Still confused!!! Are my setup's safe?

[SweetVapinSue]

I've been vaping off and on for 10 years now. Off for the last four years, because atomizers either leaked constantly or just didn't work...
Boy, was I surprised when I visited a local vape shop a couple of months ago. It's a whole new vape world.

Current setups I am using:
Nautilus Mini with the itazte CLK 1280 VV.
Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, Atlantis 2, KangerTech Mini & Plus - all used with eleaf 50W iSticks and set the wattage/volts within the range printed on the coils.
Herakles Sense with SMOK Pro M80 plus ... this is the one I'm afraid of.... The tank gets hot fairly quickly with the 0.2 Ohm coil set at 40-50W. Vape shop videos I've seen say the sweet spot is 64W. I'm afraid to push it.

Am I safe to set the wattage on the IStick or M80 based on the range printed on the coils?
I was up until 3am, again this weekend, trying to understand what is safe . I don't know if these tanks are considered Hybrids or if I have regulated or un-regulated mods or if I need to use the eGo adapters that come with the iStick and M80 Plus.
I keep reading and getting more confused. As long as I can purchase coils, I'm not interested in re-building them, at this time. I'm not worried about huge clouds, I just want satisfying vapor and flavor.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!!!

 

[zaroba]

If you can adjust the voltage or wattage, you have a regulated mod.

The Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, Atlantis 2, KangerTech Mini & Plus, are all standard 510 connection tanks that will fit on any device with a *non-hybrid* 510 connector, such as the istick line of mods. But, these tanks cannot be used on any device with a hybrid connection as they will cause a short. I'm not familiar with hybrid technology and what it's available in, so I'll let somebody else talk more about that.


As for heat with a low ohm coil, that is normal. Low ohns normally means a larger amount of metal being heated up due to thicker wires being used. More hot metal = more heat radiating to the surrounding metal.

Using a 0.12 ohm build in a Mutation X RDA @ 75-100 watts, my RDA will get hot to the touch after just 1 few second hit. Hot enough to burn after a few hits. Chain vaping will cause my sigelei 150 to get hot to the touch in less time then it takes to chain vape the cotton dry, simply from the heat of the RDA moving down into my mod.

 

[Ron01]

your istick and m80 are both regulated, and non hybrid. you will only need your ego adapter to fit an ego tank on it... but all of yours are 510.

you should be totally safe, your tank getting hot is something I've not experienced, but I don't have a Heracles. as long as your mod isn't getting hot, and isn't reading a short or some other odd thing, and your vape tastes good, you should be good. when you start to push the wattage too high you'll taste it WAY before you need to worry about it.

I'm still pretty new to this... but that's my understanding of everything.

-Ron

 

[Ron01]

oh to clarify hybrid. a hybrid is a mechanical mod where the battery makes direct contact with the atomizer. there is basically just a hole that the positive pin protrudes into. because of this in a hybrid the positive pin MUST protrude past the threads on the connection or it will short. and the tanks are no good for a hybrid for the same reason

-Ron

 

[SweetVapinSue]

Thank You ALL for your replies!!!! I was starting to 'freak out', just a little bit, when I read on one of the vendor sites that called the Kangertech tank a hybrid and I associated that with a red flag from prior readings, but couldn't remember what the 'hybrid' danger was.
Anyway, I feel much better and will quit worrying about what I have. I am very happy with the isticks, and I love the Kanger tank.
I'm playing around with e-juice recipe's and wanted multiple tanks to vape different flavors. So, I'm content.... for now....
Thanks again!

 

[SweetVapinSue]

your istick and m80 are both regulated, and non hybrid. you will only need your ego adapter to fit an ego tank on it... but all of yours are 510.

you should be totally safe, your tank getting hot is something I've not experienced, but I don't have a Heracles. as long as your mod isn't getting hot, and isn't reading a short or some other odd thing, and your vape tastes good, you should be good. when you start to push the wattage too high you'll taste it WAY before you need to worry about it.

