Any idea why certain atties/wicking jobs send flavor/TH into overdrive?

[Giraut]

So I'm playing with my new Big Dripper atomizer, and I've finally found a wick arrangement that makes it perform like a champ with a single coil at low power. But... it's gone hysterical: it hits so hard that flavor production and throat hit are completely off the chart. It's so flavorful it makes me cough. It bothers me because I now have to find a way to tone it down two or three notches, and I can't quite think of a way to do that without messing up performances (yet).

It's not the first time this happens to me: every once in a while, I come across an atty that seems to go bonkers like that. Sometimes it's just machining oil residues that seem to resist my initial cleaning. But oftentimes, the craziness won't go away and I have to find a new way to mount it until the vape becomes reasonable and enjoyable.

Has anybody else experienced this?

 

[jae]

Good god pls advs how

 

[Smoky Blue]

pic of your setup..

 

[Giraut]

pic of your setup..

Well it's hard to see anything, because the wick is saturated with juice now. But there it is. I've marked the coil in blue, the inner strand of the wick in green, and the outer strand in yellow:

The inner strand sort of loops around the center post to collect juice on the unused side of the dual-coil deck, comes back under the coil, and gets jammed between the unused negative post and the flange. The outer strand doubles back on itself, goes over the inner strand and gets jammed between the unused negative post and the flange as well. The negative lead of the coil is used to press the wick against the bottom of the deck and lock everything in place.

I hope this makes sense

 

[MKPM]

That is easily the most bizarre wick job I've ever seen. Wick, regardless of material only needs to come into contact with the drip well to catch juice and take it to the coil. I can wick about 7 coils with that tapeworm you have going on there. I recommend cotton wicks as they are cheap, and do the job quite nicely with great wicking action. Seems like you are dry hitting more than anything with that arrangement. Also, the blue makes it look like your coils are not touching...if so, tighten that bad boy up.

 

[Brian33]

I got a clone Brass M16. With a Plume Veil clone. 7/8 wraps 26g .4ohms.
Got a Chimbus single parallel coil 7/8 wraps .7ohms.
Im about to pick up an Authentic Panzer Stainless steel. Actually im borrowing it right now.
Got a cheap Ultra Fire bat. Cant wait for them sony's

 

[MKPM]

I got a clone Brass M16. With a Plume Veil clone. 7/8 wraps 26g .4ohms.
Got a Chimbus single parallel coil 7/8 wraps .7ohms.
Im about to pick up an Authentic Panzer Stainless steel. Actually im borrowing it right now. View attachment 6888View attachment 6889
Got a cheap Ultra Fire bat. Cant wait for them sony's

????, I'm missing the relevance here

 

[Brian33]

????, I'm missing the relevance here

Whoops wrong thread.

But i suggest using cotton instead of the rope wick. It wicks better and gives better, clouds and flavor.

 

[Giraut]

I don't like cotton. I prefer silica, but it's a tad harder to get good wicking action out of it.

The purpose of the "tapeworm" is threefold:

- It provides as many wicking "shortcuts" near both ends of the coil to increase juice flow - lest it doesn't wick fast enough and the coil runs dry at higher power levels

- It's long enough to soften the blow of a dry hit, yet short enough to switch flavor reasonably quickly. I find when the wick is too short, I often start a puff fine, and then suddenly, without warning, *WHAM* - dry hit from hell. With a longer wick, I can feel it come before it hits full force, stop drafting and recharge the atty.

- It collects excess juice at the bottom of the deck (to a point), which helps prevent leaks through the air holes.

I like my tapeworms Whenever I get a new atty, I spend a little time trying to figure out the shortest wick and the most efficient wick route that'll keep the coil properly moist, without having to flood the deck with juice and kill performances (and increase leakage). When I find the right setup for a given atty, I just repeat it each time I recoil and I always get consistently good results. To each his own I guess...

 

[MKPM]

Then I guess there is no problem...must have misread your OP....happy vaping!

 

[Brian33]

I don't like cotton. I prefer silica, but it's a tad harder to get good wicking action out of it.

The purpose of the "tapeworm" is threefold:

- It provides as many wicking "shortcuts" near both ends of the coil to increase juice flow - lest it doesn't wick fast enough and the coil runs dry at higher power levels

- It's long enough to soften the blow of a dry hit, yet short enough to switch flavor reasonably quickly. I find when the wick is too short, I often start a puff fine, and then suddenly, without warning, *WHAM* - dry hit from hell. With a longer wick, I can feel it come before it hits full force, stop drafting and recharge the atty.

- It collects excess juice at the bottom of the deck (to a point), which helps prevent leaks through the air holes.

I like my tapeworms Whenever I get a new atty, I spend a little time trying to figure out the shortest wick and the most efficient wick route that'll keep the coil properly moist, without having to flood the deck with juice and kill performances (and increase leakage). When I find the right setup for a given atty, I just repeat it each time I recoil and I always get consistently good results. To each his own I guess...

Well in that case my point is pointless haha.
Hmmm how would dragon wicking work with silica it might cool down the coil better and still produce flavor and clouds

 

[Giraut]

Oh yes and I forgot: that convoluted setup of mine never dry-hits. It works great. A little too great in fact Hence my original question.

And yes, the loops in my coil aren't touching. I always leave a space between the loops: it makes dry-burns more efficient because it leaves a space for crud under the coil to get out. I've never seen any difference in performance with tight loops anyway, be it with silica or cotton. But that's just me.

 

[MKPM]

If it is too great...then make it less great! Food for thought.....we get crud between our teeth because there is a space between them.
My work is done here.....cheers!

 

[Giraut]

Dammit I can't quiet down the flavor. It's HARSH man... The best solution I could find is to draw slowly at 5W, or briskly at 10W, or flood the coil at 15W to get the amount of flavor/TH I'm after. I'm beginning to think that thing is really meant to run dual-coil at low power or nothing.

EDIT: I remounted it as a dual-coil setup - 34 gauge, 7.5-turn kanthal coils over 2.5mm silica. Beaucoup clouds at 10W, and flavor production is a bit less crazy. The real trouble with that setup is, the center screws tend to cut the thin kanthal wire in the post holes. Achieving a good electrical contact without damaging the coil's leads is tricky...