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Struggling To Get The Hyped Flavor From Aromamizer V2

Selver

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Hey all, I picked up an Aromamizer V2 a couple months back and since then I haven't been able to get good flavor out of this tank. That being said, it could just be that I'm bad at building, as I couldn't get proper flavor out of the Lemo Drop either.

I'm running just regular, un-spaced 26 gauge A1 Kanthal, horizontal, wrapped 9 times at 3mm, wicked with regular Japanese cotton, running between 35w and 45w. Bottom half of the coils are visible through the air holes. I only have a Siegelei 50, so I try not to push it to 50w as I dont want to strain the circuit board too much. I've tried verticals, vertical spaced, vertical claptons. I've followed all kinds of videos, ranging from C-Town, theModernGypsy, Heathen, RipTrippers, Northern Fog.. I just haven't been able to nail it. The flavor isnt horrible, as if there's gunk in there, there's just little to no flavor. Plenty of vapor, no dry hits (the vapor itself frequently feels dry though unless I drip a couple drops directly onto the coils). Closing the airflow off halfway doesn't improve it either, it just makes it much hotter.

I've tried the Scottish Roll as well, and that seems to help a little, but not much. When not using the Scottish Roll method, I use 5/16" width, with just the top and bottom compressed layers removed. I trim the wick with the outside of the deck and gently tuck it in, trying to leave a wide enough hole for airflow between the tails, making sure the tails cover the juice holes well.

My budget really doesn't allow for me to pursue another tank, and I know this is a good tank, and I would hate to chalk up another tank as one that I just failed with. If anyone has any tips or suggestions as to how Im not building this right, I'd be much obliged. Thanks.

(Sorry for the picture quality, best camera I have is my phone)
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Selver

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I get plenty of flavor from this tank. 10 wraps with 24 awg Nichrome 80, 2.5mm coils.

I like the tank a lot, and I know it's capable of a lot, I just seem to be failing hard when it comes to wicking it. How much wick do you use?
 

HondaDavidson

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Don't take this wrong.. But... Do you know good flavor from bad or were you just expecting more. Your over thinking things and falling for the hype.

Also sounds like you are jumping from style of build and wick to style instead of PERFECTING a style before giving it up. It can take several builds to get a scottish roll or any wicking style correct. Just to have to relearn how to do it on the next style of build.
I use Cotton Ball wicks.... For coils of 2.5mm to 3.5mm id.. I unroll the ball peel off a bit about a 1/4 to 3/8 " wide 2 to 3" long and very lightly roll that. Insert into coil and cut to length.. Pretty much the same proceedure for every atomizer and build I have. The hard part is determining the correct amount between the 1/4" and 3/8" starting width.

Then there's wattage try using less. You don't need wattage to make flavor.
 

Selver

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Don't take this wrong.. But... Do you know good flavor from bad or were you just expecting more. Your over thinking things and falling for the hype.

Also sounds like you are jumping from style of build and wick to style instead of PERFECTING a style before giving it up. It can take several builds to get a scottish roll or any wicking style correct. Just to have to relearn how to do it on the next style of build.
I use Cotton Ball wicks.... For coils of 2.5mm to 3.5mm id.. I unroll the ball peel off a bit about a 1/4 to 3/8 " wide 2 to 3" long and very lightly roll that. Insert into coil and cut to length.. Pretty much the same proceedure for every atomizer and build I have. The hard part is determining the correct amount between the 1/4" and 3/8" starting width.

Then there's wattage try using less. You don't need wattage to make flavor.

I started off vaping with an Aspire Atlantis, so I've been basing my flavor experience off of that. Right now I feel like Im getting less flavor out of my Aromamizer than I was out of my Atlantis. That's not to say I think the Aromamizer is bad, just that I'm doing it wrong.

I've been working on the horizontal for a while now, since I read that it was more of a beginner's build.

