Weak Mech Mod

Discussion in 'Ask An Expert' started by WrightRide125, Sep 13, 2018.

  1. WrightRide125

    WrightRide125 New Member

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    So I just got this used Czar mfg. Userper 18650 tube mech mod off of ebay. I'm pretty disappointed with its performance however. I've got a 0.41 ohm a1 twisted kanthal build on my drop solo rda right now, and running a Samsung 25r. But whenever I hit the mod, its just super weak. I do notice that the button has a bit of side to side play in it, and if i just push up on a corner it hits better. The mod is very clean, doesn't appear to be warped in any spots, good threads, button looks solid and doesn't stick. So i'm not sure if it's a connection issue or just me expecting way more than I should have. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas as to whats going on I would really appreciate it. Thanks much, Hunter.
     
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  2. 5150sick

    5150sick Under Ground Hustler Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 4 Years ECF Refugee Mod Team Leader

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    I would drop the ohms of the build to 0.25 ohms.
    That is plenty safe for a single 18650 mech.

    It will add around 1/3 more power (wattage) to the coils.
     
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  3. 5150sick

    5150sick Under Ground Hustler Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 4 Years ECF Refugee Mod Team Leader

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    You are drawing around 10 amps and putting out only 35 watts with the 0.41 ohm build.

    You could do either of these:

    Build at 0.25 ohms:
    You will be drawing around 15 amps and be putting out close to 60 watts at 0.25 ohms.

    Build at 0.2 ohms:
    You will be drawing around 19 amps and be putting out close to 75 watts at 0.2 ohms.

    The samsung 25r is a solid 22 amp cell so you are in the clear safety wise with both options.
     
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  4. WrightRide125

    WrightRide125 New Member

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    Okay, so I should just lower the resistance of the build and that pushes more amps and watts. Thanks for the info man! I'll throw a dual coil in there and try to get around 0.2-0.25 and see how she rips.
     
  5. Kitsune

    Kitsune New Member

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    0.25 might not be low enough for a dual coil build and I wouldn't go lower than 0.2 with a 25R.

    If I were you I'd go for a single coil build at around 0.21-0.23 ohms.

    Something along the lines of a tri-core fused clapton 26ga.
     
  6. jwill

    jwill The Great King of Nothing VU Vendor VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 1 Year VU Challenge Team Reddit Exile

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    Aside from the already mentioned drop in ohms. You might also consider a simpler wire coil with NI80. It will dramatically reduce the ramp time and improve the hit.
     
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  7. WrightRide125

    WrightRide125 New Member

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    haha, I'll give it a shot. Thanks man!
     
  8. WrightRide125

    WrightRide125 New Member

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    Really? I'm not a complete noob but I thought you couldn't build ni80 on a mech mod. If you can then I'll definitely have to try, that sounds like a winner!
     
  9. jwill

    jwill The Great King of Nothing VU Vendor VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 1 Year VU Challenge Team Reddit Exile

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    Sure can. Its my preference. You cant use NI80 for TC mode, works awesome on a mech.
     
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  10. 5150sick

    5150sick Under Ground Hustler Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 4 Years ECF Refugee Mod Team Leader

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    I have to be really careful dry burning with NI80 because coil legs pop so easy compared to other wires.
    It's worth it though.:)
     
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  11. jwill

    jwill The Great King of Nothing VU Vendor VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 1 Year VU Challenge Team Reddit Exile

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    22g is about perfect (IMO) and you really have to be trying to pop coils at that gauge or running super high and hot. 24+ is super easy to do it on.
     
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  12. Kitsune

    Kitsune New Member

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    Forgot to mention that I mean Ni80 tri-cores :D

    Ni80 is my alltime-favorite, except for TC or if I need to reach a specific resistance on a specific build, I use nothing else.

    A word of warning when it comes to materials as you seem to be fairly new with mech mods.
    Never use stainless steel (SS316L and the like) or Ni200 on a mech.

    Those are TC compatible, which means they will change their resistance when heating up, which will of course mess with your vape. :)
     
  13. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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  14. WrightRide125

    WrightRide125 New Member

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    I would agree that I should know more, but I know what I can and can't build on my mech mod. I pretty much only stuck to kanthal because I knew it was safe, and I only stuck sub ohm builds on it. I did think Ni80 was just for TC but I almost only use my mech mod. I pretty much go by the feel of the lung and throat hit on judging if its too hot or too cool. i did just invest in the VandyVape 80w pulse squonker and a drop rda, but I still prefer my mechs. I figured using a good high drain 18650 and 0.5 and lower ohm build was all I really needed to know. The simplicity of mech mods it what keeps me going back to them.
     
