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What's your Drill? Easy trigger?

zephyr

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I'm looking at getting a new drill, hoping for one with an easier to squeeze trigger than the old Craftman. Doesn't matter to me if it's corded or cordless as long as it can start consistently and slowly and has a responsive trigger.

OR ADJUSTABLE TRIGGER LOCK

Thanks for any input!

I'm looking at this one the hardest right now
 
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Jriley

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Hope some people chime in today...or else I'm just going to order that there drill plus a vise to mount it in kinda like how Sherlock Hohms's set up

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My drill changes constantly Meg because anger issues when building. Right now it's a Bostitch corded from Walmart and a Bostitch cordless from Walmart... At work I use a Milwaukee cordless drill and I'd love to use/have it.... Just might if this one catches flight shortly.

Raymo uses a Ryobi one+
Everyone is a mix and match tho... I think the longer you continue building Meg the one that's highest rpm while being quiet!! will be most important for you.... I can't stress the quiet part enough I fucking hate listening to screaming drills over and over and over it will make you hate doing aliens

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mach1ne

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i am actually in the market for a new drill too. im pretty sure i have the worst drill on earth for building. its corded, the speed control in the trigger is fried, the trigger is 95% deadzone, when it kicks on, its going 3k rpm and will break your wire if you arent ready, it has no brake (if you want it to stop right now you have to grab the chuck and stop it yourself) and its so fucking loud you literally cant hear someone next to you talking to you.

looking forward to some recommendations...
 

KingPin!

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I use my cordless dewalt meg... the trigger is a bit tough over long periods of time if you ask me although it has a nice clutch system on it ....I’d be happy with a B&D in all honesty haha
 

AnthonyLouis

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I actually use a Black & Decker corded drill ... nothing fancy, it’s just what I had in my house al these years... never gave up on me and is pretty fast so never bothered getting another one. Lately I’ve been looking at cordless drills though... there just so much easier to do staggered builds on since there tall. I build right in my dining room so I can’t really get a table vice for my corded drill, it’ll mess up the marble!


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jwill

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Depending on the drill you have you may be able to tweak yours with a sewing machine pedal to give you control over that. The drill switch is no different than any other switch.
 

KingPin!

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Depending on the drill you have you may be able to tweak yours with a sewing machine pedal to give you control over that. The drill switch is no different than any other switch.

This is what I wanna see for coil building would be great to have two hands free for the intricate stuff or just to steady my other arm
 

CrazyChef v2.0

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It's been done, but I'd love to see what you come up with. My problem is that I don't know how to keep the drill taut while spinning, and also adjustable for different wire lengths.
 

jwill

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Banding strap, piece of wood and a couple of screws. You can use some very inexpensive clamps to clamp it to a table top.
 

mach1ne

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It's been done, but I'd love to see what you come up with. My problem is that I don't know how to keep the drill taut while spinning, and also adjustable for different wire lengths.
i clamp my drills (electric or hand powered) into a vise, which i clamp to my desk. i would like to see a foot switch, or even a handheld (wired) controller that i could use to make longer stretches of wire...
 

jwill

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Ive never made a fancy coil, so I only know what I have seen in videos of others that make them. how much actual power/torque/speed would a person need? Small DC motors are cheap, variable speed controllers are cheap and sewing machine foot pedals can be had for nearly nothing. looks like it would cost roughly $70 (not including wood) to build one. If I build a working proof of concept would someone be willing to send me something cool for it? Probably take 2-3 weeks to get all the parts together and a week or two to flesh it out. How long of a piece of coil would a maker generally make in one run?
 

CrazyChef v2.0

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Depends. Claptons I make about 27 inches. Aliens, about 18 inches. Staples, about 12 inches, but sometimes about 18 inches. Fused Claptons, about 25 inches. But, with the exception of the staples, these lengths are because of the limited width of my build station and my own ability to reach from the drill to the end of the wire.
 

jwill

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Would a coil maker need something to hold both ends of the wire? I just ordered all the parts, likely only take 3 weeks to complete with the parts a little over a week out if they ship tomorrow.
 

zephyr

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I was thinking about this last night, but without a wired pedal -
--Drill upside down in a vise
--Small rope or any cording that doesn't stretch
--spray rubber on the part of the rope that touches the trigger for grippiness
--two clamps with a dowel and short PVC pipe to spin freely, as a pulley for the rope --this part would take the most troubleshooting
--measure rope to come just above the floor after tying into a loop
--wooden block for a pedal, either glue or cut a groove into the pedal to hold the rope in place - could attach the block to something heavy with grip on the bottom to secure it in place better