I'm still pretty new to this... but that's my understanding of everything.

-Ron

Thanks! The mod doesn't get hot, just the tank. I've played around with the temp control on the M80 and it seems to help, but, then again, I may not be setting it correctly. It took me forever to figure out how to unlock it and what caused it to lock ... 'ME' clicking it five times when it was already on.

 

[SweetVapinSue]

If you can adjust the voltage or wattage, you have a regulated mod.

The Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, Atlantis 2, KangerTech Mini & Plus, are all standard 510 connection tanks that will fit on any device with a *non-hybrid* 510 connector, such as the istick line of mods. But, these tanks cannot be used on any device with a hybrid connection as they will cause a short. I'm not familiar with hybrid technology and what it's available in, so I'll let somebody else talk more about that.


As for heat with a low ohm coil, that is normal. Low ohns normally means a larger amount of metal being heated up due to thicker wires being used. More hot metal = more heat radiating to the surrounding metal.

Using a 0.12 ohm build in a Mutation X RDA @ 75-100 watts, my RDA will get hot to the touch after just 1 few second hit. Hot enough to burn after a few hits. Chain vaping will cause my sigelei 150 to get hot to the touch in less time then it takes to chain vape the cotton dry, simply from the heat of the RDA moving down into my mod.

Thank You for clearing that up. I was worried about it getting hot. The only coils I've seen for the Herakles Sense tank are 0.2 (30-75W) & 0.6 (50 -100W). A little more Watts than I am currently comfortable with. I've heard good reviews on the sigelei 150. Maybe I'll upgrade after I learn to walk & run. Still taking baby steps.

 

[Ron01]

Thanks! The mod doesn't get hot, just the tank. I've played around with the temp control on the M80 and it seems to help, but, then again, I may not be setting it correctly. It took me forever to figure out how to unlock it and what caused it to lock ... 'ME' clicking it five times when it was already on.

imho the temp control on the m80 is useless. I love mine as a normal regulated mod, but it's the least effective temp control mod I've used.

my advice for a tank is just to play with the wattage until you get the vape you like best, and keep it there. for me my kanger subtank was about 26 watts.

also don't be scared of building a coil for a dripper. it can be as simple or complicated as you're comfortable with, and [imho] the best flavor tank still has nothing on the flavor from a rda.

happy vaping man. be cautious of safety... but not too scared to play a little.

-Ron

 

[DickyT]

vendor sites that called the Kangertech tank a hybrid and I associated that with a red flag from prior readings, but couldn't remember what the 'hybrid' danger was.

They would call the Kanger a hybrid because it has option for the OCC coils or the rba head where you can build your own coils for it. Calling a hybrid is wrong IMO since hybrid already has a place in vaping, which is the mech mods without firing pins. The center post from the atomizer makes direct contact with the top of the battery.

What makes tanks and hybrid mods dangerous is the floating center pin most tanks have. If that pin which is positive does not extend past the end of the 510 connector which is negative, when you screw it onto the hybrid mod both the 510 and the center pin touch the battery terminal creating a short. Turning the mod into a pipe bomb. Hybrid mechs are fine if the atomizer being screwed on has a fixed center pin that extends past the end of the 510 threads.

Also .2 is pretty low ohm. the lower the ohms the hotter the device will tend to run. The vape will be hotter too the lower you go.

 

[SweetVapinSue]

They would call the Kanger a hybrid because it has option for the OCC coils or the rba head where you can build your own coils for it. Calling a hybrid is wrong IMO since hybrid already has a place in vaping, which is the mech mods without firing pins. The center post from the atomizer makes direct contact with the top of the battery.

What makes tanks and hybrid mods dangerous is the floating center pin most tanks have. If that pin which is positive does not extend past the end of the 510 connector which is negative, when you screw it onto the hybrid mod both the 510 and the center pin touch the battery terminal creating a short. Turning the mod into a pipe bomb. Hybrid mechs are fine if the atomizer being screwed on has a fixed center pin that extends past the end of the 510 threads.

