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Squonkers are Bonkers

Train

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
A lot of people have complained that the boss at Ginger vapes has been downright nasty, and failed in customer service issues.

The above mentioned Hugo "Squeezer" is a copy of the Boxer, that many say is just as good as the original, for a lot less $.
Understand if you don't want a copy (can't really call it a CLONE, because it does have it's own NAME)...

Link is $30 from US vendor. It's like $24 from china...


@JuicyLucy , you seem to be the Queen Squonking Guru on this forum. What are your thoughts on the authentic Boxer Mod Classic BF Squonk 2x700 by Ginger Vapers?
Never had one - and am a Ginger Vapes boycotter, lol

However, with that said, is probably a pretty good mod in and of itself
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
A lot of people have complained that the boss at Ginger vapes has been downright nasty, and failed in customer service issues.

The above mentioned Hugo "Squeezer" is a copy of the Boxer, that many say is just as good as the original, for a lot less $.
Understand if you don't want a copy (can't really call it a CLONE, because it does have it's own NAME)...

Link is $30 from US vendor. It's like $24 from china...
I like the squeezer. My first squonk was a boxer clone. It served the purpose. The squeezer is a lot more nice for sure

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Okay, but your response doesn't apply to my previous statement.

My point is that it doesnt make sense for them to make the board of 400 watts when Evolv has a track record of erring on the side of caution.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Alright let's just say I think your wrong on that.I don't find it cautionary to manufacture chips that don't have reverse polarity protection.They did that for many years and nobody said shit.People just kept buying their unsafe products.Yeah real caution used there.
"Here buy our mod.You might lose a couple fingers from using it but it's cool looking."
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Alright let's just say I think your wrong on that.I don't find it cautionary to manufacture chips that don't have reverse polarity protection.They did that for many years and nobody said shit.People just kept buying their unsafe products.Yeah real caution used there.
"Here buy our mod.You might lose a couple fingers from using it but it's cool looking."
You didn't say that in your response. All you said was that the Kick 2 was unnecessary and didn't work as well as the original. Thanks for clarifying.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ah, hell no! The Coral 1 is absolute garbage. I'm a forgiving soul, and there aren't any redeeming qualities there. I'm talking the Coral 2 on the Pico 2.
Yeah the Coral 2 is actually pretty good.

Here hold my beer...To further clarify.
The original Coral is worse than garbage.
The Coral 2 is a pretty decent little atomizer.It ain't gonna knock your boots off or blow your hair back.But it is at least vape worthy.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It seemed to me to be common knowledge to AVOID the Coral RDA that came with original Pico Squeeze.

I've seen that said near infinite times here on VU and on /ecr, and that nearly ANY other RDA would be better than that Coral.

Maybe you had not seen those posts here on VU and elsewhere before purchasing your Pico Squeeze v1 kit?
Read my most current post.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Apologies.

My bad.

Please carry on...
No worries dude.Sometimes I fall a bit behind here.So I wind up playing (Ketchup)
If something I say does not make sense feel free to PM me.
That way I can just get you even more lost and mug you for all those cool mods.Preferably in the (Wailing Caverns)
Some would call me a scoundrel.They'd be wrong.I'm just a rogue.

GRTAETAEUITO1391566934493.jpg
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
No worries dude.Sometimes I fall a bit behind here.So I wind up playing (Ketchup)
If something I say does not make sense feel free to PM me.
That way I can just get you even more lost and mug you for all those cool mods.Preferably in the (Wailing Caverns)
Some would call me a scoundrel.They'd be wrong.I'm just a rogue.

GRTAETAEUITO1391566934493.jpg
Thanks for the reply. It's all good to me.:)

BTW- I dont know if any of my mods are 'cool', since I aim for the least expensive, utilitarian and functional devices, and the only higher-end vape gear I own are an authentic Velocity and an authentic Goon v1 (each cost me a pretty penny at the time when purchased from a local B&M).

Everything else is cheap, but functional (on purpose)
So as a mugging target, I am likely to disappoint LOL. Vape on brother! :stars:

As far as Wailing Caverns (not sure what realm that is from), but that draws up memories of playing Zork and Ultima, and some MUD's and MMORPG's that were also all text-based and done via ssh, telnet or IRC connection.

Back then nobody had to worry about frame-rates, but instead it was more about baud-rates.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Why should you apologize to someone who is being a jerk?

Rhetorical question, lol

The ignore feature really is a great thing :)

Thanks for pointing that out.

