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Safe to fire .05 ohms on a mech?

BananaSammiches

Member For 4 Years
Just like the title says, does anyone know if it's safe to fire a .05 ohm build on a mech mod? I've looked all over the place for answers to this but no one seems to have a clear answer. I have a Flagship V1 mech mod and an IMREN IMR 18650 3000 mAh 40A battery.
 

robot zombie

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No, absolutely not. 42 amps is way more than any single 18650 can handle. What you have is not a 40 amp battery. It's a re-wrap of another battery with false specs. The highest-drain 18650's out there are 30 amp batteries. I'm not sure what the battery under that particular wrap is, but the most common re-wraps are 20 amp cells.

The only way you could do this on a mech is with a dual parallel box, which, if loaded with 30 amp batteries, would give you a combined max CDR of around 60 amps.
 

BananaSammiches

Member For 4 Years
Oh, okay. Well, damn. Good thing I didn't try it then. Also, the AWT batteries claim to have a 40A rating. I've got an AWT 3000 mAh as well and it's rated at 35A. Which batteries are actually discharging what they claim to be?
 

robot zombie

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Oh, okay. Well, damn. Good thing I didn't try it then. Also, the AWT batteries claim to have a 40A rating. I've got an AWT 3000 mAh as well and it's rated at 35A. Which batteries are actually discharging what they claim to be?
Stick with Samsung, Sony, and LG. The vast majority of re-wraps out there are actually made by one of those companies. Companies like Efest, AWT, and MXJO do not manufacture their own batteries.

I'd reccomend buying from either Illumn.com or liionwholesale.com. They're both reputable vendors with great prices.

Your best bet for really low sub-ohming on mechs are gonna be Sony VTC4's or LG HB6's. They are two of the best 30 amp cells you can buy.

For something with better capacity and a 20 amp limit, try the Samsung 25r's or sony VTC5's.
 

BananaSammiches

Member For 4 Years
What kind of wire are you using to get .05 ohms?
A fused clapton made with 21g wrapped in 36g. 5 wraps at 2.5mm diameter is about .12 -.13 ohms, which when ran in dual coil mode should be .06 -.065. So, not quite .05, but close. I just wanna know how low these things can go. The build I've got in my Sapor RDA is a fused clapton with 24g wrapped in 36g at .12 ohms and it's completely fine.
 
Just like the title says, does anyone know if it's safe to fire a .05 ohm build on a mech mod? I've looked all over the place for answers to this but no one seems to have a clear answer. I have a Flagship V1 mech mod and an IMREN IMR 18650 3000 mAh 40A battery.
Yes it is as long as the battery is charged. Just avoid draining the battery too far. I am a physicist and I am amazed at the crap people talk about batteries. It is actually very difficult to destroy a battery unless it is shorted. Have 2 batteries and don't let them run too low.
 
No, absolutely not. 42 amps is way more than any single 18650 can handle. What you have is not a 40 amp battery. It's a re-wrap of another battery with false specs. The highest-drain 18650's out there are 30 amp batteries. I'm not sure what the battery under that particular wrap is, but the most common re-wraps are 20 amp cells.

The only way you could do this on a mech is with a dual parallel box, which, if loaded with 30 amp batteries, would give you a combined max CDR of around 60 amps.
A short blast would be fine but hot
 

yasaboss

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah as it is not recommended being so close to dead shorting the battery, seen big Lou video (YouTube reveiwer) building a .05 build telling the haters in the comments to fuck off basically because that how he choses to build so low on his mechs tubes it was funny. But it was reg wraps not like the fused coils
 

Robert B

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You could accomplish the same thing with a series mechanical mod. Build a .4ohm dual coil, which will push 21amps at 176watts. Within the safety range of batts like the samsung 25r. I built one like that a couple days ago, but it's stupid hot, wrecks the flavor, and serves no purpose other than to say you've done it.
 

