I've battled with the same question. I use Sony's in my Sig 100+. The thing that concerns me is, the device is capable of outputting 30A and technically, Sony's are the only truly safe choice. The boxes are wired in series, so you only have the available amps of a single battery, which is 20A (30A with Sony's) The Sig 150 can output 40A, but with 2x 20A batteries in series, that's still only a total of 20A of available power from those cells. 2 Sony's only get you to 30A...So, there are NO batteries with a continuous rating that is high enough for the full output of the Sig 150w or IPV3 for that matter.Does the Sigelei 150w use 20A or 30A batteries? I know the 100 uses 30A and the 100+ uses 20A.
Sounds like you're set except for an ohm meter - what gauge and type of wire are you going to be working with?Hi there! Thank you for replying so quickly. I ended up purchasing the Sig 150 Oni edition. I also bought an RDA, went with a 3 post and the brand freak show. Found a pretty legit one. Also bought the nitecore d2 charger for my batteries and for the batteries I bought the mxjo 3.7v 2500mah. Feeling pretty confident in this set up. I have the wiring to build the coil. Can't wait for it to ship, it's like getting new toys lol
I've battled with the same question. I use Sony's in my Sig 100+. The thing that concerns me is, the device is capable of outputting 30A and technically, Sony's are the only truly safe choice. The boxes are wired in series, so you only have the available amps of a single battery, which is 20A (30A with Sony's) The Sig 150 can output 40A, but with 2x 20A batteries in series, that's still only a total of 20A of available power from those cells. 2 Sony's only get you to 30A...So, there are NO batteries with a continuous rating that is high enough for the full output of the Sig 150w or IPV3 for that matter.
I hear you. Safety wise, probably not a big issue. Just saying that if you do push it to 40A, you are deep into 'pulse' territory for your batteries. In this case I feel much more comfortable with Sony's which can pulse for over 75 seconds @60A. About high resistance and higher wattage's...the Sig 100w and 150w need to be built between a .1ohm and .3ohm in order to acheive the full wattage of the device. This is due to the 7 volt limitation of the chips themselves.Don't quote me on this, because I am looking threw websites as I am writing this but I believe that part of the chipset is you can use it in an unregulated mode like a mech mod. Also, 40 amps is the max input it can handle...it doesn't mean you have to push it that hard. To get a 40 amp draw at 150 watts you'd have to build like a .095 coil. The beauty of these regulated high wattage box mods is you can build at a higher resistance and still get the high wattage out of them. If you just do straight ohm's law math then a .326 ohm coil would draw 21.43 amps and that makes it possible to run that with a pair of Samsung 20R batteries....true, you're pushing them to their max but it's still possible. And I know with regulated mods there is the variance of amps drawn vs. amps output...it was just a crude, quick example. A .25 build running at 100 watts is around the 20 amp mark and that, for me, is more than enough power to fry my lungs
I am not trying to start an argument about batteries, and everyone that has read my posts knows I am huge on battery safety and had my share of shorts and scares...but...that being said....20 amp continuous batteries should power most peoples wattage needs and builds without a problem for the time being. I still am an old school mech user...every time I go to buy a regulated mod like a Segelei I some how end up with another mech (do'h) But even so, I never build below .25...not because I am scared of pushing my VTC batteries to their 30 amp limits...but because I am personally happy vaping at 40-60 watts. And honestly, I think that is plenty of power for a newer vaper. Including myself and the few I've managed to convert to vaping over the last couple years I haven't seen anyone take a hit off one of my 50 watt builds for the first time that didn't choke
The setup you got @Kellie should be more than enough to keep you happy and satisfy your vaping needs for the time being and for awhile...and depending on what gauge of wire you have will determine what you build your resistance at. And if and when you're ready to go past the 100 watt mark there will be VTC batteries there to buy and hopefully this year we will finally get more battery makers that are not scared of their product being used for vaping and start putting out higher amp limit batteries again like the old samsung 15m's, AW's old 1600 mah 24amp 18650 which was and is a great battery, and the famous VTC4's.
Hope you enjoy your new set up, and as always....happy vaping!
I hear you. Safety wise, probably not a big issue. Just saying that if you do push it to 40A, you are deep into 'pulse' territory for your batteries. In this case I feel much more comfortable with Sony's which can pulse for over 75 seconds @60A. About high resistance and higher wattage's...the Sig 100w and 150w need to be built between a .1ohm and .3ohm in order to acheive the full wattage of the device. This is due to the 7 volt limitation of the chips themselves.
Nope, I've done my research and it's 40A input and 40A output. What I've posted about battery safety here is not 'misinformation'. The device can pull and push 40A which, for 2 cells in series, will always exceed the cells continuous rating. Mostly all cells on the market now are 20A continuous and 2 18650's in series still only gives you 20A continuous. The device can potentially draw 2x the safe continuous discharge from your batteries.The Sigelei 150 has a max input current of 30 amps. The max output current is 40 amps. Two 30a batteries in series will provide the max input that the sig will pull. You CAN NOT apply what's happening on the output side of the convertor to the input side. Just because you have x amps being put out by the convertor doesn't mean you have the same x amps being drawn by it. There is a lot of misinformation here about how vw mods work.
I'd advise against it - Samsung 25R or LG HE2/HE4 are probably cheaper and without a doubt more reliable...Will efest 38 amp 18650 2100 mah batteries work alright with sig 150
Will efest 38 amp 18650 2100 mah batteries work alright with sig 150
Does the Sigelei 150w use 20A or 30A batteries? I know the 100 uses 30A and the 100+ uses 20A.
To the best of my knowledge, none of those mods "uses" a certain amp battery.
They all use whatever amp battery you buy for it.
Ohm's law is ohms law...
.1 ohm @ 150w is 3.87V and 38.73 Amps
If the device is delivering 3.87V to a .1ohm, than it is demanding 38.73 Amps from your batteries.
As far as I know, there is no magical algorithm that defies ohms law and draws the missing 8.73 Amps out of thin air.
As I put in my first post in this thread, it's something I'm curious about. I'd be happy to review some actual information if you have it. Link to your claim of 30A and custom chip, link to info on how you can take 30A and convert it to 40A without demanding it from a power source?
I'm no expert, and can accept when I'm wrong...but I need more than your word.
IMREN isn't off brand , it's not main brandI like Samsung, LG, and Sony. I don't like any random off-brands that claim things like 40 amps - no such battery actually exists, and there's no way to tell what they're actually selling you and whether it's sufficient...
My definition of vape battery manufacturers:IMREN isn't off brand , it's not main brand
https://www.elementvape.com/imren-18650-3000mah-40a-high-drain-rechargeable-battery-purpleMy definition of vape battery manufacturers:
- Sony
- Samsung
- LG
- Panasonic (low-amp mods only)
My definition of "off-brands," or re-wrappers who don't actually produce batteries and often lie about the specs of their cells:
- Anyone not on list one, including Imren, Efest, and MXJO
If there is actually such a thing as a 40A continuous 18650, it's news to me. Please share a link to source the specs, because I'll buy a dozen right now!
Willing to bet a Tim Horton's doughnut though that if these aren't the same battery rewrapped they're close....anyone else seen a 3000 mah 20 amp battery come out while I've been traveling for work the last couple weeks? I admit I am behind on my research but not that far
That's a vendor claim, not an independent test. I guess I should have been more specific.