20 watts produces little vapor and no flavor, it isnt until 35 watts that it starts to produce noticeable flavor. It's possible that I just have some poor quality juice, but there was a hit or two during my attempts with the vertical coils that I had full depth of flavor. For reference, Im using Humble Juice's Sweater Puppets. I've tried changing juice flavors to test if I'm just getting vaper's tongue, but didn't notice anything suggesting that I was.

Thanks.
 

HondaDavidson

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20 watts can produce from zero vapor and cold air to a fooled room and scalded tingue. The deference is the build. So the fact that you haven't gotten it working yet just means you haven't tried the right build.

What wire do you have. I suggest 3 or 4 rolls of different sizes. Me I vape at 30 watts or less. The thickest wire I build with is 28awg. at any given time I might be running anywhere between a .1ohm to 3 ohm build. I model all builds in a calculator like Vape tool and Steam-engine.org before building.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Jimi D

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I like the tank a lot, and I know it's capable of a lot, I just seem to be failing hard when it comes to wicking it. How much wick do you use?
The wick moves freely through the coils. But covers well. I then trim the sides so the juice travels to the coils faster. The wicks rest over the juice flow holes lightly.
 

Selver

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The wick moves freely through the coils. But covers well. I then trim the sides so the juice travels to the coils faster. The wicks rest over the juice flow holes lightly.
Ohhhhhh. It sounds like I may be using way too much wick then. I'll give that a try, thanks.
 

Selver

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20 watts can produce from zero vapor and cold air to a fooled room and scalded tingue. The deference is the build. So the fact that you haven't gotten it working yet just means you haven't tried the right build.

What wire do you have. I suggest 3 or 4 rolls of different sizes. Me I vape at 30 watts or less. The thickest wire I build with is 28awg. at any given time I might be running anywhere between a .1ohm to 3 ohm build. I model all builds in a calculator like Vape tool and Steam-engine.org before building.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I'm using Kanthal A1 26 gauge, dual coil at 9 wraps, coming out at 0.6 ohms. I built my coils in Steam Engine before I built them physically, and then tested them on a build deck before mounting them on my mod.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Don't forget.. It could just be.... that atomizer is not the atomizer for you.

Sounds like you have tried all kinds of builds.. I assume at many ohm rates and power levels using different wire.. maybe its the atomizer and not the builds or builder.

The best ...... in the world doesn't have to be your favorite or the best for you.
 

Ryedan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hey all, I picked up an Aromamizer V2 a couple months back and since then I haven't been able to get good flavor out of this tank. That being said, it could just be that I'm bad at building, as I couldn't get proper flavor out of the Lemo Drop either.

I'm running just regular, un-spaced 26 gauge A1 Kanthal, horizontal, wrapped 9 times at 3mm, wicked with regular Japanese cotton, running between 35w and 45w. Bottom half of the coils are visible through the air holes. I only have a Siegelei 50, so I try not to push it to 50w as I dont want to strain the circuit board too much. I've tried verticals, vertical spaced, vertical claptons. I've followed all kinds of videos, ranging from C-Town, theModernGypsy, Heathen, RipTrippers, Northern Fog.. I just haven't been able to nail it. The flavor isnt horrible, as if there's gunk in there, there's just little to no flavor. Plenty of vapor, no dry hits (the vapor itself frequently feels dry though unless I drip a couple drops directly onto the coils). Closing the airflow off halfway doesn't improve it either, it just makes it much hotter.

I've tried the Scottish Roll as well, and that seems to help a little, but not much. When not using the Scottish Roll method, I use 5/16" width, with just the top and bottom compressed layers removed. I trim the wick with the outside of the deck and gently tuck it in, trying to leave a wide enough hole for airflow between the tails, making sure the tails cover the juice holes well.

My budget really doesn't allow for me to pursue another tank, and I know this is a good tank, and I would hate to chalk up another tank as one that I just failed with. If anyone has any tips or suggestions as to how Im not building this right, I'd be much obliged. Thanks.

I really like my Aromamizer V1's and I think internally the V1 and V2 are the same. I have 2 thoughts I want to pass on to you.

