Basic MOSFET wiring

[Wabah58]

Welcome to the thread @BrattVapes look forward to seeing what you come up with. Lot of questions there so let me try and keep my answers short to stay on topic.

YES, Try and stick with the N channel mosfet, Could go further into the topic but lets start off with simple proven application.

Most of us are using heat shrink to keep parts from touching causing shorts. Some use it to bolster the looks of the box inside. I tend to just use what is necessary, like the legs of the mosfets, if it's real tight i use more over the mosfet. Plastic boxes I just use on fet legs. Tape will work ok if you are not concerned about looks, but heatshrink is the preferred method.

You MUST have the resistor working on that mosfet. That is used for closing the gate very fast after you let go of switch. With out it will let voltage through after button is pressed. MUST USE RESISTOR!!!

 

[BrattVapes]

Welcome to the thread @BrattVapes look forward to seeing what you come up with. Lot of questions there so let me try and keep my answers short to stay on topic.

YES, Try and stick with the N channel mosfet, Could go further into the topic but lets start off with simple proven application.

Most of us are using heat shrink to keep parts from touching causing shorts. Some use it to bolster the looks of the box inside. I tend to just use what is necessary, like the legs of the mosfets, if it's real tight i use more over the mosfet. Plastic boxes I just use on fet legs. Tape will work ok if you are not concerned about looks, but heatshrink is the preferred method.

You MUST have the resistor working on that mosfet. That is used for closing the gate very fast after you let go of switch. With out it will let voltage through after button is pressed. MUST USE RESISTOR!!!

Thank you. I suppose I'm trying to cut the corner here with electrical tape. I'm ballin on a budget here a little bit.... So we will see if I do use the heat wrap.

I'll be using a resistor I just didn't see it in the wiring diagrams so I was confused.. Is there a specific one you use? I will be using a N fet I have no desire to deal with P's. Thanks very much I can tell you have knowledge here. Glad to be able to benefit

 

[Wabah58]

I outlined in yellow the resistor 15k 1/4 watt ot 1/2 watt will work too just fine.

 

[Wabah58]

@BrattVapes There are a few places that will sell you all the components so you don't have to pay huge shipping from lot of different places for just 1 or 2 boxes. The kits are a little pricey but a good option for a guy just building a couple for his self.

http://berkshireboxmods.com/product/mahogany-g-d-i-y-kit/

http://modcrate.myshopify.com/

 

[Mau]

Modcrate. . Russel.

 

[BrattVapes]

Well everything's ordered. My items will be here Friday. I will probably be building this coming Monday! Very excited!

HUGE thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread here and an even bigger thanks to @Wabah58 for putting up with all of my questions. Without you guys this wouldn't be a reality. More news to come!


For those wondering I did go with a Hammond B box as I felt this would give me more room for my first box mod, in that cobalt blue. Black switch black fd 510 V4. Should be pretty sweet when I'm done!

 

[Wabah58]

We will be needing to see pics

 

[BrattVapes]

We will be needing to see pics

There will be pics, however it might not be as pretty as I hope

We'll see what I can do!

 

[Mau]

As long as it is fun the design and improvement factor follows


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[Max Misawa]

IRF makes an Automotive Grade 3034
I dunno which one would be considered more "rugged" ???
Coming from a mil-spec back ground
I'm not too keen on the idea of using parts from Home Depot
Wiring and building material intended to build houses and what not is not made with vibration in mind
I wouldn't want my mod to stop working just because I dropped it a few times or was a little rough with it

 

[Mau]

Here is some guideline for the search of good mosfet. Hope it is helpfull. Thnxs. Goes to mike kelly. Alias relayer 73 or 74. Dunno.

 

[ajaymes2001]

Just a couple of pics of my first 2 clear mods...

 

[BrattVapes]

Very nice @ajaymes2001 !!!! USB charger and all!! Good stuff man

 

[bkind]

So what would be the down side if I accidentally soldered my spring loaded 510 so its no longer springy? Or do I now have a fixed 510? Is there a way to fix it? I knew I should have stopped when I was starting to get tired! Thanks for your help kind folks.

 

[Wabah58]

So what would be the down side if I accidentally soldered my spring loaded 510 so its no longer springy? Or do I now have a fixed 510? Is there a way to fix it? I knew I should have stopped when I was starting to get tired! Thanks for your help kind folks.

