the juice and stressing the coil?
If this is true, it's disappointing becasue I love my little mini protanks, but very important info to have. I would have hated to have to find this out with a day or two of awful vapes.

Basically your mod battery is gunna put out more power than those protank coils can handle and is gunna make them overheat/burn and not give a good vape, best bet is always RDAs on mech mods

 

[Mike H.]

This is my (extremely basic) understanding, too.
So...ok, then: because higher resistance/ohms coils (in the case of a protank factory coil, 1.8.-
2.2 range) will pull more power from the battery on an unregulated mod, they will tend to overheat, burning the juice and stressing the coil?
If this is true, it's disappointing becasue I love my little mini protanks, but very important info to have. I would have hated to have to find this out with a day or two of awful vapes.

To elaborate a bit more...2.2 ohms will ask for more power simply because its a higher resistance to heating up...Same principle with the 1.8 ohm scenario i mentioned but slightly different as well.

A 32g 2.0 ohm may not pull more power than a 1.8ohm 26g wire despite being less resistance.

On my Mvp 20 watt i made 2 different coils from 30g wire...A 1.3 ohm with 5 wraps and a 2.7 ohm with 13 wraps..Because i used more wire despite the gauge staying the same i needed more power to fire it.

Had i used 28g for either coil i would need more power despite resistance...26 even more power and so on.

So with small gauge wire at 2.0ohms its not a huge difference in power needed untill wire gauge goes up.

Basicly, voltage and resistance equals wattage..the lower the resistance with the same voltage equals more power...the more voltage you supply the more wattage as well.

You can fire anything you can put on you mech mod from .2 to 2.5 ohms or higher..The kanger protanks only have so much build room inside the coil head,so its limited really on making a reliable coil to use very low resistance wire (or thicker gauge) for a coil build and use the full potential of the mod.

Use those protanks on that i stick with some 1.8 ohm 30g builds for great results from you protank...you should find around 8 watts the sweet spot...If you want more clouds get the kanger v3 air flow controller that replaces the restrictive 510 breather holes.

For the magma...start with 28g wire for 1.2 ohm and work down from there to find what you like....Try a 2.4mm or a 5/64 drill bit..Just use a quality battery...not a trustfire,crapfire,assonfire name with false advertisement claims.

Get yourself a respected 30 amp battery and you should be fine.

Invest in a decent charger as well...junk chargers can destroy your good battery investment and cause possible issues down the road...Ive used the nitecore i2 so far and it seems to be a good charger...not the best but not garbage either.

You want a sweet tank for your mech, then try the kanger subtank or aspire atlantis or e leaf lemo..those are suitable sub ohm tanks ready to rock and roll out of the box (not that you cant make improvements to some)...The kafuns and foggers and taifuns etc..also work better on mechs than the basic kanger tanks will.

 

[Bully dog]

If you need a visual aid to understanding coil building use UTUBE. RIP DRIPPER has some DIY tutorials to get you started. A good app that I use is the vapors toolbox which you can find in Google play store. All you need to do is plug in the type of coil and desired ohms from the drop boxes and it dose all the math and wrap count for you. The rest is easy from there.

 

[lirruping]

Mike, thanks for taking the time to write all this out.

Use those protanks on that i stick with some 1.8 ohm 30g builds for great results from you protank...you should find around 8 watts the sweet spot...If you want more clouds get the kanger v3 air flow controller that replaces the restrictive 510 breather holes.

I'll give this a shot--I'm planning on trying with the 32g I have based on a ruby roo tutorial I've downloaded.

For the magma...start with 28g wire for 1.2 ohm and work down from there to find what you like....Try a 2.4mm or a 5/64 drill bit..Just use a quality battery...not a trustfire,crapfire,assonfire name with false advertisement claims.

The battery I plan to use is this one. I have a 5/64th drill bit. Pretty sure I can use that size for the protank coils as well.

Get yourself a respected 30 amp battery and you should be fine.
Invest in a decent charger as well...junk chargers can destroy your good battery investment and cause possible issues down the road...Ive used the nitecore i2 so far and it seems to be a good charger...not the best but not garbage either.

I just ordered a nitecore i2 like three days ago, as it happens! The price was right--about 14 bucks on ebay.

You want a sweet tank for your mech, then try the kanger subtank or aspire atlantis or e leaf lemo..those are suitable sub ohm tanks ready to rock and roll out of the box (not that you cant make improvements to some)...The kafuns and foggers and taifuns etc..also work better on mechs than the basic kanger tanks will.