Maybe by trying to be nice to everyone, instead I end up being a glutton for punishment...
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I am very sad today. I need some help/advice.

Apologies for the wall of text, but just trying to give as much detail as possible....

It seems like my HCigar VT Inbox v3 DNA75 is starting to flake out.

Either that, or 6 different LG HG2s of varying ages, are all degraded.

Yesterday I rebuilt my Goon v1 with 6 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 4mm ID, installed, wicked, and all was well (or so I thought).

Coil reads @ 0.38 ohms (as expected per Steam Engine and also confirmed on my Ohm Reader). After a few mins vaping this at 30w on the Inbox, the battery indicator starts flashing.

Never seen that before, usually it says 'weak battery' when the cell cannot provide enough power. Remember, this is a DNA75 chip inside.

So I pull the battery (LG HG2) and put it on the charger (Efest LUCv6) and it reads 3.67v.

So, puzzled I try another freshly charged LG HG2, that was resting in my stand (not in the charger) and put that in the Inbox. Same thing with the flashing battery indicator. When removed and placed on charger, voltage is 4.05v.

Ok. So I swap the Goon for the Wasp Nano (4 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 3.5mm ID, 0.29 Ohms).

Same problem on the Inbox with the flashing battery indicator.

So I lower the power down to 25w. Same problem.

Change it into TC mode with Djaquith's DNA SS316L v7 profile, set the mod for 420F and 35w. 3-4 puffs all is fine just like in wattage mode. Then, same problem with flashing battery indicator.

So, after some google-fu, found some info about changing the battery cutoff in Escribe down to 2.5v (default setting was 2.8v). Changed it. Now after first firing, battery thing is flashing again.

Also verified that the cell-type parameter was set for "18650 Litium-Ion" and not "Lithium-Polymer Pack". All these things were verified the first few times I ran Escribe.

So I set it back to 2.8v and open the Diagnostics Monitor in Escribe and am looking at everything while firing it, and it shows room temp is 109 F (not accurate, digital thermometer/hygrometer at my desk shows 80 F) and board temp is 190 F. Seem kind of high to me.

The mod and battery were both hotter than I've ever felt since I started vaping, moreso even than when I use a hair dryer to shrink a battery wrap...

I removed the battery, and let everything cool off.

Also to note, I never got the message from the DNA chip 'Too Hot' which I had seen a few times on my Lost Vape Drone.

After the mod cooled off, I tried 4 other NEWER LG HG2 cells, and still got the flashing battery icon.

So I removed the Wasp Nano, and put on my Kanger TopTank Mini which has a 1.07 Ohm 27g Kanthal build on the Inbox and set it for wattage mode at my normal 18w.

Thinking if something was fubar with the settings of the voltage cutoff, or the Escribe settings for 'maximium input amp draw' which is set to 32a. I had not changed this setting.

I figured higher resistance and lower watts should at least work since it is drawing less current from the battery.

But, nope. Fate was not smiling. Still got the flashing battery icon even with a 1.07 Ohm build @ 18w.

I've had the Inbox since Feburary, and bought it used but 'like new' here on VU (with the Wasp Nano) and it worked fine up to this point. Never been dropped, never left the house and it sits on my desk since day one.

I tried to open it via the 4x 1mm hex screws on the case, but one of them was apparently stripped and I could not get it out.

I wanted to see if maybe there was liquid inside or something came loose, but cannot get it open.

So now it sits unused, in a box on the side of my desk.

If I wanted to salvage the DNA75 board and some of the other parts, I will likely have to cut the case apart with a dremel, which could all be for nothing if something is fried with the DNA board now.

Any ideas what to do next?

Any ideas what the root cause of the problem could be?

Should I buy some brand new high-drain cells like Sony VTC5a's and see if they too experience the same problems in the Inbox?

Should I do a 'Factory Reset' in Escribe? (this will reset the default DNA75 firmware settings and purge all of the custom screens installed by HCigar, and I'm not sure how to back them up).

Please help me Obi-Wan Bonkers, you are my only hope...
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I am very sad today. I need some help/advice.

Apologies for the wall of text, but just trying to give as much detail as possible....

It seems like my HCigar VT Inbox v3 DNA75 is starting to flake out.

Either that, or 6 different LG HG2s of varying ages, are all degraded.

Yesterday I rebuilt my Goon v1 with 6 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 4mm ID, installed, wicked, and all was well (or so I thought).

Coil reads @ 0.38 ohms (as expected per Steam Engine and also confirmed on my Ohm Reader). After a few mins vaping this at 30w on the Inbox, the battery indicator starts flashing.

