A load of questions

[Lescant]

1. are these batteries legit? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J470LTA

2. is this mod clone decent? https://www.fasttech.com/products/1907604

3. The tip I use is an authentic dark horse drip tip

4. If I vape on 0.5 ohms and use those batteries will I explode in sad doom?

and yes, I am familiar with Ohms law, or at least the version I learned in college quite some time ago
(P=IR)

 

[Lescant]

Also, I'm investing in an multimeter soon.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Umm... mas a general rule I NEVER buy batteries from an unknown source..IE ebay or amazon
There are quite a few reputable vendors out there, I always use RTD, and have not had any issues http://www.rtdvapor.com/

As to the clone... I got nothing. I really don't know enough about those to say anything, generally FT products check the discussion in the description and the reviews, and that should give you a general idea on what to expect.

The multimeter.. do yourself a favor and get that before you start building. Or maybe an inexpensive regulated mod like an istick, you can use the mod as a backup and an ohm meter it will also let you know if you have any shorts.... or pants

 

[SMOKIE]

1. are these batteries legit? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J470LTA

2. is this mod clone decent? https://www.fasttech.com/products/1907604

3. The tip I use is an authentic dark horse drip tip

4. If I vape on 0.5 ohms and use those batteries will I explode in sad doom?

and yes, I am familiar with Ohms law, or at least the version I learned in college quite some time ago
(P=IR)

With Fasttech products you never know if they are good or bad. Check for any reviews on their website. Nice thing is with FT you can return them for a full refund with free shipping as defective if you do not like it. And here is a trusted vendor for bats http://www.sun-vapers.com/

 

[BoomStick]

P=IE and E=IR are the correct formulas. P=IR is incorrect. Don't buy batteries from any third party site.

 

[Lescant]

P=IE and E=IR are the correct formulas. P=IR is incorrect. Don't buy batteries from any third party site.

actually I meant V=IR which would be power=current*resistance, which isn't incorrect in the terms of science, is it different for vaping?

 

[Lescant]

so far, no one answered if I will blow up or not. I hope I can keep my hands.

 

[AmandaD]

so far, no one answered if I will blow up or not. I hope I can keep my hands.

Because it's an unknown Amazon vendor. If you must buy Sonys, buy them from a known, reputable vendor. As to the mod, there are no reviews, so - again - who knows! Sorry I can't be more helpful

 

[f1r3b1rd]

What are you asking? Ohms law?
My definition and explanation bothers most; because., I ramble
Vapor beast has some videos on you tube that will explain it along with any number of physics for electronic fundamentals
Here are some equations for ohm's law

E=I*R
I=E/R
R=E/I

Here are some for joule's law (which is where you are confusing them)
P=I*E
p=E^2/R
p=I^2*r

E=voltage
I=Current (amps)
R= Resistance (ohms)
P=power (watts)

Before you start building seriously get an ohm meter or some way to check Rt and for shorts
Also make sure you now and can tell what is and is not safe IE battery safety and safe parameters

 

[BoomStick]

actually I meant V=IR which would be power=current*resistance, which isn't incorrect in the terms of science, is it different for vaping?

Voltage and wattage (power) aren't the same thing.

Firebird detailed it.

 

[Neunerball]

so far, no one answered if I will blow up or not. I hope I can keep my hands.

Check out http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp and the other pages as well.

 

[JLFROST]

So.... I'm charging my 18650 3.7vs at 4.2v?

 

[Neunerball]

So.... I'm charging my 18650 3.7vs at 4.2v?

In a charger, you charge them TO approximately 4.2V at a given Ampere. However, the voltage will drop rather quick to 3.6V. It will be at this level for a while, until the voltage again drops fairly quick. That's when you want to change/charge the battery. Ideally, don't discharge below 3.2V, otherwise the battery gets damaged.

 

[BoomStick]

So.... I'm charging my 18650 3.7vs at 4.2v?

You should really educate yourself about these batteries if you're going to be using them. They're not Duracells. They're high drain lithiums. Battery University is a good website with a lot of good info about these things. I'm not trying to be a dick, just stressing the importance of being knowledgeable about a battery that can be dangerous in the hands of a person that isn't knowledgeable about them.

 

[madmonkey]

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ ---basic ohm's law calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp ----steam engine coil building tool
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/ ----basic beginners information thread
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138 ---basic information thread for what you need for cloud chasing/beginning rda's
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210 ----basic intro thread with good battery information you need to know..

