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Recommend a good BIG glass RBA

Emilie

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I'm just starting at looking at DIY for coils to add to my juice DIY, so I'd love to hear what people might suggest for a new builder.

I'm looking for something with a glass tank.

Links to where to purchase would be VERY much appreciated.

So far, the only place I've found to get RBAs with glass is eBay. Is that where most of you go?

I should mention that I read in one of the threads here that some (or most) RBAs leak if they're not placed upright. I also read that there are those that don't. I would prefer one that doesn't, as I have three cats that love to knock things over.
 
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bluraff3

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Genesis style rbas leak when knocked over, but there are alternatives that do not. I use a kayfun lite, which wicks from the bottom inside the tank and I have never had a leaking issue. Unfortunately, stock kayfuns only come with plastic or steel tanks, but there are glass upgrades out there. I've heard that the Fogger V4 is a good glass rba that's similar to the kayfun.
 

State O' Flux

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For a glass tank'd RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer)... there are a few authentic and clone choices. The Fogger V4 previously mentioned... although dual coil, they can be run as a single. Make sure you buy only Foggers made by Yiloong.
Then there's the HID Ruzgar... available as authentic or clone. Basically, a glass tanked Kayfun type atty that you fill from the top.

For your current needs however, Emilie... I'd buy the best KFL+ V2 or R91% you can afford, and fit it with a "standard" length or nano clone glass tank kit. There are also high end glass tank kits... like the SoV conversion.
Be advised however that when you use a glass tank kit... the only thing holding the atomizer together is a tight o-ring fit. I've not found this a problem... but abusive use may cause leakage.
 

Emilie

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Ah, I wasn't aware that when you have a glass tank that it was only held together with an O-ring.

Even so, I could use something like that for at home and a Nautilus for out and about.

Hmmm.

I'm still kinda leaning toward rebuilding BDCs and sticking with that, but others are suggesting RBAs.

Would anyone mind going through the pros and cons of each, at least, the major ones? I don't even know what questions to ask.

Might be time for a trip to my B&M.
 

bluraff3

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Sorry, no experience with the Nautilus, but I rebuilt Kanger products (Evod, T3S and Protank) for a while before getting into actual RTAs. While not the same, I'm sure a Nautilus is closer to a Protank than it is to Kayfun.
Some differences:
- There is a rubber gasket that separates the pos and neg connections in a Kanger coil. This will melt if you build your coil too hot, which is very unpleasant. I use my RBAs around .5 to .7 ohms, but I've melted Kangers using higher ohms than that. I know there are subohm Kanger coils out there now, so they might hold up better. RTAs won't melt on you (or at least they shouldn't)
- Kangers are far more likely to leak on you than a good RTA. Drove me crazy!
- There's less room to work inside a Kanger coil, so it's harder to get a perfect build. It can be done, but it took me a lot more practice.
- RTAs taste way better. I don't have a scientific explanation as to why, but they do. I thought I had mastered rebuilding my Protank, stopped using it for a while after I got my Kayfun, just tried it again the other day and I couldn't even tell what flavor I was vaping. Night and day.
- A good RTA will cost a lot more...
 

Emilie

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Thank you. :)

For those that use SS tanks on their RBAs, is there any way of checking how much juice you have left other than just running out and maybe getting a burnt taste? Can you at least take it apart before going out for a while to see what's left in there? Can you see the level at all, even when opening it?

I'm really sorry for the seemingly stupid questions, but I'm vaping a lot more than I used to, and I don't want to be caught out away from my juice bottles with no juice.

Also, if I'm vaping more with this Nautilus, I can only assume that I'll vape even more with an RBA.
 

bluraff3

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I think you can take the aqua apart without emptying it. Not the kayfun though. Unless you're using the plastic section or get the glass upgrade, you're going at it blind.
 

State O' Flux

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Ah, I wasn't aware that when you have a glass tank that it was only held together with an O-ring.
Specifically... a KF type atomizer with an aftermarket glass tank kit. Other glass tanks, like those I initially mentioned, are threaded together.

As you are new to rebuilding, in that you've not actually done it yet... I'm going to suggest a few things you've probably not looked into. First... for your safety and the safety of those around you - you need to have a fair understanding of Ohms Law and batteries... in particular the parity between resistance and current. This is most critical at lower resistances.
You need to have a fair understanding of Kanthal wire and how length and thickness (gauge) determine net resistance. You'll need at least, a ohm meter/build box and at best - that and a DMM.

If you click on both of my sig lines... the second in particular, there is a vast amount of specific knowledge available to the beginning and intermediate RBA and/or mech user.