Never seen that before, usually it says 'weak battery' when the cell cannot provide enough power. Remember, this is a DNA75 chip inside.

So I pull the battery (LG HG2) and put it on the charger (Efest LUCv6) and it reads 3.67v.

So, puzzled I try another freshly charged LG HG2, that was resting in my stand (not in the charger) and put that in the Inbox. Same thing with the flashing battery indicator. When removed and placed on charger, voltage is 4.05v.

Ok. So I swap the Goon for the Wasp Nano (4 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 3.5mm ID, 0.29 Ohms).

Same problem on the Inbox with the flashing battery indicator.

So I lower the power down to 25w. Same problem.

Change it into TC mode with Djaquith's DNA SS316L v7 profile, set the mod for 420F and 35w. 3-4 puffs all is fine just like in wattage mode. Then, same problem with flashing battery indicator.

So, after some google-fu, found some info about changing the battery cutoff in Escribe down to 2.5v (default setting was 2.8v). Changed it. Now after first firing, battery thing is flashing again.

Also verified that the cell-type parameter was set for "18650 Litium-Ion" and not "Lithium-Polymer Pack". All these things were verified the first few times I ran Escribe.

So I set it back to 2.8v and open the Diagnostics Monitor in Escribe and am looking at everything while firing it, and it shows room temp is 109 F (not accurate, digital thermometer/hygrometer at my desk shows 80 F) and board temp is 190 F. Seem kind of high to me.

The mod and battery were both hotter than I've ever felt since I started vaping, moreso even than when I use a hair dryer to shrink a battery wrap...

I removed the battery, and let everything cool off.

Also to note, I never got the message from the DNA chip 'Too Hot' which I had seen a few times on my Lost Vape Drone.

After the mod cooled off, I tried 4 other NEWER LG HG2 cells, and still got the flashing battery icon.

So I removed the Wasp Nano, and put on my Kanger TopTank Mini which has a 1.07 Ohm 27g Kanthal build on the Inbox and set it for wattage mode at my normal 18w.

Thinking if something was fubar with the settings of the voltage cutoff, or the Escribe settings for 'maximium input amp draw' which is set to 32a. I had not changed this setting.

I figured higher resistance and lower watts should at least work since it is drawing less current from the battery.

But, nope. Fate was not smiling. Still got the flashing battery icon even with a 1.07 Ohm build @ 18w.

I've had the Inbox since Feburary, and bought it used but 'like new' here on VU (with the Wasp Nano) and it worked fine up to this point. Never been dropped, never left the house and it sits on my desk since day one.

I tried to open it via the 4x 1mm hex screws on the case, but one of them was apparently stripped and I could not get it out.

I wanted to see if maybe there was liquid inside or something came loose, but cannot get it open.

So now it sits unused, in a box on the side of my desk.

If I wanted to salvage the DNA75 board and some of the other parts, I will likely have to cut the case apart with a dremel, which could all be for nothing if something is fried with the DNA board now.

Any ideas what to do next?

Any ideas what the root cause of the problem could be?

Should I buy some brand new high-drain cells like Sony VTC5a's and see if they too experience the same problems in the Inbox?

Should I do a 'Factory Reset' in Escribe? (this will reset the default DNA75 firmware settings and purge all of the custom screens installed by HCigar, and I'm not sure how to back them up).

Please help me Obi-Wan Bonkers, you are my only hope...
I would contact Evolv to see if you can get the board serviced. It seems like a common problem with the DNA 75 (which I HATE just for that reason) but it might be an issues with the battery contacts and such. You'll have better luck getting in touch with Evolv than Hcigar. Hope you can get it sorted.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Writw to evolve as j said.. I had dropped one of my inboxs and it would would always say check atomizer. I sent it back the same day they received it they sent it back to me fully functional that customer service is amazing

Sent from a very cloudy room
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I would contact Evolv to see if you can get the board serviced. It seems like a common problem with the DNA 75 (which I HATE just for that reason) but it might be an issues with the battery contacts and such. You'll have better luck getting in touch with Evolv than Hcigar. Hope you can get it sorted.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Writw to evolve as j said.. I had dropped one of my inboxs and it would would always say check atomizer. I sent it back the same day they received it they sent it back to me fully functional that customer service is amazing

Sent from a very cloudy room

Thanks guys. I am going to try that rather than mess with the device further. I guess at the very least that round-trip shipping costs will be cheaper than a new regulated squonker, and none of the later ones really have my interest. (I've had to fall back on the Pico Squeeze for now, and happy that at least I have that to keep squonking with :))

Also, one of the offending LG HG2s now only charges up to 4.19v and this is the first time I noticed this. Maybe this is sign of degradation of the cell's internal chemistry?

