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Unregulated Pulse Questions

Hello,
I just got into RDAs after using tanks for last 6weeks or so I've been vaping for.
I got a Vandy Vape Pulse Sqounk box. Bought a 18650 2500maH/3.7v battery for it and have single coil Rabbit sqounk RDA and DigiFlavor Mesh RDA. I build regular coils on each. 5wrap 24/30 Kanthal Clapton (.7ohm)and 5wrap 24/30 Clapton with a twist 24g Kanthal (.24ohm)in the centers. Sry, very new and dont know the proper name for that build. Anyway it seems to take forever to start vaping and it's a very cool and muted vape.
Where did I go wrong? Do I need a bigger battery? A different RDA? A different coil build? It was used, so could it possibly be slightly broke somehow? It works, I had a Twisted 24g Kanthal 5wrap and that heated up fast tho, but the flavor was still very muted. My tanks give more flavor. Any advice or suggestions to make this work would be greatly appreciated. I have a Sigelei Fuchai 213w that they work great on, I would like to use them (RDAs) away from the house tho without having to constantly drip. That's why I got the Sqounk cuz I like the RDA flavor over my tanks.

Thanks in advance for any replys.
Your time is appreciated.
 

JuicyLucy

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The Pulse has tremendous sag and is just not a very well built mod

Why it became popular I will never know

Beefy builds will take forever to heat up on it

Sorry you got duped into buying the Pulse. If you are enjoying those atties on regular mods, you will need to try a different squonker -

Plenty of folks here can recommend squonkers that will work well with those atties and the builds you are enjoying

Good luck!
 

Heartsdelight

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What she said ^^ is true but you can get it to work if you try to put a build .30ish ohms in & try not to use beefy coils. Something like juggernaut coils, single wire builds or simple Clapton’s in Ni80 or SS.

Also what brand of batteries are you using?
 

f1r3b1rd

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I have that particular mod; but, I do have a few Mech squonkers. (Boxer and toaster). I usually use a single coil atty on them with quad core 30gss Claptons wrapped with 40gss and build 5 wraps with a 3mm Id. They heat up immediately and tend produce loads of flavor and vapor.
At times I’ll use a goon in dual coil with the same wire and 4 wraps per coil at a 2.5mm id for a total of 0.15ohms.
That dual coil build will rock; but, it
Kills the run time on the batteries, so I try to stick with the single coils for out and about.
 

MyMagicMist

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I usually use a single coil atty on them with quad core 30gss Claptons wrapped with 40gss and build 5 wraps with a 3mm Id.

Use a different mod but I do similar with coils. I might use different wire but the "sweet spot" is around 0.30 ohms, which is usually 5 wraps at 3mm ID. Played a little with 7 wraps on a 3mm ID, it does alright at 0.60 to 0.80 ohms. Have noticed some of what Steam Engine suggests produces a wide band of ohms. For example I can go from 0.50 to 0.70 using say five wraps at 3mm ID with one gauge of wire, but only 0.50 with same gauge but different material.

I don't suffer lack of flavor, instead I enjoy it. :)
 

f1r3b1rd

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Use a different mod but I do similar with coils. I might use different wire but the "sweet spot" is around 0.30 ohms, which is usually 5 wraps at 3mm ID. Played a little with 7 wraps on a 3mm ID, it does alright at 0.60 to 0.80 ohms. Have noticed some of what Steam Engine suggests produces a wide band of ohms. For example I can go from 0.50 to 0.70 using say five wraps at 3mm ID with one gauge of wire, but only 0.50 with same gauge but different material.

I don't suffer lack of flavor, instead I enjoy it. :)
My single coil is usually around a 0.28-0.3 ohm. The flavor out of the hadalay and the gorge is simply amazing with that build.
Have a nudge 22 and 24 enroute to try also. :)
I’m guessing the variance in resisornade is based on how tight the outer wrap is wound. That or maybe the type ss?
 

Arthur-VU

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Ideally, on a mech squonker you want a low mass build, meaning either 2-strand parallel, 2-strand twisted, or single round wire.

All of the fancy builds will have very slow ramp time, be a cooler vape, and run down the battery faster.

Also, a single-coil 22mm (or smaller) RDA with a reduced chamber will give a hotter vape at higher ohms, such as a Wasp Nano, Nudge 22 and many others, Haku, KRMA, NarDa, Hadaly, Entheon, Gas Mods Nixon S, etc....

Try 5 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 3mm ID, single round wire, comes out to ~0.27 Ohms, ramps quick, tons of flavor and clouds, and decent battery life on a 25a CDR (not pulse rating) or higher cel.

My Pulse BF out of the box had a 0.6v drop, but after very gently pinching the little clamp for the killswitch with a pair of needle-nose pliers, the drop is now 0.3v, which is closer to the average for lots of other mech mods.

DJLSB shows how to do this in his review video from back around Nov 2017.

Also, clean the battery contacts, since they tend to oxidize over time.
 