Also .2 is pretty low ohm. the lower the ohms the hotter the device will tend to run. The vape will be hotter too the lower you go.

Thanks for your reply! You're explanation helps. There are so many choices now, it's confusing at times. I'm just using the iSticks or the M80 with these tanks I have. Glad to know I'm safe with those. The vape shop I went to for my first setup, this time around, was cautious in what he suggested to start out with. The second time, he sold me the Herakles tank, but it only comes with 0.2 or 0.6 coils. Then.. I found everything so much cheaper online, and tried to choose safely. The whole vaping experience is 100 times better compared to what was available 5 years ago. Unbelievable! I'm hooked now.

 

[SweetVapinSue]

imho the temp control on the m80 is useless. I love mine as a normal regulated mod, but it's the least effective temp control mod I've used.

my advice for a tank is just to play with the wattage until you get the vape you like best, and keep it there. for me my kanger subtank was about 26 watts.

also don't be scared of building a coil for a dripper. it can be as simple or complicated as you're comfortable with, and [imho] the best flavor tank still has nothing on the flavor from a rda.

happy vaping man. be cautious of safety... but not too scared to play a little.

-Ron

Haven't made it to the dripper level yet, but I just learned how to use the rba that came with the Kanger tank and how to re-wick it! I've been looking at that little thing for a while now and finally got my courage up to just try it. So excited!!! No dry hits. I'm saving my used Kanger OCC coils and will try to re-wick them too. Next level....coil building....

 

[UncleRJ]

Just one small thought.

It's your gear, You bought an paid for it yourself.

The wattage ratings of the coils is kind of arbitrary kind of like the best sale date on a pack of hamburger at your local marked.

Fiddle with the stuff.

If the wattage that makes your liquid taste its best and it is over or under what the recommendation is, just go for it.

Sometimes depending on the device, the coil will go or the wick will burn if you go over it.

But it is still your gear, and if you waste one coil, just go from there and don't do the same with the next attempt.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Start Low and work your way up to what works best for you. Don't pay attention to wattage ranges, you preferred taste may very likely be outside those recommendation or somewhere in between. It's all about the liquid and what tastes good to you

 

[greengold55]

I really like the purple Efests and the sony vct4 for a sub ohm build, how are the vct5's?

 

[Gopherfan]

I also have the 50w Eleaf. I have a kanger tank on it. I also go with the wattage recommended on the coil. I've had good luck with running it that way. If I go much higher than 30 watts I burn cotton.

 

[ej1024]

I've been vaping off and on for 10 years now. Off for the last four years, because atomizers either leaked constantly or just didn't work...
Boy, was I surprised when I visited a local vape shop a couple of months ago. It's a whole new vape world.

Current setups I am using:
Nautilus Mini with the itazte CLK 1280 VV.
Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, Atlantis 2, KangerTech Mini & Plus - all used with eleaf 50W iSticks and set the wattage/volts within the range printed on the coils.
Herakles Sense with SMOK Pro M80 plus ... this is the one I'm afraid of.... The tank gets hot fairly quickly with the 0.2 Ohm coil set at 40-50W. Vape shop videos I've seen say the sweet spot is 64W. I'm afraid to push it.

Am I safe to set the wattage on the IStick or M80 based on the range printed on the coils?
I was up until 3am, again this weekend, trying to understand what is safe . I don't know if these tanks are considered Hybrids or if I have regulated or un-regulated mods or if I need to use the eGo adapters that come with the iStick and M80 Plus.
I keep reading and getting more confused. As long as I can purchase coils, I'm not interested in re-building them, at this time. I'm not worried about huge clouds, I just want satisfying vapor and flavor.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!!!

Dripping is the way to go, if u want satisfying vape


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[trlrtrash13]

You're good with what you have. As for the tank getting hot, I run my Arctic tank at 100 watts and it gets so hot I have to use an insulator for the drip tip to keep it comfortable. It's when your mod or battery gets hot that you have something to worry about.