That happens mostly when little too much solder is used on the 510 pin. The solder flows out of the hole past the lip then the spring has less room to spring. Happens a lot on the cheaper 510's with the long springs too. If it fires your atty's and don't bother you use it. If it won't fire and bothers you try and re heat that 510 pin to get rid of the solder that has formed up outside the hole (If that indeed is the problem)

 

[BrattVapes]

Hey guys - posting up the build I did!!! Came out great

Special thanks to wabah - really the one who made it possible for me. Thanks to everyone posting up information on this site.... So glad to have popped my builders cherry

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

 

[bkind]

That's awesome! I almost have mine done. I'm having trouble with the 510 soldering properly. I think I may need 1) a new 510 and 2) a smaller gauge wire to get it done correctly. I'm using 14 solid gauge at the moment. As I posted last night I totally soldered it shut. It was so frustrating tonight to get the damn thing to make a connection I walked away and decided a fatdaddy order is in my future! Thanks for listening to my rant! Again congrats on your first build!

 

[bkind]

This is where I'm at so far.

 

[Wabah58]

 

[Mau]

That's awesome! I almost have mine done. I'm having trouble with the 510 soldering properly. I think I may need 1) a new 510 and 2) a smaller gauge wire to get it done correctly. I'm using 14 solid gauge at the moment. As I posted last night I totally soldered it shut. It was so frustrating tonight to get the damn thing to make a connection I walked away and decided a fatdaddy order is in my future! Thanks for listening to my rant! Again congrats on your first build!

For thick wires. Like the 12g stranded or 14g. I use the cutoff tabs from the keystone batterie sled you know. The ones you break off. I solder them on the 510 positif. Sometimes using a thin copper screw with th e plating

 

[Wabah58]

For thick wires. Like the 12g stranded or 14g. I use the cutoff tabs from the keystone batterie sled you know. The ones you break off. I solder them on the 510 positif. Sometimes using a thin copper screw with th e plating

Do you have a picture of that? Sounds interesting.

 

[Mau]

Yes wabah. .

 

[Wabah58]

Nice work @Mau

 

[bkind]

Thank you for the video and for the idea of using the battery tabs. Would have never gotten there in a million years! When the new one comes in I will be sure to re watch the video and maybe even use the tab cause that seems crazy simple! Thanks again kind folks!

 

[Max Misawa]

this should be a lot easier to look at
its only 5 Parts

Battery
Mosfet
Switch
510 connector
USB charge port

 

[Max Misawa]

I want to use a micro switch in my setup
Instead of all those big ugly buttons most people are using

I am planning on making a mod box that is somewhat slim in design
so I am thinking of running a 25A relay but I might be running out of space already
:/

 

[Mau]

Mosfet with 15k resistor most switches can handle it

 

[Max Misawa]

Are you sure?
I am planning to use a 1/4 -40 size micro switch

 

[BrattVapes]

Are you sure?
I am planning to use a 1/4 -40 size micro switch

The switch doesn't take on the amp load when you have a MOSFET in the circuit. The mosfet takes on the load allowing you to use pretty much any switch you can desire and fit in your enclosure.

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[Mau]

Do your math. About current coming through the switch. And you know the boundarys of the fireswitch ratings. Then check the specs of your microswitch or what ever ya wanna use. Btw. I wouldnt use micro switch. I would use tactile buttons or the buttons of mitec

 

[Mau]

Ok let me help you out.
4.2V / 15Kohm = 0,00028A. Is. 0.28mA
Sooo. Not very much.
Hope it help ya out.

 

[Max Misawa]

I have a bunch of (NKK mb-2411) micro switches
I got them for .50¢ each from a local electronics surplus depot
28V 3A rating
Size and feel where what I was most concerned about
being dirt cheap didn't hurt either

 

[Mau]

If size matters i would recommend the tactile buttons. In the same tupe there is also mitec. But with the look of. Antivandal button

 

[Max Misawa]

I don't like the look of those mitec buttons
a tactile switch might work
ATM the mb-2411 is a lot easier to mount in my application
just directly epoxy to the interior of my mod box

I like the look of these type of buttons
something that should be familiar to most of us

 

[fisherman]

That's awesome! I almost have mine done. I'm having trouble with the 510 soldering properly. I think I may need 1) a new 510 and 2) a smaller gauge wire to get it done correctly. I'm using 14 solid gauge at the moment. As I posted last night I totally soldered it shut. It was so frustrating tonight to get the damn thing to make a connection I walked away and decided a fatdaddy order is in my future! Thanks for listening to my rant! Again congrats on your first build!

