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Sigelei 150w Batteries (HELP)

SpyMR2

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Does the Sigelei 150w use 20A or 30A batteries? I know the 100 uses 30A and the 100+ uses 20A.
 

MrScaryZ

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Well you are in a stickly place at the moment unless you have some Sony VTC3,4 or VTC5's all the current batteries are rated at 20amp continuous so just stick in either the LG HE's EFEST 35A or the Samsung 25R you probably will not ever see the 150watts but do you need to see 150 watts I know I do not with my IPV V3 and I upgraded mine to the 165 watt firmware just for fun dont worry about it
 

SpyMR2

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I did order the Samsung 25R's. I don't think my buddy will ever use the full 150, maybe only 100. Just 150 every once in a while to show off. lol. Thank you for replying so fast.
 

madmonkey

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The 25R's are a solid battery with high performance rating....They're a 20 amp continuous drain battery with a pulse rating of, if I remember right, 100 amps so they should hold up just fine for your 150. Happy new year and enjoy!
 

Zamazam

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MrScaryZ is correct, the LG HE2, or Efest 35Amp (rewrapped LG HE2), Samsung 25R are all good. MJXO is putting out some 18650's that are high amp rated, I have some and am using them in my Sigelei 100 watt with no issues.
 
I'm buying the 150w. I'm new to this need the full setup. Help. Just buying the box what else should I get
 

OBDave

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Hi @Kellie - wow, jumping in in a big way by going straight to the Sig 150! Not a bad choice, it'll give you all the protection and power you'll likely ever need...but it's not all you'll need. Also get:

2 pairs of batteries that you'll mark and keep as "married pairs." Read this thread and it pretty much covers the good types.
A good charger - generally Xtar, Efest LUC, and Nitecore are the preferred brands, in that order.
A topper - here's where you'll need to do your research to determine whether you want a tank or a dripper. There are literally thousands of choices, so not knowing what you're interested in I don't know where to start.

If you're going to be building your own coils you'll also need an ohm meter (even though the Sig has one on board, get a standalone to check one against the other), wire, wicking material, tweezers, wire cutters, and I've lately become a huge fan of the coil tools like the Coilmaster and Kuro Coiler - I've got both and either make wrapping the perfect coil nearly idiot-proof.
 
Hi there! Thank you for replying so quickly. I ended up purchasing the Sig 150 Oni edition. I also bought an RDA, went with a 3 post and the brand freak show. Found a pretty legit one. Also bought the nitecore d2 charger for my batteries and for the batteries I bought the mxjo 3.7v 2500mah. Feeling pretty confident in this set up. I have the wiring to build the coil. Can't wait for it to ship, it's like getting new toys lol
 

Sully

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Does the Sigelei 150w use 20A or 30A batteries? I know the 100 uses 30A and the 100+ uses 20A.
I've battled with the same question. I use Sony's in my Sig 100+. The thing that concerns me is, the device is capable of outputting 30A and technically, Sony's are the only truly safe choice. The boxes are wired in series, so you only have the available amps of a single battery, which is 20A (30A with Sony's) The Sig 150 can output 40A, but with 2x 20A batteries in series, that's still only a total of 20A of available power from those cells. 2 Sony's only get you to 30A...So, there are NO batteries with a continuous rating that is high enough for the full output of the Sig 150w or IPV3 for that matter.
 

OBDave

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Hi there! Thank you for replying so quickly. I ended up purchasing the Sig 150 Oni edition. I also bought an RDA, went with a 3 post and the brand freak show. Found a pretty legit one. Also bought the nitecore d2 charger for my batteries and for the batteries I bought the mxjo 3.7v 2500mah. Feeling pretty confident in this set up. I have the wiring to build the coil. Can't wait for it to ship, it's like getting new toys lol
Sounds like you're set except for an ohm meter - what gauge and type of wire are you going to be working with?
 

madmonkey

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I've battled with the same question. I use Sony's in my Sig 100+. The thing that concerns me is, the device is capable of outputting 30A and technically, Sony's are the only truly safe choice. The boxes are wired in series, so you only have the available amps of a single battery, which is 20A (30A with Sony's) The Sig 150 can output 40A, but with 2x 20A batteries in series, that's still only a total of 20A of available power from those cells. 2 Sony's only get you to 30A...So, there are NO batteries with a continuous rating that is high enough for the full output of the Sig 150w or IPV3 for that matter.

