Ti Coil vamping at 100*??

[kstat83]

I'm a fairly experienced builder. I do pretty well with nickel, and thought id give Ti a try.

Using the Xcube2.

I build a dual coil which should ohm out to .12 per steam-engine. The cube reads it at .26 and my ohm reader at .33. All steady though, no jumping around.

I made sure to set the temp coefficient appropriately on the cube. But unless I manually go into the cubes unique feature that allows me to manually adjust the initial ohm reading and lower it, i get a quite hot, fast vape that never reaches temp. It shows something like 140* max. So obviously something's wrong.

If I pull the I "initial ohm" down closer to what it should be, say, around .2, the temp at which I stop because it's clearly hot, moved up to closer to 250ish.

The point is, for Temp Control and Ti, how have others been finding it? Do your meters match your devices (close anyway)?

Help me out here. I'd like to be able to work with Ti and TC and leave Ni behind because I use RTAs and getting resistance where I need with 30g Ni is a bear. But so far Ti is winning this round. I can't seam to get a handle on it.

Thanks all!


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[AmandaD]

I find the key with tc is to make your coil, wick it, juice it all up, and then leave it sitting at least 15 minutes before locking the temp on the mod. I have a USA ohm meter and it usually gives me the same reading as my sx mini (or close enough). What a coil is suppsed to be and what it actually reads can be different depending on connections etc. If you try and tell the mod it's something else I find I get a poor result.

 

[kstat83]

Unfortunately the cub2 doesn't really have a "lock" mechanism for the resistance. It appears to take initial resistance and automatically keep it there. But the initial readings often appear quite off. Even with nickel. So when i use the feature that allows me to manually adjust the initial ohms I'm able to adjust the vape to get it right. Can't seam to reproduce the method with Ti though. Seams to either fire hard and fast giving me a much hotter denser vape than the temp reading would indicate, or none at all. I may try a dripper just to reduce some of the variables the tanks bring into the picture.


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[Mattp169]

what tank are you using?

 

[TheFog]

What version of the cube do u have?. Firmware that is...I have one as well at 1.06...I thought it had a lock for ohms?

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[kstat83]

I updated the firmware. It is now 1.08. There is a feature that allows you to manually adjust the initial ohm reading. Not by much, but I find it greatly helpful in fine-tuning my nickel builds.

That said, I just can't seem to get a handle on this Ti. The build I posted about earlier fried at amazingly low temp. So I built a single coil, came out a little high at .48, but I figured for testing purposes it'd be fine, but I can't get a vape out of it unless the temp is vey very high. Very strange. I must be missing something?

Spaced or micro coils?


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[kstat83]

what tank are you using?

The dual I tried was on a goblin mini. The single I just tried was on a TFV4


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[AmandaD]

For TI I generally build coils 2.5-3mm touching. And I dry burn them until they turn blue.

 

[kstat83]

Let me clarify. The coil I wrapped ohms out at .48. The coefficient is as I understand it should be, .00350. Left as is, I need to have the temp maxed at 600 to produce whispy vape. IF I manually adjust the "initial ohms" reading, as the mod calls it, up as much as it will allow, to .53, it will then produce mediocre vapor at a temp setting just over 500. If anyone can suss out anything I'm missing here, I'd be immensely grateful.

Edit: when I put it on my eleaf TC it runs very well at 350* and up. But on the cube, in Ti mode, nothin!


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[AmandaD]

Let me clarify. The coil I wrapped ohms out at .48. The coefficient is as I understand it should be, .00350. Left as is, I need to have the temp maxed at 600 to produce whispy vape. IF I manually adjust the "initial ohms" reading, as the mod calls it, up as much as it will allow, to .53, it will then produce mediocre vapor at a temp setting just over 500. If anyone can suss out anything I'm missing here, I'd be immensely grateful.

Edit: when I put it on my eleaf TC it runs very well at 350* and up. But on the cube, in Ti mode, nothin!


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I have a feeling it's sometimes best to run TI coils in Ni mode, even if the mod supports Ti. I currently have a billow with TI on my SX Mini M class, but it seems to run much better in Ni mode than in Ti mode.

 

[kstat83]

I have a feeling it's sometimes best to run TI coils in Ni mode, even if the mod supports Ti. I currently have a billow with TI on my SX Mini M class, but it seems to run much better in Ni mode than in Ti mode.

You read my mind. After realizing it ran well on the eleaf, I switched my Cube2 back into Ni mode and, lo and behold, it functioned fine.

Since the only difference between the two "modes" is the Mod's temp coefficient value, here's what that tells me:

A: The temp coefficient setting of .00350 is not accurate to the Spider Silk 26g I've got.

B: That .00350 number itself (which it appears most mods use in their Ti programming, either as an adjustable default as in my Cube2, or as a non-adjustable default) may simply not be correct.

C: (more likely) The temp coefficient setting of .00350 is not translated correctly by the mod's firmware.

D: (most likely) My brain is fried and my eyes are oozing blood from tinkering all afternoon and I'm just a fool.

Thing is, I love nickel. I just also love RTAs, and the combo can be a bear. I had hoped Ti would be the answer to marrying TC and RTAs. May well be, but if so I've still got some work to do.

Perhaps I'll start a thread inviting people to show off their favorite and most successful Ti builds.


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[AmandaD]

The only box I have with a TI mode is the SX mini with the TI test update. Up until recently I thought it was working ok, in spite of reading about various people saying it didn't. Now I see what they were saying, so I'll just stick to the Ni mode until they finally do an official update. In spite of this my ni will stay unused, because it's so much easier to work with and maintain ti. I go through a lot of juice per day and so I rewick and dry burn fairly often. I found I got very little life out of ni coils, because they couldn't be dry burned.

 

[Erck]

Kastat: Just a suggestion, but with some of these meters that are suppose to be "Auto Zeroing" I, I have found they usually don't. Next time, before measuring your coils resistance, put the to lead together and see if they read zero. If they don't, subtract the number you got from your reading and you will come out a lot closer to reality. If the error is not corrected in your very first step, it will be compounded along the way. If your coming out higher than expected, bear in mind all that wire between the end of the coil and the mounting screw or post adds to the resistance of the coil and the contact at the ground or positive post/screw need to be tight without cutting your wire. Contact resistance is usually the biggest contributor to increased system resistance. Although I have not had to do this, it might help. Close to the ends of your coil sliver solder a piece of silver wire and use that as your connection leads. The silver wire has a very low resistance and will therefore add little to your system resistance..
Eric