Make sure you are using Flux. It immensely helps with drawing in the solder

 

[fisherman]

That's awesome! I almost have mine done. I'm having trouble with the 510 soldering properly. I think I may need 1) a new 510 and 2) a smaller gauge wire to get it done correctly. I'm using 14 solid gauge at the moment. As I posted last night I totally soldered it shut. It was so frustrating tonight to get the damn thing to make a connection I walked away and decided a fatdaddy order is in my future! Thanks for listening to my rant! Again congrats on your first build!

Make sure you are using Flux. It immensely helps with drawing in the solder

 

[BrattVapes]

Make sure you are using Flux. It immensely helps with drawing in the solder

Good advice. Wish I had used some on my first box. Was my first use of solder, definitely would help. Plan to grab some up for the impending next box build. There's always another


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[Minamus]

So i'm following the second part of this http://vapingunderground.com/threads/my-diy-7-4v-mod-builds-enter-the-fun.101008/#post-542877 for the lipo box and i wanted to build it with a higher power battery probably a 11.1v. I know this is more power and i'm probably getting a 1590BS box for the 30mm 510 connector and for the size of the battery. However, does anyone know if i would need to switch to a larger wire or different setup including the switch or can that setupo handle it?

 

[Mau]

So i'm following the second part of this http://vapingunderground.com/threads/my-diy-7-4v-mod-builds-enter-the-fun.101008/#post-542877 for the lipo box and i wanted to build it with a higher power battery probably a 11.1v. I know this is more power and i'm probably getting a 1590BS box for the 30mm 510 connector and for the size of the battery. However, does anyone know if i would need to switch to a larger wire or different setup including the switch or can that setupo handle it?

You are trying to build a. Mosfet box with a 3s lipo. That is not wise to do. you are going to fire unregulated. A fully charged batterie on 12.6 volt. Meaning youre coils have to be reaallly high (do your ohm law !!!!!!! ) If you still want that 3s then connect it with a pwm
Soo its not the wires you gonna need where i am worry about because the amps are lower in 2s or 3s. Again do your ohm law and you figure out what gauge wires you need at least.

 

[Mau]

@ minamus Before starting with lipo pls. If not done yet do your research about lipo. And use common sense. !!!!! I dont advise you to use 3s if you have never done lipo boxes before.

 

[Mau]

Sorrie again @ minamus. Not to encourage you. But this can happen if not used properly. Or when something in your box could. Make a leak in your pack. Or if not charged correctly or over-/ discharged the batterie

 

[Minamus]

I completely understand the battery and what it can handle. I will not drop it lower then .5 ohms which puts it at 317watts and 25.2amps which is well below the discharge rating of the battery (39 amps continuous and 52amps pulse 10 sec). With that much power the most ill be able to hit it is 4-5secs MAX maybe so i got that covered. I'm useing a specific charger for the battery sold by the company so i trust it and of course will not overcharge it because i do airsoft a lot and use similar packs so i do understand the charging as well. The only part i was worried is if 14gauge wire and the switch can handle it. Also just to be sure should i add a meter to the box so i can make sure the battery is not too low when i try to hit it?

 

[Mau]

Here is the ampacity (maximum amount of current) that each size of this silicon wire can handle. Keep in mind that this is just a rule of thumb as ambient temperature and air flow will make a difference.

08AWG 200 amps
10AWG 140 amps
12AWG 90 amps
14AWG 60 amps
16AWG 35 amps
18AWG 20 amps
20AWG 12 amps
22AWG 10 amps
These are turnigy wire hop its helpfull
I always use voltmeter with lipo easy cheap way to keep eye on discharging.
With a 15k resistor on your n fet 3034 almost any switch will do the job
Good to read you understand the lipo s


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[Minamus]

Thank you for that and for generally trying to watch out for me lol. With that much power its better to try to tech than to guess if they know what they are doing. I feel stupid but i'm at work and for some reason i cant get to the first page to see the diagram without my internet crashing. Can someone repost it W/ voltameter? Or just tell me where it goes in the wiring sequence?

 

[Mau]

Instead of the keystone the lipo comes in

 

[Mau]

 

[Wabah58]

Here is my professional schematic I drew for the last PWM box. AND it works It's a Wabah58 original

Just checkin in..

 

[Minamus]

So i have to use that slide for a voltmeter?

 

[Minamus]

Or can i just wire it directly to the +/- because it can handle up to 32v?

 

[Mau]

They use slide. To switch between diff voltage readings. Like. Voltdrop. Battery voltage. Its a choice. But not a must