Subtank Mini RBA airflow + HOT ASS VAPE :<

[johntheawe]

So I did a parallel build today and wicked it. This was after I drilled the surrounding piece of the rba section for better juice flow. I had already widened the juice channels, which didn't do much for me, so I did that. That's completely irrelevant to the hot vape. I just HATE hot vapor. I love flavor, and I love good airflow, but the rba peice's airflow is SOOO restrictive, even though the airflow ring is WIDE open. Is their ANYTHING I can do to get more airflow? I think that would help with cooling down the vapor, while also making it a better experience overall. Thanks for recommendations! :3

 

[johntheawe]

One thing to note, the build is at around 0.36 ohm and I was vaping it at about 28 watts. Now, I also should say, I already know that parallel coils tend to be hotter too. I really just need to know how I could get better airflow.

 

[madmonkey]

what gauge wire are you building that parallel build with? there's only so much drilling you could do to that tiny RDA deck to widen your airflow, I mean tiny....it's great that kanger gave the RDA option but I personally like rebuilding the OCC heads better myself, I gave my RDA deck to a friend who stripped out the post screw holes.....I mean, the only way I know to really cool down a parallel build without increasing airflow is to use a thicker gauge wire but I don't know if that would work in such a small deck....it's kinda like a Kayfun bell, it's a really small chamber to help concentrate the flavor.

Maybe someone will have a better answer than that but the easiest thing might be one gauge thinner wire so you can run your wattage lower....I would go to the steam engine tool, I"ll link it below...you can set up virtual builds and see what kind of heat flux they'll give off at what wattage and power settings in any size coil....select the dual coil option because it will be the same as a single parallel coil numbers wise and play around with it and see if you can find a build that will fit that tiny deck paralleled the way you like it....if I can think of something better in the meantime I will get back to you Best of luck and I am sorry it's too hot for you

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

I would also try building an OCC head if you have a used up one around with the same build and see if that helps...they just seem to have more air to me and they get hot at 24 watts stock in my opinion...usually I drip around 50-80 watts depending on my build with my RDA's and I run my Kayfun with a 1.3 ohm coil at 12.5 watts because I don't like a super hot build either...that's why I am trying to think of something that could help, I like a cooler vape myself...if you get it figured out you'd be helping me out as well so maybe we can try and help eachother

 

[johntheawe]

26 Gauge wire. I've used steam engine. I usually use it just to see the outcome of builds. I wish they had a reversed tool where you can put in your wire, and how many wraps you're going to do, and see the outcome but you can only put in your ohm outcome that you want. I'm usually dripping around .20-.30 and at around 65-100 watts. I hope we come to a conclusion on lowering the temp. I like watching Rip Trippers about builds and such, but he LOVES a hot vape so I never like the build outcomes.

 

[madmonkey]

26 Gauge wire. I've used steam engine. I usually use it just to see the outcome of builds. I wish they had a reversed tool where you can put in your wire, and how many wraps you're going to do, and see the outcome but you can only put in your ohm outcome that you want. I'm usually dripping around .20-.30 and at around 65-100 watts. I hope we come to a conclusion on lowering the temp. I like watching Rip Trippers about builds and such, but he LOVES a hot vape so I never like the build outcomes.

you can adjust the wattage to see the heatflux if thats what you mean? the steam engine can do pretty much all things virtual vaping wise you can set your wire, wraps, diameter, wattage, leg length, pretty much everything...in the heat flux box the default is "@ 10 watts"...you can adjust that to see how hot the vape will be by adjusting power applied to your coil design...sorry if that's not what you meant, just trying to help

 

[johntheawe]

I already knew that

 

[madmonkey]

I already knew that

Well alright then, that's why I was asking, I didn't know if you did or didn't...when I first started using the bloody thing it took me a bit to figure out and I felt dumb about it so i thought it was worth mentioning it.

I can tell you that I can build a 24 gauge single parallel kanthal build of 5 wraps on a 1/8th drill bit and it's going to meter at .24 and be cool but still nicely warm and then I can build a 23 gauge single parallel build with 6 wraps and the same diameter and it will be the same resistance but be considerably cooler if fired on the same unregulated mech....I don't need the steam engine to tell me how to get a cooler vape, I can figure it out for myself...I've been building long enough and practiced enough. And I am sure you have as well

The problem is that you're trying to stuff what is a shit ton of wire into a small space and anything you're going to do is going to heat up super quick from lack of airflow and being in a highly compressed space.