  15. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    The links I posted should help. Moochs Blog will also help. For example the Samsung 25r will actually discharge upto 29A without heating past 100C. It will get hot, but will not vent. 20-23 up to 25A is fine, 29 is pushing it.

    In order to get a decent vape on a mech, you need to know how many watts your coil will generate and how many amps you have to draw to get it. You are totally right in only using high grade brand name batteries.
    The better you know the limits of your batteries and mod, and the more familiar you become, the better the vape you can get.

    IF you ever vent a battery, remember you have a couple seconds to get the battery out and get it into a cat box, sink, toilet, out onto the lawn, etc.. any more just chuck the mod... you can always get a new mod.
     
  16. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    He's not joking either, this I know from personal experience. Nearly vented one. Fortunately, I was using mod that is made of aluminum and felt it getting real hot real fast. Right away took the top off to break connection, unscrewed the bottom cap and ran outside playing hot potato with a battery. Luckily it sat outside safe away from everything a few days & cooled down, didn't vent or explode.

    I still think it happened due to one or possibly even two issues.
    • It was an older cheap battery from a company that had a bad rep unknown to me.

    • I accidentally got some fleck of metal material caught up in the battery tube.
    Did I learn anything? I'll tell you jokingly, nope, not at all. You can bet though I keep my mods clean, obsessively so now & I also take a lot of care regarding batteries. Doesn't take but once to learn.

    No we aren't trying to scare you you. We rather though instill a sense of caution in you. Be safe & use common sense.
     
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  17. Pony Tail

    Pony Tail Bronze Contributor Bronze Contributor

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    Just my two cents. Invest in a couple of Sony vtc5a's. Much better 18650 battery. You can have a Samsung 25r and a Sony vtc5a both fully charged and use the Samsung to take a couple of hits then the Sony and the difference is obvious. My experience anyway. No matter what battery you use make battery safety the FIRST priority with any mod. Like I said just my two cents.
     
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  18. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Yep VTC5A hits harder. Had used 25R's in my squonk mechs for quite a while.
    Had my perfect build I had developed over a year or so in the attys.
    Got some VTC5A's and tried them. Went back to 25R's to keep from having to relearn a new build for my attys. Too hot with a 5A.
     
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  19. Pony Tail

    Pony Tail Bronze Contributor Bronze Contributor

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    Yes they do. That's what I like though. I like low builds and a hot vape.
     
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  20. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Not me, a warm but not hot vape for me.
    A choice of batteries as well as coils and attys can help one to find THEIR best vape.

    I was seeking in the world of vaping for a couple of years.
    But now over 3.5 years in I have found what I like and am no longer seeking.
    I have given away most of the vape stuff that I bought during my seeking phase and now only buy more of the vape stuff that satisfies me.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2018
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  21. Pony Tail

    Pony Tail Bronze Contributor Bronze Contributor

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    I agree. It's about getting off the stinky sticks. Not a contest. But the OP is saying his mod is weak hence the battery idea.
     
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  22. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    And a good idea.
     
  23. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    My Sony VTC5A batteries served me well, but I have since moved on to the Samsung 20S. The latter hits harder, runs for longer if you build to low enough ohms, heats up slower because it has a higher CDR therefore it will be safer, is cheaper in addition to all that, AND it has my favorite color. :bliss:
     
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  24. MyMagicMist

    MyMagicMist Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    That's roughly where I like it as well. I like .5 to .3 ohm builds. Think I'm currently using either a Sanyo or an LG 18650. They're both rated fair batteries, and I was pinching those pennies as well.
     
  25. jwill

    jwill The Great King of Nothing VU Vendor VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 1 Year VU Challenge Team Reddit Exile

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    The Samsung 20S batteries are the best balance between run time and punch. IMO as well.
     
  26. Pony Tail

    Pony Tail Bronze Contributor Bronze Contributor

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    I'm looking at the 20s because of the CDR at the same time the 5a is 2600mah and the 20s is 2000. I'm going to try the 20s because the CDR is safer. I'm loving the 20700's right now. I don't have any 21700's yet. As far as color rewraps are customizable.
     