You say you want a big tank... there are big tank glassomizers, like the Kanger Aerotank Mega, that use ready made coil head assemblies. Resistances are available down to as low as 0.8Ω... and they are the first manufacturer to make sub-ohm coil heads. Although technically not a rebuildable per se... consider these as an 'easy' option for a large glass tank.

Thank you. :)

For those that use SS tanks on their RBAs, is there any way of checking how much juice you have left other than just running out and maybe getting a burnt taste?
RTAs for the most part use pressure differential (the balance of negative and positive air pressures) to keep juice in the tank and not on your lap... so opening (disassembling) a tank, assuming you can do so without spillage (not really possible with the standard SvoeMesto KF design) would require you to reestablish the tank negative pressure. Of course, this is required any time you refill a tank as well.

On tanks that have a bottom fill screw... you can use a Luer-Lok syringe to "measure" the fluid - in the sense that if nothing is drawn in via a - specific to the atomizer - length of needle, then you're running low.

In reality, with cotton, ramie, hemp and rayon... you will notice a loss of vapor and a small overall reduction in flavor before you get a real live burning fiber hit.
A way to avoid the possibility of a burnt draw is to use silica (preferably high quality German braided silica) or XC-116 ceramic rope as a wicking medium... as neither can be "burnt" with conventional means.

That's it for me... take it for what it is, do with it what you will.
 

UncleRJ

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Just a quick note.

Yes, the o-rings are what holds it together. But they get a bit of a assist from the vacuum that build up.

My KFL+ with the quartz tank and attached to an 18650 mod can be picked up by the drip tip and it holds together.

But still I do not recommend the practice. Just had to try it once to see if it would work and it did.
 

Smoky Blue

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the big budda has o rings, yes.. but! the top screws down on it :D
 

Emilie

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Specifically... a KF type atomizer with an aftermarket glass tank kit. Other glass tanks, like those I initially mentioned, are threaded together.

As you are new to rebuilding, in that you've not actually done it yet... I'm going to suggest a few things you've probably not looked into. First... for your safety and the safety of those around you - you need to have a fair understanding of Ohms Law and batteries... in particular the parity between resistance and current. This is most critical at lower resistances.
You need to have a fair understanding of Kanthal wire and how length and thickness (gauge) determine net resistance. You'll need at least, a ohm meter/build box and at best - that and a DMM.

If you click on both of my sig lines... the second in particular, there is a vast amount of specific knowledge available to the beginning and intermediate RBA and/or mech user.

You say you want a big tank... there are big tank glassomizers, like the Kanger Aerotank Mega, that use ready made coil head assemblies. Resistances are available down to as low as 0.8Ω... and they are the first manufacturer to make sub-ohm coil heads. Although technically not a rebuildable per se... consider these as an 'easy' option for a large glass tank.


RTAs for the most part use pressure differential (the balance of negative and positive air pressures) to keep juice in the tank and not on your lap... so opening (disassembling) a tank, assuming you can do so without spillage (not really possible with the standard SvoeMesto KF design) would require you to reestablish the tank negative pressure. Of course, this is required any time you refill a tank as well.

On tanks that have a bottom fill screw... you can use a Luer-Lok syringe to "measure" the fluid - in the sense that if nothing is drawn in via a - specific to the atomizer - length of needle, then you're running low.

In reality, with cotton, ramie, hemp and rayon... you will notice a loss of vapor and a small overall reduction in flavor before you get a real live burning fiber hit.
A way to avoid the possibility of a burnt draw is to use silica (preferably high quality German braided silica) or XC-116 ceramic rope as a wicking medium... as neither can be "burnt" with conventional means.

That's it for me... take it for what it is, do with it what you will.

I didn't even think to look at your signature. I apologize. I probably wouldn't have needed to ask some of the questions I have. I'll definitely check them out!

I think I'll START with rebuilding Nautilus coils using the exact materials and directions in the video posted in the tutorials forum, and maybe move to more advanced RBAs/RTAs later on. Batteries was another subject I was going to ask a ton of questions on. I'll also get to know Ohm's Law intimately, and what it's real-world applications are.

I appreciate the help people have given me so far. :)
 

Emilie

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the big budda has o rings, yes.. but! the top screws down on it :D

I was looking at the Big Buddha. I may like to get one of those, eventually.

How ridiculous do they look on 18xxx devices?
 

Smoky Blue

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here it is on my hades, with my custom drip tip @fsors did for me :)

2014-08-13 17.00.16.jpg click to expand thumbnail..

and here it is on my nemi..

IMG_20140813_170130.jpg

I like it better on my hades.. dunno.. maybe a lil ocd?? naw..