Don't quote me on this, because I am looking threw websites as I am writing this but I believe that part of the chipset is you can use it in an unregulated mode like a mech mod. Also, 40 amps is the max input it can handle...it doesn't mean you have to push it that hard. To get a 40 amp draw at 150 watts you'd have to build like a .095 coil. The beauty of these regulated high wattage box mods is you can build at a higher resistance and still get the high wattage out of them. If you just do straight ohm's law math then a .326 ohm coil would draw 21.43 amps and that makes it possible to run that with a pair of Samsung 20R batteries....true, you're pushing them to their max but it's still possible. And I know with regulated mods there is the variance of amps drawn vs. amps output...it was just a crude, quick example. A .25 build running at 100 watts is around the 20 amp mark and that, for me, is more than enough power to fry my lungs :)

I am not trying to start an argument about batteries, and everyone that has read my posts knows I am huge on battery safety and had my share of shorts and scares...but...that being said....20 amp continuous batteries should power most peoples wattage needs and builds without a problem for the time being. I still am an old school mech user...every time I go to buy a regulated mod like a Segelei I some how end up with another mech :) (do'h) But even so, I never build below .25...not because I am scared of pushing my VTC batteries to their 30 amp limits...but because I am personally happy vaping at 40-60 watts. And honestly, I think that is plenty of power for a newer vaper. Including myself and the few I've managed to convert to vaping over the last couple years I haven't seen anyone take a hit off one of my 50 watt builds for the first time that didn't choke :)

The setup you got @Kellie should be more than enough to keep you happy and satisfy your vaping needs for the time being and for awhile...and depending on what gauge of wire you have will determine what you build your resistance at. And if and when you're ready to go past the 100 watt mark there will be VTC batteries there to buy and hopefully this year we will finally get more battery makers that are not scared of their product being used for vaping and start putting out higher amp limit batteries again like the old samsung 15m's, AW's old 1600 mah 24amp 18650 which was and is a great battery, and the famous VTC4's.

Hope you enjoy your new set up, and as always....happy vaping! :)
 

Sully

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Don't quote me on this, because I am looking threw websites as I am writing this but I believe that part of the chipset is you can use it in an unregulated mode like a mech mod. Also, 40 amps is the max input it can handle...it doesn't mean you have to push it that hard. To get a 40 amp draw at 150 watts you'd have to build like a .095 coil. The beauty of these regulated high wattage box mods is you can build at a higher resistance and still get the high wattage out of them. If you just do straight ohm's law math then a .326 ohm coil would draw 21.43 amps and that makes it possible to run that with a pair of Samsung 20R batteries....true, you're pushing them to their max but it's still possible. And I know with regulated mods there is the variance of amps drawn vs. amps output...it was just a crude, quick example. A .25 build running at 100 watts is around the 20 amp mark and that, for me, is more than enough power to fry my lungs :)

I am not trying to start an argument about batteries, and everyone that has read my posts knows I am huge on battery safety and had my share of shorts and scares...but...that being said....20 amp continuous batteries should power most peoples wattage needs and builds without a problem for the time being. I still am an old school mech user...every time I go to buy a regulated mod like a Segelei I some how end up with another mech :) (do'h) But even so, I never build below .25...not because I am scared of pushing my VTC batteries to their 30 amp limits...but because I am personally happy vaping at 40-60 watts. And honestly, I think that is plenty of power for a newer vaper. Including myself and the few I've managed to convert to vaping over the last couple years I haven't seen anyone take a hit off one of my 50 watt builds for the first time that didn't choke :)

The setup you got @Kellie should be more than enough to keep you happy and satisfy your vaping needs for the time being and for awhile...and depending on what gauge of wire you have will determine what you build your resistance at. And if and when you're ready to go past the 100 watt mark there will be VTC batteries there to buy and hopefully this year we will finally get more battery makers that are not scared of their product being used for vaping and start putting out higher amp limit batteries again like the old samsung 15m's, AW's old 1600 mah 24amp 18650 which was and is a great battery, and the famous VTC4's.

