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Slow Coil Heat Up

KingKut92

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Hey all,

Just encountered a new problem and I'm trying to figure it out. I'm pretty new to vaping so I'm hoping its just beginner error. For whatever reason, my coil build is taking a very long time to heat up and never really produces a lot of vapor. The build I have right now is a double 26g micro coil build at .28 ohms. I am using a fully charged IMR 18650, 2500mAh 35A battery. I don't charge it before it has been fully discharged. My battery shows no signs of damage and was purchased brand new about 2 months ago. The battery does not rattle and is snug inside my mod. Both contacts on my atty and mod are positioned so that they are making contact with the + and -.

I am getting subpar vapor from a build that is supposed to produce thick vapor.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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Hey all,

Just encountered a new problem and I'm trying to figure it out. I'm pretty new to vaping so I'm hoping its just beginner error. For whatever reason, my coil build is taking a very long time to heat up and never really produces a lot of vapor. The build I have right now is a double 26g micro coil build at .28 ohms. I am using a fully charged IMR 18650, 2500mAh 35A battery. I don't charge it before it has been fully discharged. My battery shows no signs of damage and was purchased brand new about 2 months ago. The battery does not rattle and is snug inside my mod. Both contacts on my atty and mod are positioned so that they are making contact with the + and -.

I am getting subpar vapor from a build that is supposed to produce thick vapor.

Anyone have any ideas?
Do the coils fire up any faster on their own - without being wicked?
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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Voltage drop in your mod, dirty contacts, atty post screws not tight. Could be any of the three. What mod and atty are you using?
 

KingKut92

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They do not fire any faster without wick. And my setup is a Tobh clone atty and a sigelei taiji.
 

KingKut92

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And forgot the mention its even happening on my atty that was built for me at my local vape shop. Both of my attys are firing very slow.
 

freemind

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Hey all,

Just encountered a new problem and I'm trying to figure it out. I'm pretty new to vaping so I'm hoping its just beginner error. For whatever reason, my coil build is taking a very long time to heat up and never really produces a lot of vapor. The build I have right now is a double 26g micro coil build at .28 ohms. I am using a fully charged IMR 18650, 2500mAh 35A battery. I don't charge it before it has been fully discharged. My battery shows no signs of damage and was purchased brand new about 2 months ago. The battery does not rattle and is snug inside my mod. Both contacts on my atty and mod are positioned so that they are making contact with the + and -.

I am getting subpar vapor from a build that is supposed to produce thick vapor.

Anyone have any ideas?

I don't know what you mean by that, but IF you are using the battery until it will not make any vapor anymore, you could have killed the battery.

You need to have a volt meter if you don't have one. Never run a vape battery completely dead.
 

KingKut92

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What I mean is, I won't put the battery on my charger dock until it is dead. I don't charge them if they still have half a charge for example.
 

KingKut92

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Wow, quite the contrary to how to charge these batteries. I always assumed run them till dead then charge them, that may be my problem.
 

freemind

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Fast way to test them is once "charged" fully, out a volt meter on them.

They should read 4.2 volts.
 

Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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Wow, quite the contrary to how to charge these batteries. I always assumed run them till dead then charge them, that may be my problem.
That was the case with nickel cadmiums because they would otherwise crystallise and cause a memory effect.

In most cases 3.2v is even too low (this is where regulated mods cut out). If an imr's range is from 3.2 to 4.2 then it's nominal charge is 3.7. I recharge at that point. Going too low stresses the battery thus making it weaker and in some cases it permanently damages it.
 

Bryan92081

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The guys at my local vape shop told me that they consider the battery to be "dead" at 3.6 volts.
 

freemind

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The guys at my local vape shop told me that they consider the battery to be "dead" at 3.6 volts.

I'd probably agree with that statement. Wouldn't be much use in a Mech mod. Maybe somewhat useful in a VV/VW set up, but still should be replaced.
 

KingKut92

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Well I've never checked the voltage of the batteries, but a better definition of when I recharge my batteries would be once my cloud thickness drops to very low.
 