Here is the build I'm vaping right now in Steam Engine. 27 gauge Kanthal, 2.5mm, 5/4 wraps at 33 watts. I also place the coils high like you do. Just for easy reference, here's what I think your build looks like.

Note the difference in heat flux ... mine is 280 at 33 watts and yours is 136 at 40 watts. I sometimes vape that low but not in this style atty. I think you need to either increase your watts or build higher in HF to get max flavor. If you want a cooler vape with 26g Kanthal, I would suggest something like this with 6/5 wraps at 0.4 ohms and 40 watts at a HF of 221. If you try that and see you're moving in the right direction you can experiment more with changing the build and see how it goes for you. I think 3mm ID is OK, but I've settled at 2.5. I tend to go bigger in bottom air flow, single coil tanks.

The second thing is, with this tank I find it's very, very easy to choke off the juice flow to the coils with the wick ends. I suggest you shorten the wicks so the ends are close to but not touching the juice holes. I also thin the wicks a bit. The way the tank is designed it will not leak this way as long as you keep it reasonably upright. Doing this will assure you you're keeping the coils really wet. Once you get the vape you want you can experiment with more wick over the juice holes to lessen leaking and you'll see right away what the change does to the vape. I've kinda settled on short wicks and accepting that it will leak if I put it on its side. This way it's really easy to wick very consistently all the time.

Hope some of that helps a bit and let us know what you try and how it goes!
 
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Selver

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Yes, you want the juice to feed the coils every time you take a hit. :)


I lessened the wick a bit so it wasn't quite so tight, and there's some improvement. I think I need to keep playing with it 'til I figure out the balance, but I think Im headed in the right direction. Thanks!
 

Selver

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I really like my Aromamizer V1's and I think internally the V1 and V2 are the same. I have 2 thoughts I want to pass on to you.

Here is the build I'm vaping right now in Steam Engine. 27 gauge Kanthal, 2.5mm, 5/4 wraps at 33 watts. I also place the coils high like you do. Just for easy reference, here's what I think your build looks like.

Note the difference in heat flux ... mine is 280 at 33 watts and yours is 136 at 40 watts. I sometimes vape that low but not in this style atty. I think you need to either increase your watts or build higher in HF to get max flavor. If you want a cooler vape with 26g Kanthal, I would suggest something like this with 6/5 wraps at 0.4 ohms and 40 watts at a HF of 221. If you try that and see you're moving in the right direction you can experiment more with changing the build and see how it goes for you. I think 3mm ID is OK, but I've settled at 2.5. I tend to go bigger in bottom air flow, single coil tanks.

The second thing is, with this tank I find it's very, very easy to choke off the juice flow to the coils with the wick ends. I suggest you shorten the wicks so the ends are close to but not touching the juice holes. I also thin the wicks a bit. The way the tank is designed it will not leak this way as long as you keep it reasonably upright. Doing this will assure you you're keeping the coils really wet. Once you get the vape you want you can experiment with more wick over the juice holes to lessen leaking and you'll see right away what the change does to the vape. I've kinda settled on short wicks and accepting that it will leak if I put it on its side. This way it's really easy to wick very consistently all the time.

Hope some of that helps a bit and let us know what you try and how it goes!

Numbers help me so much, thank you thank you. And yes, I'm pretty sure you nailed my specs. I'm not afraid of it getting warm, just afraid of it getting too hot, considering I dont have any sort of temp control.

I've been very concerned that there isn't enough energy, in one way or another, being used in my build, since I see a lot of posts of people with similar builds saying they're vaping at around 60 watts or higher, but my mod isn't capable of such, and I didn't want to go out on a limb and buy a new mod just to find out I've just been building wrong.

I'll try out the build you suggested until I feel more comfortable dealing with hotter builds.
Very excited for numbers. I'll post back here when I have some time to build and test.
 

