Can anyone find the specs on this battery? iStick30 Replacement

[hmacias]

I pulled this

battery from my iStick30 and replaced it with this

. Just curious as to what the real specs are on the factory iStick30 battery are.

 

[Jaaxx]

Sorry can't help you with the original specs. However the NCR18650BD should work fine, although you are pushing it a bit at the highest possible setting. At 30 watts with a 0.4 ohm coil you would be drawing about 8.7 amps which is below the max discharge rate (10A), but not by much. I like to have at 30-40% headroom.
That being said, I may just look at those batteries when it comes time to replace mine. The extra capacity would be nice.

 

[Hermit]

The crucial point will be just before the istick shuts off from low battery. We don't know where that is - a cautious guess would be 3V. 30W at 3V would be 10A drawn from the battery (without allowing for inefficiencies in the istick, which could be, say, 5%).

I suspect that eleaf cut things pretty fine on the battery specs for the 30W - wouldn't be surprised if it's the same battery that the 20W had!

That said, if using less than the full 30W or if the cutoff is higher than 3V then you have something of a margin

 

[hmacias]

The crucial point will be just before the istick shuts off from low battery. We don't know where that is - a cautious guess would be 3V. 30W at 3V would be 10A drawn from the battery (without allowing for inefficiencies in the istick, which could be, say, 5%).

I suspect that eleaf cut things pretty fine on the battery specs for the 30W - wouldn't be surprised if it's the same battery that the 20W had!

That said, if using less than the full 30W or if the cutoff is higher than 3V then you have something of a margin

The low voltage cutoff on the iStick30 is 3.3V.

 

[Hermit]

The low voltage cutoff on the iStick30 is 3.3V.

Cool, that's handy to know, thanks

 

[SteveZ]

Just curious, how are you connecting the NCR to the positive and negative leads? Not sure this is safe, but are you just soldering the leads straight to the battery or are you doing something else to keep the battery and wires in place?

 

[Jaaxx]

I've soldered to flat tops many times making battery packs for photography. Trick is a very good high wattage iron (Hakko, etc) and a high mass tip. You gotta get in there and get out as quickly as possible. Everything pre-tinned and lots of flux.

 

[SteveZ]

Interesting and nice to know you can do that when the built-in battery gives out in an iStick.

 

[hmacias]

Jaaxx is completely right. I sanded the ends thoroughly without damaging the wrap. Pre-tinning so you don't heat the battery is key. Without the steps he listed then you may heat the battery and that's all kinds of risky. Only took me about 3 or 4 seconds to pre-tin and attaching the leads was almost instantaneous.

 

[Jaaxx]

So, the big question is how's the battery life so far?

 

[hmacias]

So, the big question is how's the battery life so far?

Just awesome! I vape my Subtank Mini at .5 ohms and 22watts and can easily empty over 2 tanks before a recharge so far. Was going to go a full week before I post results to be more accurate. Doing the math I should have about 30% more mAh but it seems like much more. I'm thinking the 2200mAh they claim from factory may not be entirely accurate. Also, the iStick30 warns of low battery at 10% but at 3200mAh that gives a much more comfortable 10%

 

[Jaaxx]

Yep, when new mine gave a surprising buffer after the low warning, but that lasted about a month. I'll be looking at these for mine this year I'm sure.