Hope you enjoy your new set up, and as always....happy vaping! :)
I hear you. Safety wise, probably not a big issue. Just saying that if you do push it to 40A, you are deep into 'pulse' territory for your batteries. In this case I feel much more comfortable with Sony's which can pulse for over 75 seconds @60A. About high resistance and higher wattage's...the Sig 100w and 150w need to be built between a .1ohm and .3ohm in order to acheive the full wattage of the device. This is due to the 7 volt limitation of the chips themselves.
 

madmonkey

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I hear you. Safety wise, probably not a big issue. Just saying that if you do push it to 40A, you are deep into 'pulse' territory for your batteries. In this case I feel much more comfortable with Sony's which can pulse for over 75 seconds @60A. About high resistance and higher wattage's...the Sig 100w and 150w need to be built between a .1ohm and .3ohm in order to acheive the full wattage of the device. This is due to the 7 volt limitation of the chips themselves.

Yup....I agree with you...I don't like venturing into "pulse" limits at all...but that's just me. I have a handful of VTC4's and 5's I bought before the fakes flooded the market thankfully. I just am a big fan of the Samsung 20R....it's only a 22 amp continuous battery but I prefer it even to it's newer brother, the 25R. I've never had a problem with them, or had to worry about them being fake. I had to buy them from battery stores or flashlight websites when I first got them because I couldn't even find them in online vape shops...but back then it was "all AW" or nothing :)

I don't have a YIHI chipset mod, but I do constantly look up their specs before I say anything because I don't want to type out my ass or give misinformation and be unsafe....that's why I said she should be fine up to 100 watts with those batteries....5 volts at .25 is a hundred watts...which is plenty more than enough for my taste my friend. What can I say? I like cool to warm vapes at best and am a flavor chaser and not a cloud chaser...although I do love my MX V3....I have the v2 as well, but was pissed I broke the stupid triangle key the first day and had a bitch of a time getting the screws out and replacing them with Kidney Punchers hex versions...but I am getting off track here....sorry, I do that from time to time :D

I just am hoping that the new VTC factory being built gets cracking out VTC5's again that are real sooner than later. Like I said...I feel like all these battery companies are scared to make high amp batteries because of us. I know that the new hybrid chemistries are still being developed to match desired battery life with performance but Samsung used to make a 25 amp battery, be it only a 1500 mah, and the 20R was originally a 20 amp battery they revised into a 22 amp battery so the technology is being developed and is there....

But I think sometimes, myself included, forget just how much power these little things have....20 amps is a lot of raw power to have in such a small tube. Maybe it's good that our batteries limit us in some ways? How many watts do we really need to get a good vape? :D
 

Slurp812

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A 20amp battery can only put out roughly 70 watts at its max 20 amps. So 150 is pushing it a bit...
 

BoomStick

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The Sigelei 150 has a max input current of 30 amps. The max output current is 40 amps. Two 30a batteries in series will provide the max input that the sig will pull. You CAN NOT apply what's happening on the output side of the convertor to the input side. Just because you have x amps being put out by the convertor doesn't mean you have the same x amps being drawn by it. There is a lot of misinformation here about how vw mods work.
 