  27. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    In answer to your question, no, I do not think someone using a mechanical mod should know that this is all part of Ohm's Law. But that's just because... well, the simple truth is it isn't part of Ohm's Law in any way at all. Ohm’s Law only tells you it can be any power level. The battery you select determines the actual power delivered to the coil at a certain coil resistance (using Ohm’s Law). Heat flux only serves as an indication in that it is determined by the total surface area of the coil, whereas the warmth or hotness of the vape is determined by a combination of factors that not only inlude the power and the heat flux, but also other factors, like, for example, the airflow and the fact faster airflow causes faster evaporation, in cohort with the fact faster evaporation also causes faster heat dissipation at the surface of the coil. So no. What I do think, though, is that someone lecturing someone the same way you keep lecturing on this forum website should already get at least most of the basics right. Which is still something you stubbornly keep refusing to get right, as that is precisely what gets proven by every other post you write on the subject of building for mech.
     
  28. Pony Tail

    Pony Tail Bronze Contributor Bronze Contributor

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    Is what you said about the 20s lasting longer at lower ohms because it would induce a shorter draw and in turn less heating in the battery thereby extending battery life?
     
  29. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    It depends. The higher capacity (mAh) rating of the Sony VTC5A can, despite the Samsung 20S starts off at a higher voltage due to the latter battery having less voltage sag (i.e. the latter being the harder-hitting battery of the two), still cause the Sony VTC5A to eventually catch up with the Samsung 20S prior to reaching the low voltage cut-off point. But in order for that to happen, the amps drawn from the battery need to be sufficiently low and at the same time also the given voltage cut-off point needs to be sufficiently low.

    I stole Mooch's discharge graphs to turn it into a bit of "fan art" and give you a rough idea of where the catching up starts to occur (the 3 little up-arrows):

    Samsung 20S vs VTC5A.jpg
     
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  30. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    As you can see in the graphic illustration I posted above, even at only 20 amps continuous discharge current the Samsung 20S wins if you stop the discharge cycle the moment the voltage dips below 3.4 volts. Whereas if you stop discharging when it reaches 3.2 volts, you'd have to be vaping significantly far below 25 amps or else the Samsung 20S is still going to be the better choice, and, moving up to 30 amps and higher is where the Samsung 20S seriously mops the floor with the Sony VTC5A in every way that you can start to imagine.
     
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  31. Pony Tail

    Pony Tail Bronze Contributor Bronze Contributor

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    Yeah. When I read your reply to jwill it answered my question. Thanks.
     
  32. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    I am still working on wearing out my 2.5 year old 25R's and the HG2's I use in regulated mods.
     
  33. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    Airflow has nothing to do with the heat generated by the watts to the coil. So regardless of airflow which is applied after the heating components affect the coil.. EVERYTHING has to do with ohms law. The resistance, the amps, the wattage generated by the voltage/resistance and the heat generated from the wattage being applied to a coil. a 30ga coil takes less wattage to heat than a 24ga coil. If you don't know how to apply this to your coil build, you should not be using a mechanical mod. Anything after you press that fire button has nothing at all to do with the heat generated by the coil. Airflow is adding heat, but the heat has already been generated.
    In other words.. you should already know how much heat a coil will produce at Xwatts, Yresistance before you even build the coil. And, like I said..if you don't know this, you shouldn't be using a mechanical mod, these are not for learners and that is why you don't see them being made by Fisher-Price.
     
  34. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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  35. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    @WrightRide125 So....... I won't give you the answer but I will tell you how to figure it out. Which I kind of did with the 2 links I posted. So, problem is you don't like the vape you are getting, likely because there is no vapor. So to increase vapor we know we have to increase the heat applied to the coil. (this is important when customizing your vape) .. lets say you like a medium warm vapor.. so around 250 heat flux... from the link, how many watts do you need to hit 250 heat units? Now, using ohms law.. what resistance should your coil be to generate than number of watts on a 3.7 volt battery....
    Pro Tip... a samsung 25R has a CDR of 20A however it will handle a 29A draw until fully discharged without going over 100C or venting... It will heat to over 100C at 30A so.. anywhere between 20A and say 27A (stay closer to 20A) is reasonably safe.
     
  36. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    The main thing in all cases is to know your battery. Im going to use older cells because I have them memorized. So for example a 25R has a lower CDR than an HG2 but... it heats slower than the HG2 at the same amp draw. By heats I mean the actual battery, not the coil. In other words, for a new mech user that 25R is the better choice allowing for more reaction time in case of SNAFU since it takes several seconds longer to reach 100C which is the limit mooch tests to.
     