Raymcconn

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Pretty much what everyone said, when I used mine I ran a single coil 0.27 - 0.30 build on it. Still has the voltage drop problem and just doesn't do it for me.
I ended up putting it up on a shelf and there she sits.
 

MyMagicMist

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The flavor out of the hadalay and the gorge is simply amazing with that build.
Have a nudge 22 and 24 enroute to try also. :)
I’m guessing the variance in resisornade is based on how tight the outer wrap is wound. That or maybe the type ss?

I'm thinking it has to do with tautness / tightness. I only use a plain old SS316, it isn't anything fancy. Not tried a hadalay yet, do like my gorge a lot though. :) Found out too the dead rabbit sq can do well. . I wrapped up a build for on a velocity style, one of the v2s. At first I thought "ha, I'll do a vertical build" then, it dawned on me to put the coil long ways horizontal between the posts. Not like this __ off to one side or the other but like | that going across the deck between the posts. I think you'll be able to grasp what I'm saying, if not can get a pic later.

I was aiming to have it hit around the mystic 0.30 but wound up around 0.20 instead. The way it's built and the deck, it's not as hot as other 0.20 builds I've done. Still a damn battery hog, for me it seems anything lower than 0.30 is a battery hog. Much as I was hoping to avoid a dual battery mod for a squonker, ... might need to consider it. Still rather not use regulated but it may not be what I rather, may need regulated. Or I could avoid building lower than 0.30 ohms. *chuckles* "Oh but I wanna go play with the 'big' boys!" *lol*

I think it is probably bad enough as it is I've tried twice accidentally to blow my face off. Figure the one time it was a battery issue, as in the battery was not what it was labeled. The other time I might admit to a bit of club headiness and not realizing there was flecks of metal either in the mod or on the battery. It'll learn you up real quick. A person needs to be careful.
 
Thanks for all the replys, I'll have to Google a bit and maybe YouTube a bit to understand all of it cuz some of it went over my head being so new to RDA side of vaping. But I am very good with my hands. These are my 4th(Clapton/Twisted) and 5th(Twisted) coils I've built. I wanna try more builds but I wanted to figure out at least to have ones I can use for now. I'm looking into a another RDA. So far I've narrowed it down to either a Stainless Edition Peerless or a Drop. Also, I have an 18650 2500mah 3.7v battery in my Pulse. Should I upgrade it to the 27000 battery? Or does just a higher amp, mah, voltage 18650. Also any recommendations on 18650s? I have a Sigelei Fuchai 213w and this Pulse. I also rubbed a bit of Dielectric grease on my Pulse's contact points after I scrubbed the hell outta it when I brought it home.

Again thank you guys for all the replys!
 

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Heartsdelight

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888DD2AE-8BC6-4C72-8DAD-5AAA38A4AF8A.jpeg
Thanks for all the replys, I'll have to Google a bit and maybe YouTube a bit to understand all of it cuz some of it went over my head being so new to RDA side of vaping. But I am very good with my hands. These are my 4th(Clapton/Twisted) and 5th(Twisted) coils I've built. I wanna try more builds but I wanted to figure out at least to have ones I can use for now. I'm looking into a another RDA. So far I've narrowed it down to either a Stainless Edition Peerless or a Drop. Also, I have an 18650 2500mah 3.7v battery in my Pulse. Should I upgrade it to the 27000 battery? Or does just a higher amp, mah, voltage 18650. Also any recommendations on 18650s? I have a Sigelei Fuchai 213w and this Pulse. I also rubbed a bit of Dielectric grease on my Pulse's contact points after I scrubbed the hell outta it when I brought it home.

Again thank you guys for all the replys!
What brand is your 18650 battery?
Here is a list of Mooch’s battery chart for 20700’s
 

Heartsdelight

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9CD478BD-5E82-4D0C-8CDD-18E1BEB6EA82.jpeg B4B1A656-2DA8-4339-9FB8-7BACC3D97DCE.jpeg
Samsung, it says on the battery:
INR 18650-25R
Samsung SDI
5 2H72
Sticker says:
18650 3.7V 2500mah
Most people recommend the Sony vtc5a for mechs it’s a 25A battery.
The Samsung 25R is a good battery but it’s a 20A battery. Don’t build too low ohms.
I have the Sanyo NCR 20700A, 3100 mah 30amp battery it’s a good one. I also have the iJoy 20700 5 leg battery. I recently got the Samsung 40T 21700 battery but the Samsung 30T 21700 is recommended for lower ohms higher wattage & mechs.

I would suggest you read up on Battery Mooch on Facebook or on ECF for battery safety. Read up on basic ohms laws too.

I hope others that are more experienced with batteries post some of their suggestions for you.
 