Welcome to VU...I am honestly glad and grateful you came here to ask questions...better to ask than learn the hard way. Those batteries you're looking at, while there are more counterfeit version of those than authentic right now. If you must have those batteries than I suggest you get them from RTDVapor.com or Lightening Vapes or illumination supply or another trusted and known retailer. As a rule of thumb avoid amazon and ebay....at that price is too high, I can get three of those batteries from some trusted retailers shipped for what they're asking for two.

building at .5 ohms if you use an ohm's meter and properly check your coil for shorts with those batteries, if they're authentic, is totally possible and you shouldn't loose your hands. I suggest you google RDA builds on youtube and watch and learn as much as you can. Safety is paramount and with a mech mod and a RDA the only form of safety protection you have is the knowledge you possess in your brain and the health of your battery and if you don't check everything and be careful bad things can happen. I've had atty's short out on me and ruin and nearly vent batteries and I've been building for years and know quite well what I am doing...my point is that no matter how safe you are things can still go wrong and the more aware of things the safer you'll be.

As for that mod...fasttech isn't known for always having high quality products...they're hit or miss and they are located in China and it can take anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks for you to get your order. You save a couple bucks by shopping with them but the trade off is the amount of time you wait for your order. The best way to know if something is good from them is to read threw their reviews and their discussions on their forum...there isn't much there on that one so it's newer and the reviews haven't come in so it's a 50/50 shot on it's quality and you can take the chance of either being a ginnea pig for it or you can wait for the regular group that orders everything from them and shop somewhere else in the meantime stateside.

My best advice is to fork out the money for a Segelei 150 and some good batteries like LG HD2 or authentic VTC4's from a trusted retailer mentioned somewhere in this thread or on this site and a good battery charger like an Efest LUC or any of the Xtar brand chargers. The Dark horse Atty is a nice cloud machine and you'll get more milage out of it with a high powered box mod like the 150. What gauge wire are you using to build on it with and what kind of wire and what wicking are you using...it will make a difference in performance as well.

 

[JLFROST]

You should really educate yourself about these batteries if you're going to be using them. They're not Duracells. They're high drain lithiums. Battery University is a good website with a lot of good info about these things. I'm not trying to be a dick, just stressing the importance of being knowledgeable about a battery that can be dangerous in the hands of a person that isn't knowledgeable about them.

But my charger only has a 3.0v - 4.2 v setting . I'm guessing if I charge them at 3.0v it will never charge fully

 

[BoomStick]

The 3.0v setting is for different batteries. You need to use the 4.2v setting.

 

[JLFROST]

The 3.0v setting is for different batteries. You need to use the 4.2v setting.

and that's what I have been doing for a long time now with no problems what so ever other than noticing battery life decline which is normal after a long period of steady use.

 

[BoomStick]

and that's what I have been doing for a long time now with no problems what so ever other than noticing battery life decline which is normal after a long period of steady use.

Well that's wonderful. I'm glad you've been able to stumble along in the dark and not bump into anything. Cause if you had charged a 3v battery at 4.2v you just might have had a problem. You know, like maybe finding your house in a big pile of ash after ignorantly mistreating a handful of energized, volatile chemicals.

I get it. You've been doing it wrong and nothing bad has happened. You got lucky. Now go learn about these things and do it right and stop blindly gambling with the safety of yourself and those around you. A single 18650 can BURN YOUR FUCKING HOUSE DOWN. Making a seemingly flippant reply about how you've been improperly charging a high drain lithium battery makes me think you're..... Just please go educate yourself sir.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

 

[JLFROST]

The 3.0v setting is for different batteries. You need to use the 4.2v setting.

So do I use the 4.2V setting on my charger for my 18650 2600 mAH 30A LI-MN 3.7V batteries or no? youre telling me two things.

 

[madmonkey]

So do I use the 4.2V setting on my charger for my 18650 2600 mAH 30A LI-MN 3.7V batteries or no? youre telling me two things.

Yes...you charge your "3.7" IMR batteries on the 4.2 setting....How it works is Most Li-Ion batteries, regardless if they are ICR or IMR or IMR are labeled "3.6" or "3.7" volts because that is their mean voltage. That is that they are fully charged at 4.2 volts and then when you start to use them they drop down fairly quickly from their full charge voltage to 3.6-3.8 volts and sit at this voltage for awhile before they begin to drop again and should be charged ideally at 3 to 3.3 volts if not a little higher. 3.7 is the median or half-way point between 3 volts and 4.2 volts so that is what they are labeled as.

there is another type of Li-ion battery that has a special chemistry of Lithium, Iron and Phosphate. These batteries have a difference voltage range of about 3.6 volts down to 2.5 and their mean voltage or middle is 3 volts and that is what that three volt setting is for. If you would try and charge these batteries to 4.2 volts you would have a very bad reaction to the charging that might change the condition of your house from good to not good as these batteries aren't the most stable of chemistries and no Li-ion battery can be safely overcharged....overcharging is dangerous period.