Seems like I should prepare to replace these cells. Some Sony VTC5a's will be on order. They are $6 ea @ Illumn right now.

I just have to sort out some money issues before I can move on anything, as I'm kinda broke right now. :sad:
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks guys. I am going to try that rather than mess with the device further. I guess at the very least that round-trip shipping costs will be cheaper than a new regulated squonker, and none of the later ones really have my interest. (I've had to fall back on the Pico Squeeze for now, and happy that at least I have that to keep squonking with :))

Also, one of the offending LG HG2s now only charges up to 4.19v and this is the first time I noticed this. Maybe this is sign of degradation of the cell's internal chemistry?

Seems like I should prepare to replace these cells. Some Sony VTC5a's will be on order. They are $6 ea @ Illumn right now.

I just have to sort out some money issues before I can move on anything, as I'm kinda broke right now. :sad:
You'll only pay to return..they cover return to u

Sent from a very cloudy room
 

Rossum

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
I am very sad today. I need some help/advice.

Apologies for the wall of text, but just trying to give as much detail as possible....

It seems like my HCigar VT Inbox v3 DNA75 is starting to flake out.

Either that, or 6 different LG HG2s of varying ages, are all degraded.

Yesterday I rebuilt my Goon v1 with 6 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 4mm ID, installed, wicked, and all was well (or so I thought).

Coil reads @ 0.38 ohms (as expected per Steam Engine and also confirmed on my Ohm Reader). After a few mins vaping this at 30w on the Inbox, the battery indicator starts flashing.

Never seen that before, usually it says 'weak battery' when the cell cannot provide enough power. Remember, this is a DNA75 chip inside.

So I pull the battery (LG HG2) and put it on the charger (Efest LUCv6) and it reads 3.67v.

So, puzzled I try another freshly charged LG HG2, that was resting in my stand (not in the charger) and put that in the Inbox. Same thing with the flashing battery indicator. When removed and placed on charger, voltage is 4.05v.

Ok. So I swap the Goon for the Wasp Nano (4 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 3.5mm ID, 0.29 Ohms).

Same problem on the Inbox with the flashing battery indicator.

So I lower the power down to 25w. Same problem.

Change it into TC mode with Djaquith's DNA SS316L v7 profile, set the mod for 420F and 35w. 3-4 puffs all is fine just like in wattage mode. Then, same problem with flashing battery indicator.

So, after some google-fu, found some info about changing the battery cutoff in Escribe down to 2.5v (default setting was 2.8v). Changed it. Now after first firing, battery thing is flashing again.

Also verified that the cell-type parameter was set for "18650 Litium-Ion" and not "Lithium-Polymer Pack". All these things were verified the first few times I ran Escribe.

So I set it back to 2.8v and open the Diagnostics Monitor in Escribe and am looking at everything while firing it, and it shows room temp is 109 F (not accurate, digital thermometer/hygrometer at my desk shows 80 F) and board temp is 190 F. Seem kind of high to me.

The mod and battery were both hotter than I've ever felt since I started vaping, moreso even than when I use a hair dryer to shrink a battery wrap...

I removed the battery, and let everything cool off.

Also to note, I never got the message from the DNA chip 'Too Hot' which I had seen a few times on my Lost Vape Drone.

After the mod cooled off, I tried 4 other NEWER LG HG2 cells, and still got the flashing battery icon.

So I removed the Wasp Nano, and put on my Kanger TopTank Mini which has a 1.07 Ohm 27g Kanthal build on the Inbox and set it for wattage mode at my normal 18w.

Thinking if something was fubar with the settings of the voltage cutoff, or the Escribe settings for 'maximium input amp draw' which is set to 32a. I had not changed this setting.

I figured higher resistance and lower watts should at least work since it is drawing less current from the battery.

But, nope. Fate was not smiling. Still got the flashing battery icon even with a 1.07 Ohm build @ 18w.

I've had the Inbox since Feburary, and bought it used but 'like new' here on VU (with the Wasp Nano) and it worked fine up to this point. Never been dropped, never left the house and it sits on my desk since day one.

I tried to open it via the 4x 1mm hex screws on the case, but one of them was apparently stripped and I could not get it out.