Jimi D

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I lessened the wick a bit so it wasn't quite so tight, and there's some improvement. I think I need to keep playing with it 'til I figure out the balance, but I think Im headed in the right direction. Thanks!
You're welcome man. Try the 2.5mm coils. The chamber is quite small. I did notice flavor muting with 3mm coils before. Could be lack of airflow with those larger coils taking up the chamber room.
 

Selver

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You're welcome man. Try the 2.5mm coils. The chamber is quite small. I did notice flavor muting with 3mm coils before. Could be lack of airflow with those larger coils taking up the chamber room.

I'll try that too! I'll have to find something that small. The smallest coiling rod I have is a 3.2mm aluminum round bar dowel from Home Depot...
 

Jimi D

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I think I'm going to make a call to my local shop and see if they sell a jig. I'm really tired of coiling manually, ha.
I hear ya man. It takes a couple of seconds to build a coil with that tool ! Also the wraps are winded so tight, I never get spit back. :)
 

Ryedan

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I have a coiling jig but I find a precision screwdriver set is pretty useful too. I have one similar to this. The #1 Philips is 3mm, so I've got 1.8mm - 3mm covered. If you already have one, give it a try. I also have a good set of drill bits and a couple of pin vises. That combo works well too. Neither is as precise as a coil jig, but that can be fixed in the mod with a hot coil, tweezers and a dental pick too. Whatever works
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Selver

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Just an update so noone thinks I forgot, I picked up a Coil Master v4 off Amazon for $16. It's supposed to be here Monday, so I'm going to wait to do any coil building until then since I dont have anything that's round and 2.5mm wide to coil with anyways.
 

Selver

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The Coil Master V4 showed up on time. It's crazy how easy coiling is with that thing.

I'm currently running this with the airflow at 2 holes and the mod at 35w. I tried going 45w with four holes open but the wick definitely wasn't able to keep up, even for one draw. It's definitely airier, but the flavor seems to have only improved a little.

At this point it's either in my head, or I need to work on the wicking. The heat flux was only greenish-yellow on Steam Engine at 45w, so my guess is that suggests improper wicking. Thoughts?
 

Lefty

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It's a balancing act. As long as your coils are heating evenly then the most critical part is getting it wicked correctly. Ideally it should remain as saturated in use as it looks in the initial build. With cotton the mistake is commonly too much as opposed to too little. Too much can lead to problems keeping up or muted flavor and too little can lead to spitting or leaking. Keep looking at how to vids for the tank and experimenting till you get a feel for it. Some tanks are more finicky than others to get wicked right. Getting the airflow matched to the build is the other key to flavor.
 
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Ryedan

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I'm currently running this with the airflow at 2 holes and the mod at 35w. I tried going 45w with four holes open but the wick definitely wasn't able to keep up, even for one draw. It's definitely airier, but the flavor seems to have only improved a little.

At this point it's either in my head, or I need to work on the wicking. The heat flux was only greenish-yellow on Steam Engine at 45w, so my guess is that suggests improper wicking. Thoughts?

A picture of that build with the wicks installed would probably help Selver. IMO from what you describe my bet is you've got too much wick on the deck. One of mine was in need of a dry burn so I took some pics as I wicked it.

27 gauge Kanthal spaced at 0.37 ohms and 3mm ID
16ljjg4.jpg


jqksow.jpg


Cotton in and tails thinned
9ko0nl.jpg


This is what it looked like when I trialed the dry tails on the deck
t50olt.jpg


Wet wicks, shortened a bit more
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so they leave the juice holes completely clear
n3p0xs.jpg


xggoyh.jpg


I'm liking it at 35 watts right now. I wondered how high it would go and got up to 50 watts with no hint of even a dry hit, even if I chain vape it. Here it is in SE, with the heat flux way in the red at 424 :giggle:

It will definitely leak badly like this if I put it on its side because the holes are totally exposed, but as I said once you get it wicking well you can start adding cotton and try to find a sweet spot where it doesn't leak (much :)) and it still vapes well. At least you've got a starting point where you know what it's capable of.

