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after 43 YEARS I am cigarette FREE!!!

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself & Tell Your Vaping Voyage' started by DaBunny, May 23, 2019.

  1. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    THANK YOU
    for the wonderful an simple explination. CUZ that makes sence
     
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  2. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Welcome for sure. Glad I could communicate it clearly enough. :) Been having some doubt in regards to communicating. Don't & won't anymore.
     
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  3. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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  4. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    My favorite metal for coils is Nichrome 80 (N80). I use stainless steel when I'm building an atty to put on a mod that I want to use temperature control.

    You shouldn't use Nichrome if you have nickel sensitivities.

    Cotton Bacon V2 or Prime is good for wicking. Also Japanese cotton (ko gen doh), just as good.

    Have you built coils before? Do you have tools? If not, try eBay, Avid Artisan vape toolkit for $23.99 has everything you'll need except a tank wrench, which will cost maybe another $3-5.
     
  5. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    Thank you and NO this is ALL NEW TO ME.
    yet I have read the rooms here
    and watch a TON of youtube vids.

    I just want to make sure I have the proper stuff to start.
     
  6. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    OKDOKY ordered the
    coil kit.jpg
    yet when you talk about a Tank wrench..
    HU???
    tank wrench.jpg
    Is that what you mean say the word an I click BUY NOW
     
  7. SteveS45

    SteveS45 Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    This is what I use.

    [​IMG]
    Paper towel or a rag prevents scratches or pits in the metal. Rubber is even better but who has a rubber sheet handy?
     
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  8. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    i have that
    {{Checking wrench off the shopping list}}

    yet this is STILL CONFUSING
    COILS.jpg

    I did not see the Nichrome 80 (N80)

    yet put in the shopping cart the Bacon Wick..

    so
    COLOR? I am very confused they are all silver, { so i assume it refers to gage }

    5 to choose from soooooooooooooooooooooo
    WHAT ONE??
     
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  9. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    well, yes - heh.. All wire is silver. Where was that from? LV is having a sale 30% off, but I am thinking I'll just slow boat from china and FT.

    And, I'd get or make a small "strap wrench" - I've got one of those goofy atty-wrenches and they don't fit ANYTHING.
     
  10. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    All those wires are Kanthal. Can you search for Lightning Vapes N80?

    Usually if you buy two spools (or two anything) you'll get 15% off.
     
  11. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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  12. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    give me a link like you did on that Kit
    THAT WAS idiot proof
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    said why I sit in the corner with a pointey hat
     
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  13. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    You will find that ni80 is similar to Kanthal A1 - Kanthal climbs ohms as it heats. I find myself using ni80 more of late because I gave away all my kanthal, but it's useful in things like really small chambers or on mechs.

    I use SS316L for .. everything.. It's that useful.
     
  14. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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  15. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Ok try eBay item numbers 301230622102 and 271560243965.

    Those are Lightning Vapes Nichrome 80 24 and 26 gauge.
     
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  16. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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  17. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    S'ok, I wasn't confused fatally, then.. Is she shopping ebay for this stuff

    Well, it depends on what you are doing. I'm not a "huge" fan of clapton - flaptons or "stapled" seem to deliver the most flavor in my RDA's.. I tend to use plain wire or simple claptons in tanks.

    If you are starting from scratch, then you really need fewer feet and more types from which to choose and experiment.
     
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  18. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    If you would, take a look at the two eBay item numbers I posted. Those two sizes will be good to start with for simple round-wire coils
     
  19. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    You can also make twisted and parallel coils with round wire, when you're ready for that.
     
  20. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    OK i am ordering MY FIRST rebuildible Tank.
    The Dead Rabbit
    [​IMG]

    this will goo onto a Big Box Mini battery. 40 65 80
    with a 510 connection

    and I have NO IDEA what I am doing..
    yet willing to learn
     
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  21. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    I have to reload the page I missed your post on numbers
    thanks

    so THIS
    wire.jpg

    right??
    do not mean to be so trouble some.
    I just REALLY don't wanna have

    THIS
    P1010008.JPG
    happen again

    if ya see what i mean.......
     
  22. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    BTW, the ebay sites are:
    OK, dead-bunny rta.. Dual-coil, (which I think is too complex for "learning", but fine).. Top airflow is a huge win.
     
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  23. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Yes, that, and they (same seller) also have 26 ga Nichrome 80 round wire that you should get, too, if you can. Two sizes will give you a choice, although it I had to choose only one, I would go with 24 ga.
     
  24. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Agree, a single-coil RTA would have been easier to start with. Intake would be perfect.
     