I wanted to see if maybe there was liquid inside or something came loose, but cannot get it open.

So now it sits unused, in a box on the side of my desk.

If I wanted to salvage the DNA75 board and some of the other parts, I will likely have to cut the case apart with a dremel, which could all be for nothing if something is fried with the DNA board now.

Any ideas what to do next?

Any ideas what the root cause of the problem could be?

Should I buy some brand new high-drain cells like Sony VTC5a's and see if they too experience the same problems in the Inbox?

Should I do a 'Factory Reset' in Escribe? (this will reset the default DNA75 firmware settings and purge all of the custom screens installed by HCigar, and I'm not sure how to back them up).

Please help me Obi-Wan Bonkers, you are my only hope...
I would let it cool off completely (as in overnight) and then connect escribe and do a reality check on the temperatures. If they are not within a few degrees of ambient at that point, there is a problem with the board's ability to read analog inputs correctly.

FWIW, I gave up on all that over-complicated nonsense and reverted to using mechs full-time three years ago. My mechs just work.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I would let it cool off completely (as in overnight) and then connect escribe and do a reality check on the temperatures. If they are not within a few degrees of ambient at that point, there is a problem with the board's ability to read analog inputs correctly.

FWIW, I gave up on all that over-complicated nonsense and reverted to using mechs full-time three years ago. My mechs just work.
Thanks for the reply and advice.

I was thinking maybe have a last go in Escribe, and reset it to factory defaults (once I backup the screen images), and then re-run both the Case Analyzer as well as the Battery Analyzer and see if anything changes.

Failing that, I have no other options besides either sending it to Evolv, or sending it to the Vape-Device Graveyard. I'd hate to have to trash this mod, it has worked well for me up until now.

I know these electronic mods do not last forever, but I had hoped that something with a DNA chip inside would have been more reliable than the average devices on the market.

I do have an original Pulse BF mech squonker as well, and that was the first one I bought last October, and if the 3x Pico Squeezes all died, I could fall back to that one.

It's times like these that I really appreciate the simplicity of a full mech device. No chips to go bad, and we all should be practicing good battery safety anyway, whether using a mech mod or a regulated mod.

Sadly I do not have the budget for the better ones with the full 99.9% silver contacts right now, so I have to make do with the low-end, which also 'just works', but with more voltage drop...
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Thanks guys. I am going to try that rather than mess with the device further. I guess at the very least that round-trip shipping costs will be cheaper than a new regulated squonker, and none of the later ones really have my interest. (I've had to fall back on the Pico Squeeze for now, and happy that at least I have that to keep squonking with :))

Also, one of the offending LG HG2s now only charges up to 4.19v and this is the first time I noticed this. Maybe this is sign of degradation of the cell's internal chemistry?

Seems like I should prepare to replace these cells. Some Sony VTC5a's will be on order. They are $6 ea @ Illumn right now.

I just have to sort out some money issues before I can move on anything, as I'm kinda broke right now. :sad:

Don't worry so much about batteries only charging to 4.19v ;) I have cells that after saying 4.2v rest at 4.17v which is acceptable still... its when they start really showing their age at 4.1v or less rested you should consider cycling them to flashlights.

BUT.. regardless of what I say, research it more...get other opinions...know heat is the enemy of all batteries


As for your Inbox... evolv might do the repair if you send the whole mod... I do remember them washing their hands of HCigar... BUT! if you send them the board alone, they will accept it during their 1 year warranty.
 

SteelDriver

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for the reply and advice.

I was thinking maybe have a last go in Escribe, and reset it to factory defaults (once I backup the screen images), and then re-run both the Case Analyzer as well as the Battery Analyzer and see if anything changes.

Failing that, I have no other options besides either sending it to Evolv, or sending it to the Vape-Device Graveyard. I'd hate to have to trash this mod, it has worked well for me up until now.

I know these electronic mods do not last forever, but I had hoped that something with a DNA chip inside would have been more reliable than the average devices on the market.

I do have an original Pulse BF mech squonker as well, and that was the first one I bought last October, and if the 3x Pico Squeezes all died, I could fall back to that one.

It's times like these that I really appreciate the simplicity of a full mech device. No chips to go bad, and we all should be practicing good battery safety anyway, whether using a mech mod or a regulated mod.

Sadly I do not have the budget for the better ones with the full 99.9% silver contacts right now, so I have to make do with the low-end, which also 'just works', but with more voltage drop...
Clean contacts I don't notice any difference in silver or copper. But that is my opinion. Probably start a sh#t storm but........