Sully

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The Sigelei 150 has a max input current of 30 amps. The max output current is 40 amps. Two 30a batteries in series will provide the max input that the sig will pull. You CAN NOT apply what's happening on the output side of the convertor to the input side. Just because you have x amps being put out by the convertor doesn't mean you have the same x amps being drawn by it. There is a lot of misinformation here about how vw mods work.
Nope, I've done my research and it's 40A input and 40A output. What I've posted about battery safety here is not 'misinformation'. The device can pull and push 40A which, for 2 cells in series, will always exceed the cells continuous rating. Mostly all cells on the market now are 20A continuous and 2 18650's in series still only gives you 20A continuous. The device can potentially draw 2x the safe continuous discharge from your batteries.

YiHi chip specs below for the SX330 150W chip (used in the Sig 150).

upload_2015-4-7_10-2-45.png

http://www.yihiecigar.com/products_info/YiHiEcigar-SX330-V3S-150W-279032.html
 
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BoomStick

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You sure about that? Why does the input voltage and the output wattage not match the Sigelei 150 specs?
 

BoomStick

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Those specs match the ipv3, but not the sigelei 150. The reason is the sig uses a semi custom yihi chip. It is not identical to a stock sx330 v3s. You have in fact posted misinformation.
 

Sully

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Ohm's law is ohms law...

.1 ohm @ 150w is 3.87V and 38.73 Amps

If the device is delivering 3.87V to a .1ohm, than it is demanding 38.73 Amps from your batteries.

As far as I know, there is no magical algorithm that defies ohms law and draws the missing 8.73 Amps out of thin air.

As I put in my first post in this thread, it's something I'm curious about. I'd be happy to review some actual information if you have it. Link to your claim of 30A and custom chip, link to info on how you can take 30A and convert it to 40A without demanding it from a power source?

I'm no expert, and can accept when I'm wrong...but I need more than your word.
 

BoomStick

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8.4v X 17.8a = 150w

A stun gun can take a 9v battery and use it to make 250,000v. A regulated mod can take high volts with low current to make low volts with high current. It's not magic and you not believing me doesn't make me wrong.
 
It will do for a week or so though right I mean is there a certain wattage I shouldn't go above to be safe until I get my 25rs
 

OBDave

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You want to use only "married pairs" in a dual-battery mod - two batteries that, since brand new, have only been used together. If that's how you've been using your Efests in another mod you could probably get by, but if they don't have the same history of use and charging (i.e. you've been swapping them out in a single-battery mech, when sometimes you'll pull one to charge a little earlier or later) I wouldn't recommend it.
 

madmonkey

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Will efest 38 amp 18650 2100 mah batteries work alright with sig 150

Honestly, I'd go for a pair of VTC 3's, you can get them dirt cheap in some places, yes they're only 1600 mah but 2 pairs of them get me threw the day in my sig 150 and 30 amp's is 30 amps...other than that I would recommend the the LG HD2 25 amp batteries or the new HB6's coming out....again the HB6's are only 1500 mah but they're true 30 amp batteries. I use Samsung 25R's, VTC 3's , and HD2's in my sig...because I wanted to see how they all performed and honestly the 25R's seem to work fine up to about the 80-85 watt levels. If I chain vape them like on the 100 watt setting for awhile and then take the cover plate off of the mod I can feel the batteries getting warm...not dangerously hot but still warmer than the VTC's or the HD2's....

anyways...there's no data sheet or technical data to back on this...this was just a personal "real world" study to see what batteries best suited my vaping needs and you'd be surprised how long a 1600 mah VTC 3 lasts in the 150, I know I was :) just a thought.
 

zaroba

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Does the Sigelei 150w use 20A or 30A batteries? I know the 100 uses 30A and the 100+ uses 20A.

To the best of my knowledge, none of those mods "uses" a certain amp battery.
They all use whatever amp battery you buy for it.
 

madmonkey

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To the best of my knowledge, none of those mods "uses" a certain amp battery.
They all use whatever amp battery you buy for it.

I don't remember where but I read it but I remember reading somewhere that some chipsets have "smart stepdown" feature that won't let you draw more power from your batteries than they can handle but I don't know if that's true or which chipsets do that....anyone know if that's true or anything about it? Help please? I can admit when I don't know something for sure :)
 

zaroba

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Yea, they wont draw more then they are limited to or more then they need.
Just like when plugging something into the wall, the object wont draw the full amps that your house provides (I think 100 in the US).