If the dowel/pulley is at the correct height, say just below level with the drill trigger, and the rope goes around and back toward the user, seems like it could work

For crazychef's need of moving the drill, a drill press vise could be moved, but I was thinking easier to move the clamp holding the swivels closer or farther as needed
 

Jriley

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I was thinking about this last night, but without a wired pedal -
--Drill upside down in a vise
--Small rope or any cording that doesn't stretch
--spray rubber on the part of the rope that touches the trigger for grippiness
--two clamps with a dowel and short PVC pipe to spin freely, as a pulley for the rope --this part would take the most troubleshooting
--measure rope to come just above the floor after tying into a loop
--wooden block for a pedal, either glue or cut a groove into the pedal to hold the rope in place - could attach the block to something heavy with grip on the bottom to secure it in place better

If the dowel/pulley is at the correct height, say just below level with the drill trigger, and the rope goes around and back toward the user, seems like it could work

For crazychef's need of moving the drill, a drill press vise could be moved, but I was thinking easier to move the clamp holding the swivels closer or farther as needed
Right Meg, it's easier to adjust swivel end for diff lengths.

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CrazyChef v2.0

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It's kinda sorta bolted down.

EWiOhhC.jpg
 

KarmicRage

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Sorry for the late reply guys. I was using my uncles makita drill but it doesn't sit straight and I had to angle it. I now use a cheap cordless drill I got out of argos, sits straight and isn't too loud. I tend to cover my drill in a towel to suppress the sound. I'm looking for basically the fastest drill available for the least cost now, won't be investing in it until I get some more wire and juice though lol

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Zohmbiebuilds

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Black and Decker on eBay can be had for 11 bucks. It's kinda loud but it's a decent drill. Most importantly it stops will and started up slow and is responsive

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jwill

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Got the motor today and measured the spindle for the drill chuck. Going to start building the mount. Question. If you were to have something foot controlled would you want the mount to be adjustable for the length or would it make more sense to be fixed and you control the length with the leaders like you have now (See pic bolted to the board).
 

jwill

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Mock up (-chuck)

53r12s.jpg


Motor is now speed controlled via foot pedal. I am going to drill a hole on the far end, insert a ball bearing and an eye bolt to hook a swivel onto. Once that is done going to tear it all down and paint it.
 

KarmicRage

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Very nice dude :) makes me wanna start tinkering around myself lol

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jwill

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Very nice dude :) makes me wanna start tinkering around myself lol

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I'm not making this for me. I'm making this for someone who wants it and will build coils with it. All I ask is whoever the taker is sends me something cool for the effort and time, no cash involved.

I like to build stuff that solves a problem. Seems like this might really fill a need.
 

KarmicRage

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It's like the setup M.terk uses except much shorter and able to be moved as a unit. It is very nice man, could have a nice little earner there for yourself I definitely wouldn't mind one if it came 6 ft long and able to slide the swivel setup back and forth to do longer and shorter decores proper tidy

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jwill

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It's like the setup M.terk uses except much shorter and able to be moved as a unit. It is very nice man, could have a nice little earner there for yourself I definitely wouldn't mind one if it came 6 ft long and able to slide the swivel setup back and forth to do longer and shorter decores proper tidy

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I have no problem sharing how this was made or making additional ones to taste for those who dont have the tools. 6 ft would be super easy as would making it adjustable. For some reason I think this should be painted green. What would be easy on the eyes when staring at little spinning wires?
 

KarmicRage

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I quite like blue, but I would think any colour that it is it would have to be a darker shade and possibly matt finish. For my own one that would be anyway. Only because any sort of shine could be mistaken for wire with thinner gauges. I also live in the UK so shipping would be an absolute joke for something 6ft haha having enough problems waiting for Raymo's clamps to arrive :/

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jwill

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It is now variable speed and slow steady ramp. Stop is letting off the spring loaded pedal. I need to take apart the motor and see what needs to be done to get reverse to work, I am not going to put that in the pedal because the speed is very well controlled as is and seems like someone who moves around a lot could move there foot down and ruin what they are doing.
 

mach1ne

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It is now variable speed and slow steady ramp. Stop is letting off the spring loaded pedal. I need to take apart the motor and see what needs to be done to get reverse to work, I am not going to put that in the pedal because the speed is very well controlled as is and seems like someone who moves around a lot could move there foot down and ruin what they are doing.
stopping to reverse a little mistake is a common occurrence in building, and some builds require switching directions part way through (aliens). ideally (imo) the pedal needs to be able to control both directions equally as easy.
 

jwill

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I don't know a thing about building coils, everything I used to build this is from the posts above. To me coil building is wrapping something from 20-26g around a screwdriver, a screw or a dental scraper.