Bottom line, if you don't know what a setting is for on your battery charger you probably shouldn't be using it. That goes for any setting. You can learn more basic information about the different types of Li-ion batteries here....

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion

Does this make more sense now...if not I've got construction paper and crayons and paste and we can turn this into a class project because there is no such thing as too much battery safety information and even I reread this stuff every so often to make sure I have it down right.

 

[JLFROST]

Yes...you charge your "3.7" IMR batteries on the 4.2 setting....How it works is Most Li-Ion batteries, regardless if they are ICR or IMR or IMR are labeled "3.6" or "3.7" volts because that is their mean voltage. That is that they are fully charged at 4.2 volts and then when you start to use them they drop down fairly quickly from their full charge voltage to 3.6-3.8 volts and sit at this voltage for awhile before they begin to drop again and should be charged ideally at 3 to 3.3 volts if not a little higher. 3.7 is the median or half-way point between 3 volts and 4.2 volts so that is what they are labeled as.

there is another type of Li-ion battery that has a special chemistry of Lithium, Iron and Phosphate. These batteries have a difference voltage range of about 3.6 volts down to 2.5 and their mean voltage or middle is 3 volts and that is what that three volt setting is for. If you would try and charge these batteries to 4.2 volts you would have a very bad reaction to the charging that might change the condition of your house from good to not good as these batteries aren't the most stable of chemistries and no Li-ion battery can be safely overcharged....overcharging is dangerous period.

Bottom line, if you don't know what a setting is for on your battery charger you probably shouldn't be using it. That goes for any setting. You can learn more basic information about the different types of Li-ion batteries here....

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion

Does this make more sense now...if not I've got construction paper and crayons and paste and we can turn this into a class project because there is no such thing as too much battery safety information and even I reread this stuff every so often to make sure I have it down right.

Thank you, now this morning I stumbled upon a different problem.

One of my coils is actually emitting a spark and the entire coil down to the post will glow red.

 

[efektt]

Stop using that atty, and buy one that has prebuilt coils. You have a lot to learn. Get a subtank or something like that until you figure it out. Nobody wants to see you get hurt.

 

[JLFROST]

It was not the atty, I rebuilt the coils and it fixed it.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Efektt has a great idea, I really think the fact that you had to ask really means you should look into a safer setup. At least for now while you learn a little more. Nothing personal but these things can hurt.... bad
We all had to learn also.

 

[Lescant]

Efektt has a great idea, I really think the fact that you had to ask really means you should look into a safer setup. At least for now while you learn a little more. Nothing personal but these things can hurt.... bad
We all had to learn also.

My buddy tried ordered the batteries and tested them ect. today, so they're actually legit working batteries, he let them die out a few cycles, and charged them and they didn't get hot. I also ordered a multimeter and I didn't short my atty, I'm at 0.5 ohms, and my battery is snug in the tube.

Am I good to go, or am I forgetting anything?

 

[madmonkey]

ok, forgive me...I just reread this thread and is there two people asking different questions here or one person using two different names?

My buddy tried ordered the batteries and tested them ect. today, so they're actually legit working batteries, he let them die out a few cycles, and charged them and they didn't get hot. I also ordered a multimeter and I didn't short my atty, I'm at 0.5 ohms, and my battery is snug in the tube.

Am I good to go, or am I forgetting anything?

When you say "tested" do you mean just used in a mod himself or has actual battery testing equipment? I can put any battery in a mod and use it and it might work for me, but it doesn't test anything other than if it's a battery that can fire my atty under load. What kind of test?

If you have a coil built and you put it on your ohm's meter or tested with your multimeter and it is showing a steady .05 and you've checked your screws for loose connections and you've screwed everything together and there is good battery contact with no rattle and the center pin of the atty is making good connection with the positive pin of the mod then you should be able to vape. I am assuming you test fired your coils before you wicked them and metered them to make sure they're not shorting and firing evenly and now you've wicked and juiced your atty and you can vape.

I would still watch as many building videos and read up as much as you can in other threads here and @efektt has a good idea about using tanks/atties with prebuilt coils till you learn more and get more comfortable with it. We all had to learn how to do this ourselves and most of us started out with a store bought tank of some kind and learned how to rebuild after we had been vaping and did some research on it. Your first few builds might not give you the performance you're looking for as it takes time and practice to really get a good grip on things and figure out how you want things built and with a factory made coil you get consistent results while you figure out rebuilding.

Best of luck vaping, hope it works out.