Sterted building again after 5 years. Need help.

[zafirovp]

Hello,

I quit vaping for the last 5 years. As expected I need little help because of all this new information/products on the market.

My setup for now is Evic VTwo mini with Zephyrus 2 tank and 1.8 Ohm (10-13W) tank. I vape 0.6 to 0.9 nicotine juice.

I really want to try the RBA on the Zephyrus 2. With all those new coil types, wicks and so on I cant really decide what to try.

Can you suggest basic first build configuration. For example what wire to use, how thick, what resistance, single or double coil, what cotton and so on. Im searching for a pretty simple build in order to start from somewhere.

Thank you.






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[HondaDavidson]

What do you want that is different from the vape you get with the 1.8ohm build?

I would start by trying
To duplicate the build you like. Maybe even via disecting of coilhead or 2. What wire and build did the factory use? Ect... steam-engine.org can help with the disecting.

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[zafirovp]

Well, its not that im searching for something different than 1.8 ohm coil. I just want to start building my own but dont know from where to start.


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[HondaDavidson]

Well, its not that im searching for something different than 1.8 ohm coil. I just want to start building my own but dont know from where to start.


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I started out buy rebuilding factory coil heads. I took apart the head made some measurements and plugged the numbers into steam-engine.org changing this I could not measure till I could get the ohms to match the measurements.

Determine the coils id. Count the wraps. Know the ohm. Plug those into almost any coil calculator you can figure out gauge and in most cases material. If you don't know. When I started all coils were either kanthal or nichrome. And the factories didn't bother to tell you which. Until Temp Protected devices started coming out.

At 1.8 ohm I'd get some 29 awg kanthal or nichrome. And some 32 for doing twisted wire builds. Then I would just start making coils. Small screw driver and finger nail clippers and some cotton is the rest of what you need. I would also suggest a good volt ohm meter and a 510 meter. But you can get by with just a regulated mods meter.

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[MacTechVpr]

Hello,

I quit vaping for the last 5 years. As expected I need little help because of all this new information/products on the market.

My setup for now is Evic VTwo mini with Zephyrus 2 tank and 1.8 Ohm (10-13W) tank. I vape 0.6 to 0.9 nicotine juice.

I really want to try the RBA on the Zephyrus 2. With all those new coil types, wicks and so on I cant really decide what to try.

Can you suggest basic first build configuration. For example what wire to use, how thick, what resistance, single or double coil, what cotton and so on. Im searching for a pretty simple build in order to start from somewhere.

Thank you.

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@zafirovp, it's far more important for you to learn how to get there than for me to tell you what to build. Wind this great twist with a few simple tools using a foolproof technique and you'll be able to build anything. What's more, the process will reveal why!



A pin vise, 7/64" drill bit some 26 gauge and the best super computer on the block, the one you have on your shoulders, and you'll be winding to predictable it-just-works precision inside 30 seconds. No other method will bring you the reliable consistency that strain can impart to wire. None. You're workin' and using the limits of physics to determine geometry. Then you can pick up on the install approaches to retain that great wind in your install like this serial tensioned contact…



These winds run cooler (more effective surface contact and vaporization). So you run thicker wire to take advantage of that getting denser vapor and output or more volume if that's where you're goin'. I'd start you at about .8-.9Ω and you'd likely be running cooler than you're now seeing with thin wire 1/8Ω.

Look me up here or on that other forum by search using my handle and your question terms. Or just PM me. Glad to help whenever I can.

Best of luck zaf.

p.s. Honda's suggestion is right on learning Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators from the jump. Using strain to achieve tension winds gets you the very precise resistance (temperature) targets you will work out on the above. The advantage of tensioned closed cols is that they are perfectly repeatable.

 

[zafirovp]

Just ordered 28g kanthal and cotton. I suppose the resistance on both coils must be exactly the same (on dual coil build). Can I use my Evic vtwo mini to measure the resistance instead of multimeter?

Thank you so much for your replies.


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[MacTechVpr]

Just ordered 28g kanthal and cotton. I suppose the resistance on both coils must be exactly the same (on dual coil build). Can I use my Evic vtwo mini to measure the resistance instead of multimeter?

Thank you so much for your replies.


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Surprised no one got back with you. In the zeph a pair of 1.8's will get you down to a warm, wet .9Ω and yes, the same number of turns and resistance. Please consider trying tension winding. You will be delighted.

Good luck.

 

[zafirovp]

Well this is that. 0.5 ohms, 9 wraps.

Please criticize if something is wrong.


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[MacTechVpr]

Ha-ha, not bad for an old timey saf.

Can see you weren't successful on this try to get to consistent adhesion; that is, they point they get "sticky" or as close as nature permits. If you don't have a pin vise get one, it will help. If you're using a a screw driver or such make sure the wire is well fixed. Also your left side pos and right side neg are out-of-round or spread from the wind diameter. This may give you a lot of trouble. I'll get back to that later.