Getting reverse into a pedal is easy once I figure out what needs to happen to switch polarity and not fry it. I plan to tear it down tomorrow and see if I can find some schematics for this little motor in English.

All input is welcome because if the device doesn't do what it is needed to its useless. Keep it coming.
 

mach1ne

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I don't know a thing about building coils, everything I used to build this is from the posts above. To me coil building is wrapping something from 20-26g around a screwdriver, a screw or a dental scraper.

Getting reverse into a pedal is easy once I figure out what needs to happen to switch polarity and not fry it. I plan to tear it down tomorrow and see if I can find some schematics for this little motor in English.

All input is welcome because if the device doesn't do what it is needed to its useless. Keep it coming.
thats why i offered the input :cheers: im interested to see this develop. not sure if i need one, but it could easily become something that changes my mind on that by the time its done.
 

jwill

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stopping to reverse a little mistake is a common occurrence in building, and some builds require switching directions part way through (aliens). ideally (imo) the pedal needs to be able to control both directions equally as easy.

May have spoke too soon. Not many options I can find quickly for a bidirectional pedal. What I imagined in my head is a rocker switch to throw polarity between the rheostat and stator so the same fluid speed ramp applies in both directions. I was planning to mount that in the middle of the board so its easy to find and flip. I could also do a switch and set it on the side of the foot pedal so it can be toggled by a foot and keep hands on the wire.
 

jwill

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would a rocker switch work? If so where would the preferred mounting point be? Could possibly wire in a second pedal to control direction of the motor to make it momentary but would require operating with both feet. One to make it reverse, the other to control speed.
 

KarmicRage

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Personally a rocker switch would be sufficient enough. Without the need to hold the drill the free hand could switch back and forth easily

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jwill

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Where would be the most ideal place to put it in your opinions? I also had another thought. What if I eliminated the rail board all together and just made the motor end and free spinning end in such a way that they could both be clamped down. Then they can be as short or as long as you could possibly imagine. It would also make it more economical to fabricate out of metal than wood. Maybe four lever throw suction cups or create some non marring rubber feet to clamp against.
 

jwill

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Havent forgotten about this either. Remaining parts shoudl be here Friday. Will have a working copy by weekend end.
 

jwill

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I screwed up.

My drill press would not hold the collar (far too small) for the chuck so I hand drilled it. It is .01 out of round and causes the chuck to rotate in an oval shape. I tried filing down the motor shaft and made it infinitely worse. I only bought one.

Then it dawned on me I am over thinking/over engineering this whole setup entirely.

I started looking around for things that contain all of the items that were discussed and I will be damned if there isnt already something that is dirt cheap, checks all the buttons and requires only minimal engineering and modification.




Footswitch- Check
Directional rotation control- Check
Speed Control- Check

All that needs to be done with this is tear apart the drill, mount the motor to something that can be clamped down and viola. Foot controlled wire jig. i have a whole box of high torque motors so even if the one in the hand drill sucks the rest of it is already assembled and ready to party.
 

Ralph_K

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Dewalt is a good drill. Overall maybe the best. Ryobi isn't that good batteries suck. Rigid is good if you don't have to get in tight spots and don't mind the extra weight.
 

zephyr

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I screwed up.

My drill press would not hold the collar (far too small) for the chuck so I hand drilled it. It is .01 out of round and causes the chuck to rotate in an oval shape. I tried filing down the motor shaft and made it infinitely worse. I only bought one.

Then it dawned on me I am over thinking/over engineering this whole setup entirely.

I started looking around for things that contain all of the items that were discussed and I will be damned if there isnt already something that is dirt cheap, checks all the buttons and requires only minimal engineering and modification.




Footswitch- Check
Directional rotation control- Check
Speed Control- Check

All that needs to be done with this is tear apart the drill, mount the motor to something that can be clamped down and viola. Foot controlled wire jig. i have a whole box of high torque motors so even if the one in the hand drill sucks the rest of it is already assembled and ready to party.


- Will the pedal control speed, or is speed only controlled via the main box and the pedal is simply an on/off

- 30,000 RPM :eek: would your gutting and repurposing this be able to fix these issues?
 

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