MrScaryZ

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Just like the title says, does anyone know if it's safe to fire a .05 ohm build on a mech mod? I've looked all over the place for answers to this but no one seems to have a clear answer. I have a Flagship V1 mech mod and an IMREN IMR 18650 3000 mAh 40A battery.
The answer is much worst that 40amps its actually 84 amps at 4.2v
Even a dual 18650 x 2 box is not good enough that is the reason you will see quad parallel boxes..
I myself after doing just bout every build in da world its best to stay around .15 ohms at lowest if you have to .. :)
Here is the form on Steam-Engine so you can plug in the numbers for Ohms Law
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
 

Robert B

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The answer is much worst that 40amps its actually 84 amps at 4.2v
Even a dual 18650 x 2 box is not good enough that is the reason you will see quad parallel boxes..
I myself after doing just bout every build in da world its best to stay around .15 ohms at lowest if you have to .. :)
Here is the form on Steam-Engine so you can plug in the numbers for Ohms Law
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
good call, didn't even look at that. he would take one hit off that and burn the lining right out of his trachea
 

BigNasty

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
OK lets put it this way.
below .1 is a dead short.
so fuck no .05 is not safe, that is tard ohm land... sucking Darwin's dick... a fucky time soon to happen, not a if but a when you will get a face full of battery acid if lucky... a pipe bomb in your mug if not.
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
To be safe keep your ohms at no lower than 0.1ohms any lower is a possible dead short and extremely unsafe.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
And then people wonder why you still hear of people blowing off their hand with a mod.
Go figure:D
 

snake94115

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
And then people wonder why you still hear of people blowing off their hand with a mod.
Go figure

What I wonder about is the specifics like what kind of mod and battery.
The stories I've seen mostly is ciga-like types doing the damage usually associated with a grenade.Sorry I just buy it.Especially considering I know Matt "Fazed" Olmstead busted that myth way back in June of 2012**.

*** Some people might not get the reference so I'll link the video ***
 

BoomStick

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
4 volts and

1.04 ohms = 3.84 amps / 15.38 watts
1.05 ohms = 3.80 amps / 15.23 watts

0.04 ohms = 100 amps / 400 watts
0.05 ohms = 80 amps / 320 watts

As resistance decreases, current and power exponentially increase. 5/100th's of an ohm gives you no margin for error and when dealing with unregulated mods resistances that low should be considered a short.
 

gbalkam

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Reddit Exile
First, I am guessing that since you had to ask, you probably don't know enough to attempt a build that low, so don't do it until you fully understand super sub ohm builds. So no, it isn't "safe". Now, safety is relevant. A battery doesn't know if you are pulling 25A or 60A or 80A. All it knows is resistance. So we by top end, brand name, high discharge batteries. Sony, Samsung, LG. Basically, on a mech, the battery will run current through whatever wire you stick on it. The trick is, knowing how long you can pulse the battery. The lower the ohms, the shorter the pulse. The 3 battery brands I listed know this and did not even list a "pulse" rate. What they listed is a sustained amperage discharge rate. So you could chain vape all day on a 25A battery as long as your coil was not pulling more than 25A. 0.15 ohm is a good, solid, safe sub ohm build. 0.1 ohm is getting down into the "Gotta know how long you can fire this thing" range. Roughly, 3 to 5 seconds. Always pick the lower.

Lets use a hard short as an example to start with.. 0 resistance, the battery literally runs rampant discharging and heats up very very quickly. This is when you unscrew your mod and get the battery out, and toss it in the bin. It MIGHT still be good, but don't trust in "might". In this case your pulse is crazy high for 0 seconds. It just keeps pumping current across the short.

Ignore any math and ohms law in these examples. They are NOT to tell you how to build and fire a coil, they are only to illustrate amps and pulse time.

Next a 0.1 ohm coil.. say 6 second "pulse". Pulse being the amount of time you can hold the fire button safely. (there is a chart for this someplace, wish I had book marked it)

Next a 0.08 ohm coil. Ignoring math for the example, you might be ok to fire for 4 seconds
next say 0.05 lets say 2.5 seconds.
so we can figure a 0.01 ohm coil will safely pulse for 1/2 second. You better be able to suck in air pretty damn fast to vape on that.