This tank has frustrated a lot of people because it's so hard to find that sweet spot. I gave up and accepted that at best I can limit it to a slow leak. I close the air flow if I'm not sure I can keep it upright for a while, which really helps avoid a mess. Once I accepted that, it became one of my favorite and most dependable tanks.

Good luck with it!
 
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Selver

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A picture of that build with the wicks installed would probably help Selver. IMO from what you describe my bet is you've got too much wick on the deck. One of mine was in need of a dry burn so I took some pics as I wicked it.

27 gauge Kanthal spaced at 0.37 ohms and 3mm ID
16ljjg4.jpg


jqksow.jpg


Cotton in and tails thinned
9ko0nl.jpg


This is what it looked like when I trialed the dry tails on the deck
t50olt.jpg


Wet wicks, shortened a bit more
262bk9f.jpg


so they leave the juice holes completely clear
n3p0xs.jpg


xggoyh.jpg


I'm liking it at 35 watts right now. I wondered how high it would go and got up to 50 watts with no hint of even a dry hit, even if I chain vape it. Here it is in SE, with the heat flux way in the red at 424 :giggle:

It will definitely leak badly like this if I put it on its side because the holes are totally exposed, but as I said once you get it wicking well you can start adding cotton and try to find a sweet spot where it doesn't leak (much :)) and it still vapes well. At least you've got a starting point where you know what it's capable of.

This tank has frustrated a lot of people because it's so hard to find that sweet spot. I gave up and accepted that at best I can limit it to a slow leak. I close the air flow if I'm not sure I can keep it upright for a while, which really helps avoid a mess. Once I accepted that, it became one of my favorite and most dependable tanks.

Good luck with it!

It's very possible I do have too much wick on the deck. I've been trimming the tails even with the edge of the deck and then tucking them in on top of the holes.

Here's some quick pictures of my build. The tails pretty much cover the entire floor of the well. I'll play with shortening the wicks tomorrow.
Thanks for your continued help.

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marco67

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My prob with Aromamizer v1 was leaking, binned it in late 2015.
Picked it up last summer, overstuffed it with cotton. No leak,, No flavor.
Pulled bottom off, dosed with juice, Flavor.
28 guage.6ohm build up to 35 watts. After 8 hits,ugh.
Best i can suggest is to over stuff, wet, & then trim to slightly cover juice holes.
Ponderous? Yes, but you will streamline the technique.
Man, what we go through for a good vape..
 

Selver

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The plan was to rewick yesterday, but I came down with a pretty bad cold, and my tastebuds are still mucked up today. Plan is to rewick tomorrow if my tastebuds are back in order.

Thanks for all the continued help.
 

Ryedan

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The plan was to rewick yesterday, but I came down with a pretty bad cold, and my tastebuds are still mucked up today. Plan is to rewick tomorrow if my tastebuds are back in order.

Thanks for all the continued help.

Hope you feel better soon Selver!

Your build looks really good, but ya, trying less cotton as you said can't hurt IMO.

I vaped a coupe of tanks through my build at around 35 watts and liked it. Then I tried increasing the power again and got dry hits starting at around 45 watts. That's not too bad and if I had thicker or more wire in it (lower HF) I'm sure it would take more than that, but it got me thinking. I've been using cotton in everything for a few months now and remembered I had switched to Rayon for this tank a while back with good results. I rewicked with Rayon, same coils, and after a couple of tankfuls I can still run up to 60 watts. Rayon really does wick faster and keeps the coils wetter. Took a couple of pics of it after it was done. I used longer and thicker wicks, long enough so the tank only leaks a few drops when it's on its side for a while.

2873b6v.jpg


lzcs2.jpg


When it's set up with that much wick, I find I need to unscrew the tank slightly to line up 2 of the air holes with the coils otherwise the draw gets really tight. Not sure but I think some of these tanks line up air hole to coil better than others, but the two I'm using now don't.

One thing I noticed with your build is a coil leg could possibly be running a bit dry and mess you up. Have a look at the next pick, it's from your post of your build. If that bit of wire I point at is not fully in contact with the wick when you put the wick tail down onto the deck it could run a bit dry.

