Should Kanger recall and refund the flawed mini subtank? Yes!

[noejuice]

Dear friends. Many people are aware of this at this time, and I feel that Kanger should replace our factory flawed RTAs. Many people are in possession of damaged goods that they purchased new at retail.

1) Early versions (or some versions) of this tank have juice holes in the deck that resemble a hairline crack only. Please compare your models' deck with the deck clearly shown in The Vaping Bogan YouTube video from the 14 to 15 minute mark. When you see his unit, you will want to top yourself at the magnitude of how Kanger screwed us over.

2) Kanger must replace all flawed decks right now. Many many many people are new owners of the Subtank Mini that will never ever run juice through the coils no matter how they wick it up because there are no juice channels in their deck!

3) I'm upset. I ain't buying their coils; I'm never buying anything from them again; don't tell me to dremel it out; just explain to me why Kanger delivered decks with no juice channels in them. What's the point of all the fancy packaging and the big lie about it has an RBA section. No it does not! And all the poor people wondering why they're burning up their throats and their cotton. Shame on you KangerTech. Shame on you.

 

[UncleRJ]

You are absolutely correct.

Yes Kanger SHOULD replace the defective units. They are aware of the flaws in the design and they are working to correct them in the next generation of SubTanks.

No, sadly they will not replace them. We vapers have always been Beta testers who fund the next series of development which hopefully ends in a flawless and working product.

I have heard story after story of vapers having to get out their Dremels or Bead Reamers to correct the flaws in the first generation of product.

I myself have wanted a ST Mini with extra RBA heads from day one of their release but sadly experience has taught me to wait for a month or three after a new product is released to the vaping public at large for reviews and stories like this to come out and then wait for the final working design to arrive.

That being said, can you return it to the place you purchased it from?

 

[VapedCrusader]

Have you emailed Kanger about getting a replacement RBA deck?

They were very good with shipping me the insulator replacements right away.. unless they have flat out refused to replace the deck I don't see the need to totally write them off just yet..

 

[noejuice]

OK, I manned up and got in there and butchered up the deck with some metal files. I had a triangle, a quarter round with a sharp edge, and a flat rectangle which I didn't use. The files were new and oversized for this type of work. Early results are good. 26g kanthal 6 wrap .6ohms around a smallish q-tip similar diameter to stock. 15w on the IPV mini 70 and I've got dense clouds with bubbles in the tank. The bubbles are the key, demonstrating the airflow/juiceflow.

Here's an extra and I cannot honestly recommend this. I also carved the deck ring just a bit over both juice holes and this is very iffy surgery because you've got to line it up exactly right, and you could lose your whole rig if this leads to leaking/flooding. Tore apart whole thing down to the peek and more. Holy moly welcome to vaping !! My bitch is solved but I'm pretty nervous about the whole thing. I hope too many people don't have to get caught up in this. I carved deep into the deck but left the bottom rim unscathed. *whew*

 

[AmandaD]

OK, I manned up and got in there and butchered up the deck with some metal files. I had a triangle, a quarter round with a sharp edge, and a flat rectangle which I didn't use. The files were new and oversized for this type of work. Early results are good. 26g kanthal 6 wrap .6ohms around a smallish q-tip similar diameter to stock. 11w on the IPV mini 70 and I've got dense clouds with bubbles in the tank. The bubbles are key, demonstrating the airflow/juiceflow.

Here's an extra and I cannot honestly recommend this. I also carved the barrel just a bit over both juice holes and this is very iffy surgery because you've got to line it up exactly right, and you could lose your whole rig if this leads to leaking. Tore apart whole thing down to the peek and more. Holy moly welcome to vaping !! My bitch is solved but I'm pretty nervous about the whole thing. I hope too many people don't have to get caught up in this. I carved deep into the deck but left the bottom rim unscathed. *whew*

I've filed out all three of mine, but I still can't vape at 30 watts (not that I necessarily want to, but it would show me I've got it right)! Do you mean you carved out notches in the barrel that attaches to the little cap (where it lines up with the juice holes)? Could you post pics?

 

[noejuice]

In this stock photo we see the juice intake hole and it is like a half of a black circle under the last i in RBA Mini. I filed the deck ring in the area above the black half circle and created a whole black circle. The newly completed full hole leads to the filed out channels which I filed out and at least tripled their capacity. The whole thing was a lucky kluge.

PS I actually filed a bit to the short side and had to twist hard and lined them up perfectly due to pure luck. The chances for totally destroying the deck and deck ring is probably at least 50/50.

 

[AmandaD]

Ah, I get it - thanks! Hmmm, I'll wait until people get spare RBAs back in stock before trying this!

 

[muth]

Out of three Sub Minis. Two of the RBA decks have the channels reamed all the way down, opening up to the bottom (last pic). These work a lot better than the first one I received where the channels stop short (1st & 2nd pic).

I want to know if filing out the deck cap (or barrel) at the point where it meets the channels is an acceptable fix. Or would it be better to continue reaming out the channels all the way down to the bottom like in the last pic? (click on pic to enlarge)

 

[Drone]

I can't see where reaming the channels all the way to the bottom would make any difference at all since the only place juice enters the build deck is right where the barrel hole and channel of the base meet. Opening either the channel right at where the barrel seats, or opening up the barrel notch a bit would make a big difference if you need more juice flow. Extending the juice channel further down would be a waste of time IMO. Just make the hole bigger for the juice to enter the deck area.