I've been going back and forth playing with my dual coil 25 gauge build in my tobh and my dual parallel 26 gauge build in my patriot with a glass cap on it and at the same voltage they give off about the same about of it, but there is a 30 watt difference because of the difference in resistance....

Maybe the answer is just less voltage...I mean, I run a 1.3 ohm coil in my Kayfun still and I only vape it at about 12-13 watts and that's plenty warm enough, sure I am not going to fog the room up but it's not meant too, it's made for flavor after all. I like to drip at about 70 watts on either a single or dual parallel build that meters around .25ish. but my regular dual coil build that's around .4 something keeps me happy as well in my TOBH and it's only 30 something watts since I run it on a stainless steel nemisis. You know with the kind of voltage drop a stainless mech has I am not getting anywhere over 3.7-3.8 volts to the coils tops and that's only for a couple vapes before the battery starts to drain. Tanks, even the sub ohm tanks, not all of them were meant to run as hot as drippers and you don't need super high wattage to get a good vape from them. You can try adding another wrap to your build as well if all else fails...give the mod more work to do...the more the wire the more it takes to heat up afterall.

Yes, I am just rambling but I was hoping that if I rambled for all the world to see I'd have a moment of clarity after I posted this...although I doubt it as tired as I am...maybe my dribbling with do just the same for you

 

[EarnestAccord]

Appologies for resurecting this thread, but I thought I'd bump this as Jontheawe asked a question that I too have scoured the net for and in this thread got sadly redirected.The Subtank mini's airflow is way more constricted than their prebuilt OCC. I've built all types of coils in the RTA from small horizontals to big vertical chimneys, almost too big to fit wicking and I still get quite a noticable restriction in the RTA and subsequently, IMHO, much less flavor than in the OCC. I originally bought the Subtank mini because of the RTA. It's air flow is restricted to such a degree that I'm now thinking of purchasing a Lemo 2. Before I do though, I'm thinking of one last tweek, drilling out the 4 air holes at the base of the rebuildable atomizer. The rebuildable's 4 bottom air holes are noticably smaller than the OCC's and with some deduction I think are the constriction point. Obviously this is a real small space to try to work on. Has anyone else done this or at least maybe found another solution?
Thanks for the support

 

[PuffPuffPass]

Appologies for resurecting this thread, but I thought I'd bump this as.....
Obviously this is a real small space to try to work on. Has anyone else done this or at least maybe found another solution?
Thanks for the support

For both of you.

I had this issue early on. I did not want to be drilling anything, except as a last resort.

My fix, reduce the cotton. This deck is really picky about the amount of cotton utilized. My first build got tossed, because I was literally sucking my eyeballs out. :/

It's still hit and miss occasionally. Probably will remain so, unless someone can tell me an exact method to measure my cotton.

I'm getting acceptable air and juice flow. Using 25/75 pg/vg.

You'll use ever how much you need to use. But sometimes, less is more.

 

[EarnestAccord]

I get how reducing my cotton, with my vertical build, might help eliminate the wick to coil clearance issue. The larger diameter vertical coil kept me changing the wick every 2-3 days. The wicking pressed between the coil and the post was so tight and thin that it scortched pretty quickly. What I dont see is how that would increase air-flow. Would you mind elaberating? I mean, don't get me wrong, I try it. I recently built a rectangular coil, to maintain the same coil volume as my original vertical, but create better clearence for my wicking and while that's put to rest the wicking issue I'm still getting restricted air flow.
Thanks for the support

 

[PuffPuffPass]

I get how reducing my cotton, with my vertical build, might help eliminate the wick to coil clearance issue. The larger diameter vertical coil kept me changing the wick every 2-3 days. The wicking pressed between the coil and the post was so tight and thin that it scortched pretty quickly. What I dont see is how that would increase air-flow. Would you mind elaberating? I mean, don't get me wrong, I try it. I recently built a rectangular coil, to maintain the same coil volume as my original vertical, but create better clearence for my wicking and while that's put to rest the wicking issue I'm still getting restricted air flow.
Thanks for the support

Hurm, I saw no mention of vertical in the OP. But if that's the case, I offer apologies. I have nothing to offer there.