MKPM

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Well I've never checked the voltage of the batteries, but a better definition of when I recharge my batteries would be once my cloud thickness drops to very low.
You should notice flavour drop-off before cloud production. Every time I notice flavour drop-off and put my batteries in my LUC....sure enough, they are at 3.4v...time to recharge.
 

KingKut92

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Can anyone recommend my a voltage meter and an ohm meter?
 

Hobby Kid

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Well I've never checked the voltage of the batteries, but a better definition of when I recharge my batteries would be once my cloud thickness drops to very low.
What charger are you using @KingKut92 and have you thought about upgrading? Some chargers have the 'occasional' ability to bring batteries back to life and show you the voltage.
 

freemind

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I use an eLeaf meter for ohms.
Any cheap voltage meter (like from Habor Freight) will work for batteries.
 

freemind

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I have an i2, but think I am gonna upgrade to the i4 real QUICK. Too damn many batteries and not enough charger slots. :confused:
 

MKPM

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At $34-$37 I have yet to find a charger that is better than the LUC in any meaningful way. Shame they do not make LiPo chargers.
 

Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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Those nitecores are a bit slow for me. I have an LUC amongst many lol. @franciscan which lipos do you want to charge? I charge my lower mah lipos via directly connected to a usb plug
 

KingKut92

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Just found a voltage meter in my house and both batteries are reading 4.2.
 

KingKut92

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Well I'm using 26 gauge kanthal at 6 wraps. Not sure on the actual diameter of the screwdriver I use to roll on, but its small enough that I'd consider it a micro coil.
 

KingKut92

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The middle post is usually positive or negative?
 

KingKut92

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Alright so its reading 4.19v at the posts on the atty
 

freemind

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That's a good, full charged battery.

Are the screws tight to the coil leads? Are the coils loose, despite tight screws?
 

KingKut92

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Yes, I tested them screwed tightly down without a coil build put in
 

freemind

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Your issue may be your coil screws are not tight enough with the coils in, or, they were too tight and cut through the coil leads causing a bad connection.
 

Bryan92081

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Those nitecores are a bit slow for me. I have an LUC amongst many lol. @franciscan which lipos do you want to charge? I charge my lower mah lipos via directly connected to a usb plug
Really? I've got this Nitecore d2. http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=115 I carry one battery in my mech and a spare and so does my wife and it keeps up with all our charging needs. I wanna say it charges my battery in about 4 hours. Is the LUC a lot faster than that?
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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584_P_1404676447035.jpg


OK, when you unscrew the top and switch at the bottom, what color are the threads in the tube? Are they anodized black like the rest of the mod? If the threads are colored black and anodized like the rest of the mod, the problem is that you've got a huge voltage drop because anodizing isn't very electrically conductive.

Here's the Tai JI Atomizer:

582_P_1402431996969.jpg
 

KingKut92

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Yes, I should have mentioned that when I purchased this mod, the store owner built me a macro coil setup and the thing did throw a lot of vapor.
 

KingKut92

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I just rebuilt it with two 26g micro coils at 10 wraps and it seems to be producing better vapor. I'm just wondering why I'm not getting something more like this. Go to 15:05
 

Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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Really? I've got this Nitecore d2. http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=115 I carry one battery in my mech and a spare and so does my wife and it keeps up with all our charging needs. I wanna say it charges my battery in about 4 hours. Is the LUC a lot faster than that?
I mostly use an AWT. It has independent charging channels and will charge each battery at 1amp whereas the nitecore distributes it's power. The AWT will charge a 3000mah 18650s within 1hr - 1.5hrs.

For a good rundown on chargers check out this link http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/indexBatteriesAndChargers UK.html
 

manson

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Sorry to jump in so late in the game. But i was having the same issue on my Tobh. I had found the little spring on the inside bottom of the positive post. It had deformed and made the positive pin a little wonky. So it wasn't making good contact on the battery. I rewrapped with a pen spring and haven't looked back
 

bondo

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Batt is good, atty/batt connection is good.
the next step in the firing line is the set screws.
even with 26g, it's easy enough to nip the contact with the set screw and most times you won't notice it. There's usually no distinct "snap" to it And even if you do nip it off with the screw the leg can still get bound in a thread giving the impression that there's solid contact.
 

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