  25. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Or Serpent Elevate. yeah.. I understand keeping to the modern fat size.. Oh, another that would be available and work would be the Steam Crave Aromamizer Lite - single coil, straight and bubble glass. And, Vic's own Kelpie.
     
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  26. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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  27. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Regulated mods simplify life, but: nothing thinner than 28awg, and really, I never use my 24awg - at that point I throw in a flapton. Parallel 28 or 26 works too. Much fun in the learning.
     
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  28. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Yeah, that was why I listed FT and coilology - they are only 10' rolls, so they are cheap; and I've got two I like so I plan to add a few more this next order.
     
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  29. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Agree again, parallel 26 ga N80 or SS is a good coil, although that would get a little hot for me in a dual-coil atty.

    It never even occurred to me that the DR RTA was dual coil until you said something.
     
  30. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    banging her head in the wall.

    so much info...

    I HAVE NO Idea what any of this is...
    I just wanna keep life simple as possible..

    yet I LIKE DAT BUNNY can;t imageen why....................... lol lol lol

    so cotten check tool kit Check
    dat CRAZY bunny is in the basket
    and wire left to go BUY now on

    FLAVORS .. have them written down..

    my poor mind is just swimming....
     
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  31. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    You'll just need to do a little reading between now and then. When you build a dual-coil atty, the two coils you use need to be the same (gauge, wraps, ohms as close as possible) and two coils produce HALF the resistance of a single coil. So, if you have two coils that read at 0.8 ohms, the overall resistance of your dual-coil atomizer will be roughly 0.4 ohms.

    See if you can find a few videos about working with dual coils, and take a look at the coil calculator at http://www.steam-engine.org

    There you can select your metal, your wire size, the diameter of your coil, and the calculator will tell you how many wraps to use.

    Also - you will be running this on a regulated mod, correct?

    I would stay above 0.25 ohms for the two coils for sure, just to be sure you don't have issues with overworking your batteries. Batteries need to be good ones, too, authentic Samsumg, Sony, LG, Molicel, or Vapcell, with a continuous discharge rate of at least 20 amps. If you have any doubt about your batteries, go to Google and key the name of your battery brand and model plus the word "Mooch." Mooch is a guy who does real-world testing on all different kinds of batteries. He has uncovered all kinds of fakes and rewraps that are not what they are supposed to be, and those batteries are dangerous.
     
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  32. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    I really, truly, strongly recommend @DaBunny NOT complete that order today. At all. Period.

    Instead, I would recommend catching a few videos - and @Vaping With Vic is an excellent reference site - covering the SINGLE COIL RTA's I listed above - as well as your dead-bunny. I absolutely guarantee you will not enjoy your first experience to coiling and wicking by fighting a dual-coil. I shit-thee-not.

    A single-coil can provide a ton and half of flavor, decent "clouds", and is easy to keep fed and maintained. Duals double your stress and expenses - at the least. Once you are so confortable with the single-coil RTA that you can whip out and install a new coil in a few moments... Once you decide you need MORE CLOUDS, BRO - that's when you add a dual to your collection.

    I've been divesting myself of duals for the past year. Everything I enjoy is a single coil - rta's (nano's), rsa's (SXK Basic, Reload-S, and Rebirth clones).. I even - finally - bought 2 cheap tins of premade coils with wire I don't otherwise have at hand.. I can recoil and wick in about one minute.
     
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  33. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    I BELIEVE!
    I DO BELIEVE
    I DO I DO I DO...

    dead bunny also makes an RTA

    so RDA = 2 coils and RTA = 1 Coil
    yet BOTH can have the air from the top and BURN on the bottem .. correct?
    and if I understand you folks its easer to install One coil properly then 2.
    { that makes sence }

    So maybe I should start with PRE MADE COILS.

    and keep them as a prototype for latter use.

    and i bet RDA wire is differnt from RTA wire cuz as Nadalama said
    2 coils use 1/2 the ohms per side.
     
  34. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Actually the Dead Rabbit RTA can be built with either one or two coils. You just have to put the two legs of the coil in the right holes in the deck.

    Wire we suggested can be used on both RTAs and RDAs.
     
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  35. PoppaVic

    PoppaVic Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    NO. There are single and dual coil tanks (RTA, RDTA); and atomizers/drippers (RDA, RSA).
    • RTA= R)ebuildable T)ank A)tomizer
    • RDTA= R)ebuildable D)ripping T)ank A)tomizer
    • RDA= R)ebuildable D)ripping A)tomizer
    • RSA= R)ebuildable S)quonking A)tomizer

    Yes, Top-Air can be found in Tank designs and (far more rare) RDA's. Makes them very difficult to flood, so they don't pee all over the tank, mod, hands, table, sofa, clothes, etc. Bottom-air is more common to tanks, and side-air is fairly universal to RDA/RSA designs.