Again, ignore the math. The example was only to demonstrate that the lower your ohm, the faster your battery heats, and safe pulse times (depending on how good your battery is) Which is why.. i say buy only Sony, Samsung, LG.. WE (other vapers) know they are good. Don't use rebranded batteries. Sony sells sony batteries, LG sells LG batteries. They also sell their 2nds to be rebranded as ever-ready (for example) for flashlights or Black and Decker for power drills in the battery pack. (another topic, but those batteries are made specifically to run in series of 4, 6, 20, etc and not intended for single cell use)

Now, all THAT being said.. I am currently running a quad coil, 26ga parallel coil, 10 wraps, coming in at 0.12 ohms. The thing is.. I have to take the battery out after every 2nd pull and check the temp. If it is hot in my hand, I let it rest until it cools. Now, 2 pulls on a mod isnt a lot of vaping. It is a cloud chucking build, so I only need to do 1 pull. (a 2 second pulse, and 1 pull)

Now there is a reason I went into all this information. It is so YOU can go find the battery specs and look for these values. Gotta know what to look for, right? Now, also, unless you are going for clouds on a competitive level, don't even bother with builds below 0.1 ohm. A good 0.2 to 0.15 ohm build will give you any vape you want, really, and it is up to your skill as a coil builder to make the most of that. For example.. Kanthal is a good starter. Nichrome has less resistance per foot than kanthal, so more wraps per ohm, so more surface area so more cloud. Stainless steel is lower resistance than Nichrome, so again, more wraps per ohm. So here is where the skill comes in.. you want your battery to be able to heat the coil. a 1 ohm SS quad core will have an insanely long ramp up, about 2 puffs before you even get any fog. Kanthal heats up much faster, but with a lot less wraps, SO NiChrome would be your best bet in the 0.15 to 0.1 ohm range IF you wanted clouds. Now IF you want flavor, Stainless Steel gives much better flavor than Kanthal or Nichrome. It also glows at a higher temp so even though they may not glow like kanthal, they are just as hot. So for flavor, shoot for a higher ohm build, with a higher gauge ss wire. 26/28 ga SS is good for flavor builds. 28 will heat better. (less ramp up) So.. a really good flavor build would be a 26ga nichrome core, wrapped with 30 or 32ga stainless steel.

See what I am getting at? Custom build your coil to get the RESULT you want. It has nothing to do with how low you can get your resistance to go.

By the way, just an FYI, even a competitive cloud chaser will scrap a coil if it goes below 0.07ohm. I scrap them below 0.09 and usually aim for 0.12 which is still pretty low, but I know my batteries, pulse times, etc etc so I know i can hit that for up to 6 seconds. Sticking to 0.15 or higher avoids the issue (almost) since your can hit it for 8 to 10 seconds, which is a very long pull. (my avg pull is 2.5 seconds, including exhale to pre-heat the coil)


As well.. Boomstick is spot on. It is all about margin for error. Now you might not blow your face off with a top end battery, but ruining a $250 mod hurts almost as much. (V3 flip, gold.. $250.00 usd) *or was the last time i looked up the price.

Google "Mooch's Blog" for more battery information. He goes into great detail on amps and discharge rates, etc etc etc.. He IS a professional battery EXPERT.. as in he gets PAID for doing what he is doing for vapers for free.

Now yes, this post may be confusing. It is supposed to be. Like I said, I want YOU to PERSONALLY find this information and learn it by heart, or at least book mark it as a cheat sheet.

Now my recommendation, is stay above between 0.15 and 0.30 and go no lower than 0.10, That is my vape range, and should be fine for any 5 second pull. Maybe even 7, but who vapes a 7 second pull on a mech? That is for toodle puffers on a cigalike. :)

Vape within your personal boundaries. Stay within those personal boundaries, and vape safe. AND again.. do not penny pinch on your batteries.