  37. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    You were talking about the warmth or hotness of the vape. So the airflow has got EVERYTHING to do with that, as having strong enough airflow going into the direction of the coil is what keeps the temperature from going up to the point where it causes the wick to end up being lit on fire, and, no, the amount of heat a coil will generate at X watts is exactly equal to X watts, whereas the rise in temperature that results from this same amount of heat while not taking into account the fact the generated heat gets transferred away from the coil via the coil's surface (heat flux), is determined by both 1/ volumetric heat capacity of the given metal type and 2/ the volume of the coil, as that also is why a Ni80 coil has a lower heat capacity than an SS316L one using the same wire thickness and length, i.e. it is because, watt for watt, the Ni80 coil heats up faster as a result from the fact Ni80 has a lower volumetric heat capacity than SS316L has.
     
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  38. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    All you are saying is BLAH BLAH BLAH.. fact is airflow has not one damn thing to do with how much heat a coil build generates. You adjust the airflow to adjust the vape temperature and density not the heat flux of the coil. If your heat flux is to low you dont generate any vape to cool in the first place. If you want more vapor you make a hotter running coil, airflow only cools the vapor, it does NOTHING toward producing the vapor. Its like adding sugar to your tea.. you like it sweet add more sugar, but that has nothing to do with making the tea in the first place.
    Your wire type has nothing to do with the temperature, it is still volts and ohm. The fact that stainless steel has lower resistance than kanthal has nothing to do with it, you factor that in when calculating your resistance/watts. The material of the coil has nothing to do with it. Ohms law does. Since 0.25 ohm build on kanthal generates the same wattage as 0.25 build on stainless steel. The difference is in how many watts is required to generate the heat on each coil. The difference is, since SS has more mass at 0.25ohm than kanthal, you need more watts to generate the heat to run it. To get more watts you add more volts or reduce the resistance.
    As far as I can see, all you are doing is being contrary and over complicating a simple matter. Determine how warm you like your vape, how many watts you need to generate that amount of warmth, and the resistance of your coil at 3.7V to generate the required watts. And how is this done.. By using ohms law.

    Lets think about a cloud chasing build.. I build at 450 Mj/K to produce the vapor... THEN i add air to cool the vapor so I can inhale it. If you still want to insist that airflow has anything to do with vapor production, try sucking your atomizer without firing it and only using airflow. How much vapor do you get?
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2018
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  39. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    All this really shows is you don't know when you've lost an argument.
    Fact is you were talking about the warmth of the vape, not the heat a coil build generates. Heat generation is expressed in watts (i.e. not in degrees Celsius nor Fahrenheit), as the heat is simply power converted to heat, and, the First Law Of Thermodynamics dictates energy can be neither created nor destroyed, therefore heat equals power in EVERY coil build, whereas temperature, although related of course, is nowhere nearly the same as heat.
    Strawman argument. I never claimed that the heat flux of the coil can be adjusted by adjusting airflow.
    So what's your point? Heat flux is determined by the total surface area of he coil, as the coil's surface is where heat is transferred into the juice, which also explains why the rate at which heat is transferred into the juice is determined by surface temperature in cohort with heat flux in cohort with airflow in cohort with the rate at which the juice is evaporated.
    Incorrect. Airflow also cools the coil's surface via the boiling juice that sizzles on top of that same surface, i.e., because increased airflow also causes the rate at which the juice evaporates to be increased, the fact faster evaporation causes faster cooling of the liquid surface from which the evaporation happens, also implies there will be additional cooling of the coil's surface that's located underneath this same liquid surface. This is all simple thermodynamics at the high school level of physics. Kids barely at the age of 15 are being taught all of this by their physics teachers all the time.
    Incorrect. While it is true the fact the watts on a mech mod are the volts multiplied by amps, the metal type of the wire does have a noticeable impact on the rate at which the temperature will be changing (i.e. the ramp up time with regards to the power output, and also the cool down time), as that is determined by what's known as heat capacity.
    I was not talking about the resistance. The ramp up time can have a very significant effect on how the vape feels (and tastes) so, for reasons that should be completely obvious to someone who claims to be familiar with mech mods, it also closely relates to the OP's description of "weak".
    It doesnt. I already explained why not.
    It does. But that has got nothing to do with Ohm's Law, as Ohm's Law isn't about watts... the watt is named after the Scottish inventor James Watt; this unit was proposed initially by C. William Siemens in August 1882 in his President's Address to the Fifty-Second Congress of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, i.e. some 28 years after Georg Simon Ohm died.
    Again, the generation of heat is expressed as watts, i.e. the amount of heat is precisely the same as the amount of power, and, temperature is not the same as heat.
    The mass is essentially irrelevant in coil building, only the volume is not. The volume is determined by the thickness (or better said, the surface area of the cross section) and length of each wire, and, the heat capacity of the coil (as calculated by Wire Wizard on the Steam Engine website) is determined by both the volumetric heat capacity of the chosen metal type and the volume of the coil. The volumetric heat capacity (VHC, also known as volume-specific heat capacity) of a metal type can easily be calculated, as it equals the specific heat (also commonly referred to as the heat capacity of the metal type) multiplied by the density of the metal type. Density is unit mass per unit volume so you could argue that the mass actually does matter after all, but my point is you can simply look up both the specific heat and the density in the datasheet of the metal type so you don't need to know anything about the mass to be able to calculate everything you need.
    The only thing that is being contrary and overcomplicating here is your own ill-informed logic. Not just as far as I can see, but much, MUCH farther than that...
    Can't really be done without delving into at least some added specifics such as draw strength/restrictiveness of airflow and the relationship between it and the speed of vapor production. Too much generalization and oversimplification is always a recipe for erroneous fake answers.
    3.7V is just the nominal voltage of most batteries that are popular in vaping. You need to take the battery's voltage sag into account. No battery fires at 4.2V. That voltage is used to give you a bit of a safety margin when calculating the battery current. But nobody is saying the magnitude of the voltage sag will be equal to one half of a volt so, more often than not, the 3.7V that you mention will be nothing more than another really poor attempt at guessing all the numbers like usual.
    Every cloud chaser (that is, every SANE cloud chaser..) knows that restricting the airflow too much will be synonymous to losing the comp. That plus the fact I still have a 30mm Buddha V4 with a dual coil build of mine inside that will literally burn your mouth in not much longer than just a single small second if you fail to give it enough airflow, whereas if you suck on it really hard it will still be hot, but not too hot to handle, despite not everyone likes a draw requiring so much strength, and, as a matter of fact neither do I, but the reason why I built these coils was simply because I expected only to learn from how they perform, as a decent amount of trial and error is what puts me in the position of being able to talk from true experience rather than fuck people over with two boatloads of refined nonsense.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2018
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  40. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Airflow does effect vape temperature.
    And coil temperature as well.
    It is just one part of the puzzle though.