    They don't "burn", but they vaporize/steam. The RDTA class is predicated on the old Genesis (Genny's) design where the tank is UNDER the deck and you wick up FROM that tank to the deck which is closest to the driptip.


    Absolutely. It's easier today than it used to be, though: we used to fight pushing coils either thru 2 common holes from opposite sides - or sharing the pos-post (and fighting) in three-post designs. It was godawful.

    No. Not. Wire is wire - there are different alloys and gauges (weights/diameters). And then there are "complex wires", (anything from twisted to whateverthehell is the latest crazy clapton thingie ;-).

    1. You want to absolutely, completely avoid: Titanium and Ni200 (Nickel). Those absolutely require TC screw-around and are otherwise deadly/volatile.
    2. You can use Ni80 or Kanthal A1 as "high" resistance wire - VV or VW or Bypass or Mechanicals.
    3. You can also use SS316L as in #2, but it's a lower resistance.
    Some folks taste "copper" or "iron" in #2 - in the dark ages, the chinee "nichrome" I was buying tasted like copper in my mouth - so I went to Kanthal for years. Once I found SS316L, I pretty much gave all my Kanthal away - I can wind a coil to compare directly to Kanthal in anything I own. I only started adding Ni80 in the last 2 years because apparently they have cleaned up the purity issues - and I don't taste copper anymore. Still, SS316L just taste like.. well, whatever juice you use - or nasty when you burn a dry wick ;-)

    Yes. You can absolutely buy a small container of premade coils - or even an assortment. This is a good way to try something weird w/o investing in a roll of it. FT and other places will sell such things - even B&M's sometimes carry them ($$$$).

    If you have 1 coil of 1Ω and replicate it, in a dual-coil atty this will be read as 0.5Ω TOTAL. The fun part is trying to get both to be the same resistance and glow properly. Some days it's hair-pulling.
     
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  36. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    I just watched this..

    take a look at the coil calculator at http://www.steam-engine.org

    THANK YOU wonderful info and tool for future use.
     
  37. SteveS45

    SteveS45 Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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  38. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    whats the trick to removing the deck from a pulse 2 RDA...

    it should unclip but it won't budge
     
  39. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I don't have one so can't help with this, but I'm looking at pics. Why do you need to remove the deck?
     
  40. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    so i can install a coil/
     
  41. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Ok from what I can see, all you need to remove is the cap and the airflow attachments (the amber plastic pieces).

    Screw the RDA onto a regulated mod with the power off. Remove the cap by rocking it a little from side to side while pulling up.

    Are those amber plastic pieces giving you trouble?
     
  42. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    This part is the deck. I thought you were asking about removing the deck from the base.

    [​IMG]
     
  43. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    YES ...
    and there is the prob;em I can not remove the deck from the upper sleave
    pulse deck.jpg
    see the locking Tabs they do not budge
     
  44. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I can't find a picture that even looks like that. Don't know what to tell you. I'd stil try putting it on a mod and removing that bottom ring part from the base. I would think it would bring those tabs up with it.
     
  45. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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  46. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    thank you THAT worked...
     
  47. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Ok, see the pieces that you are calling "tabs" are actually part of the outer cap. When the base and deck are attached to a mod (so that you have some leverage), take hold of that cap by the part that is colored black on that picture. Wiggle it back and forth just a little bit as you pull up on it.
     
  48. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Ok now, before you put it back on, take some eliquid on your finger and lubricate those o-rings. That will make it easier to get off next time.
     
  49. DaBunny

    DaBunny New Member

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    well I will be DANGED..
    I did it I did it...

    no it did not take THIS LONG...
    I got a phone call to go help the neighbor man.. so I had to scoot .
    yet as soon a I returned the whole thing MADE ITSELF...

    Double coil.
    Clipped the excess off
    found using a needlepoint needle and thread worked like a MILLION BUCKS to fish the cotten wick threw.
    trimmed the edges and used DA NEW
    [​IMG]
    worked like A Million Bucks
    THANKS AGAIN NADLAMA!
    yep trigger started added the juice and ITS WORKING..
    doing da happy feets dancing

    Thanks for all Da FAST accurate help here at UV
     
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  50. nadalama

    nadalama VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    That's fabulous! You did it! So how's the vape? Getting good flavor?
     
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