A coiler will not produce a tensioned micro coil…forming is not using strain at all. After you push the wind together you will find you slightly increased the internal diameter. Or, that the wire will spring back out. It's hard to predict the resulting resistance if either happens. One thing certain, without full contact you won't see uniform oxidation. This is what we're trying to get to…

From this… To this…

The oxidation variation in in this first try will produce different turn-to-turn temps. It will heat unevenly and make difficult to match output of the pair. If the temp is close for the pair they may balance in output somewhat with use. But they won't give off as much heat to the coil as if oxidation was more uniform. A pin vise will really help quite a bit to strain the wires evenly.

Don't know why you counter-wound these coils (one left-hand, one right). There's no advantage I can see to it. The two far end turns appear to be off-diameter. This can happen if the tension is slack as you finish the wind. You should always try with a light needle-nose plier or forceps to pull the end leads to match the tension and diameters of all end turns. If you push an end turn off-center to the wind, remove and re-strain it. Try not to put more tension on than was used for the wind…it may send the coil hot to that side.

All-in-all not a bad attempt saf. I can see you've done a few coils. And I also cross post on the 4 connections as it seems you did. Let us know how it vapes after a few tanks.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Well this is that. 0.5 ohms, 9 wraps.

Please criticize if something is wrong.


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Caught the 2nd pic on Post your build…and noted some of the remarks. You have a winner!

Sad though so many peeps don't know how you oxidized the coil as much as you did. Don't realize that Kanthal was created a century ago to do this. And for my part that they haven't learned this effective technique to optimize the surface of closed contact winds.

Hang in there saf and show 'em how it's done.

Good luck.

p.s. Still trying to understand why you counter-wound the coils now that I've seen your overhead. I wind right-hand (clockwise) rotation and use the leads exiting top cross-posted as positive leads in T-post atomizers like yours.

 

[zafirovp]

First off all, thank you for all replies and information. You are very helpful and I appreciate it.

Im currently doing all my coils by hand (screwdriver). When I get the hang of it I will buy Kuro coiler for sure. Just want to learn the old school method first.

This "build" is no different than the original OCC head that came with my Zephyrus. Everything is the same, except that my build is leaking from the air channels(not enough cotton obviously)

One of the coils is counter-wound by accident. Im just experimenting with different techniques. My onle concern is the coil snapping while inhaling.

I will practice the next few days trying to fix the issues from this post and get back to you with pictures.


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[MacTechVpr]

No worries. Definitely try a coiler but don't do so at the expense of not getting a pin vise. A coiler cannot strain wire. You simply cannot physically form a wire as stable as with strain. Can't be done. And if you oxidize in an eccentric form it will lock in that form…and accordingly, that level of performance. But you won't know the diff until you try both. And I urge folks to do that.

You can with a micro screwdriver. Just make sure you fix the wire on the handle securely with elec tape or whatever. Tighten the first turn flat against the face of the handle then begin applying tension. As soon as you build a "sticky" wind you will see the difference that strain provides in closing all or virtually all impairments in the wind surface. Coilers will get them close but tend to back off as I said. They will not oxidize uniformly. Even with strain variations in the surface may impede it. So forming (bending) wire as coilers do fall far short of this. The difference is one of eventually, electrical efficiency. And particularly if you are a low to moderate power vaper may mean all the difference in the world in getting the kind of flavor you see at higher power levels.

Try it and you will make it a permanent part of your method.

Good luck.

 

[Alter]

Welcome back to the vape scene. Lots have changed in well the 4 years I've been vaping and rebuilding so changes for you could be overwhelming but it look to me like you've got it all under control.
The only thing I can forsee you changing is looking into cellucotton/rayon as a wicking material. It kicks the shit out of cotton. You don't wick rayon like cotton so do a bit of research and then maybe give it a try. I never looked back to cotton after giving rayon a go 2 years ago.

 

[mach1ne]

nice work @MacTechVpr helpful af

 

[zafirovp]

And second one...

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[zafirovp]

And second one...

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[MacTechVpr]

Dude…congrats. Very good symmetry.

Two points. First, locate mid-point of airflow below coil center-line for flavor (density), to the high side for more dispersion after vaporization, i.e. drier more diffuse vapor. Outboard to force more vaporization by bringing air supply closer to coil (velocity). Closer to posts for more power (less resistance). Second: Wicking regulates flow and juice volume. The more wick or media, the more juice density. Thinner, short wicks for more diffuse, rapid, vape. More media for vapor density. The corollary, coil diameter or gauge should match the flow provided by media. Up the media density and you should consider more surface area and/or power.

Good luck!

p.s. Start pulse oxidation with just enough power to begin to light coil. Increase gradually. No worries if this takes quite a few pulses to get the wind uniform. It's a matter of associating the process of oxidation to voltage required on your particular device combination. If you use too much power you will quickly blast past the starting pale start of passivation. By then you may have already locked in differing levels of oxidation on turns. Easier to learn on a single coil.