Another point I want to mention, not actually related to ohms...
Is inspect your batteries when you take them out of the mod to charge them, and again just before you put them into your mod to use, and test the volts. Recharge when your batteries get down around 3.4V (3.2 is the very lowest, but 3.4 allows you a bit of safety leeway)
 

BreSha6869

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
First, I am guessing that since you had to ask, you probably don't know enough to attempt a build that low, so don't do it until you fully understand super sub ohm builds. So no, it isn't "safe". Now, safety is relevant. A battery doesn't know if you are pulling 25A or 60A or 80A. All it knows is resistance. So we by top end, brand name, high discharge batteries. Sony, Samsung, LG. Basically, on a mech, the battery will run current through whatever wire you stick on it. The trick is, knowing how long you can pulse the battery. The lower the ohms, the shorter the pulse. The 3 battery brands I listed know this and did not even list a "pulse" rate. What they listed is a sustained amperage discharge rate. So you could chain vape all day on a 25A battery as long as your coil was not pulling more than 25A. 0.15 ohm is a good, solid, safe sub ohm build. 0.1 ohm is getting down into the "Gotta know how long you can fire this thing" range. Roughly, 3 to 5 seconds. Always pick the lower.

Lets use a hard short as an example to start with.. 0 resistance, the battery literally runs rampant discharging and heats up very very quickly. This is when you unscrew your mod and get the battery out, and toss it in the bin. It MIGHT still be good, but don't trust in "might". In this case your pulse is crazy high for 0 seconds. It just keeps pumping current across the short.

Ignore any math and ohms law in these examples. They are NOT to tell you how to build and fire a coil, they are only to illustrate amps and pulse time.

Next a 0.1 ohm coil.. say 6 second "pulse". Pulse being the amount of time you can hold the fire button safely. (there is a chart for this someplace, wish I had book marked it)

Next a 0.08 ohm coil. Ignoring math for the example, you might be ok to fire for 4 seconds
next say 0.05 lets say 2.5 seconds.
so we can figure a 0.01 ohm coil will safely pulse for 1/2 second. You better be able to suck in air pretty damn fast to vape on that.

Again, ignore the math. The example was only to demonstrate that the lower your ohm, the faster your battery heats, and safe pulse times (depending on how good your battery is) Which is why.. i say buy only Sony, Samsung, LG.. WE (other vapers) know they are good. Don't use rebranded batteries. Sony sells sony batteries, LG sells LG batteries. They also sell their 2nds to be rebranded as ever-ready (for example) for flashlights or Black and Decker for power drills in the battery pack. (another topic, but those batteries are made specifically to run in series of 4, 6, 20, etc and not intended for single cell use)

Now, all THAT being said.. I am currently running a quad coil, 26ga parallel coil, 10 wraps, coming in at 0.12 ohms. The thing is.. I have to take the battery out after every 2nd pull and check the temp. If it is hot in my hand, I let it rest until it cools. Now, 2 pulls on a mod isnt a lot of vaping. It is a cloud chucking build, so I only need to do 1 pull. (a 2 second pulse, and 1 pull)

Now there is a reason I went into all this information. It is so YOU can go find the battery specs and look for these values. Gotta know what to look for, right? Now, also, unless you are going for clouds on a competitive level, don't even bother with builds below 0.1 ohm. A good 0.2 to 0.15 ohm build will give you any vape you want, really, and it is up to your skill as a coil builder to make the most of that. For example.. Kanthal is a good starter. Nichrome has less resistance per foot than kanthal, so more wraps per ohm, so more surface area so more cloud. Stainless steel is lower resistance than Nichrome, so again, more wraps per ohm. So here is where the skill comes in.. you want your battery to be able to heat the coil. a 1 ohm SS quad core will have an insanely long ramp up, about 2 puffs before you even get any fog. Kanthal heats up much faster, but with a lot less wraps, SO NiChrome would be your best bet in the 0.15 to 0.1 ohm range IF you wanted clouds. Now IF you want flavor, Stainless Steel gives much better flavor than Kanthal or Nichrome. It also glows at a higher temp so even though they may not glow like kanthal, they are just as hot. So for flavor, shoot for a higher ohm build, with a higher gauge ss wire. 26/28 ga SS is good for flavor builds. 28 will heat better. (less ramp up) So.. a really good flavor build would be a 26ga nichrome core, wrapped with 30 or 32ga stainless steel.

