Yeah, the higher ohms were a go-to build for years.
I don't believe you will gain much w/ a larger build in those RBA's - 2mm is a solid ID.
I still have no BB-clone, and look for the an A-tank - I have to wonder if a regular tank can just be reamed out... And, dammit - my Triton RBA apparently tried to land Saturday, but they never posted it was out for delivery, so I left for work..
Now I am hoping the damned thing arrives tomorrow. I'd be willing to bet I have to go for a drive and find it myself. (I'm almost wondering if 3Fvape arrives before the local PO manages a redelivery) That signature-required jive really screws up the works.
Thanks for the reply.
On most other RBA/RTA setups I usually favor 3mm ID for my builds, and 2mm seems like a tiny amt of wicking inside...
Right now on the Insider, it is 2.5mm, and more than ~23w I get the start of dry hits if chain vaping, so I keep it ~20w and it's just nice.
I feel your pain on the shipping.
Vaporworld also sent the Triton RBA with signature required. I had to sign the slip and then go on usps.com and request redelivery, and thankfully it was left in the mailbox next day.
I built mine with a vertical coil with a 3.5mm ID on the tool included and as per the instructions in the kit and the video from Aspire on YT. The airflow is just great for me wide open on the Melo 3 Mini. The Tobeco Super Tank Mini can also use these coils, and I'm in half a mind to get one of those (~$20 now) due to the rave reviews and the ability to use this RBA head. I had the RTA version of the Super Tank and it was a leaky mess no matter what I did with the wicking, so I gave up on it. I prefer single coil anyway, and you can't really do single coil in an RTA with a velocity deck.
I used to rebuild the Kanger SSOCC coils, but had to do horizontal since I could never get the verticals to not short out, but the genius of the design of the Triton RBA is that one leg of the coil gets screwed in to the chimney section, so it does not have to go down to the same end as the other coil leg...
I was also thinking to drill out a standard boro tank, but if you look into the hole at the bottom, there is an o-ring embedded inside the hole, and I have no idea how to replicate that if that o-ring slot gets removed with a wider bore...maybe some kind of slot-cutter thing rigged at a 90-degree angle in the dremel?
I dunno...but I can measure the hole needed by measuring the outer diameter of the Triton RBA where it would sit in the tank, and then maybe stay .5mm inside that diameter for a snug fit, because surely I don't want this to leak all over the inside of the BB...
your thoughts are welcome on any of this