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 

RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Don't worry so much about batteries only charging to 4.19v ;) I have cells that after saying 4.2v rest at 4.17v which is acceptable still... its when they start really showing their age at 4.1v or less rested you should consider cycling them to flashlights.

BUT.. regardless of what I say, research it more...get other opinions...know heat is the enemy of all batteries


As for your Inbox... evolv might do the repair if you send the whole mod... I do remember them washing their hands of HCigar... BUT! if you send them the board alone, they will accept it during their 1 year warranty.
Theyll take the whole mod...just dont ship bottle or cover....

Sent from a very cloudy room
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Don't worry so much about batteries only charging to 4.19v ;) I have cells that after saying 4.2v rest at 4.17v which is acceptable still... its when they start really showing their age at 4.1v or less rested you should consider cycling them to flashlights.

BUT.. regardless of what I say, research it more...get other opinions...know heat is the enemy of all batteries


As for your Inbox... evolv might do the repair if you send the whole mod... I do remember them washing their hands of HCigar... BUT! if you send them the board alone, they will accept it during their 1 year warranty.

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep all of that in mind.

Seems I just had to wait longer since that cel actually got up to 4.20v, but took about 30 mins longer than it's sister that was purchased at the same time from the same reputable vendor.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Clean contacts I don't notice any difference in silver or copper. But that is my opinion. Probably start a sh#t storm but........

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
I forgot to mention in my write up, that I did use some 4000 grit micro-mesh to gently shine the battery contacts inside the Inbox v3 from the slight build-up that was on them. I wanted to use such a fine grit since I do not know if they are (silver or other) plated, and was worried about stripping off the plating.

Made no difference to the mod's behavior in this case, but I know that regular cleaning of contacts on a mech is party of a healthy safety & maintenance routine.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for the reply. It's all good to me.:)

BTW- I dont know if any of my mods are 'cool', since I aim for the least expensive, utilitarian and functional devices, and the only higher-end vape gear I own are an authentic Velocity and an authentic Goon v1 (each cost me a pretty penny at the time when purchased from a local B&M).

Everything else is cheap, but functional (on purpose)
So as a mugging target, I am likely to disappoint LOL. Vape on brother! :stars:

As far as Wailing Caverns (not sure what realm that is from), but that draws up memories of playing Zork and Ultima, and some MUD's and MMORPG's that were also all text-based and done via ssh, telnet or IRC connection.

Back then nobody had to worry about frame-rates, but instead it was more about baud-rates.
Oh goodness I can't remember the last time I played a Text based game.I know the last 1 I played was (DragonRealms) though.

https://www.play.net/dr/
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
...It seems like a common problem with the DNA 75 (which I HATE just for that reason) but it might be an issues with the battery contacts and such.

I've been tossing around the idea of swapping out the DNA75 board with a DNA60 because in the SXK BB, the DNA60 has been rock solid. I found someone on Shapeways that has 3D-printed panels and mounts for the DNA60 so hacking the enclosure would not be a horrible mess (I hope)...

If Evolv were to tell me to kiss off, then this could be an idea for after that.

You'll have better luck getting in touch with Evolv than Hcigar. Hope you can get it sorted.

Yeah, the HCigar web site is a total fustercluck, and none of the items in their navigation menu work for me, on 4 different browsers (Firefox, Chrome, Safari, Midori), across 4 different operating systems Linux, Win7, MacOS, iOS)...

So I had to look at the html source code of their main index.html page to find a working link for the Inbox buried in the code, and even so, the resulting page for the Inbox has minimal info, and no support documentation, not even a PDF manual to download, so contacting them is likely to increase the grey-hair count and/or be futile. I guess HCigar has given up or never intended upon post-sale support in the first place.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Why should you apologize to someone who is being a jerk?

Rhetorical question, lol

The ignore feature really is a great thing :)
If you stopped ignoring me.You would know I wasn't being a jerk.I just have a weird sense of humor sometimes.I know you don't care for my special brand of humor and I'm alright with that...Cheers!
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Oh goodness I can't remember the last time I played a Text based game.I know the last 1 I played was (DragonRealms) though.

https://www.play.net/dr/

I had not played that one. I'll have to check that out.

My first entries into graphical first-person RPG/shooter type games began with Wolfenstein and there were lots of network-multiplayer sessions late at night at the computer lab back in college, where we played DOOM, Hexen, Heretic, Quake, Unreal Tournament etc...but unless you were in the Mac lab and using a Mac, there was no sound since the PC's did not have sound cards in them except for the ones in the Music Dept. But on the Macintosh, later models like the Quadra had decent enough sound for those games...
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I am very sad today. I need some help/advice.