See what I am getting at? Custom build your coil to get the RESULT you want. It has nothing to do with how low you can get your resistance to go.

By the way, just an FYI, even a competitive cloud chaser will scrap a coil if it goes below 0.07ohm. I scrap them below 0.09 and usually aim for 0.12 which is still pretty low, but I know my batteries, pulse times, etc etc so I know i can hit that for up to 6 seconds. Sticking to 0.15 or higher avoids the issue (almost) since your can hit it for 8 to 10 seconds, which is a very long pull. (my avg pull is 2.5 seconds, including exhale to pre-heat the coil)


As well.. Boomstick is spot on. It is all about margin for error. Now you might not blow your face off with a top end battery, but ruining a $250 mod hurts almost as much. (V3 flip, gold.. $250.00 usd) *or was the last time i looked up the price.

Google "Mooch's Blog" for more battery information. He goes into great detail on amps and discharge rates, etc etc etc.. He IS a professional battery EXPERT.. as in he gets PAID for doing what he is doing for vapers for free.

Now yes, this post may be confusing. It is supposed to be. Like I said, I want YOU to PERSONALLY find this information and learn it by heart, or at least book mark it as a cheat sheet.

Now my recommendation, is stay above between 0.15 and 0.30 and go no lower than 0.10, That is my vape range, and should be fine for any 5 second pull. Maybe even 7, but who vapes a 7 second pull on a mech? That is for toodle puffers on a cigalike. :)

Vape within your personal boundaries. Stay within those personal boundaries, and vape safe. AND again.. do not penny pinch on your batteries.

Another point I want to mention, not actually related to ohms...
Is inspect your batteries when you take them out of the mod to charge them, and again just before you put them into your mod to use, and test the volts. Recharge when your batteries get down around 3.4V (3.2 is the very lowest, but 3.4 allows you a bit of safety leeway)
Great post.

The lowest I am personally comfortable with on a mech is 0.2ohms (SMPL hybrid mod with a Tsunami or Velocity RDA). And ALWAYS with a true 30A battery (generally a LG HB2).
 

gbalkam

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Reddit Exile
Great post.

The lowest I am personally comfortable with on a mech is 0.2ohms (SMPL hybrid mod with a Tsunami or Velocity RDA). And ALWAYS with a true 30A battery (generally a LG HB2).
Thanks.
I started with a non-hybrid. They are a bit safer than hybrids. Which is what the vape shop guy I buy from recommended.
6 months building coils, 4 months looking at wire theory and hours and hours of battery information. And of course ohms law, which let do "burst" amps and pulse times. If your battery is 20A sustained, it helps to know how long you can fire at 42 amps. Which again, is why i say only use the best batteries and not budget rewraps. Which is also why I tell people to ignore printed "pulse" ratings. They are BS and only there to trick people into buying them, thinking.. oh those are safe because they have 35A printed on the wrapper. And then, I started out between 0.3 and 0.15 ohm until i got comfortable with the mech. Like I said, there is more to it than just seeing how low you can build. Basically, that 42A build is only for cloud chasing. As such, i don't vape on it. I have a 2nd mod for that. Im not competing yet, but maybe I will some day when i get better at it. Oh I can fog up a room, but nothing like those competition guys do.

Here is my latest cloud build.. Again, not for beginners.
 
Last edited:

UncleRJ

Will write reviews for Beer!
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What I wonder about is the specifics like what kind of mod and battery.
The stories I've seen mostly is ciga-like types doing the damage usually associated with a grenade.Sorry I just buy it.Especially considering I know Matt "Fazed" Olmstead busted that myth way back in June of 2012**.

*** Some people might not get the reference so I'll link the video ***

Matt and Abby (Fiver) had a blast doing that Myth Bust!

I remember it well.

PS, I also own a "Fazed" box mod!
 

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