11htdsw.jpg
 
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Jimi D

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Selver, try Nichrome 80 24awg. The best is from Temco. I then do a 10 wrap 2.5mm. Comes out to .27 ohm. I run it at 38 watts. I did a fresh build today. 3% red raspberry juice and getting a ton of flavor.
 

Selver

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Hope you feel better soon Selver!

Your build looks really good, but ya, trying less cotton as you said can't hurt IMO.

I vaped a coupe of tanks through my build at around 35 watts and liked it. Then I tried increasing the power again and got dry hits starting at around 45 watts. That's not too bad and if I had thicker or more wire in it (lower HF) I'm sure it would take more than that, but it got me thinking. I've been using cotton in everything for a few months now and remembered I had switched to Rayon for this tank a while back with good results. I rewicked with Rayon, same coils, and after a couple of tankfuls I can still run up to 60 watts. Rayon really does wick faster and keeps the coils wetter. Took a couple of pics of it after it was done. I used longer and thicker wicks, long enough so the tank only leaks a few drops when it's on its side for a while.

2873b6v.jpg


lzcs2.jpg


When it's set up with that much wick, I find I need to unscrew the tank slightly to line up 2 of the air holes with the coils otherwise the draw gets really tight. Not sure but I think some of these tanks line up air hole to coil better than others, but the two I'm using now don't.

One thing I noticed with your build is a coil leg could possibly be running a bit dry and mess you up. Have a look at the next pick, it's from your post of your build. If that bit of wire I point at is not fully in contact with the wick when you put the wick tail down onto the deck it could run a bit dry.

11htdsw.jpg

I tried cutting the wicks a little shorter like you suggested and the flavor seems to be slightly better, but more worth mentioning, it seems more consistent. Beforehand I was actually having to drip in through the top to maintain flavor throughout the lifetime of the wick. It's still not perfect, but it seems to be headed in the right direction. Right now I'm using enough wick such that there's a little bit of resistance, I'll try playing with the amount some more. I also switched to a darker juice I haven't vaped in a while just to eliminate vaper's tongue (I had been vaping the previous juice for months straight).

You pointed out the leg of my wire possibly running dry. Because that leg goes high, do you have any suggestions on how to keep the wick in contact? or should I just try to bend the wick such that it presses against it? Also I wanted to ask you if I should go spaced. I noticed after I got everything built that your build was spaced, but I figured I should test what I had before I tried to go spaced, especially since I just bought a Coil Master. I assume with the amount of wick it looks like you're using you're using all four air holes open?

On the Rayon, I've heard people mention that too, but I have no experience with Rayon and haven't done any research into it.
Thanks for your replies.
 

Selver

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Selver, try Nichrome 80 24awg. The best is from Temco. I then do a 10 wrap 2.5mm. Comes out to .27 ohm. I run it at 38 watts. I did a fresh build today. 3% red raspberry juice and getting a ton of flavor.

I keep seeing people mention Nichrome too, but like the Rayon I haven't done much research into it and was under the impression it was mainly intended for Temp Control (I could be confused with another wire). I'll look into swapping to Nichrome when I look at moving into Rayon.

Thanks for your continued help.
 

inspects

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I been using Graham cellucotton for about a year, I would never use cotton again. Love the stuff.

The 500 ft box, it's really cheap too.
 

Jimi D

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I keep seeing people mention Nichrome too, but like the Rayon I haven't done much research into it and was under the impression it was mainly intended for Temp Control (I could be confused with another wire). I'll look into swapping to Nichrome when I look at moving into Rayon.

Thanks for your continued help.
Pure nickel is for TC. Nichrome 60 and 80 were the first used in vaping. Then Genesis atties introduced. Kanthal became popular because it was easier to work with on a stainless steel wick. The trend just stuck as cotton wicks became popular. Last year I went back to Nichrome with cotton and never looked back.
 

