I was asking if I need to approach it differently if it's aluminum vs copper and why I would choose one over the other.umm one is aluminum and one is copper?
If the alum one is anodized it will need far less maintenance, however anodizing does cause a bit of voltage drop if the threads are anodized.
Plus copper is a much better conductor of electricity.
Thanks, bOOm! That is what I wanted to know.Copper may have less voltage drop than aluminum...with hybrid that may be old news.
Copper will tarnish and require more regular cleaning.
Aluminum threads are prone to stripping if not careful and on the other hand copper isn't all that durable if dropped.
That about sums it up...coin toss really either way.
Myself went with a brass limitless and a cerakoted copper rig v2.
Brass seems to be more durable and the cerakote keeps the matience down a bit
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks! I decided to go with the aluminum (/black) version. It certainly looks hot!No worries glad I could help, if your going to take it with you out and about I'd suggest stainless or maybe brass....copper to me is a house mod that won't be dropped on the concrete
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Both the aluminum and copper versions are the same price with the VGOD mech. I purchased the aluminum, so I guess we'll see how it goes! I'll come back with my "findings" once I have vaped on the mech.Also with almost every mech mod, brass and copper carry a bigger price tag over aluminum. Its about budget, safety, knowledge and end result. Not necessarily in that order
Yea vgod is an exception to the general rule. Some mods can jump as much as 100 bucks when going from aluminum to brass or copperBoth the aluminum and copper versions are the same price with the VGOD mech. I purchased the aluminum, so I guess we'll see how it goes! I'll come back with my "findings" once I have vaped on the mech.
Great. Thanks for your help! I'm definitely looking forward to getting it.By no means, no. Especially if its your first tube mod. Great price, hits pretty well and nice quality. I mean would my timekeeper or dominus hit harder, well yes. But those are also 300 bucks apiece. And I have to deal with all the polishing and cleaning of them.
Just find a build that best suites you and you'll def enjoy it!
Edit: nm.Not to mention, what kinda contacts are in the aluminum? Copper?
Yes. I've been vaping since last November on only regulated mods.What did you come from? Reg mod?
Give me some specs, wattage, coils, ohms etc. From that I can give you advice as to what kinda build you want to put in itYes. I've been vaping since last November on only regulated mods.
I have 10 mods, ranging from the Alien to my brand-new VGOD Pro 150. I have RDAs, RDTAs, RTAs and tanks with factory coils (like the Cloud Beast / King) and can do simple Clapton / Fused Clapton builds. I prefer to vape on dual coils at higher wattages for thick, dense clouds and good flavor. My usual ohms are between 0.15 and 0.25.Give me some specs, wattage, coils, ohms etc. From that I can give you advice as to what kinda build you want to put in it
Ok so your gonna have to build low to achieve that kinda think warm flavorful vape.I have 10 mods, ranging from the Alien to my brand-new VGOD Pro 150. I have RDAs, RDTAs, RTAs and tanks with factory coils (like the Cloud Beast / King) and can do simple Clapton / Fused Clapton builds. I prefer to vape on dual coils at higher wattages for thick, dense clouds and good flavor. My usual ohms are between 0.15 and 0.25.
I will be putting the VGOD Pro Drip on my mech and currently have 26ga Kanthal A1 and 38ga Kanthal A1.Since I build low for my tube mods, I use either 22g ni80 with 4 wraps ohms out at .1ish or I use 22g twisted ni80 4 wraps which gets me to .07ish. But my ultimate rowdy build is 18g ss316 with 4 wraps. That ohms out at .04ish
Thanks! Maybe I'll pick up some ni80 in the future and give it a go. For now I'll just be using what I have, which is the Kanthal.I would start at your .15 and go from there. Like I said, a .15 build on a mech tube mod is way different that a reg mod.
Kanthal I'm not to familiar with. I don't use it because of its ramp up time. To slow for my liking. My ss316 build is like straight rowdy, warm and flavor straight to my mouth hole and hits like mike tyson jacked up on coke
Yes. I prefer Fused Claptons with 2 or 3 core wires.Are you just Clapton the 2 Kanthal together?
So on a 2.5mm 4 wrap, your ohm out at .15ish. Good start.Yes. I prefer Fused Claptons with 2 or 3 core wires.