    Just sayin.
     
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  41. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Exactly. As another fine example, having way too much focused, direct airflow arrive at the coil when compared to the speed at which juice is evaporated can potentially give so much added cooling that it ultimately keeps the coil from attaining/sustaining a high enough surface temperature to properly bring the desired amount of juice to boiling temperature, and, what little vapor production might still ensue can have practically all its warmth suppressed due to it getting so strongly diluted with such a comparatively heavy amount of purely cool air... I actually even blow air onto my coils to cool them down faster because if I don't, the bus driver refuses to let me in, which can be a royal PITA if I want a ride to the local vape shop, as online sales are banned in my country so basically the law has forced me to keep in mind that temperature connects to airflow. :cuss2:
     
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  42. WrightRide125

    WrightRide125 New Member

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    Well I never expected the thread to blow up like this lol. I guess I know what I need to for the most part, I would like to get a couple of VTC5's, but the 20s sounds okay too. I guess I'm just not too concerned about having a battery vent on me, had a couple of listmans do it too me and it just got super hot was all. But I was using a really really shitty 10$ stingray clone off of ebay and the button always stuck, the two times were when I wasn't paying attention and they got held open for just a bit too long, so i hucked that pos. And I'm not saying every vent is going to be the same. I'm sure I could run into a situation with one literally exploding if shit goes south in a hurry. But I mean my full time job right now is wrenching on heavy equipment and diesels, and I ride motocross in my spare time so I'm almost always in some form of dangerous situation. Still no excuse to just brush off the issue, becoming two-face from batman doesn't exactly sound fun imo. Either way I feel confident in my abilities to use a mech mod. And I actually did learn a lot from this thread, so thank you to everyone who chimed in. Once I get a bit of coin here I'll probably buy a couple new 18650's and some spools of Ni80 for sure haha.
     
  43. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    actually it has a secondary effect. Mostly to cool the vapor not the coil. As I mentioned in a previous post.. adjust your airflow from closed to full and take a hit without pressing the fire button.. See what I mean.. you are cooling the vape, the coil is incidental. It is the wattage that heats your coil, not your airflow. If your wattage is to low, it doesn't matter how tight you make your draw, you still wont get any more or less vapor.

