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Cant get TC working on my Lemo v2 + Xcube.

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hi people. I have a small issue regrding TC.

I was enjoying it so much on my xcube 2 with a dripper, I decided to make my lemo TC. I made the coil 0.07 Ohms. It works for two seconds, then goes to watt mode, it wont work.

I tried it on my IPV D2, it works fine.

Anyone got any idea what is going on here? Bit annoying, if not i will try the subtank TC with 30 gauge instead of 26, see if that works better.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok, I was wrong, it is not working correctly on the IPV either, burnt tastes. Maybe if I go from 10 wraps of 26 gauge to less wraps of 30 gauge with a smaller diameter to get more wraps in it will work. Its past midnight now though, so I will try tommorow.

Or Is TC just really meant for drippers? As I thought it would be nice to control it on a tank too.
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have a TI build in my Lemo 2 at the moment - works well. But TC is tricky - the coil has to be perfect or you'll get errors. Mine is a 3mm coil with 26 gauge TI. I wouldn't use 30 gauge wire unless you want to do a ton of wraps that won't fit LOL
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have a TI build in my Lemo 2 at the moment - works well. But TC is tricky - the coil has to be perfect or you'll get errors. Mine is a 3mm coil with 26 gauge TI. I wouldn't use 30 gauge wire unless you want to do a ton of wraps that won't fit LOL
Hang on, with 30 gauge it is Less wraps than 26 gauge isn't it according to the steam engine calculator? Around 5 wraps vs 10 for the 26 gauge?
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
correct. 30 Gauge is kind soft and will when you coil it.
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hang on, with 30 gauge it is Less wraps than 26 gauge isn't it according to the steam engine calculator? Around 5 wraps vs 10 for the 26 gauge?

Ah sorry - I was thinking backwards LOL I would hate to work with 30 gauge Ni though...:eek:
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
correct. 30 Gauge is kind soft and will when you coil it.
Ah sorry - I was thinking backwards LOL I would hate to work with 30 gauge Ni though...:eek:
Zamazam, have you tried tempered NI200? It works quite like kanthal as it is stiffer due to the tempering, its all I will use as it is so much easier! It's actually whats running in my el cabron dual coil (Dual coil at 26 gauge was silly wraps. Even with 30 gauge it was 16 wraps, but it is what has worked best so far, made me realise what I am missing.

Amanda, Dw I get things backwards alll the time lol (apart from when building, I triple check to be safe) :)

Well, I tried 30 gauge on my lemo V2. Still same issue, burnt hits, and it was around 0.12 I got the coil at.
I run TC on my Lemo 2 just fine, in fact I just posted a new build I worked out specifically for TC on a Lemo 2

This, might just be what I need. Thank you emberwilde :).
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hahahha, I've gone and done it! I used Emberwilde's guide as a help, and realised I was using far too litttle wick (Where I had been using other tanks that require less, I forgot the lemo needs quite a bit).

I am not sure if that was what was causing it to fail, but I am enjoying a tankful of chocolate fudge brownie on my Lemo V2 and SMOK Xcube 2 :).
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Only thing is now this is setup for TC, I don't have a tank I really trust for my mech (standard 510). The subtanks RDA is very close to the edge of the metal surround, so I have had it touch that once and not work on me. I am not sure if that is a short, as I just got the "check atomiser" message and not SHORT!!!! that comes up usually, but I think my orchid should be OK for my mech, 0.6 Ohms, and that has never had shorting issues, so I guess I will use that on my mech, Or get ANOTHER subtank, maybe a different version this time for it?
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok I was not really at first impressed that on the smok you do not set wattage, just min, soft, regular, hard, and max.

I find on soft it works perfectly, connected to bluetooth the watts actually jump around to get it to temp, and when at temp puts out like 9 to keep it at that temp, and it continues to produce, and there is NO dry hits at all.

I am using my sigelei, and at 35 Watts and 240C, you can detect the smallest hint of dry hit. I am going to test the IPV next, see how well that performs with the dripper, and if it has better/worse TC than the Sigelei. But, The smok seems to top them all, with no dry hit at all, so much so you can forget to redrip as there is no burn at ALL.

I think just setting the temp is actually better, and letting the device control wattage itself works better, at least with the mods I have it does. (so far, I am going to test the IPV D2 now)

EDIT: Ok, the IPV D2 does the TC better than the sigelei, I would say on par with the Xcube 2. I am using that at 30 Joules/watts (Chinese just converted watts into joules with no changes, just renamed it, so 1 watt is one joule.

I think it is my most impressive TC device, although I think they are all great devices. From now on I see no reason not to make the majority of my builds with NI200 and use TC, as 3 of my 6 mods can do it, I will keep some drippers and one tanks set up with kanthal (Most likely the subtank) and the rest NI200.

I am feel like I have met a revolution, Temp control that actuallly works for me, and I can enjoy MORE than standard watt mode due to know burning when juice gets low.

I love it.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I was wrong about the sigelei. WIth more testing, they all seem equal in all honesty. The TC works on all 3 great, so any of them people are thinking of getting are solid choices, just remember the sig only does NI200 though, the other 2 do Titanium as well.
 

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