They would call the Kanger a hybrid because it has option for the OCC coils or the rba head where you can build your own coils for it. Calling a hybrid is wrong IMO since hybrid already has a place in vaping, which is the mech mods without firing pins. The center post from the atomizer makes direct contact with the top of the battery.

Even that is the new generation hybrid. Hybrid used to be the mods with the atomizer built onto the end of them, like the iHybrid or the Valkyrie. It's getting tough to keep up anymore. lol

 

[Gopherfan]

Yeah. I love dripping. I have a couple rda's I love my mutation x v4. It's small size chucks major clouds. Great airflow

 

[martinelias]

My understanding of a hybrid are a married atty and mod that lock perfectly to the cell. Usually they work exclusively with its respective atty.
These other direct to cell mods that allow you to choose the atty to work with are dangerous if user isnt aware of what he is doing or naturally if human error occurs resulting in unwanted reaction like thermal runway from a hard short. Most of the accidents we see in vaping arent even from over loading the cells but from these hard shorts caused by pins not sticking out far enough, isolating contacts.
Really the benefit from these mods are not worth the risk, the atty itself also creates load drop so youd better benefit from using better conductive contacts like gold and silver than actually using these dangerous devices. Thats just my opinion.

 

[SweetVapinSue]

Yeah. I love dripping. I have a couple rda's I love my mutation x v4. It's small size chucks major clouds. Great airflow

I've been wanting to try a dripper. I've looked online, but there are So many choices.... Can I use a dripper with the istick?
Would it work better for trying out different flavors? I mix up a small test batches of e juice and would like to just drop a few drops and taste...
I just bought a Lemo2, not sure what it really is, just a top fill tank with an rba. It's easy to wick - haven't tried to build a new coil for it. I don't like that it ALWAYS starts off with a loud POP. So if I haven't used it in a few minutes, I'll hold it away from my face on the first button push. Is this normal?
I like that the kangertech rba is easy to wick, built my first coil but spent hours trying to fit it under those tiny screws. I don't understand how this is fun... well, not yet. Love that I can change the cotton and change flavors easily. With that tank, I couldn't tell much difference in taste using that rba vs. the coil. Plus, now I can't find horizontal coils anymore, which were easy to change the cotton. So, I'm searching again for something new, but safe for me.
Sorry for the rambling.
I'll check out the mutation x v4. Thanks for the input and recommendation. It's nice to hear what other members are satisfied with.

 

[SweetVapinSue]

Dripping is the way to go, if u want satisfying vape


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm ready to try it! Thanks!!!

 

[SweetVapinSue]

I also have the 50w Eleaf. I have a kanger tank on it. I also go with the wattage recommended on the coil. I've had good luck with running it that way. If I go much higher than 30 watts I burn cotton.

I've had good luck keeping it from 15 - 22 watts, don't think I've tried much higher. I like mine, just disappointed that I can't find any horizontal coils anymore. They were so easy to pull the cotton out of the holes and put new in. I haven't had any leaking problems with the Kangertech Plus or Mini, like some have reported.

I also have the 50w Eleaf. I have a kanger tank on it. I also go with the wattage recommended on the coil. I've had good luck with running it that way. If I go much higher than 30 watts I burn cotton.

 

[SweetVapinSue]

You're good with what you have. As for the tank getting hot, I run my Arctic tank at 100 watts and it gets so hot I have to use an insulator for the drip tip to keep it comfortable. It's when your mod or battery gets hot that you have something to worry about.


Even that is the new generation hybrid. Hybrid used to be the mods with the atomizer built onto the end of them, like the iHybrid or the Valkyrie. It's getting tough to keep up anymore. lol

Thanks! I'll remember to watch out for a hot battery. So far, just the tank gets hot. I've heard I can use the Atlantis2 coils on the Herakles, which are in a lower wattage range. I think the Hearkles drip tips are insulated too but I put them away in a box for now and am not positive.