I have a special dripper for my nemi, and I use it more than my hades.. it's my travel vaper..
the hades set up is in dripper mode, and it's the house mech :D
 

Garemlin

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For a glass tank'd RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer)... there are a few authentic and clone choices. The Fogger V4 previously mentioned... although dual coil, they can be run as a single. Make sure you buy only Foggers made by Yiloong.
Then there's the HID Ruzgar... available as authentic or clone. Basically, a glass tanked Kayfun type atty that you fill from the top.
.


Ooooo I didn't know there was a clone of the Ruzgar. I saw an authentic in person. It is a super nice piece.
 

Mommay

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I really like my Promotey 2 tanks. The 1st I got was a stainless clone, the next 2 were titanium. You can't see the juice volume, but the vapor production decreases when you need to add juice, but no dry hits- super easy to build, no leaks (no matter how it's turned) and no worry about breakage.
 

The Ocelot

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Ooooo I didn't know there was a clone of the Ruzgar. I saw an authentic in person. It is a super nice piece.

I love my Rüzgar, it's easy to build, easy to fill (upside down, skip the fill hole) and is a flavor monster. Mine is an authentic. One of my friends got the clone, and then had a chance to try an authentic one. While he said the clone was okay, there was enough of a difference that an authentic is now on his shopping list.
 

Garemlin

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I love my Rüzgar, it's easy to build, easy to fill (upside down, skip the fill hole) and is a flavor monster. Mine is an authentic. One of my friends got the clone, and then had a chance to try an authentic one. While he said the clone was okay, there was enough of a difference that an authentic is now on his shopping list.

What were the big difference between the clone and authentic?

Tap'd from my LG G2
 

The Ocelot

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What were the big difference between the clone and authentic?

Tap'd from my LG G2

He had complaints about it leaking, but then when he saw the authentic he discovered it was a burr in the metal that was causing it not to screw down correctly. I wasn't sure it would be cloned very well, since the pieces have to fit together so precisely that a hair off would make it leak like a fountain, but that wasn't the case with my friend.
 

realsis

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I have the Ruzgar clone and it's a little flavor monster! Never had I had ANY trouble with leaking! I fill using the fill screw on top and a syringe. Easy as pie. The tank is glass with a metal outward case that slips over it. Build is super easy as is wicking (think kayfun). I did a expirement and built the ruzgar clone and the kayfun at the exact same ohms, and used the same wattage , same juice to see which tasted better and the ruzgar won. I wanted a second opinion so I had my husband taste both, he voted for the ruzgar also. Finally found something that beat the kayfun flavor wise. Not sure why , they ate so similar , but ruzgar clone was the winner. The tank could be a bit bigger but it's true ly a amazing vape!! And the clone is very much worth buying!! Never had a bit of trouble with mine!! I really love the drip tip that comes standard with it! It's a nice looking atty that I would recommend to anyone!! My clone is perfection, no problems, smooth and beautiful. Most importantly, the flavor is really incrediable!! Super easy to fill with top screw. I vape with the top cap in. If you want a cooler vape, you can remove the top cap plug. But I use mine. Gives a good throat hit as well. All I can say is if you want a flavor monster, get the Ruzgar clone. Everyone should have one in their collection! ! I'm very happy with mine! !
 

Joeyvapes

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here is mine.. I love this thing silly!!

and I normally only drip..

http://www.kidneypuncher.com/ehpro-big-buddha-kayfun-style-rba/

and here is the vid for it..


yes, it fits on the 26650 mechs.. but it is really simple.. haven't had issues with leaks.. and have managed to turn it into a dripper too..
works both ways.. best little beast I have right now.
Hi, is there a special wicking technique you use on the Big Buddha. I love this tank but it leaks a little too much for my liking. Thanks.
 

Smoky Blue

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Hi, is there a special wicking technique you use on the Big Buddha. I love this tank but it leaks a little too much for my liking. Thanks.


i turned mine into a dripper..

did a 7/8 wrap with 26g kanthal..
removed the chimney chamber and i just drip into it..
 

Joeyvapes

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i turned mine into a dripper..

did a 7/8 wrap with 26g kanthal..
removed the chimney chamber and i just drip into it..
Hey, thanks for the reply. I think I finally have it whipped! Re coiled and re wicked it again last night and I believe I have finally solved the problem:)
 

Smoky Blue

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Hey, thanks for the reply. I think I finally have it whipped! Re coiled and re wicked it again last night and I believe I have finally solved the problem:)


that is a good thing :) I know you will like it..
mine, i dont use often.. but thats ok.
 

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