(I read the op phrasing of "use" as just meaning "put in the mod")
 
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Slurp812

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Ohm's law is ohms law...

.1 ohm @ 150w is 3.87V and 38.73 Amps

If the device is delivering 3.87V to a .1ohm, than it is demanding 38.73 Amps from your batteries.

As far as I know, there is no magical algorithm that defies ohms law and draws the missing 8.73 Amps out of thin air.

As I put in my first post in this thread, it's something I'm curious about. I'd be happy to review some actual information if you have it. Link to your claim of 30A and custom chip, link to info on how you can take 30A and convert it to 40A without demanding it from a power source?

I'm no expert, and can accept when I'm wrong...but I need more than your word.

watts = volts times amps. There are 2 sides to a regulated mod. Battery side, and the atomizer side.

150 watts for this example. And we'll use a 0.100 ohm load.

The circuit also takes some power. Its not 100% efficient. So, lets say, for ease of these rough calculations, that the circuit is using 10 watts.

Under load, we will use 3.7 volts per cell. So pumping away the mod is requiring 160 watts from the batteries. This comes out to 21.62 amps. The mod "sees" 0.342 ohm load. Now for the Atty side. We ASSUME we are actually getting the 150 watts asked for. So we have our 2 numbers. of course 150 watts, and 0.100 ohms. The comes out to 3.87 volts being applied at the 0.100 ohm load, and 38.7 amps flowing through the atty. Amps did not come out of thin air, the regulator circuit can trade voltage for current and vice versa. :D
 

OBDave

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I like Samsung, LG, and Sony. I don't like any random off-brands that claim things like 40 amps - no such battery actually exists, and there's no way to tell what they're actually selling you and whether it's sufficient...
 
I like Samsung, LG, and Sony. I don't like any random off-brands that claim things like 40 amps - no such battery actually exists, and there's no way to tell what they're actually selling you and whether it's sufficient...
IMREN isn't off brand , it's not main brand
 

OBDave

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IMREN isn't off brand , it's not main brand
My definition of vape battery manufacturers:
- Sony
- Samsung
- LG
- Panasonic (low-amp mods only)

My definition of "off-brands," or re-wrappers who don't actually produce batteries and often lie about the specs of their cells:
- Anyone not on list one, including Imren, Efest, and MXJO

If there is actually such a thing as a 40A continuous 18650, it's news to me. Please share a link to source the specs, because I'll buy a dozen right now!
 
My definition of vape battery manufacturers:
- Sony
- Samsung
- LG
- Panasonic (low-amp mods only)

My definition of "off-brands," or re-wrappers who don't actually produce batteries and often lie about the specs of their cells:
- Anyone not on list one, including Imren, Efest, and MXJO

If there is actually such a thing as a 40A continuous 18650, it's news to me. Please share a link to source the specs, because I'll buy a dozen right now!
https://www.elementvape.com/imren-18650-3000mah-40a-high-drain-rechargeable-battery-purple
 

outwest

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Either this place is trying to appear to be the owner of the brand IMREN, or they are the owner of the brand. Interestingly, they have ultrafire displayed on their home page. http://imr-battery.com/index.html (notice the logo on the IMREN battery and logo at top left of website, plus company name is Shenzhen IMREN Technology Company Ltd. [at bottom right of page])
 

madmonkey

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http://www.nkon.nl/lg-18650-hg2-3000mah-20a.html <-----I am not sure if these are the same battery but I wouldn't be surprised....