Great. I'll give that a go!So on a 2.5mm 4 wrap, your ohm out at .15ish. Good start.
That sounds good, too, and it's similar to my usual choice of build which is 3 core, 3mm 5 wrap. I'll do 4 wraps and see how it goes.Try a 3 core, 3mm 4 wrap. That will get you close to .11 ish
Ok so your gonna have to build low to achieve that kinda think warm flavorful vape.
Thanks for saying so, r055co. Knowing how to vape safely on my mech will come first before the first time I fire it up. If I'm not absolutely certain of what I'm doing I'm not going to do it.Bullshit
You can get a very responsive very warm, thick flavorful vape between 0.15Ω - 0.2Ω build. Building super sub-ohm under 0.1Ω is not only unnecessary but dangerous.
Let this sink in, 0.00Ω is a dead short and the most accurate Ohm meter was USA Ohm Meters and their published variance was 0.018Ω.
My go to is SS fused claptons around 28g - 30g core wire with 38g - 40g wrapper. A lot with Mech's is balancing wire mass, for single battery Mech's I stick around 0.17Ω, parallel I'm around 0.15Ω. When I want to get really rowdy I'll use my series Mod's around 0.4Ω - 0.5Ω.Thanks for saying so, r055co. Knowing how to vape safely on my mech will come first before the first time I fire it up. If I'm not absolutely certain of what I'm doing I'm not going to do it.
A functional dead short is above 0 ohms as you cannot have no resistance in the path.Bullshit
You can get a very responsive very warm, thick flavorful vape between 0.15Ω - 0.2Ω build. Building super sub-ohm under 0.1Ω is not only unnecessary but dangerous.
Let this sink in, 0.00Ω is a dead short and the most accurate Ohm meter was USA Ohm Meters and their published variance was 0.018Ω.
Thank you for your help! It is a single 18650 mech so I'll go by the ohms that you are recommending.My go to is SS fused claptons around 28g - 30g core wire with 38g - 40g wrapper. A lot with Mech's is balancing wire mass, for single battery Mech's I stick around 0.17Ω, parallel I'm around 0.15Ω. When I want to get really rowdy I'll use my series Mod's around 0.4Ω - 0.5Ω.
For me the key to a really thick flavorful vape is thin wrapping wire, that's why I stick between 38g-40g wrappers
Thank you for your help! It is a single 18650 mech so I'll go by the ohms that you are recommending.
Interesting chart! Good to know. If they are selling it in aluminum I'm guessing it is because it works fine in aluminum, so I'm not going to worry about it. Next time I'll probably going to go with copper, though, and see the difference for myself.Now back on topic, Aluminum vs Copper. Myself I prefer copper, you do get a better response and smoother vape. It's not a huge difference but most can tell.
Here's a chart of the conductivity
https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-electricity/
Insure you have good batteries, I highly recommend the Sony VTC5A's, 25a with 2600 mAh. They perform very well, actually they're Mooch's favorite 18650 and for good reason. Also be aware of how low you drain the batteries, you need to try not to go below 3.6V or 3.5V. You should easily be able to tell the difference but for the first month or so just pay attention to how low they get when you charge.
Any questions feel free to ping me
Cheers
So if you take a build say .15 on a reg device at 90 watts, then take that same build and put it on a tube mod, your gonna get a similar vape? Not even close. Its mostly subjective, but for me personally a .15 build (any material used) will not give me what I'm looking for out of a tube mod. Maybe I'm missing something. Please let me know.Bullshit
You can get a very responsive very warm, thick flavorful vape between 0.15Ω - 0.2Ω build. Building super sub-ohm under 0.1Ω is not only unnecessary but dangerous.
Let this sink in, 0.00Ω is a dead short and the most accurate Ohm meter was USA Ohm Meters and their published variance was 0.018Ω.
It's all a balancing act, wire mass, resistance, etc.So if you take a build say .15 on a reg device at 90 watts, then take that same build and put it on a tube mod, your gonna get a similar vape? Not even close. Its mostly subjective, but for me personally a .15 build (any material used) will not give me what I'm looking for out of a tube mod. Maybe I'm missing something. Please let me know.
Single battery, answered your PM with detailsIs my mech going to be in parallel or series? How can I tell?