Apologies for the wall of text, but just trying to give as much detail as possible....

It seems like my HCigar VT Inbox v3 DNA75 is starting to flake out.

Either that, or 6 different LG HG2s of varying ages, are all degraded.

Yesterday I rebuilt my Goon v1 with 6 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 4mm ID, installed, wicked, and all was well (or so I thought).

Coil reads @ 0.38 ohms (as expected per Steam Engine and also confirmed on my Ohm Reader). After a few mins vaping this at 30w on the Inbox, the battery indicator starts flashing.

Never seen that before, usually it says 'weak battery' when the cell cannot provide enough power. Remember, this is a DNA75 chip inside.

So I pull the battery (LG HG2) and put it on the charger (Efest LUCv6) and it reads 3.67v.

So, puzzled I try another freshly charged LG HG2, that was resting in my stand (not in the charger) and put that in the Inbox. Same thing with the flashing battery indicator. When removed and placed on charger, voltage is 4.05v.

Ok. So I swap the Goon for the Wasp Nano (4 spaced wraps of 24g SS316L on 3.5mm ID, 0.29 Ohms).

Same problem on the Inbox with the flashing battery indicator.

So I lower the power down to 25w. Same problem.

Change it into TC mode with Djaquith's DNA SS316L v7 profile, set the mod for 420F and 35w. 3-4 puffs all is fine just like in wattage mode. Then, same problem with flashing battery indicator.

So, after some google-fu, found some info about changing the battery cutoff in Escribe down to 2.5v (default setting was 2.8v). Changed it. Now after first firing, battery thing is flashing again.

Also verified that the cell-type parameter was set for "18650 Litium-Ion" and not "Lithium-Polymer Pack". All these things were verified the first few times I ran Escribe.

So I set it back to 2.8v and open the Diagnostics Monitor in Escribe and am looking at everything while firing it, and it shows room temp is 109 F (not accurate, digital thermometer/hygrometer at my desk shows 80 F) and board temp is 190 F. Seem kind of high to me.

The mod and battery were both hotter than I've ever felt since I started vaping, moreso even than when I use a hair dryer to shrink a battery wrap...

I removed the battery, and let everything cool off.

Also to note, I never got the message from the DNA chip 'Too Hot' which I had seen a few times on my Lost Vape Drone.

After the mod cooled off, I tried 4 other NEWER LG HG2 cells, and still got the flashing battery icon.

So I removed the Wasp Nano, and put on my Kanger TopTank Mini which has a 1.07 Ohm 27g Kanthal build on the Inbox and set it for wattage mode at my normal 18w.

Thinking if something was fubar with the settings of the voltage cutoff, or the Escribe settings for 'maximium input amp draw' which is set to 32a. I had not changed this setting.

I figured higher resistance and lower watts should at least work since it is drawing less current from the battery.

But, nope. Fate was not smiling. Still got the flashing battery icon even with a 1.07 Ohm build @ 18w.

I've had the Inbox since Feburary, and bought it used but 'like new' here on VU (with the Wasp Nano) and it worked fine up to this point. Never been dropped, never left the house and it sits on my desk since day one.

I tried to open it via the 4x 1mm hex screws on the case, but one of them was apparently stripped and I could not get it out.

I wanted to see if maybe there was liquid inside or something came loose, but cannot get it open.

So now it sits unused, in a box on the side of my desk.

If I wanted to salvage the DNA75 board and some of the other parts, I will likely have to cut the case apart with a dremel, which could all be for nothing if something is fried with the DNA board now.

Any ideas what to do next?

Any ideas what the root cause of the problem could be?

Should I buy some brand new high-drain cells like Sony VTC5a's and see if they too experience the same problems in the Inbox?

Should I do a 'Factory Reset' in Escribe? (this will reset the default DNA75 firmware settings and purge all of the custom screens installed by HCigar, and I'm not sure how to back them up).

Please help me Obi-Wan Bonkers, you are my only hope...
Really really wish I could help you but I know very little about that mod/device.My honest best advice is just remove the battery/cell and use a different mod/device for awhile and let whatever gremlin is haunting that problem 1 get bored enough to leave.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Really really wish I could help you but I know very little about that mod/device.My honest best advice is just remove the battery/cell and use a different mod/device for awhile and let whatever gremlin is haunting that problem 1 get bored enough to leave.
Thanks for the reply.