They only have a 30 amp pulse limit and 20 amp continuous drain limit but these are new batteries and the only thing close I can google-fu that comes close to this 3000mah 40amp boast. Willing to bet a Tim Horton's doughnut though that if these aren't the same battery rewrapped they're close....anyone else seen a 3000 mah 20 amp battery come out while I've been traveling for work the last couple weeks? I admit I am behind on my research but not that far
 

Jon@LiionWholesale

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Willing to bet a Tim Horton's doughnut though that if these aren't the same battery rewrapped they're close....anyone else seen a 3000 mah 20 amp battery come out while I've been traveling for work the last couple weeks? I admit I am behind on my research but not that far

Yeah. The Samsung 30Q is rated in the documentation to 20A although they recommend 15A max, so that's another one.
 

NemesisVaper

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With a device like the Sig 100/150 we just need to be sensible with coil builds.

Due to the amount of voltage it can.supply anything over about 0.5 ohms on the 100w version and you can't physically reach 100w. Also, building super low is pretty pointless and may get you in trouble. A Nice 0.3-0.5 ohm build in my opinion gives you enough options in terms of wire choice and coil dimensions and keeps you safe.

Someone mentioned a mod being able to "sense" a.cells amp limit and scale back..... Yes and no. A mod can definitely see if a batteries voltage suddenly dips when loaded but it's definitely not similar to theorising of a wall charger and a device only drawing the current it wants. An amp limit of a cell is a finite point at which the manufacturer believes nothing bad is going to happen, a mod can't sense that, because it's a specification not a physically measurable, tangible thing. The mod will most certainly draw the current the build demands under.ohms law as that IS the load being asked of the cell(s).

Be careful with series mods. Some say to label each cell and.alternate their position on each recharge. Screw that, it's too hard to remember, simply swap the position of the cells at 60% and charge them at 20%. Doing that I've always had both cells read within 0.03V of eachother when I come to charge them. Doing this avoids uneven wear as there's a tendency for one cell to become dominant if used always in the same position.
 

NemesisVaper

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True.

My conclusion.. Use a mech.. The math is simpler ;-) just don't create a short, use crap batteries or build lower than the cells limit and you're golden.

Thinking about it, the math involved with regulated mods is much more complex. Forgive my small brain fart :)
 

BoomStick

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The watt setting divided by total battery voltage equals the current requirement asked of the cells (plus about 5% for convertor loss). It's actually pretty simple. As was mentioned, build specs have nothing to do with battery current in variable power mods.
 

NemesisVaper

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It's only simple if you know ;-) And now I do, so you've both made me smile. Can't beat going to bed just that little bit wiser.

Thanks.
 

Jack Merridew

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I'm about to buy a Sigelei 150W and I don't know what batteries to buy so I can vape safely. Batteries are giving me a headache.
 

NemesisVaper

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Personally if youbwant to be ultra safe grab the highest amp batteries youbwant with decent capacity.

LG HD2 25A 2000mAh are a great compromise between capacity and high amp limit.
 

BoomStick

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Max battery voltage will be 8.4v and it's supposed to give a low batt warning below 6.4v. Lets ignore convertor loss and see what the amps it should pull are at full power when the cells are fully charged and when they're at the minimum voltage the mod should allow.

150w / 8.4v = 17.85amps
150w / 6.4v = 23.43amps

The actual amp numbers may be a tad higher due to chip inefficiency. Sigelei claims the max input current is 30amps so 30amp continuous cells will certainly be safe, but if you're not running it wide open with near dead batteries, 20amp cells like LG HE2's or Samsung 25r's will do just fine. My opinion of course.
 

Jack Merridew

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If I don't plan on using it on extra high settings (mostly between 15 and 30), does this affect the batteries I should buy?
 

NemesisVaper

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According to the above math you'd be drawing just under 5A at 30W on low battery voltage, so perhaps the Samsung 30Q 3000mAh would be more appropriate for you. Those should be good for well over 100W.

Consider price of the cells and what kind of capacity you'd like and trade them off assuming the battery meets Amp requirements. Also Base it on the max you'll ever run the mod at, not just average. Bear in mind if you wanted to try maximum wattage you would be over 3 amps above the continuous with the 30q.
 

Jack Merridew

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Alright. I assume that having too many amps for what I use is no problem then?
 

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