After I feel competent at coil building I'll think about investing in an RTA. I like everything I've read about them. For now, I'll work on building the magma at a relatively high sub-ohm level because I really am not interested in a super hot vape or massive clouds--I mostly want something to test DIY flavors as well as just learning some basic electrical stuff.

Everything you said in your post about the gauge of the wire combining with the resistance to effect the ultimate performance is still a little murky to me. Not because you didn't explain it beautifully, but because this stuff apparently doesn't click for me the way it does for some people. I will ruminate on it--and better yet, get some building experience. Once I actually get more hands on, and can see it in action, I expect these things will make more sense. Vaping's been like that in a lot of ways for me so far. I worry about the things I don't understand and over think it...and just keep putting off actually building. Soon...soon!

Anyway, thank you again!

 

[Mike H.]

I have to make a correction..i said 5/64 for the rda when i meant 3/32 or 2.4mm..For the protanks 1.8 to 2mm seems to be where most like it...32G will work fine for the protanks.

 

[Mike H.]

Mike, thanks for taking the time to write all this out.



I'll give this a shot--I'm planning on trying with the 32g I have based on a ruby roo tutorial I've downloaded.


The battery I plan to use is this one. I have a 5/64th drill bit. Pretty sure I can use that size for the protank coils as well.


I just ordered a nitecore i2 like three days ago, as it happens! The price was right--about 14 bucks on ebay.



After I feel competent at coil building I'll think about investing in an RTA. I like everything I've read about them. For now, I'll work on building the magma at a relatively high sub-ohm level because I really am not interested in a super hot vape or massive clouds--I mostly want something to test DIY flavors as well as just learning some basic electrical stuff.

Everything you said in your post about the gauge of the wire combining with the resistance to effect the ultimate performance is still a little murky to me. Not because you didn't explain it beautifully, but because this stuff apparently doesn't click for me the way it does for some people. I will ruminate on it--and better yet, get some building experience. Once I actually get more hands on, and can see it in action, I expect these things will make more sense. Vaping's been like that in a lot of ways for me so far. I worry about the things I don't understand and over think it...and just keep putting off actually building. Soon...soon!

Anyway, thank you again!

Youre welcome.

youll get it soon enough...coils were the first thing i learned to do..i simply followed a youtube video i understood the most that seemed somewhat clear and not alot of bs.

Its not complicated really...took me a few tries to make one coil i was happy with based on what i saw in the video but now i can do it with my eyes closed almost..Its a great way to save money and find the vape you like...for a simple coil ,its a piece of cake to keep yourself vaping...youll find micro coils and nano coils and chimney coils and all sorts of coils...I keep it somewhat simple with micro coils and easy to use tanks so far...Will be trying my hand at a kayfun and a taifun once they arrive...But love my kangers..would never just let those go for good...they always have a spot on my tank roster.

 

[lirruping]

I have to make a correction..i said 5/64 for the rda when i meant 3/32 or 2.4mm..For the protanks 1.8 to 2mm seems to be where most like it...32G will work fine for the protanks.

hmm... okies. Is there a common household object that will be around 3/32nds of an inch? I'm noticing with coil toy that to get to a 1.8 ohm coil with 28g on a 5/64ths I will need a LOT of wraps--like 13. But if I go to a smaller diameter, i'll need even more. I'm going to start with the iStick rather than the mechanical I originally mentioned. try to make a microcoil somewhere above 1.2--which is what I think is the lowest the iStick 20 watt will fire on.

 

[lirruping]

I love my mini protanks and my good old protank, too I have a ziploc full of burnt out single coil kangers I will be rebuilding once I get going. Do you happen to know if a single kanger coil will fit in an aerotank? I've heard conflicting reports. Some say extensive fiddling with the grommet is necessary to avoid them.

 

[Mike H.]

hmm... okies. Is there a common household object that will be around 3/32nds of an inch? I'm noticing with coil toy that to get to a 1.8 ohm coil with 28g on a 5/64ths I will need a LOT of wraps--like 13. But if I go to a smaller diameter, i'll need even more. I'm going to start with the iStick rather than the mechanical I originally mentioned. try to make a microcoil somewhere above 1.2--which is what I think is the lowest the iStick 20 watt will fire on.

Go to your local walmart and pick up a cheap set of precision screw drivers...those are whats most commonly used to wrap coils with as well as drill bits but the screw drivers have a place to push the coils together when making one.

Ive only played with 30g wire so far and a little 32g..so i cant comment on the 28g wire just yet.