 

[muth]

I can't see where reaming the channels all the way to the bottom would make any difference at all since the only place juice enters the build deck is right where the barrel hole and channel of the base meet. Opening either the channel right at where the barrel seats, or opening up the barrel notch a bit would make a big difference if you need more juice flow. Extending the juice channel further down would be a waste of time IMO. Just make the hole bigger for the juice to enter the deck area.

Well, as you can see in the above pics, Kanger's second batch did just that and all I'm trying to do is replicate that on my first batch deck. The flow is better on the decks that have the channels through to bottom. None of my barrels have notches in them. Your's do? Maybe Kanger will settle on a design one of these days!

 

[CDZVaper]

Well, as you can see in the above pics, Kanger's second batch did just that and all I'm trying to do is replicate that on my first batch deck. The flow is better on the decks that have the channels through to bottom. None of my barrels have notches in them. Your's do? Maybe Kanger will settle on a design one of these days!

My barrel does not have holes either. I bought it maybe a month and a half ago.

 

[muth]

OK, I manned up and got in there and butchered up the deck with some metal files. I had a triangle, a quarter round with a sharp edge, and a flat rectangle which I didn't use. The files were new and oversized for this type of work. Early results are good. 26g kanthal 6 wrap .6ohms around a smallish q-tip similar diameter to stock. 15w on the IPV mini 70 and I've got dense clouds with bubbles in the tank. The bubbles are the key, demonstrating the airflow/juiceflow.

Here's an extra and I cannot honestly recommend this. I also carved the deck ring just a bit over both juice holes and this is very iffy surgery because you've got to line it up exactly right, and you could lose your whole rig if this leads to leaking/flooding. Tore apart whole thing down to the peek and more. Holy moly welcome to vaping !! My bitch is solved but I'm pretty nervous about the whole thing. I hope too many people don't have to get caught up in this. I carved deep into the deck but left the bottom rim unscathed. *whew*

Are you saying that your deck came with no juice channels at all?!! Not sure if I'm understanding your situation correctly. I received two different designs: One has the channels reamed all the way through to the bottom of the deck. The other came with the channels stopping short of the bottom of the deck. Neither one of them had notches in the barrel.

 

[smacksy]

I don't buy any Kanger products at all anymore... Lots of better options out there these days

sent from my Droid Maxx via Tapatalk

 

[Zamazam]

Out of three Sub Minis. Two of the RBA decks have the channels reamed all the way down, opening up to the bottom (last pic). These work a lot better than the first one I received where the channels stop short (1st & 2nd pic).

I want to know if filing out the deck cap (or barrel) at the point where it meets the channels is an acceptable fix. Or would it be better to continue reaming out the channels all the way down to the bottom like in the last pic? (click on pic to enlarge)
View attachment 17353 View attachment 17354 View attachment 17355

Ream the channels, not the cap.

 

[noejuice]

Photo shows what my original deck looked like. The vertical channel in the deck had the girth, of let's say, the wire in the coil. Similar to a hairline crack, visually. The barrel was normal. I notched the barrel and carved out the hairline crack by hand all with a metal file. But until I did these things my brand new subtank mini had a 100% dry hitting non functioning RBA. Kanger knows this and that's why they're now offering this for sale:
http://www.myvaporstore.com/Kangertech-Subtank-Mini-RBA-Deck-p/krst-erba.htm I feel cheated by the company and will never give Kanger another dollar. There's no sub ohm tank war. There's just a war on consumers pocketbooks to get us hooked on their premade coils. I'm switching to RDAs. Turns out that winding a small wire around a small stick a couple of times and sliding a piece of japanese cotton in there isn't all that intimidating.

 

[muth]

Ream the channels, not the cap.

Thanks, Zam. Quick and easy answerI've got a couple of rotary tools. Would an appropriate sized grinder do the trick? Or I've got mini hand files, too.

 

[Zamazam]

If you have either a ball end or end mill bit, that would work. You can use the files, but that will take some time....

 

[muth]

View attachment 17405 Photo shows what my original deck looked like. The vertical channel in the deck had the girth, of let's say, the wire in the coil. Similar to a hairline crack, visually. The barrel was normal. I notched the barrel and carved out the hairline crack by hand all with a metal file. But until I did these things my brand new subtank mini had a 100% dry hitting non functioning RBA. Kanger knows this and that's why they're now offering this for sale:
http://www.myvaporstore.com/Kangertech-Subtank-Mini-RBA-Deck-p/krst-erba.htm I feel cheated by the company and will never give Kanger another dollar. There's no sub ohm tank war. There's just a war on consumers pocketbooks to get us hooked on their premade coils. I'm switching to RDAs. Turns out that winding a small wire around a small stick a couple of times and sliding a piece of japanese cotton in there isn't all that intimidating.

Thanks for the link. That's what the channels look like in my 2nd batch decks. For $8.75 it's worth just buying a new one. My first one doesn't look as bad as your's. Yes, it stops before the bottom, but it's not hairline thin like yours. What a botch job! Sorry that happened because when they're made right it's a decent and tasty vape. Nothing beats an RDA imo, though. But every device has it's place in the vape world

 

[muth]

If you have either a ball end or end mill bit, that would work. You can use the files, but that will take some time....

Thanks again, your the best

 

[AmandaD]

I widened the channels on all three of my STMs - they all work beautifully now. On the first one I used a diamond coated bead reamer by hand, but the last one I got tired of that and stuck it in the dremel - much faster LOL