Heartsdelight

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View attachment 118433 View attachment 118434
Samsung, it says on the battery:
INR 18650-25R
Samsung SDI
5 2H72
Sticker says:
18650 3.7V 2500mah
Most people recommend the Sony vtc5a for mechs it’s a 25A battery.
The Samsung 25R is a good battery but it’s a 20A battery. Don’t build too low ohms.
I have the Sanyo NCR 20700A, 3100 mah 30amp battery it’s a good one. I also have the iJoy 20700 5 leg battery. I recently got the Samsung 40T 21700 battery but the Samsung 30T 21700 is recommended for lower ohms higher wattage & mechs.

I would suggest you read up on Battery Mooch on Facebook or on ECF for battery safety. Read up on basic ohms laws too.

I hope others that are more experienced with batteries post some of their suggestions for you.
 
View attachment 118433 View attachment 118434
Most people recommend the Sony vtc5a for mechs it’s a 25A battery.
The Samsung 25R is a good battery but it’s a 20A battery. Don’t build too low ohms.
I have the Sanyo NCR 20700A, 3100 mah 30amp battery it’s a good one. I also have the iJoy 20700 5 leg battery. I recently got the Samsung 40T 21700 battery but the Samsung 30T 21700 is recommended for lower ohms higher wattage & mechs.

I would suggest you read up on Battery Mooch on Facebook or on ECF for battery safety. Read up on basic ohms laws too.

I hope others that are more experienced with batteries post some of their suggestions for you.
I know quite a bit about batteries and ohms law. I do SPL Bass(sound pressure level) competion builds. Subwoofers come in 4ohm 2ohm 1ohm even heard of .5 ohm subwoofer could. And you need to be fairly versed in ohms laws and batteries to be sure your not putting stuff together wrong and damaging equipment. I know this is different but I've come to see that alot of that knowledge crosses over.
I have to check out them Sony vtc Batts. Thx
 

Heartsdelight

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I know quite a bit about batteries and ohms law. I do SPL Bass(sound pressure level) competion builds. Subwoofers come in 4ohm 2ohm 1ohm even heard of .5 ohm subwoofer could. And you need to be fairly versed in ohms laws and batteries to be sure your not putting stuff together wrong and damaging equipment. I know this is different but I've come to see that alot of that knowledge crosses over.
I have to check out them Sony vtc Batts. Thx
That’s great! I hope the charts above helps. When using my Pulse mod the Sanyo NCR 20700A hits really well for me if I build @ around .30 ish ohms.
 
That’s great! I hope the charts above helps. When using my Pulse mod the Sanyo NCR 20700A hits really well for me if I build @ around .30 ish ohms.
Yea, I think that dual wrap .25 ohm just had too much mass. I made a smaller twisted Kanthal then the first one I made(one less wrap) and it's working quite a bit better but still a pretty mellow hit. And takes a second to get going. But when it does it's great. I seen the new Pulse X 90w, I think I may try to sell this one and pick up one of them.
 

Ralph_K

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The pulse bf mod you need to build low because it has a lot of voltage drop. Mine won't even produce much vapor at .25 ohm got a recurve rda with a .16 build and that does OK but .12 would be better
 

Syythe

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For 25a 18650s, I like the Samsung 25S a little better than the Sony VTC5A. It hits harder and seems to run longer. If you want 30A, the Samsung 20S seems to be the best option in that catagory, it's a true 30a battery but has more mah than the rest of the 30a 18650 batteries we have avaliable to us.
 

Rex EvErything

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pinch the kill switch with some needle nose pliers so it is super tight on the little positive nub...and try to use a 20700 battery so you dont get voltage drop from the adapter....
 

Pastorfuzz

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I soldered my switch and use 20700 batteries.
It works fine.
Also a lot of people here saying no flavor with the Rabbit.
IMO, keep your coils as low as possible on the deck.
I also run the Priest Caps on mine and it's much better with less spit back.
 

gpjoe

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I soldered my switch and use 20700 batteries.
It works fine.
Also a lot of people here saying no flavor with the Rabbit.
IMO, keep your coils as low as possible on the deck.
I also run the Priest Caps on mine and it's much better with less spit back.

This^^^

Pinching the contacts probably will work in a pinch (yeah I said it) but soldering the connection should reduce the voltage drop even more and I would think a lot easier than removing it and replacing it with a wire or copper strip. I will likely solder mine at some point, but gotta dig it out of the dusty depths of neglect first.

And the Dead Rabbit was one of the least flavorful RDAs I have ever used. I had the SQ version and it was pretty terrible.
 

Pastorfuzz

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This^^^

Pinching the contacts probably will work in a pinch (yeah I said it) but soldering the connection should reduce the voltage drop even more and I would think a lot easier than removing it and replacing it with a wire or copper strip. I will likely solder mine at some point, but gotta dig it out of the dusty depths of neglect first.

And the Dead Rabbit was one of the least flavorful RDAs I have ever used. I had the SQ version and it was pretty terrible.
I've had pretty good luck with the Rabbits. I keep the coils close to the air holes in the Challenge caps and they taste great.
I started using Rayon in them also and it makes a difference in flavor.
Never tried the SQ. Now i'm spoiled on the Profile RDA's.
That's all I use at work now. They don't leak in my pocket.
 

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