For the i stick i would try to keep the wire as thin as you can...20 watts is fine with thinner guage wire but as you go up on gauge like i mentioned you will need more power than usual to fire it which then decreases battery life between charges and works the battery a little harder in general...for the protanks i wouldnt go more than 30g...you really dont need more than that..28g tends to be thick enough to sometimes cause leaks around the insulator as its quite a bit thicker than the 32g wire normally used from the factory...If you meant 28g for a dripper than disregard my last statement..lol

26g is another option for the dripper...not really into drippers really just trying to lead you to walk the shallow end before jumping in head first in the deep end with the mech set up.

 

[Anus Braun]

Thanks, vaperature. Derp, I just re-realized that the mini protanks are both 510 and ego threaded, so i can see they will probably be fine.

When I had an e-lvt, I was instructed by the vendor that only a nipple top battery would do for it, which is the reason I asked whether that might make a difference here. Is there some type--nipple or flat--which is more standard, which I should lean to for mechanicals if I am not completely sure?

I'll have to look more into what constantly firing at 3.7 volts will mean in practical terms, for my vape. I am used to using an iStick, usually around 3-3.8 volts (at least as it reads on the iStick...and that is purportedly a little hot).

I hope your firing switch does'nt fail...three weeks into fairly heavy use, MY E-LVT switch did fail.

 

[lirruping]

That's precisely what happened--my firing switch failed on my e-LVT. In my case, the malfunction was that the switch was constantly "on" regardless of whether it was being depressed, rendering the device useless. This happened 2-3 months into heavy usage. I liked it very much while it was working, but getting it replaced from sweetspotvapor.net has been an absolute nightmare. This is definitely a vendor to avoid.

Five months later, my not-quite-adequate replacement item--an MVP 2 in color PINK--is "in the mail". Naturally, there is no tracking number, so this could easily be another lie. We'll see. Interestingly, the thing that got them to respond to my calls and email was telling him recently that since he didn't seem to be receiving my communications, I would try writing him an open letter on VU and ECF.

A pink MVP is not what I want; it is not an item of equivalent value--but I wasn't given choices and it's better than nothing for the original 60+ dollar pricetag plus the cost of insurance policy and return shipping. If he has indeed sent it to me, it will save the mf from a thorough public reaming in Hall of Shame. But do yourself a favor and stay far away from Tennessee-based sweetspotvapor.net aka "Vape Guys" aka "Mel's Diner". (Yeah, this is the PSA abbreviated version).

 

[Anus Braun]

That's precisely what happened--my firing switch failed on my e-LVT. In my case, the malfunction was that the switch was constantly "on" regardless of whether it was being depressed, rendering the device useless. This happened 2-3 months into heavy usage. I liked it very much while it was working, but getting it replaced from sweetspotvapor.net has been an absolute nightmare. This is definitely a vendor to avoid.

Five months later, my not-quite-adequate replacement item--an MVP 2 in color PINK--is "in the mail". Naturally, there is no tracking number, so this could easily be another lie. We'll see. Interestingly, the thing that got them to respond to my calls and email was telling him recently that since he didn't seem to be receiving my communications, I would try writing him an open letter on VU and ECF.

A pink MVP is not what I want; it is not an item of equivalent value--but I wasn't given choices and it's better than nothing for the original 60+ dollar pricetag plus the cost of insurance policy and return shipping. If he has indeed sent it to me, it will save the mf from a thorough public reaming in Hall of Shame. But do yourself a favor and stay far away from Tennessee-based sweetspotvapor.net aka "Vape Guys" aka "Mel's Diner". (Yeah, this is the PSA abbreviated version).

Dammit, YOU got stuck with what they had ordered too many of...paint it, or claim "Breast Cancer Awareness"..

 

[lirruping]

Dammit, YOU got stuck with what they had ordered too many of...paint it, or claim "Breast Cancer Awareness"..

Yeah, good idea. I'll have to look into what a good type of paint would be. Acrylic, maybe? I don't actually loathe the color pink like a lot of people do, but it's not really my thing.

 

[Anus Braun]

Yeah, good idea. I'll have to look into what a good type of paint would be. Acrylic, maybe? I don't actually loathe the color pink like a lot of people do, but it's not really my thing.

Appliance enamel. The TOUGH part, masking off the switches...

 

[Number3124]

Just a heads up. Those LG batteries are not 35 amp cells. They're 20 amp cells. They're good batteries. Don't get me wrong. They just aren't 35 amp cells.