Lots of helpful folks have come to my aid here in this thread, and I truly appreciate the effort.

Kudos to you all! Long Live The Bonkers!!!
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I've been tossing around the idea of swapping out the DNA75 board with a DNA60 because in the SXK BB, the DNA60 has been rock solid. I found someone on Shapeways that has 3D-printed panels and mounts for the DNA60 so hacking the enclosure would not be a horrible mess (I hope)...

If Evolv were to tell me to kiss off, then this could be an idea for after that...

Just in case anyone wants to see...

Here's the link for the Shapeways parts from Mamu for the DNA60, and others are listed in the sidebar

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mamu?section=DNA60&s=0
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I had not played that one. I'll have to check that out.

My first entries into graphical first-person RPG/shooter type games began with Wolfenstein and there were lots of network-multiplayer sessions late at night at the computer lab back in college, where we played DOOM, Hexen, Heretic, Quake, Unreal Tournament etc...but unless you were in the Mac lab and using a Mac, there was no sound since the PC's did not have sound cards in them except for the ones in the Music Dept. But on the Macintosh, later models like the Quadra had decent enough sound for those games...
Oh my giddy aunt.I played everyone of those.I played (Doom) so much I started having dreams about playing it...Not kidding.Then got my hot little hands on (Descent) and didn't come out of my hovel for about 6 weeks.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for the reply.

Lots of helpful folks have come to my aid here in this thread, and I truly appreciate the effort.

Kudos to you all! Long Live The Bonkers!!!
Yep all the bonkers are here to help.
They still help me with lots of stuff.Even though I'm a pain in the butt and not always a friendly person.
Alright I'm never really friendly but sometimes I'm less wolf more lamb.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Oh my giddy aunt.I played everyone of those.I played (Doom) so much I started having dreams about playing it...Not kidding.Then got my hot little hands on (Descent) and didn't come out of my hovel for about 6 weeks.
I think it was Descent that was the first game for which I actually bought a decent joystick, I think it was called the F-16 or something and it was supposed to replicate the controls of an F-16 fighter jet, and it paired very well with Descent, Descent 2, and one of the helicopter sims I also played at the time...

~memories~

Nowadays I have little time for any games, other than the idle moment when waiting at the doctors office, etc, and for that I can get in a few rounds of Bejeweled Classic on my phone...
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I think it was Descent that was the first game for which I actually bought a decent joystick, I think it was called the F-16 or something and it was supposed to replicate the controls of an F-16 fighter jet, and it paired very well with Descent, Descent 2, and one of the helicopter sims I also played at the time...

~memories~

Nowadays I have little time for any games, other than the idle moment when waiting at the doctors office, etc, and for that I can get in a few rounds of Bejeweled Classic on my phone...
Odd how games swing back and forth from just mouse & keyboard to needing every peripheral on the market back to mouse & keyboard.
I tried the smartphone games and don't really enjoy them.Damn screen is too small and everything is so bright it hurts my damn eyes.

Time seems the 1 thing I got plenty of.I retired years ago.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Hey there fellow Bonkers -

How is your Saturday going?

Any thoughts on the following newer, authentic MTL RSAs?
  • Vapefly Galaxies
  • GeekVape Ammit
  • Vandy Vape Beserker

I'm trying to find one in the middle-ground, with a range between restricted DTL and more open MTL...

The reason that these have caught my attention is that with a SMALLER hole closer to the coil where the air hits the coil, this creates a higher-velocity air flow, which in my experience creates more flavor, and more heat-feeling to your mouth, without needing high power...

My main use will be on the v1 of the Pico Squeeze for now.

Please tell me your thoughts - good, bad and ugly regarding these atomizers listed above. :)
 

DogMan

VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Hey there fellow Bonkers -

How is your Saturday going?

Any thoughts on the following newer, authentic MTL RSAs?
  • Vapefly Galaxies
  • GeekVape Ammit
  • Vandy Vape Beserker

I'm trying to find one in the middle-ground, with a range between restricted DTL and more open MTL...

The reason that these have caught my attention is that with a SMALLER hole closer to the coil where the air hits the coil, this creates a higher-velocity air flow, which in my experience creates more flavor, and more heat-feeling to your mouth, without needing high power...

My main use will be on the v1 of the Pico Squeeze for now.

Please tell me your thoughts - good, bad and ugly regarding these atomizers listed above. :)
I think @BrewBear has had all 3.
 

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