    Airflow should only be considered a factor after the coil build to customize the vape to your liking and never taken into account as part of the coil build mechanic.
    and as I now state a 3rd time.. coil mechanics depend totally on ohms law. Fact of the matter is, if you can't build a properly working coil, you airflow doesn't matter. With the OP his resistance was to high to provide enough power to the coil, so airflow did not even factor in.
     
  44. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    And all this shows you have not the first clue about coil building mechanics. Anybody building cloud chasing coils knows more surface area, very high watts for Max coil temp and THEN adjust airflow so you don't burn your lips off on the vapor. At no time do you ever figure airflow into the calculation.. you figure in airflow when you purchase your atomizer.. knowing you are going to be using high vapor temps, you buy atomizers with huge airflow.
    Such as MutationX V4 /V5 for clouds.
    TwistedMesses and Tsunami for flavor (much lower airflow than above)

    What you have totally failed to realize, the object of airflow is NOT to cool the coil, it is to cool the vapor. Fact is, if you are vaping a cloud build, most people can't suck hard enough to have a noticeable effect on the coil temperature, it does however add more air to cool the vapor. Just like adding cold water to your bath.

    What do you normally vape at? How many watts? My average cloud coil runs 180W+. Flavor I run about 125ish. Wouldn't it be fair to say I know how to generate heat and vapor on a coil?
     
  45. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    As I mentioned in a previous post.. adjust your airflow from full to closed and press and hold the fire button.. See what I mean.. you are cooling the coil because if you don't, it burns the cotton to a crisp so, again, before you start to lecture about mechs, first you should learn the very basics of vaping. I'm not saying this to make the thread explode. Rather, I'm saying this because it doesn't take to be a genius to be able to figure this stuff out, and, your "BLAH BLAH BLAH" remark isn't going to help you get your lost credibility back. Because, after all this BS you have been posting for ages, you are still only continuing to dig a deeper hole for yourself.
    Nobody in this thread has claimed airflow heats the coil. Instead, it prevents the coil from overheating, thus it affects the temperature of the coil.
    How many times exactly do you need me to repeat the fact you were talking about the warmth of the vape? Talk about moving the flagposts all the time and creating a smokescreen in a foolish attempt at making yourself look smarter........
    Incorrect. Already been explained ad nauseam. :deadhorse:
    I call more BS.
    Fact of the matter is, if you can't understand simple facts like airflow affects coil temp, then trying to reason with you doesn't matter. The fact the OP's resistance was too high unfortunately won't be changing any of that.
     
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  46. Carambrda

    Carambrda Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    How does any of this prove that airflow can't seriously affect the temperature of the coil? The coil build that I was talking about earlier, if you don't suck really hard it doesn't just burn your lips, but the whole inside of your mouth, your throat, and quite possibly even your trachea, complete with black smoke filling up the room and everything so you really utterly are clueless, and the worst part is all you basically care about is to preach onto others about stuff you refuse to learn anything about.. enough said.
    Here, let me give you another hint.

    HOGs.jpg
    You already lost that argument. Now, all you have to do is to just accept it.
    Lucky for me I'm not "most people". Also I don't know the OP well enough to be able to decide on whether he fits the description of that, but since you always seem to know everything about anything I don't feel the least bit suprised that you're the only one able to. ;)
    For me usually it's about the same wattages as you, occasionally a lot higher. The big clouds are only an inevitable byproduct from my being a flavor chaser who thinks flavor and feel of the vape are in no way separable when it comes to getting the kind of vape that is a satisfying one, but no, it wouldn't be fair to say that you have experience with this particular subject because you keep posting all the clear evidence in the world that you have zero experience with that.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2018
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  47. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Oh? Then try just firing your coil and not sucking on the atty and see how fast your wick burns.
     
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  48. gbalkam

    gbalkam Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reddit Exile

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    It wouldn't burn at all if I were building for that.
    Cotton will self-ignite at roughly 400 degrees C
    The aerosol of electronic cigarettes is generated when the e-liquid reaches a temperature of roughly 100–250 °C

    So
    as long as you keep your wick painted, the same as you would do while vaping anyway... your cotton would never burn.. .with NO AIRFLOW
     
  49. The Cromwell

    The Cromwell The Frugal Vapist VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    That is only true if you are using GOOD temperature control mod.

    Watts does not care about temperature.
     
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  50. CactusFanaticus

    CactusFanaticus Silver Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Nothing wrong with stainless on a mech, all I use. Fast ramp up and super clean taste. Nickel on the other hand is a different story.
     
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