Ryedan

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I tried cutting the wicks a little shorter like you suggested and the flavor seems to be slightly better, but more worth mentioning, it seems more consistent. Beforehand I was actually having to drip in through the top to maintain flavor throughout the lifetime of the wick. It's still not perfect, but it seems to be headed in the right direction. Right now I'm using enough wick such that there's a little bit of resistance, I'll try playing with the amount some more. I also switched to a darker juice I haven't vaped in a while just to eliminate vaper's tongue (I had been vaping the previous juice for months straight).

Try adjusting the wicking Selver. Sometimes a bit more cotton in the wick is actually better for juice flow, sometimes less. I guess it all depends on how much we put in there in the first place. If you put too much in you'll start getting a funky taste at first until they are broken in. Way too much and you'll choke off juice flow.

You pointed out the leg of my wire possibly running dry. Because that leg goes high, do you have any suggestions on how to keep the wick in contact? or should I just try to bend the wick such that it presses against it? Also I wanted to ask you if I should go spaced. I noticed after I got everything built that your build was spaced, but I figured I should test what I had before I tried to go spaced, especially since I just bought a Coil Master. I assume with the amount of wick it looks like you're using you're using all four air holes open?

I try to bend the wire end on top so it's down and it's easier to maintain contact with the wick as it leaves the coil. Have a look at the first 2 pics in post 25. I used a needle nose pliers to make those bends. If I feel I have an issue I can't solve with bending the wire I have sometimes separated a small tuft of cotton from a wick tail, laid it over that part of the wire and back down towards the deck. Whatever works :)

Lately I've been using spaced coils, I feel I get a bit more flavor from them, but I wouldn't worry about it. I really don't think this will affect you much, though it is something you can experiment with if you feel like it. If you want to, when a coil is hot (but not when the mod is on) it's really easy to pull the loops apart with a dental pick and it's also pretty easy to push them back together again with tweezers when they're hot, so you can actually go back and forth. Just be gentle and have patience if you try that or the coils can end up pretty messed up.

I always have all the air holes open. Tried it at the beginning with two, but didn't like it as much. Here's an interesting thing though ... when my tank is screwed all the way on the base none of the 4 air holes line up with the coils. If I put a lot of wick in the air chamber I really notice the air flow reduced because the holes become restricted. That made me try unscrewing the tank slightly, so there were 2 air holes lined up with the coils. I can look through the air holes to see where I'm at or just take a drag from the tank while I turn it. That direct air on the coils changes the vape in all cases, but a lot more when there's a lot of wick in there.

On the Rayon, I've heard people mention that too, but I have no experience with Rayon and haven't done any research into it.

Ya, some people love it and some hate it. It does wick different, faster, so it's a variable that's nice to learn and have in your vape tool box. I thought you might have some and have used it before, or I wouldn't have gone there. I have the feeling Rayon would help if you want higher heat flux from this tank, but IMO you have other variables to explore already and I wouldn't add this one to the game yet.
 

marco67

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
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The nature of the Screw.
Roll a coil, full or half wrap.
One leg at top of coil, one leg at bottom.
With grub/ holes you end up with that bulbous 'odd' loop on one side.
I wick on top, than draw back through the loop.
Ryedan post/selvan build; loop to the right of the arrow above the wire than back through the loop toward juice holes.

Used to do this with silica/ the 'knot', back in the day..
 

Selver

Member For 4 Years
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I've been playing with wicking for the past week. Recently tried a different flavor, one with a little lighter notes, and wasnt getting decent performance. Tried opening up the airflow and putting it up to 40w. Seemed to help a little.

Two of the holes look right across the coils, while two look at the posts when the tank is fully screwed in, so I tried unscrewing it just a little until all four holes were looking at the wicks. This worked great for a while, but the vapor had decreased and eventually the tank flooded. It didnt leak out of the air holes, just flooded. Im guessing I unscrewed it too far and weakened the connection to the point that the coils werent getting enough power?

This tank sure is making me work for it.
 

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